Just wondering,

Is $1,650 a good deal for a 1985 535i with a new, red paintjob (not OEM, but decent-quality, according to seller)? I don't know if it resembles zinnoberrot or hellrot more, but it looks pretty nice in pics. Apparently no rust.

Appears to have the iS trunk lid spoiler.

Mileage is 227k.

5 spd., of course.

Little to no service history, but the guy seems to know about Bimmers.

Couple pics:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e71/robertgeller/ubq7EynQW4uwQv492cxuRb8yRQSc.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e71/robertgeller/4yewX8LhYmi3vn4cXai7xUiWWUMM.jpg

Opinions?

Update:

Just got an e-mail from the seller.

This is what he says:

"The car drives. I could deliver it. A test drive might be a bit unimpressive. I bought it barely running and got it drivable then stopped. It is an unfinished restoration project. The work needing doing is minor. A proper Tune up is in order. Brakes need pads. Car needs radio. But it is a good sound car And worth whatever you might do to it. All I have done so far is to replace the ignition coil. That did wonders."

I like it.

Dude, you know what? You should be in an E28 right now, until the end of summer. THEN get an E34, based on your budget.

I mean, you can get an E28 535i/5 for PENNIES. Try to get one with little to no rust though.

Not sure on that particular model.

I like it.

Dude, you know what? You should be in an E28 right now, until the end of summer. THEN get an E34, based on your budget.

I mean, you can get an E28 535i/5 for PENNIES. Try to get one with little to no rust though.

Not sure on that particular model.

Yeah.

My dad also informed me tonight that he would match me on a cheap car.

But NOT a German car. Grr. He has this fucking perception that German cars are so unreliable. :rolleyes :mad

Yeah.

My dad also informed me tonight that he would match me on a cheap car.

But NOT a German car. Grr. He has this fucking perception that German cars are so unreliable. :rolleyes :mad

Hmmm...

I think the E28 idea is a really good one...it's reliable (shit breaks but it's an easy DIY).

I think a solid E28 would prove him wrong. Just don't get an E36, whatever you do. Jesus, no.

Maybe a 318ti, but I digress.

Trying to think of a cheap, non-German car I'd own...all I can think of are trucks.

EDIT: Miata. Would do that in a heartbeat. You could have one hell of a Miata if your dad matched you. You'd be a fool not to do one.

I'd also do a Volvo 850T5.

Trying to think of a cheap, non-German car I'd own...all I can think of are trucks.

Exactly. :mad

I'm thinking maybe an Integra GS-R might be kinda cool. Faster than an E30/E36 325iS, E34 525iM and 535i auto, and realy most cars on the road.

I found one for $3,500... hmm. But I really want to stick with BMW, RWD, etc. :(

EDIT: Miata. Would do that in a heartbeat. You could have one hell of a Miata if your dad matched you. You'd be a fool not to do one.

I'd also do a Volvo 850T5.

Miata?! Aren't those kinda chick/queer cars? I mean, call me insecure, but I'm not sure I'd like to be spotted driving around in a stock Miata. Maybe turbod would be a different story. :D

Maybe I'll offer $1,000, since it needs a tune-up and a radio.

For the money it is worth it if you can follow throught with 500 for dist cap and rotor, wires, plugs, VCG, and valve adjustment.

For the money it is worth it if you can follow throught with 500 for dist cap and rotor, wires, plugs, VCG, and valve adjustment.

What is VCG?

Also, did you mean it's worth it at $1,000, or even $1,650?

Sounds like quite a bit to me... but I dont know much about e28's yet.

Talk him down. You can score very decent e28s for 1600 if you dig around enough. It has high miles, what appear to be TRX wheels/tires, a non-OEM paint job, a spoiler that's a different color than the car, no service history, and he won't try to even get it running properly before he sells it to you for that much? Yeah, definitely try to get him below a grand if he won't at least do a basic tune up/brake change for you.

Talk him down. You can score very decent e28s for 1600 if you dig around enough. It has high miles, what appear to be TRX wheels/tires, a non-OEM paint job, a spoiler that's a different color than the car, no service history, and he won't try to even get it running properly before he sells it to you for that much? Yeah, definitely try to get him below a grand if he won't at least do a basic tune up/brake change for you.

Are those TRX wheels/tires? I was wondering about that myself. They look like bottlecaps to me. :dunno

Btw, I've never really understood what a "tune-up" consists of. Sellers seem to throw around the term so liberally and ambiguously that, to me, it has come to mean, well, nothing. What do you consider a tune-up? An opportunistic seller might ostensibly lump such things as a new battery, new cap and rotor, hell, even a new radiator, in the "tune-up" category. :rolleyes

Talk him down. You can score very decent e28s for 1600 if you dig around enough. It has high miles, what appear to be TRX wheels/tires, a non-OEM paint job, a spoiler that's a different color than the car, no service history, and he won't try to even get it running properly before he sells it to you for that much? Yeah, definitely try to get him below a grand if he won't at least do a basic tune up/brake change for you.

Werd.

E28s don't command E30 prices, they just don't. Nowhere near it.

Miata?! Aren't those kinda chick/queer cars? I mean, call me insecure, but I'm not sure I'd like to be spotted driving around in a stock Miata. Maybe turbod would be a different story. :D

Yup, you're insecure.

Are those TRX wheels/tires? I was wondering about that myself. They look like bottlecaps to me. :dunno

Btw, I've never really understood what a "tune-up" consists of. Sellers seem to throw around the term so liberally and ambiguously that, to me, it has come to mean, well, nothing. What do you consider a tune-up? An opportunistic seller might ostensibly lump such things as a new battery, new cap and rotor, hell, even a new radiator, in the "tune-up" category. :rolleyes

Those are TRXs. Worth more in scrap metal.

A tune-up is what theseeker said. Ignition stuff and filters. O2 sensor.

I absolutely agree, way overpriced for what it is.

VCG = valve cover gasket.

The seller said that just replacing the coil helped the running situation of the car a lot. Well I'm sure if he replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and did a valve adjustment on it the car would run even better. Oh and at that mileage I'd replace the injectors or have them gone through by a shop.

Thanks for your advice so far, guys!

The seller informed me today that "today's price" is $1,200.

He's actually a hobbyist car dealer. His full-time job is a massage therapist or something, and he seems like a stand-up guy.

I bet I could get him to take ~ $900 cash. Would this be a good deal?

If it aint rusty and the interior is in good shape, then yeah, grab it at that price. Make sure you save the rest of your cash for things that will go wrong instead of blowing it on other things. And get it off those damn TRXs.

If it aint rusty and the interior is in good shape, then yeah, grab it at that price. Make sure you save the rest of your cash for things that will go wrong instead of blowing it on other things. And get it off those damn TRXs.

Cool.

So are you sure those are TRXs? They look like bottlecaps to me, but maybe that's how TRXs looked. :dunno

What will likely go wrong? Are E28s fairly reliable cars? I will be commuting approximately 50 miles per day.

Also, acceleration. How does the E28 535i perform? 0-60 in what, mid-7s with a 5 spd.?

Cool.

So are you sure those are TRXs? They look like bottlecaps to me, but maybe that's how TRXs looked. :dunno

What will likely go wrong? Are E28s fairly reliable cars? I will be commuting approximately 50 miles per day.

Also, acceleration. How does the E28 535i perform? 0-60 in what, mid-7s with a 5 spd.?

Okay, Jesus Christ.

As has been said before, those are TRX wheels. Have fun finding/paying for tires. Just swap over basketweaves or whatever.

It's a 20 year old car, there's plenty to go wrong. They're solid cars though, and built like tanks. This one is begging for a FULL tuneup.

It's very quick, let's just leave it at that.

Okay, Jesus Christ.

As has been said before, those are TRX wheels. Have fun finding/paying for tires. Just swap over basketweaves or whatever.

It's a 20 year old car, there's plenty to go wrong. They're solid cars though, and built like tanks. This one is begging for a FULL tuneup.

It's very quick, let's just leave it at that.

Do you think it is a good buy at $1,200?

Yes dude, I've got a TRX that looks exactly like that. Makes a good garden hose reel.

Most likely thing to go wrong will be suspension stuff. Mainly bushings. If it's all original, then save some money for lower and upper control arms, idler arms and center link, tie rod ends, rear diff mount, rear subframe bushings, and motor and trans mounts. None of them are terribly expensive if you buy from the right places. Replace them as they wear out.

With the right mods, an e28 can be quick to ridiculously fast.

Yes dude, I've got a TRX that looks exactly like that. Makes a good garden hose reel.

:rofl

Yes, yes it probably does.

Most likely thing to go wrong will be suspension stuff. Mainly bushings. If it's all original, then save some money for lower and upper control arms, idler arms and center link, tie rod ends, rear diff mount, rear subframe bushings, and motor and trans mounts. None of them are terribly expensive if you buy from the right places. Replace them as they wear out.

Alright, I'll probably have to do all that. Isn't all that stuff like ~ $500+?

With the right mods, an e28 can be quick to ridiculously fast.

What "right mods" are we talkin' here? I can't afford anything near a turbo right now, if that's what you were intimating. ;)

How is the 535i stock? With minor bolt-ons?

Also, I'm wondering if this is a decent deal at $1,200, especially with 227k miles... should I try to negotiate down? I hate having such a high mileage, if only because it doesn't sound/look very good when people ask me how many miles I have. :D

For that money, you could do a hell of a lot worse. Like oh, I dunno, an Integra. Seriously man, buy the damn car, fix it up a little, and have a blast with it.

For that money, you could do a hell of a lot worse. Like oh, I dunno, an Integra. Seriously man, buy the damn car, fix it up a little, and have a blast with it.

:rofl

Coincidentally, I was actually considering an Integra GS-R. I hate ricers and Japanese cars, in general, because of their reputation for rice, but the GS-R is really a nice little car stock--and very reliable. But I want a Bimmer, if possible.

I was thinking of last-get Ludes and 99-00 Civic Sis. Glad I went with the Bimmer.

But seriously, just buy the thing and give it a tune-up and used OE 5er wheels. Once you get it running well, you can find what it needs suspension-wise.

Don't mod it yet (well, maybe a few small things) because you don't want to sink too much into it.

I was thinking of last-get Ludes and 99-00 Civic Sis. Glad I went with the Bimmer.

But seriously, just buy the thing and give it a tune-up and used OE 5er wheels. Once you get it running well, you can find what it needs suspension-wise.

Don't mod it yet (well, maybe a few small things) because you don't want to sink too much into it.

Yeah, I'm just concerned that I will find a minty later-MY (i.e. '88) 535iS with integrated fog lights/air dam, sport seats, etc. for the exact same price with a much lower mileage in a few weeks. :(

But I suppose it really doesn't matter. This is the same engine, same everything, just less cosmetic coolness and a higher mileage.

Yeah, I'm just concerned that I will find a minty later-MY (i.e. '88) 535iS with integrated fog lights/air dam, sport seats, etc. for the exact same price with a much lower mileage in a few weeks. :(

But I suppose it really doesn't matter. This is the same engine, same everything, just less cosmetic coolness and a higher mileage.

Nobody's making you buy anything right now. :dunno

Nobody's making you buy anything right now. :dunno

I didn't say they were, I know it's my decision. I'm just apprehensive, since it's an auction car and everything. I don't doubt the seller's integrity. He is an honest guy with a full-time job who just sells classic cars as a hobby. I just want to make sure there isn't anything fundamentally wrong with the car, and the only way to do this I suppose is to take it in to a professional for a PPI. I will obviously also do a Carfax and dealer options list lookup on it.

Uh, I just ran a Carfax. Rather disconcerting.

Apparently, there is a "Not Actual Mileage" title. I'm assuming this is because the odometer failed or something, or maybe because it was purchased at an auction and the proper odometer statements weren't signed or something.

The documented mileage on 7/15/2005 was less (242,000) than that on 7/13/2005 (246,635). 7/15 was when the title was issued. 7/13 was when an emissions inspection was performed and passed. Strangely, the mileage recorded on 7/15, when the car was titled/registered, matches that on 1/18 of the same year.

Probably just some administrative mix-up.

The ad claims it has 227k miles, but the last Carfax entry in 12/29/2006 at a mechanic's shop shows 247k miles. Perhaps it was just a mis-type in the ad. I e-mailed the seller and am awaiting a response.

Uh, I just ran a Carfax. Rather disconcerting.

Apparently, there is a "Not Actual Mileage" title. I'm assuming this is because the odometer failed or something, or maybe because it was purchased at an auction and the proper odometer statements weren't signed or something.

The documented mileage on 7/15/2005 was less (242,000) than that on 7/13/2005 (246,635). 7/15 was when the title was issued. 7/13 was when an emissions inspection was performed and passed. Strangely, the mileage recorded on 7/15, when the car was titled/registered, matches that on 1/18 of the same year.

Probably just some administrative mix-up.

The ad claims it has 227k miles, but the last Carfax entry in 12/29/2006 at a mechanic's shop shows 247k miles. Perhaps it was just a mis-type in the ad. I e-mailed the seller and am awaiting a response.

Hmmm...

Well, as you know, the odometers break all the time, so, yeah.

:dunno

I'd just say it's got a shit-ton of miles and see what the seller thinks.

Hmmm...

Well, as you know, the odometers break all the time, so, yeah.

:dunno

I'd just say it's got a shit-ton of miles and see what the seller thinks.

Probably so.

I'll talk to the seller tomorrow and maybe work out something. :buttrock

Those wheels are NOT TRXs

These are TRXs
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g101/wlemmons/TRX.jpg

Those wheels are NOT TRXs

These are TRXs
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g101/wlemmons/TRX.jpg

You sure the ones here in the U.S. might not look different? Someone on MyE28.com has a page about it. http://www.scrappycrow.com/e28wheelstires/e28wheelstires.html#wheeltirestock

He has a picture of the TRXs, and they look like the ones in the picture I posted.

Dunno, maybe there were two versions, or maybe the ones you posted are Euro? :dunno

He described what TRXs are on that page, but he did not post an accurate picture.

He described what TRXs are on that page, but he did not post an accurate picture.

Hmm, ok. That surprises me, because that's probably the most common wheel/tire tutorial in the E28 community.

You positive there weren't two different versions in the U.S. and Europe? Not trying to argue here, just trying to make sure.

And the seller called me a few minutes ago, we talked for a few minutes, then he got another call and said he'd call me right back. He hasn't called back. :rolleyes Nice guy though.

I was under the impression that the TRX was just a metric size wheel, like a 15.3 inch or something goofy like that. It just required a TRX tire (only made by michellin when TRX came out i think) Too bad the tires havent really changed much in 20 years... hope they arent TRX's man,

-Jeff

I was under the impression that the TRX was just a metric size wheel, like a 15.3 inch or something goofy like that. It just required a TRX tire (only made by michellin when TRX came out i think) Too bad the tires havent really changed much in 20 years... hope they arent TRX's man,

-Jeff

If they are, I'll just put new wheels and tires on. But yeah, it'd be a drag.

Any suggestions for new wheels?

style 5's (kinda like 4500rpm's car in his sig) are always good on an E28. and ive always liked the m-contours on a 5er too, they are a 5 spoke from an E36 m car i believe.

-Jeff

Jeff,

In answer to your question in your other thread about my buying the car, I'm just unsure. For the brief time I spoke with the seller half an hour or so ago and then just now, it sounds like the car is in decent shape, but seems to be running low on power. Basically, he said it's running pretty smoothly but feels like a 4-cylinder rather than a 3.5L 6-cylinder.

He said it's not blowing smoke or giving any indication that it's a blown head gasket, so what could it be? He said it probably needs a tune-up anyway, so I guess when I replaced the common items, hopefully this problem would be cured.

Haven't asked about suspension or anything else yet, other than the interior. Interior is in good shape, he said, with a little split/crack in the driver's seat.

hard to say. if it hasnt had a decent tune,(discussed earlier i believe in the thread), that could be the issue with a higher mile motor. The M30 is sensitive to vaccum leaks, which are easily fixed by getting the rolls of tubing from NAPA for cheap and just replacing all the old lines. Im really not sure what else it could be. Perhaps the owner thinks the car should be faster than it is?

-Jeff

hard to say. if it hasnt had a decent tune,(discussed earlier i believe in the thread), that could be the issue with a higher mile motor. The M30 is sensitive to vaccum leaks, which are easily fixed by getting the rolls of tubing from NAPA for cheap and just replacing all the old lines. Im really not sure what else it could be. Perhaps the owner thinks the car should be faster than it is?

-Jeff

Hmm, the E28 535i(S) isn't slow, though, is it? 0-60 in maybe low 7's? I don't think he would say it felt really slow if it didn't.

What would I do in the tune-up? Plugs, cap and rotor, and fluids? He said he did the ignition coil and it felt a lot better.

yea...and wires if they are cracked, fuel filter, air filter, perhaps carbon canister...or just place that neatly in the trash and seal all the line hook-ups left open from its removal. maybe throw some fuel injector cleaner in the tank. if the injectors havent been cleaned after 227k, that can be a power killer too.

-Jeff

It's actually 247k... lol. 227k was a typo on the seller's part.

I'm a little worried about that mileage. 247k?! I've never owned a car with over 145k, and that was my E30.

M30 is a fantastic motor and can go FOREVER with regular maintenance. There are plenty of people with M30's that have 250k+ daily drivers. If it made it that far from the 80's haha, im sure itll go some more. The m30 was in production of some form from the late 70s(i think) to the early-mid 90s. It was one of bmw's most successful big sixes ever.

-Jeff

M30 is a fantastic motor and can go FOREVER with regular maintenance. There are plenty of people with M30's that have 250k+ daily drivers. If it made it that far from the 80's haha, im sure itll go some more. The m30 was in production of some form from the late 70s(i think) to the early-mid 90s. It was one of bmw's most successful big sixes ever.

-Jeff

Ok, because I am going to be using this as my DD. About 50 miles average per day.

Oh, also another concern: how does the A/C work on these E28s? Are they commonly DOA?

Well you wont have to worry about A/C for a little while haha. Ive never used the A/C on an old bimmer, im more partial to windows down. But from looking at countless ad's over the past few years, it tends to be hit or miss. And im not sure when the A/C systems switced to r134a, cause that is a popular conversion now.

-Jeff

Well you wont have to worry about A/C for a little while haha. Ive never used the A/C on an old bimmer, im more partial to windows down. But from looking at countless ad's over the past few years, it tends to be hit or miss. And im not sure when the A/C systems switced to r134a, cause that is a popular conversion now.

-Jeff

R134a started with the E36, IIRC, and I don't know what E34's used. E28's definitely used R12.

But Northern Virginia gets EXTREMELY humid in the summer sometimes, and having the windows down during a 25 mile commute going 65 miles per hour just won't cut it.

Last year I distinctly remember a few 105-degree heat index days. I just about died in my E30. The A/C worked after a recharge but I never liked to use it because the 4-cylinder was already lacking in power as it was; using the A/C basically took away any fun factor. :rofl

Also, suspension and steering: do the steering boxes typically need replacement, and if so, how much are they? Also, how much would it be for a complete front-end revamping--thrust arms/bushings, control arms/bushings, all that stuff.

steering box has a fix that is a long bolt essentially...someone sells it on ebay from time to time for like 20 bucks. steve haygood might have soemthign for that too. here is a kit that would basically redo the front end. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-BMW-E28-E24-Control-Arm-Arms-Kit-633-535-528-524-53_W0QQitemZ250087508586QQihZ015QQcategoryZ33583QQ rdZ1QQcmdZViewItemare you a DIY?

-Jeff

FCP Groton is the pitts, don't touch that stuff unless you like changing bushings every 15k.

Yeah, the a/c system is definitely run on r-12. You could convert it to r-134, or you could convert it to freeze 12 from www.es-refrigerants.com.

Steering boxes generally do not fail. Use that ebay kit and you'll be fine. What most often fails is the pedal assembly and clutch master and slave cylinders. Make sure the pedal box is welded so it doesn't crack.

Try disconnecting a vacuum hose while the engine is running and let it suck up a can of Sea Foam. Worked great in restoring my idle quality and helped the engine run smoother. Just smokes like hell when you're using it.

Try disconnecting a vacuum hose while the engine is running and let it suck up a can of Sea Foam. Worked great in restoring my idle quality and helped the engine run smoother. Just smokes like hell when you're using it.

There's a great video demo on this in the PNW BMWCCA, I believe.

Thanks for all the additional responses.

I am hopefully meeting the seller tomorrow, but he wants me to drive downtown (into D.C.) to meet him, since I'm not fully committed and he doesn't want to waste his time. This sucks, because I won't have much time to meet him (out of school at about 11, work at 4). Meh.

I'll let you guys know what comes of it.

I wouldn't worry about the high mileage too much. My car has 390k Km on it. Thats well over 200k miles and it still runs strong. With a busted head gasket, warped head, and a broken valve it still gave my brothers E34 540i a run for his money. It was still going 120-130 mph easy, and even faster then that. Now its all fixed and its like a completely different animal. I absolutely love it.

EDIT: Also about that tire page. The link for the picture of the TRXs even says, "Bottlecaps."

I wouldn't worry about the high mileage too much. My car has 390k Km on it. Thats well over 200k miles and it still runs strong. With a busted head gasket, warped head, and a broken valve it still gave my brothers E34 540i a run for his money. It was still going 120-130 mph easy, and even faster then that. Now its all fixed and its like a completely different animal. I absolutely love it.

Yeah.

But the fact that it even had a busted HG, warped head, and broken valve concerns me. This car has about the same number of miles (247,000 vs. your 242,000), so I'm a bit worried similar conditions will eventually occur... :dunno

EDIT: Also about that tire page. The link for the picture of the TRXs even says, "Bottlecaps."

I think he is saying that there were TRXs that were bottlecaps.

Hopefully, I will be meeting with the seller today, but it may not happen due to time constraints and may have to wait till Saturday.

Ok, an update. I need feedback ASAP so I can know whether or not to buy this thing. Something is telling me "yes," but I'm not positive.

I met with the seller just across the Key Bridge (that goes into Georgetown), in Rosslyn, for those of you who are familiar with Washington, D.C. :)

I drove around some of the Beltway and then went all around Rock Creek Parkway.

Unfortunately, I didn't get any pics, but here are my impressions:

Basically, I would say this car is a promising project car. Definitely not an ideal daily driver at the moment, but with a tune-up, I believe it would be.

EXTERIOR:

Very clean red paint, perhaps not OEM but very shiny and seemingly high-quality nonetheless.

No rust spotted on the outside, but I didn't put it on a lift and check the underbody.

Perhaps four dings where noticeable creases/dips exist--one on the roof, one on the passenger front door, one on the trunk, and I believe a small one somewhere else. But no real dents to speak of. These are rather minor in the scheme of things. I'm just being nit-picky.

What appears to be an iS trunk lid spoiler, black. Very nice touch. Must have been added by one of the previous owners.

Tires and wheels ARE TRXs! This sucks, but at least the tires (Michelin TRXs) have good tread (220/60/390???). Apparently, there are a couple different appearances for the TRXs... these bottlecaps and the ones EuroM535i posted above.

Front grille piece was missing, but he has the piece, I believe it just needs a little grommet thing.

Let me know if I missed anything.

INTERIOR:

Seats are in great shape for the age. Minor rip in the driver's side, but not too noticeable.

No radio OR kick panels. I believe the previous owner removed this when he sold the car. This sucks, because I'd have to put in new speakers AND a head unit.

Power windows, seats, and sunroof all worked great. Well, I didn't try all of the seat settings (these things are sweet; this is a 1985 model, and these seats have more adjustments than 95% of modern cars!!! :eyecrazy), but the ones I did try worked. :D

Tach, odometer (247,xxx miles), and speedometer all work great.

Didn't try headlights.

Heat didn't seem to work that well, but we only played with it for a minute before getting really hot from the warmish air that was blowing out (it was like 55 today). The seller says it works, so I'll take his word for it.

A/C doesn't work, according to seller. Probably just needs a recharge, I think. It blew out cold air, but probably because the heating wasn't working too well, lol.

Turn signals worked fine.

Let me know if I missed anything.

MECHANICAL:

This is where the car could use the most work.

First of all, there was a noticeable lack of power, especially at lower RPMs.

The engine also shook a lot while pressing down on the accelerator pedal at LOWER RPMs. Motor mounts???? Keep in mind the car has 247,xxx miles on it.

The car idled well, but the M30 is known for being fairly rough, by comparison to say the M20B25 or M50B25, right? I'm sure it could use new motor mounts, though.

Brake lining, brake, ABS, and coolant lights were on. Seller thinks the coolant might be a tad low, but the car did not overheat at all during our entire drive.

Again, car ran at perfect operating temperature (between 1/2 and 1/2 points) for the entire drive (probably 45 minutes in all).

I'm not sure what it is, but at high speeds (75 MPH+), the car didn't feel that stable. It felt like it was being pushed side to side by the wind or something, but there wasn't a whole lot of wind today. Tire pressure? Probably just needs a suspension refresh.

Car handled impressively well for being so old, in the twisties of Rock Creek Parkway. I didn't push it, since the seller was a bit nervous (he was using tags assigned to another car, and we passed a few cops on the way).


OVERALL:

My appraisal of what the car needs:

-Cap and rotor
-Motor mounts???
-Brake job (rotors and pads)
-Complete suspension refresh -- thrust arms, bushings, control arms, links, etc.
-Head unit and kick panel speakers
-Possibly A/C recharge and/or HVAC repair of some sort?
-New wheels and tires for when the TRXs wear down

FINAL PRICE:
We negotiated a final price of $1,100. However, since I couldn't make up my mind after our long drive today, he told me he wouldn't be able to give me that price after today. I know a lot of people say that, but I sort of believe the guy. He was heading right after our meeting to buy a new cap and rotor, so he said if he installs those, he will bump the price up to $1,500. But, I bet I could get him to lower it back to $1,100 if I bring cash right when I call.


Thoughts? I want it, but I'm just not sure. Guess I need reassurance/more opinions before dropping $1,100 on this mini-project.

Yeah, sounds like it'll need motor mounts and some front suspension parts refreshed. How's the trans?

Trust me, the stock speakers and head unit aren't the greatest. That'd be the first thing I'd replace on the inside of just about any car anyway. Kick panels can be had for cheap if you dig around.

In all, it sounds like a pretty solid start for a project, and if you put in a little cash, a reliable DD. Bring 1100 with you in cash and the guy would be stupid not to go for it.

Yeah, sounds like it'll need motor mounts and some front suspension parts refreshed. How's the trans?

Trust me, the stock speakers and head unit aren't the greatest. That'd be the first thing I'd replace on the inside of just about any car anyway. Kick panels can be had for cheap if you dig around.

In all, it sounds like a pretty solid start for a project, and if you put in a little cash, a reliable DD. Bring 1100 with you in cash and the guy would be stupid not to go for it.

Its funny you say that. I still have the stock radio and all the stock speakers. Works well enough for me. No distortion or anything after 20 years of use.

if it needs front end work its not worth more than 1100, ive owned 5 e24's and a 535is, i dont even worry about the miles on the car, i just bought a 88 635 and the odometer dosnt work, i dont even care, these engines last forever, u have to remember, these are from the eightys, there not real fast off the line, there for highway speed, those lights are all sensors that u will have to replace and with inop a/c, no way would i pay 1500, there well built cars and easy to work on.

Thanks for the advice, guys. I think I'm going to pass. Combined with what you guys have said and what the MyE28 guys said, I don't think this is as good of a deal as I thought it was. Some guys on MyE28 said there are often great, perfectly running E28s for $1,500. Guess it's just a question of patience.

Yeah, sounds like it'll need motor mounts and some front suspension parts refreshed. How's the trans?

Trust me, the stock speakers and head unit aren't the greatest. That'd be the first thing I'd replace on the inside of just about any car anyway. Kick panels can be had for cheap if you dig around.

In all, it sounds like a pretty solid start for a project, and if you put in a little cash, a reliable DD. Bring 1100 with you in cash and the guy would be stupid not to go for it.

The tranny and clutch seem fine, but I forgot to mention that the shifter is the sloppiest I have probably ever seen. You have to pull it towards you and then up to get it into reverse... it's messed up. But it shifted perfectly.

Shifters in e28s are always sloppy. Replacing the shifter bushings helps some, but the real fix is a UUC DSSR.

And dude, every BMW I've ever been in has reverse all the way towards you and up.

Shifters in e28s are always sloppy. Replacing the shifter bushings helps some, but the real fix is a UUC DSSR.

And dude, every BMW I've ever been in has reverse all the way towards you and up.

This one was exceptionally sloppy. Like 10x worse than my E30. It actually MOVED around the entire shift boot without actually shifting (with the clutch in).

My E30's reverse (and E36's that I've driven) did move somewhat towards you, but it wasn't towards you per se. It was more to the left. This one you actually moved DOWN, towards you, and then up again--so much that I had to try three times to get it right. Sorry for being unclear.

Either way, I don't think I'm going to get it. It will probably require $1,000 in work.

Ah, well then it definitely needs new shifter bushings.


My advice would be to save up a little more money so you can increase your buying options a bit. 2 grand can get you a nicely sorted e28 that will need very little, if anything. Check roadfly, autotrader, and the mye28.com classifieds and you'll find a good one.

Ah, well then it definitely needs new shifter bushings.


My advice would be to save up a little more money so you can increase your buying options a bit. 2 grand can get you a nicely sorted e28 that will need very little, if anything. Check roadfly, autotrader, and the mye28.com classifieds and you'll find a good one.

Yeah, I agree there.

I actually found a nice-looking 5 speed E34 535i for $3,000 on Autotrader! :eek: If only I had $3k... :(

Shifters in e28s are always sloppy. Replacing the shifter bushings helps some, but the real fix is a UUC DSSR.

And dude, every BMW I've ever been in has reverse all the way towards you and up.

what is a ucc dssr?