I mentioned this deal in another thread a few times.

I finally spoke with the seller. He was supposed to e-mail me the VIN number a few days ago but it turns out he is in the midst of a nasty separation from his wife, along with a huge government contrating project, so he didn't get a chance.

NOTE: I haven't had the chance to drive the 40 miles to meet him and see/drive the car, so this is all based on what he says/his online ad:

Anyway, he bought the car from the original owner, a friend of a friend, a month ago, for his son. But his son wants an E36 (he doesn't even have his driver's license yet), so he's selling this one.

Vitals: 1991 M50 525iM (5 spd.), Islandgruen (Iceland green), heated standard-color beige leather seats. About 200,300 miles.

A binder full of service records from new. Over $22,000 apparently in receipts since 1991. Suspension, brakes, clutch (clutch 100k miles ago), water pump, radiator, thermostat, catback (OEM, I think), etc. etc.

Everything works. Cruise control, OBC, heated seats, heat/AC (he claims the AC works, but how could he know, if he bought it one month ago during the wintertime??? Probably relying on the previous owner's word... :confused), seat mechanisms, etc.

Great-condition interior other than the one below-mentioned flaw on the driver's seat. 6 CD changer in rear, radio/cassette. Basketweave wheels???

Says it is extremely smooth and handles incredibly.

Question: I believe it even has basketweave wheels. Was this, along with the heated seats, part of a package, perhaps the cold weather package or something?

Flaws, in no particular order (again, these are what he says; I haven't yet seen the car in person):

- Clearcoat is somewhat faded through in SOME areas, but he says this could be easily buffed up with a nice detail job
- One (or more?) door has tiny amounts of rust only IN the drip holes for water in heavy storms, etc. Not visible, apparently. Common area? No rust other than this.
- Covering that goes over a small "portion" of the door panel on the front passenger side pops off occasionally, he says it needs to be reglued. Not even the whole door panel, just a portion of the covering or something. :dunno
- A couple scratches and dings here and there
- Minor oil leak coming from oil filter housing??? He now doesn't think this is happening, because he changed the oil this morning and after cleaning it up and driving, he saw NO trace of oil. He thinks it was just residue from a previous oil change. And, if it is leaking, he thinks it is just one of those O-rings/gaskets between the filter and the rest of the housing.
- Tiny pencil eraser-sized hole in the driver's seat where the spring apparently came through the leather. But he says it's a very small hole and thinks it could be easily fixed by pulling the spring back through the seat from the bottom--just hasn't had time to do it.


Price? $2,500 firm right now. Maybe if I brought $2,300, he'd accept it, but I don't know.

He made it clear that he is pretty positive I won't be disappointed when I see the car, especially for the price. Great guy, too. Answered all of my questions and very friendly.

Opinions, please. I think it's a good deal, but I am not 100% sure.

No responses or opinions? :(

I think it's a good deal. :dunno

I'd make the drive just because I like to drive, lol.

Just because it's winter doesn't mean he can't turn the AC on to see if it works. Hell, I turn on my AC with the settings on hot to help defog. It goes quicker that way.
As for the clearcoat, I would imagine that if it's something that can be seen, then it's probably shot. It might be okay, but I'd be prepared for it to be flaky. Expect the worst, then you won't be disappointed.
The door panels are 2 piece, kinda. The have an insert, and I think it's pretty common for this to shrink and delam. It's happening on my Touring, but I found new panels for really cheap, rather than taking apart and reglueing. This must have been a really common problem on early 90's BMW's, because the E36s are the same way.
I wonder how shot the seat is if it's got a spring up against the leather. Has the cushioning completely deteriorated? It shouldn't have springs poking through.
As for the price, seems close to reasonable, because of the mileage. I've seen a ton of them with 250k on them, and a few with 300k. If it's been taken care of it should last awhile longer. I'd shoot for closer to $2000 than $2500, though, but that's just based on description, and not the actual vehicle.
How's that for an opinion?

I'd make the drive just because I like to drive, lol.

Thanks... :confused

Any slightly more "helpful" feedback? ;) :D

Just because it's winter doesn't mean he can't turn the AC on to see if it works. Hell, I turn on my AC with the settings on hot to help defog. It goes quicker that way.
As for the clearcoat, I would imagine that if it's something that can be seen, then it's probably shot. It might be okay, but I'd be prepared for it to be flaky. Expect the worst, then you won't be disappointed.
The door panels are 2 piece, kinda. The have an insert, and I think it's pretty common for this to shrink and delam. It's happening on my Touring, but I found new panels for really cheap, rather than taking apart and reglueing. This must have been a really common problem on early 90's BMW's, because the E36s are the same way.
I wonder how shot the seat is if it's got a spring up against the leather. Has the cushioning completely deteriorated? It shouldn't have springs poking through.
As for the price, seems close to reasonable, because of the mileage. I've seen a ton of them with 250k on them, and a few with 300k. If it's been taken care of it should last awhile longer. I'd shoot for closer to $2000 than $2500, though, but that's just based on description, and not the actual vehicle.
How's that for an opinion?

Thanks for the feedback!

Yeah, I think it is that second "kinda-2-piece" thing you are talking about, as well. He couldn't really describe it on the phone, so I suppose it's the same thing. :stickoutt

Regarding the A/C, my point was that if it's 38F and he turns on the A/C, it might just blow air from outside into the cabin? :dunno Not to mention you aren't supposed to run your A/C on cold when it's cold outside, or at least that's what I've been told.

The seat is in great shape, he said, aside from the spring. I too was wondering about that, but it must have been a freak accident or something. He said the spring is not actually poking through the leather, but came up through it and then went back down a bit or something. :dunno

Even with the original service records and all the work that's been done to it, you think it's worth closer to $2,000? I'm just curious. Just because of mileage?

Even with the original service records and all the work that's been done to it, you think it's worth closer to $2,000? I'm just curious. Just because of mileage?

It's really hard to say without seeing and driving it.
I once drove a couple hundred miles over the Cascade mountains here, in the middle of January to check out a 1969 Ford Bronco. I asked a lot of questions, and the guy described it as mint with the exception of a 1" tear in the drivers seat. When I got there the best thing about it was the 1" tear in the drivers seat. Total rustbucket, with literally slabs of bondo cracking and ready to fall off the sides. The steering was completely shot, to the point of turning the steering wheel about 3/4 of a turn before it engaged. The interior had faded red (pinkish) shag carpet from head to toe; floor, ceiling, sides.
I would have never made the drive with an honest description.

Well I might be biased living here in the South, because rust here is rare on cars newer than about 1979. I usually stay away from anything with any rust on it. No matter how good you are at bodywork, unless you cut out a whole section, it will come back.
That being said, I just bought a 95 Touring with 190k on it for $3400. The guy was originally asking $4250. It runs perfect, and just needs some interior work, a correct mirror, and has two spots on the paint, and new frontend bushings, but not a spot of rust. It's a lifelong South FL car.
In the end, a car is worth what someone is willing to pay for it, not what a book says it's worth, etc..
Personally, i would say that $2500 seems a bit high for a car with over 200k on it, especially with rust, even if it's a small amount, but again, that's just me.
As far as not running the AC in cold weather, I've never heard it's bad for the system, and like ElSupremo, I often run it on heat for defogging.
If you like the car, and it's worth it to you, and you're happy with it, then buy it and enjoy it.

Good responses so far, thanks and keep 'em coming!

Definitely not as optimistic as I was hoping for, but the truth hurts. :)

It's a bit surprising, though, 'cause in another thread, I briefly mentioned the deal, and everybody said "go for it." Guess since my description is a lot more detailed and verbose here, the reactions aren't as positive.


Is this a bad daily driver? I drive to school, about 3 miles each way, then 25 miles or so each way to work. How reliable will it be? Keep in mind it comes with the original owner's service records and very recent maintenance done on the important "usual suspects," but you never know. My dad is urging me to get a Japanese car, because they're "more reliable," but with proper preventive maintenance, IMO, a BMW can be just as reliable. :dunno Plus, I just can't see myself owning a Japanese car. I drive one right now and it is booooooooooooring. :(

$3,400 seems like a great deal for that car, btw! Congrats. :)

The problem is you're asking some questions that just can't be answered until you see and drive the car.
We're just pointing out a few thing for you to think about, and even those are guesses, at best.
If it runs and drives top notch, and everything feels tight, $2500 might be a good price. Then there wouldn't be a problem with it being a DD, imo. But right now all you have is a description from someone who may or may not be biased, who is trying to sell you something.

The problem is you're asking some questions that just can't be answered until you see and drive the car.
We're just pointing out a few thing for you to think about, and even those are guesses, at best.
If it runs and drives top notch, and everything feels tight, $2500 might be a good price. Then there wouldn't be a problem with it being a DD, imo. But right now all you have is a description from someone who may or may not be biased, who is trying to sell you something.

Yeah, I totally agree.

Well, I guess it would be more prudent for me to report and ask these questions when I actually see and drive the car, and from my own perspective. :stickoutt

Oh, and pics would definitely be a good idea. I've asked the seller to take some more and send them to me, which he will hopefully do tomorrow.

I am pretty excited, though, to hopefully get back into a Bimmer after a long 2 months after no Bavarian ownership. :( :shifty That's probably why I created this thread, to get confirmation that it was a decent deal. Problem is, you're right, these questions cannot be answered until I post my own observations. The seller's may or may not be extremely biased.

OK, now to transition to a more sensible line of questions:

What should I look for to be wrong in a non-VANOS 1991 M50-based E34?

Please advise, and I will write these down in a checklist and make sure I do my best to look at them all.

Also, does the catalytic converter on these go bad, assuming proper maintenance has been done so it's not being plugged up by unburnt fuel?

The reason I ask is because I don't think the original owner did anything with the cat, and emissions aren't required in the seller's jurisdiction, so I am not 100% positive it would pass emissions here.

It did, however, pass safety inspection.

In the end it's ultimately up to you.
Yes, if any car is maintained properly, it will be very reliable. The differences between say a Honda and a BMW though are that the costs of proper maintenance are much higher in a BMW, and parts are much more expensive.
My GF's car that she is now replacing is a 91 CRX that we bought with 200k miles on it. It's small, and not so quick, but we've had to do very very little maintenance on it, and it get's a reliable 45mpg every day.
Is this Touring going to be the same as the Honda? Of course not, but we're willing to sacrafice the MPG and ease and cost of maintenance to able to have this car. We're going into it expecting it to be more money/possibly more headaches, so we won't constantly compare it to a Honda when something needs to be fixed.

In the end it's ultimately up to you.
Yes, if any car is maintained properly, it will be very reliable. The differences between say a Honda and a BMW though are that the costs of proper maintenance are much higher in a BMW, and parts are much more expensive.
My GF's car that she is now replacing is a 91 CRX that we bought with 200k miles on it. It's small, and not so quick, but we've had to do very very little maintenance on it, and it get's a reliable 45mpg every day.
Is this Touring going to be the same as the Honda? Of course not, but we're willing to sacrafice the MPG and ease and cost of maintenance to able to have this car. We're going into it expecting it to be more money/possibly more headaches, so we won't constantly compare it to a Honda when something needs to be fixed.

Exactly. Putting everything into perspective is why we Bimmer owners (and former/almost ones :() can deal with the occasional headache! :buttrock

Oh, and if you look hard, you can find good deals. Here's a 535 Manual that looks really good and has a lot less miles. I bet you can get this one for $2500, and it's even in the Commie-wealth of VA.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=217556411&dealer_id=59553101&car_year=1989&search_type=both&num_records=25&keywordsfyc=&make=BMW&transmission=Manual&model=535I&distance=0&make2=&address=30269&default_sort=priceASC&advanced=y&certified=&max_mileage=&max_price=&sort_type=priceASC&min_price=&body_code=0&end_year=1996&keywordsrep=&color=&start_year=1981&drive=&engine=&fuel=&doors=&style_flag=1&cardist=524

Oh, and if you look hard, you can find good deals. Here's a 535 Manual that looks really good and has a lot less miles. I bet you can get this one for $2500, and it's even in the Commie-wealth of VA.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=217556411&dealer_id=59553101&car_year=1989&search_type=both&num_records=25&keywordsfyc=&make=BMW&transmission=Manual&model=535I&distance=0&make2=&address=30269&default_sort=priceASC&advanced=y&certified=&max_mileage=&max_price=&sort_type=priceASC&min_price=&body_code=0&end_year=1996&keywordsrep=&color=&start_year=1981&drive=&engine=&fuel=&doors=&style_flag=1&cardist=524

I saw that one. Good price, but I'm not that keen on the color, and I dunno if it's just me, but the driver's side door color seems to mismatch the other body panels, at least in that pic.

Plus, the major problems are that a) I only have exactly $2,500, so if he doesn't take that, I'm pretty much screwed, and b) that's about 3.5 hours away from me, so I'd have to be pretty committed before driving that far to see it.

EDIT: Commie-wealth? :rofl Haven't heard that one before. Clever, but we're more on the other side of the spectrum. ;)

i don't want to rain on your parade, but if you only have $2500 to spend i wouldn't get an e34. i spent over $5k on our 100k miles 95 touring, and i've still spend almost $1k (and done half of it myslef) just fixing little items and the inevitable stuff that the previous owner didn't tell me about.

but I've been in your shoes, and even though you know you should buy a corolla, you're not gonna. good for you.

when you're in the $2k or $2.5k range things gets very subjective, but if the car has a full maintenance history, and of course had the required maintenance it' s probably a decent buy. but you have to go look at it, drive it and figure out what it really needs before you'll really know. and then you just have to hope that nothing pukes right away.

but i'd still budget about $1k per year for maintenance, that seems to be my record on old bimmers.

good luck!

EDIT: Commie-wealth? :rofl Haven't heard that one before. Clever, but we're more on the other side of the spectrum. ;)

My Dad's family is from the mountains in SW VA, near Bristol, and he jokingly calls it that. It seems to be a blend of Socialism and a Police-State in that part of VA.

i don't want to rain on your parade, but if you only have $2500 to spend i wouldn't get an e34. i spent over $5k on our 100k miles 95 touring, and i've still spend almost $1k (and done half of it myslef) just fixing little items and the inevitable stuff that the previous owner didn't tell me about.

but I've been in your shoes, and even though you know you should buy a corolla, you're not gonna. good for you.

when you're in the $2k or $2.5k range things gets very subjective, but if the car has a full maintenance history, and of course had the required maintenance it' s probably a decent buy. but you have to go look at it, drive it and figure out what it really needs before you'll really know. and then you just have to hope that nothing pukes right away.

but i'd still budget about $1k per year for maintenance, that seems to be my record on old bimmers.

good luck!

Well, I will have ~ $3,000 to spend in a couple weeks, $3,600 2 weeks after that, etc. So I'm not worried about being able to afford the maintenance. And while I should maybe wait till I have more to spend, I would rather not.

I still would kinda like a 535 over an M50 525, but meh. I think the M50 might give me less problems--just newer technology.

My Dad's family is from the mountains in SW VA, near Bristol, and he jokingly calls it that. It seems to be a blend of Socialism and a Police-State in that part of VA.

:rofl

It's like that here, man.

What I've gathered is that the M30 is the most reliable engine E34's came with.

In my experience, green is the worst color to have with clearcoat problems, but it's a manual and ostensibly been taken good care of. I'd say it's certainly worth checking out.

Unless you veto it based on color, the 535i mentioned above looks very worthy of investigation, too.

What I've gathered is that the M30 is the most reliable engine E34's came with.

In my experience, green is the worst color to have with clearcoat problems, but it's a manual and ostensibly been taken good care of. I'd say it's certainly worth checking out.

Unless you veto it based on color, the 535i mentioned above looks very worthy of investigation, too.

Yeah. Well, I'll check it out.

And I still haven't gotten a callback from the 535i seller. Maybe he/she sold it already. :dunno

Thanks!