Hey guys, as spring approaches I would like to use a claybar on my cars. I have never used one of these before and would like to get some info on the right procedure, right products. etc. suggestions welcome. thank you

You can get them at pepboys, autozone......
Most come with a detailer spray for lube.

I like Meg's white clay and Clay Magic blue clay for more aggresive uses.
Turn the clay for a clean side after you finish a section of the car.

Use any detailer spray as lube, I water mine down 70/30. Get some MF towels and don't forget to wax after you're done.

Autogeek, the sponsor of this sub-forum, has some pretty good directions for using clay bars. I've also placed a couple of orders with them and have always had great service.

As Zaf said, they are available at some autoparts retailers. Good luck and be patient.

Hey guys, as spring approaches I would like to use a claybar on my cars. I have never used one of these before and would like to get some info on the right procedure, right products. etc. suggestions welcome. thank you

Clay bar will take about the same period of time to do as it takes you to apply and buff off wax. All depends on the size of your car.
Start with roof and work downward, clay the trim, badges, bumpers and glass. Now that the major parts of the body are done clay bar door jambs, hood and trunk gutters, gas refill area. Now do your wheels and lugs.
I use surgical type gloves as I also spray the clay in my hand with QD as I kneed the clay. This keeps the QD from getting all over my hands. I lay newspaper taped together under the area I will be working on. This keeps QD over spray from getting on my floor [this is slick stuff when you forget about it and walk over the area after the car has been returned to the client] ask me how I know about this indoor slip and slid. If the bar slips out of my grasp and touches the floor it is immediately pitched into the trash. You do not want to be putting new marks into the finish. Just pitch it.
Next step apply a swirl remover.
Next step is to add a pure polish to the car.
Next step apply your wax or sealant.
Stand back and admire your work………take pics!
If your have read this far you are well on your way to a show car type shine by hand and here is the only [magic trick I have up my sleeve]. Before you start the process get a sandwich type plastic baggie and very gently rub your car and feel the tiny bumps on your fingertips do the same on the glass and trim areas. These are bonded contaminants and the clay process will remove these for a smooth base for the rest of the process steps.
Al

Two tips
1. Take your time, claying can cause marring
2. If you drop it, throw it away. Even if you can't see any dirt on it... throw it away. Even if it landed for just 1/2 second... throw it away :)

I like clay magic kit for starters, it is the cheapest and comes with clay and lube

thanks a lot guys. im sure this will be much helpful

It's very important to wash and dry the vehicle first to remove dirt and loose contaminants prior to claying.

Also, make sure to use an adequate amount of lubricant to prevent the clay from sticking or streaking on the paint.

what kind of ulbricant would be best? Is water ok? I also use a next wet shine polish on my car. Would that suffice as a lube or would I need somthing more?

Best thing is clay lube. If you don't have any, mix a little car wash soap and water in a spray bottle. This sometimes may cause clay bars to crumble though, but water alone is not good.

quick detailer makes a great lubricant- whether it be mothers or meguires

Personally i think that claying is over-rated and is only useful when you have significantly dirty paint. Just rub your hand accross the paint and if its smooth/free of stuck on dirt you prob dont even need to clay your car. I highly reccomend you get some klasse All in One cleaner to clean up your paint for the spring. If your car is real filthy, you def should use a claybar system before hand

And yes- you better wash it before claying :duh
In the past i washed the car twice just to make sure as much dirt was removed as possable before claying

quick detailer makes a great lubricant- whether it be mothers or meguires

Personally i think that claying is over-rated and is only useful when you have significantly dirty paint. Just rub your hand accross the paint and if its smooth/free of stuck on dirt you prob dont even need to clay your car. I highly reccomend you get some klasse All in One cleaner to clean up your paint for the spring. If your car is real filthy, you def should use a claybar system before hand

And yes- you better wash it before claying :duh
In the past i washed the car twice just to make sure as much dirt was removed as possable before claying

Clay is hardly overrated. Almost every new car I've bought has had rail dust from transport, and the only way to remove it is by claying. Not to mention highway driven cars get pounded by brake dust and fallout. It makes the surface buttery smooth and ready for polishing.

Speed Shine + Clay = Super Clean Paint..

quick detailer makes a great lubricant- whether it be mothers or meguires

Personally i think that claying is over-rated and is only useful when you have significantly dirty paint. Just rub your hand accross the paint and if its smooth/free of stuck on dirt you prob dont even need to clay your car. I highly reccomend you get some klasse All in One cleaner to clean up your paint for the spring. If your car is real filthy, you def should use a claybar system before hand

And yes- you better wash it before claying :duh
In the past i washed the car twice just to make sure as much dirt was removed as possable before claying

I've clayed before followed by polish, followed by Wax.

I've also polished, followed by Wax.

I honestly could not tell the difference in look or condition of paint between the two methods. After each process, the paint was smooth, and the finish was glossy. Neither looked better than the other.

also, have a look at Autogeek's Detailing Facts, Tips & Tricks section, there is a nice right up on how to use a clay bar.

Just to clarify my post above. I am confident that Clay bar works VERY well when you have rail dust, sap, or other foreign particles sticking to your paint. But other than that...I'm not certain claying is beneficial to a surface that is already in good shape, but simply in need of a polishing and a protecting(wax).

Well sure, but thing is, I bet 95% of all cars on the road have some sort of "grit" feeling to them, expecially the front bumper/fender area. Claying that area takes less than 30min and the paint will be smooth as glass. There is no negatives to claying, just positives. Besides, worst case scenario is that you might try to remove any of the grit while polishing and end up marring the hell out of your paint. Do it right, or don't do anything at all. Way I see it.

Speaking to me as if I didn't used to be a detailer is a mistake. I'll let it slide though. I'm correct in saying that rail dust and bake dust WILL NOT be removed by AIO, that's the funniest thing I've heard in a while though, thanks.

While I do believe you have a nice smooth feeling paint, it cannot stay that way being driven in the real world with just AIO. Besides, AIO/SG are old news, JW, and OPT are better. Klasse was revamped post VOC changes and can't compete like it used to.