Limped the the 1999 740i home this evening....painful every foot of the way. Extremeley rough idle and considerably less power than normal. Codes are as follows:

P0021 Intake camshaft position timing over advanced bank 2
P0443 Evaporative emissions system purge valve circuit
P1341 Multiple cylander misfire with fuel cutoff
P1351 individual cylander misfire
P1353 individual cylander misfire
P1355 individual cylander misfire
P1357 individual cylander misfire
P1527 'A' camshaft position actuator control circuit signal low bank 2

Excluding the P0443, could these codes indicate anything other than camshaft position sensors? Thanks!!!!

Limped the the 1999 740i home this evening....painful every foot of the way. Extremeley rough idle and considerably less power than normal. Codes are as follows:

P0021 Intake camshaft position timing over advanced bank 2
P0443 Evaporative emissions system purge valve circuit
P1341 Multiple cylander misfire with fuel cutoff
P1351 individual cylander misfire
P1353 individual cylander misfire
P1355 individual cylander misfire
P1357 individual cylander misfire
P1527 'A' camshaft position actuator control circuit signal low bank 2

Excluding the P0443, could these codes indicate anything other than camshaft position sensors? Thanks!!!!

I'd go with the simple stuff first. Go to AutoZone, get a Camshaft Position Sensor (or two, the other will go eventually). These are $70 each. 15 minutes to replace. Clear the codes and try again. CPS can effect a lot of systems, causing other codes to pop-up. Misfires can be caused by leaky valve cover gaskets, fouled-up spark plugs, corroded boot between spark plugs and coils, just to name a few.
Good luck!

Limped the the 1999 740i home this evening....painful every foot of the way. Extremeley rough idle and considerably less power than normal. Codes are as follows:

P0021 Intake camshaft position timing over advanced bank 2
P0443 Evaporative emissions system purge valve circuit
P1341 Multiple cylander misfire with fuel cutoff
P1351 individual cylander misfire
P1353 individual cylander misfire
P1355 individual cylander misfire
P1357 individual cylander misfire
P1527 'A' camshaft position actuator control circuit signal low bank 2

Excluding the P0443, could these codes indicate anything other than camshaft position sensors? Thanks!!!!

Another Arizona brother!!! :)

I'm in Chandler, if you ever need a mechanical helping hand.

Thanks!! I pulled off the driver's side CPS, wiped it down, fiddled with the connector and re-installed it. The amazingly nasty idle has been corrected and I can at least drive to work tomorrow. Unless I can convince myself that the AutoZone parts are of lesser quality, I'll drop two new ones in on Saturday.

plik....I'm in downtown Phoenix....Thanks.

Thanks!! I pulled off the driver's side CPS, wiped it down, fiddled with the connector and re-installed it. The amazingly nasty idle has been corrected and I can at least drive to work tomorrow. Unless I can convince myself that the AutoZone parts are of lesser quality, I'll drop two new ones in on Saturday.

plik....I'm in downtown Phoenix....Thanks.

We (me, wife, and son) were downtown just last week, at the Aloha Festival.

Thanks!! I pulled off the driver's side CPS, wiped it down, fiddled with the connector and re-installed it. The amazingly nasty idle has been corrected and I can at least drive to work tomorrow. Unless I can convince myself that the AutoZone parts are of lesser quality, I'll drop two new ones in on Saturday.

plik....I'm in downtown Phoenix....Thanks.

I have just replaced my faulty CPS's with AutoZone parts. Worked fine. The diameter of the sensor part that goes inside is slightly larger, but the fit is perfect. NOTE: they don't come with the o-rings, at least not when bought from AutoZone. I ended up re-using mine, which were perfectly clean and elastic (not corroded, melted, pinched, or cracked).

Glad to hear the fix worked for you...amazing what one little sensor can do to these cars (or any car, I guess, for that matter).

My cam position sensor on the left bank went bad, but it did not cause the same symptoms as you experienced. I only got the SES (Service Engine Soon) light....car ran perfectly well while it was illuminated.

Great looking car, btw.

jake

Glad to hear the fix worked for you...amazing what one little sensor can do to these cars (or any car, I guess, for that matter).

My cam position sensor on the left bank went bad, but it did not cause the same symptoms as you experienced. I only got the SES (Service Engine Soon) light....car ran perfectly well while it was illuminated.

Great looking car, btw.

jake

Thanks, you too! It's a mazing what a few parts from the Shadowline department, mild window tint and Eibach springs can accomplish...
I got my SES light with code P0022 - "Camshaft Position Actuator A - Bank 2 Timing Over-Retard". I went ahead and replaced them both. All is well for now (about 200 miles later).

Hopped into the car on Friday morning with high hopes of an uneventful trip to work, only to be greeted by the same nasty idle that I thought had left the evening before. Tried to buy the camshaft position sensor at Autozone, only to find it not in stock, and not available at other nearby locations. I contacted Autohaus Arizona and had one Saturday delivered....if the prices on the Pacific BMW website are correct, with the overnight, I could have bought it at a dealership for a little less. I also found that the sensor, part# 12 14 1 438 083, as listen on the e38.0rg site, had been superceded by 12 14 7 539 166, and the new part does have a slightly wider barrel that slips into the engine. Easy install, but, alas, no remedy. I ran the Autoenginuity program again (great product, by the way) and came up with, among others, codes P32a6 VANOS Output Stage Cylinder #5-8 (someday I'll remember how to spell "cylinder"), and P0021 Intake camshaft position timing over advanced bank 2 again. I pulled off the connector from the VANOS solenoid, cleaned it off a smidge, ran the car around the block, and the problem has disappeared. Looks like the problem was the VANOS system after all. Soooo....in an effort to head off any future problems, I'm planning to replace both solenoids and the other camshaft position sensor. Does anyone know if there's a workaround for the $75 BMW special tool (32mm socket) that's used to remove the solenoid? Also, does anyone know the location of the "Evaporative emissions system purge valve circuit" so I can go after that other code? Thanks for all your help!!

i just started this problem in my car, although its a 3.0 z3, annoying. repalced both cps, still no dice.arrr let me know what happens

Two VANOS solenoids are on order from Pacific BMW along with the VANOS socket to install them. Should be here next week. I'll post an update when they are installed.

I Just Replace Both Sensors Both Solenoids. Fixed!!!!!!

Excellent. I hope I have the same results. Thanks!!

Just finished replacing both sensors and both solenoids. Same result....success. Thanks all!!

Just finished replacing both sensors and both solenoids. Same result....success. Thanks all!!

Excellent! Do you have the part numbers (or a link to the appropriate realoem.com page and how easy is the job? I've never done the solenoids..
TIA

Part numbers for 9/98 forward are:
Solenoid = 11 367 524 489
Gasket Flange = 11 14 1 435 023
Special Tool = 11 6 420

The gasket flanges were annoying to remove as there is not a good place to pry them off. Easiest is from below with something like a right angled pick. The coolant needs to be drained to pull off the top radiator hose to access to the driver's side, and the intake bits ahead of the throttle valve need to be moved out of the way to access the passenger's side. I had bought the socket from Pacific BMW ($56) in order to keep the surprise factor to a minimum. All in all, not particularly difficult. I reused the flanges, but I would have been happier if I had ordered two new ones.

Part numbers for 9/98 forward are:
Solenoid = 11 367 524 489
Gasket Flange = 11 14 1 435 023
Special Tool = 11 6 420

The gasket flanges were annoying to remove as there is not a good place to pry them off. Easiest is from below with something like a right angled pick. The coolant needs to be drained to pull off the top radiator hose to access to the driver's side, and the intake bits ahead of the throttle valve need to be moved out of the way to access the passenger's side. I had bought the socket from Pacific BMW ($56) in order to keep the surprise factor to a minimum. All in all, not particularly difficult. I reused the flanges, but I would have been happier if I had ordered two new ones.
Thank you sir! :cool

So I guess there's no substitute for that tool, then? That's too bad. But at least it let you do the job right, like you said, keep the surprise factor to a minimum.

BTW, you need to post some pictures of your car.

Did either of you guys take pix of the procedure, by any chance?

jake

what tool is this that is list??? I didnt use any speacial tools

It's a 32mm socket that's 71mm deep. A regular deep socket would work if it's deep enough.

Sorry, no pix.

eh... i just used cresent wrench

Different application. I have a 740i with the M62 V8. The solenoids are sunk into the VANOS covers and require a socket to remove.

hey what was the part number for that socket? i searched the one you posted and i cant find it anywhere. it looks too short for a part number, maybe it got cut-off? thanks

Looked it up again: 90886116420. I plugged in in to the Pacific BMW website and it reads correctly. The number has been superceeded but will identify the correct socket.

thx bro for the quick response. lol last post dated to april. good looking out.