Hey everone, I'm new here.

I just got my hands on a 1988 BMW M5 that has been in storage for years. It has approx. 90,000 miles. It was in mint condition before the storage and extremely well serviced. I want to give the car a tune up and general insection. I would love some advice as to what I should do regarding maintenece - What fluids to change, what brands to use, etc...

Here's my list so far:
Engine Oil + Filter
Compression Test
Transmission Fluid
Brake Fluid
Coolant Flush
Radiator (spout broke)
Thermostat
Power Steering Fluid
Differential Fluid
Fuel Filter
Fuel Rail Flush
Spark Plugs
Distributor Cap
Rotor Button
Battery
New Tires and Alignment. (Currently 235 45 17 Throwing Stars)
Air Filter (There's a cone, is OEM setup better?)
Hoses that look bad
Wiper Blades
Inspection of Belts

Welcome and congrats on finding a great car! You've got a pretty comprehensive list there, and I wouldn't skip any item. You'll find a lot of great resources here, and several other sites on the 'Net. The search box is your friend - Google too! In addition to online resources, I listen to my mechanic and read Roundel (the BMW CCA magazine), whose technical editor is a BMW tech with years of experience with street and race cars.

My suggestions follow:

Engine Oil + Filter - Rotella

Brake Fluid - Roundel Mag recommends Red Line

Power Steering Fluid - Probably ATF. Whatever the owners' manual specifies

Differential Fluid - Red Line

Fuel Rail Flush - BG44K

Spark Plugs - NGK or Bosch, probably single prong - 2 or 4 prongs won't help unless the engine was designed for them. (flame suit on)

Battery - the subject of much debate here - use search for options
New Tires and Alignment. (Currently 235 45 17 Throwing Stars) - AWESOME wheels

Air Filter (There's a cone, is OEM setup better?) - There was a recent post about this, panel filters are most effective at cleaning air, cones are most effective at increasing airflow. Either way, check them often and change as needed. They're cheaper than fixing a damaged engine.

Congrats on your new acquisition. Like you, I'm also new here. I've been at MyE28.com since it's beginnings, one of the refugees from the Roach.

Anyway your list of things to do are a good start, however there are a few other items I don't see on your list.

Compression tests only tell a partial story, you should have a leakdown test done by a shop that knows what they're doing.

You might wnat to have the valve clearances checked if you don't have documentation indicating the last time they were checked.

Have the timing chain guides replaced, this is very important if you want to avoid possibly grenading your engine. They're nearly 20 years old, made of plastic and become brittle. There have been a number of cases of engine destruction due to the cams jumping time from bits of the plastics guides fouling the timing chain and gears. You should also have the sprockets replaced and consider installing a Fahey crank hub. This work typically runs about $1k in the US without the Fahey hub. Add another $325 for the hub. Doing this service is about 10% of the cost of a high quality rebuild of the S38B35, pretty cheap insurance.

About the cone filter, find a OE airbox and get rid of the cone filter. The OE filter box is a cold air system. The paper filter is a panel type with far more surface area than the typical cone. If the cone filter doesn't have a cold air box surrounding it, it's actually costing you power. In addition, they don't filter as well and can lead to early wear of your engine.

HTH

Rich
'85 Euro M5 #34 of 588
'86 535i/A (The Daily Driver)
'06 Copper S (SO's ride)

You owe us pictures.

About the cone filter, find a OE airbox and get rid of the cone filter. The OE filter box is a cold air system. The paper filter is a panel type with far more surface area than the typical cone. If the cone filter doesn't have a cold air box surrounding it, it's actually costing you power. In addition, they don't filter as well and can lead to early wear of your engine.

Yes, completely agree. The real benefit of the stock airbox is resonance. The airbox (I am not talking about the plenum) completes the proper system resonance.

Air Filter (There's a cone, is OEM setup better?) - There was a recent post about this, panel filters are most effective at cleaning air, cones are most effective at increasing airflow. Either way, check them often and change as needed. They're cheaper than fixing a damaged engine.

This disregards resonance tuning.

Rich, I am surprised you did not bring up the proper transmission fluid problem. Look at your G280 and see what color the label is (it is a pink/red or green foil label).

Pink/Red Label on the transmission = ATF
Green Label on the transmission = MTL

Engine Oil + Filter - Rotella

Brake Fluid - Roundel Mag recommends Red Line

Power Steering Fluid - Probably ATF. Whatever the owners' manual specifies

Differential Fluid - Red Line

Fuel Rail Flush - BG44K

Spark Plugs - NGK or Bosch, probably single prong - 2 or 4 prongs won't help unless the engine was designed for them. (flame suit on)

Battery - the subject of much debate here - use search for options
New Tires and Alignment. (Currently 235 45 17 Throwing Stars) - AWESOME wheels



The ONLY spark plugs you can use in the S38B35 are Bosch X5DC. You can use other brands, but they will not work as well as the Bosch X5DC.

Rotella is not a common oil for S38B35. The most commonly used oil in the S38B35 is Mobil 1 15W50. Some like Redline synthetics, Kendall blends, or the Castrol 10W60. Why not go with the cheapie Mann oil filters at the stealer? They run $3 for me. Plus they come with the proper seals and crush washers.

Regarding the proper PS fluid. Some goofs will say the only proper fluid is the Pentosin, but it isnt. ZF isnt even sure what fluid to use. ATF will work; id just use something with a conditioner.

What is there to debate about the battery? Get a 12V 90Ah in the proper size. Some have gone with Optima, which is a good battery.

BG44k is the best.


Look at the fuel line hose. If the lifespan of the hose is in question, replace the fuel lines. It is not common, but I have seen more than a few E28 M5s in the junk yard because of an engine fire started by cracked fuel lines.

You owe us pictures.

+1

I am not allowed to post pics or urls.

Get your post count up to 20 - 25 and you can post pics.

Email them to travlr2010 /at/ gmail /dot/ com and I'll post them for you in the meantime ...

Get your post count up to 20 - 25 and you can post pics.

Email them to travlr2010 /at/ gmail /dot/ com and I'll post them for you in the meantime ...

You got mail!


Thank you Rich, de witt, and autophile for the info.

Pics!

Way to go with the Enclosed Transport - the only way to fly!

Nice looking car - gotta love t-stars!