View Full Version : 1990 M3- guibo, R trans seal, Brakes, shifter rebuild.
Picked up a 1990 M3.
Am replacing flex disc (guibo) as I can see a crack and the car has a vibration when coming down from speed in gear. How can I test the center support bearing? Or should I just replace?
Rear trans seal leaks, plan to replace the seal while the drive shaft is out. (any tips for R&R of this seal?) Will check trans mounts.
The shifter is worn out. Plan to rebuild with OEM parts & add a Z3 1.9 Shifter.
Slight oil pan leak, will replace gasket & install a oil pan baffle kit. Is Turner the best place to pick up the baffle kit?
Will be replacing rotors & pads with factory rotors & PF Z rated pads.
Bilstein sports are waiting in a box to be installed. Rear shock mounts replaced. How can I check the upper strut bearings? Am considering Ireland fixed upper 1.25 degrees negative camber plates & stock upper bearings.(Thoughts?) Street, some driving schools/open track events planned.
Looking for any time saving tips & advice prior to jumping in on this.
(Any & all advice will be apreciated!)
Plan to use mainly dealership parts to avoid future issues.
Thanks in advance! (Long post with lots of questions........)
Tried to post pic's but...........
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mmark. 03-10-2007, 10:52 AM Replace the center support bearing.
If the front end Hunts over road camber, change the front wishbones, wishbone(control arm) rear bushings, front swaybar end links.
Use offset front upper strut bearings.
If the strut bearings are bad, they tend to have a heavy clunking at low speed for the bumps bumps.
front swaybar end links tend to have a single clunk when moving off slowly from a stop. (especially in reverse.)
m
Replace the center support bearing.
Will do.
If the front end Hunts over road camber, change the front wishbones, wishbone(control arm) Look new, have been changed out with off set urethane bushings.
Rear bushings, front sway bar end links.
Seems solid here, the car was inspected by the front end/alignment
shop I use and they didn't find anything that needed replacing.
Rear control are bushings have minor cracks, but was told its not a problem.
Use offset front upper strut bearings.
Who's do you recommend? Tuners?
Rather than a fixed plate? Or both? How much negative camber would you recommend for a street driven car that does a few track events per year?
If the strut bearings are bad, they tend to have a heavy clunking at low speed for the bumps bumps.
Will replace
front sway bar end links tend to have a single clunk when moving off slowly from a stop. (especially in reverse.)
These seem OK Am looking for a source for urethane sway bar bushings
for the stock sway bars, Any ideas?
Cant thank you enough, plan to order most of the parts today.
You really helped me out.
IHeartE30s 03-10-2007, 09:40 PM The rear trans seal is easy once you have the output shaft out, if you have a seal puller then its a piece of cake. If not the just use a flat head screw driver and pop it out. To put in just get it started and I used a small block of wood and a hammer and work it in.
Everything else has already been stated. I heard the E34 M5 guibo is a good upgrade with longer bolts? Might be hearsay.
Will replace the upper seal also. Can this be done with the Transmission installed? Thanks.
mmark. 03-11-2007, 09:51 AM Replace the center support bearing.
Will do.
If the front end Hunts over road camber, change the front wishbones, wishbone(control arm) Look new, have been changed out with off set urethane bushings.
Rear bushings, front sway bar end links.
Seems solid here, the car was inspected by the front end/alignment
shop I use and they didn't find anything that needed replacing.
Rear control are bushings have minor cracks, but was told its not a problem.
Use offset front upper strut bearings.
Who's do you recommend? Tuners?
Rather than a fixed plate? Or both? How much negative camber would you recommend for a street driven car that does a few track events per year?
If the strut bearings are bad, they tend to have a heavy clunking at low speed for the bumps bumps.
Will replace
front sway bar end links tend to have a single clunk when moving off slowly from a stop. (especially in reverse.)
These seem OK Am looking for a source for urethane sway bar bushings
for the stock sway bars, Any ideas?
Cant thank you enough, plan to order most of the parts today.
You really helped me out.
bmpdesign.com (use the 19mm for the factory bar) have urethane front swaybar bushings.
If you are running a stock type spring system, use BMW offset strut bearing/bushing.
I use factory offset strut tower bushings and Turner fixed camber plates.
The sellers advertise a camber change of 'X', but you won't know what the exact spec is until you measure the kit installed on your specific car (it's frame spec, lowering springs).
You can get away with up to 2degree neg camber up front with *reasonable* wear depending on the tyre construction, ie, an Ultra performance or max performance street tyre will wear more quickly than a budget high performance tyre. What you have to do is make sure that the front toe is either zero or max of 1/16" out.
Toe out tends to cause more inner treadblock wear than 1.2-2 degree of neg camber and zero toe.
The rears will tend to wear more quickly than the fronts.
The harder you tend to drive, the quicker the rubber will wear , of course.
make sure the urethane rear bushings of the control arms have been modded to prevent them from rotating in the bracket.
Don't worry about the rear until you hit the track.
Rear trailing arm bushings when bad will: 1, make the rear jiggly when in a fast sweeper or increasing radius corner.
And 2, In tight sections of a track, say a chicane, then quickly on the brakes for a sharpish corner, the rear end will feel unsettled and late to stabilise for confident corner entry.
m
"use BMW offset strut bearing/bushing"
Do you have the part numbers? I had no idea they were available from the dealer. Have only seen them at Tuners.
Thanks for all the information!
Trying to avoid E30 M3 newbi mistakes!
mmark. 03-12-2007, 03:57 AM 31331139484. Qty two, of course.
m
GMBBS 03-12-2007, 01:29 PM While the tranny is out, replace the rear carrier bushing (bolts to floor pan), front carrier bushing (urethane is avail from UUC), the shift shaft seal and the foam spacer on the shift shaft knuckle. All new shifter bushings are well worth the minimal expense.
31331139484. Qty two, of course. (Ordered 2 today)
Thanks for all the info everyone! Really helped me out!
Placed 2 large orders with Pelican Parts and Bimmerworld today.
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