Hey guys, I did a little searching and was coming up with squadoosh.

-What is shaving? How does it work? I understand that it is taking part of the contact patch off, but why do you do it and what is optimal?

-I want to run R-Comps this summer at auto-x, should I buy a used set and learn on them before I buy new and destroy them?

-What tire pressures do your run them at when auto-xing.

Thanks again, I know wheels and tires but I feel quite elementary when it comes to R-Comps. Just looking to further my knowledge a little.

BTW, all responses in lehman's terms would be much appreciated :D

-What is shaving? How does it work? I understand that it is taking part of the contact patch off, but why do you do it and what is optimal?

Shaving is just what it says - you shave a layer of rubber off the tread. A lot of R-Comp tires come with enough tread on them for them to be used as rain tires. This is not optimal for dry grip, as the tread "squirms" during cornering. This can overheat the tire resulting in lower grip and reduced tire life. If you reduce the tread depth by shaving, the tire will be faster in dry conditions and can last longer. Keep in mind many R-comp tires are "heat cycled out" before the tread is gone. In other words, the more sessions you run on a tire, the more likely it is to be slower, regardless of tread condition. This is another reason to shave - might as well have the fastest tire you can before it's heat cycled out.

-I want to run R-Comps this summer at auto-x, should I buy a used set and learn on them before I buy new and destroy them?

For autocross, if you can get a good used set, fine, but if you get a heat cycled out set, you're not learning much, as those vs. a new set are completely different animals. Either way, your learning curve is going to steepen when you get a new set.

-What tire pressures do your run them at when auto-xing.

There's no "right" answer. Depends on the tire and the weight of the car, and the conditions. Part of the learning curve is tracking tire temps, pressures, and lap/run times, and adjusting pressures from there.

Depending on what R compounds and how serious you are you don't need to have them shaved. Sorry to be so general but you aren't exactly asking about any one R compound.

Josh is right - a tire that I can think of off the top of my head that you wouldn't typically shave is the Hoosier A6 (Autocross) or R6 (Road Race).

Depending on what R compounds and how serious you are you don't need to have them shaved. Sorry to be so general but you aren't exactly asking about any one R compound.

Sorry for not being more specific. I am looking at either Toyo RA-1's or Kumho Victoracers.

Thanks for the responses so far.

Sorry for not being more specific. I am looking at either Toyo RA-1's or Kumho Victoracers.

Thanks for the responses so far.

You can shave both.

Josh is right - a tire that I can think of off the top of my head that you wouldn't typically shave is the Hoosier A6 (Autocross) or R6 (Road Race).

you don't need to shave the Kumho V710 either.

For auto-x I would recommend Hoosier A6's or Kuhmo V710's, but of which do not need to be shaved.

For your first set of R-Comps, you should get the Victoracers. They last a long time (many heat cycles), have a very predictable break away, and are cheap.

Shaving is just what it says - you shave a layer of rubber off the tread. A lot of R-Comp tires come with enough tread on them for them to be used as rain tires. This is not optimal for dry grip, as the tread "squirms" during cornering. This can overheat the tire resulting in lower grip and reduced tire life. If you reduce the tread depth by shaving, the tire will be faster in dry conditions and can last longer. Keep in mind many R-comp tires are "heat cycled out" before the tread is gone. In other words, the more sessions you run on a tire, the more likely it is to be slower, regardless of tread condition. This is another reason to shave - might as well have the fastest tire you can before it's heat cycled out.Do RA1s heat cycle out? I thought they were some of the longest lasting R comps out there, and you can run them from full depth to the cords. Yes, you'll get squirm and maybe too much heat at full depth, and folks like bw sell scrubs because they want the keenest edge they can get during a race, but for a guy like Karl who is just trying R comps for the first time, is shaving necessary?

Also, Karl should know there are different shaving depths, an "enduro" shave is usually not as deep as a "sprint race" shave, meaning the enduro shaved tire has more tread depth.

Do RA1s heat cycle out? I thought they were some of the longest lasting R comps out there, and you can run them from full depth to the cords. Yes, you'll get squirm and maybe too much heat at full depth, and folks like bw sell scrubs because they want the keenest edge they can get during a race, but for a guy like Karl who is just trying R comps for the first time, is shaving necessary?

Also, Karl should know there are different shaving depths, an "enduro" shave is usually not as deep as a "sprint race" shave, meaning the enduro shaved tire has more tread depth.

Sure. Run enough short sessions on them and you'll find yourself getting your ass handed to you by a guy in an equal car on a new set, long before the tires are worn out tread-wise. Ask any SPEED World Challenge driver.

As far as what Karl should do....no, I didn't recommend he shave his set if he buys new. I think he should just drive on them and learn on them until such time that his skills get to the point where the tenths achieved by shaving start becoming useful. My only recommendation to him was possibly not buying a used set, as he can't control what he's getting, like he can by buying new and starting from there.

I think he should just drive on them and learn on them until such time that his skills get to the point where the tenths achieved by shaving start becoming useful.

Agreed 100%! I think that's a great way to start... They'll still offer substantially more grip than street tires, and because he's probably never driven them before, he probably won't even realize the tread squirm. This way the tires will get faster as he becomes more comfortable with them.

RA-1's are great but expensive. They last long, do not require shaving if you are not racing for the national championship. You can switch them on the rim and use up both sides of the tire. They are directional only when used as a rain tire. They will talk to you and let you know what they are doing. They let you know before they let go. You can run them until they cord. Some say they are the best there. They are known for getting better as they are wearing down.

RA-1's are great but expensive. They last long, do not require shaving if you are not racing for the national championship. You can switch them on the rim and use up both sides of the tire. They are directional only when used as a rain tire. They will talk to you and let you know what they are doing. They let you know before they let go. You can run them until they cord. Some say they are the best there. They are known for getting better as they are wearing down.I agree with most of this post. The tire in not expensive if you know where to buy. $165 for a new 255/40/17 is pretty good in my book. 15 bucks to shave. If you run them hard shaving will increase performance and not reduce mileage. It's a hard one to get the mind around. They will loose some ability after cycling. The number varies depending on how hot you get them and for how long. For HPDE level, cycle as much as you want and run to the cords. They are the perfect tire for that sort of use. The slight drop in performance from cycling is probably better for learning on anyway. As an autox tire, I think there are others that would be better. RA1 is really designed to be a track hobbyist tool.

RA1's are not for autoxing...

RA1's are not for autoxing...


true not enought time to heat up