So i have a few questions that have come up while looking around on the forum. First of all my M3 is the first BMW i have ever owned and i love it to death however i just atempted to install a stage 2 AA non-turbo kit (3.5HFM,Injectors,Intake and chip). But after installing the set up the car would not start. I thought the chip might be backwards from reading some of the other posts. So i turned it around and tried to start it and still no luck. I then re-installed all the factory equipment and still no luck. I posted the same problem on the e36 m3 part of the forum but realized i was in the wrong area :) I got a few replies saying that it might be a fuel pump but i dont see how that is possible. However i was told it might be EWS which makes more sence. Could i have fried my pump by possibly putting my chip in backwards? What kind of damage can i do? Any help would be great! Thanks for looking!!

I've heard of people putting the chip in bw and no ill effects other than it won't start.
I never have so...
There's a notch on one end of the chip and it should match the base you plug it into.
Post a pic of the chip.

Check your hfm plug position.
I'd doubt your crank position sensor is loose, but check that too.
You should be able to hear the fuel pump if it's working when you turn the key before starting.

well you can check fuel pressure the redneck way, after you crank your car push in the schrader valve on the fuel rail and if gas sprays out than you have fuel pressure if nothing happens than you don't. make sure you are smoking a marlbro while you are doing it or it wont work.(j/k but I should have to tell you that) that would rule the no fuel pressure out.

then I would check for spark un fortunatly its not as easy as it is on a car with a distributer bacause you will have to pull the coil pack and use a testor

if you have bolth of those and you exhaust dosnet have a potato in it or your intake is blocked than you have 2 out of 3 things your engine needs to start. if you have all 3 and it still wont start then things get complacated.

heres a neet trick you can try to see if your ecu is still working.
try getting a hand held radio and holding it up as close to the board as possable and if it is doing somthing you should hear stadic. I have never actually dont this on a car but I did it at school and when I had the opertunity I forgot about it. so maybe give it a try but if it dosent work dont trust it. if it does than it means that there is activity.

check the hfm and make sure its in the right direction and pluged in I am pretty sure the car will still start(but run awful) if its backwards but It might not if its unpluged.

check that the iac tube(s) diddnt pop off during the intake install.

last but not least check the fuse. even if it dosent look blown ot could still be blown I had it happen to me and I was ready to buy a new ecu and it turned out it was the fuse that looked fine from the top, it wasnt a cool euro fuse that are better at looking blown.

thats all I can think of off the top of my head let us know what it turns out to be.

Promp3, 95's don't have the schraeder valve.

really? well thats mildly inconvienet

i checked all the fuses and they are all fine, however i am still not quite sure wich relay is the fuel pump. Would i be able to charge the fuel pump throght the fuse or does the ECU throw the relay? I talk to my friendly mechanic who is a friend of my old boss and said he would re-train the keys for free, but I would like not to tow it down there. I am just wondering what i could have dne wrong gbeing the only thing i seemed to have done wrong is put the EPROM in backwards. I did not check the hoses but i did put the old MAF back in to see if that was it and still no luck. Any help on which relay the fuel pump would be very helpful, or maybe a link. Thanks for the help and I will keep you guys posted. Oh and by the way has anyone seen a peak programmer just flash E, the manual said a loose connection but i tried it 3 times. Oh well ill givr it another shot in a couple of days when i get back from work. Thanks for the help so far :)

I was just reading this on understeer.com and I though of you. it could very well be the ews becasue your year is right on the line and when you ordered your chip did you go buy the title year or the build date?


"My buddy's '93 325 chip will work fine in my '95 325, right?
Probably not. BMW included EWS-2 on all E36 cars built 1/95 and later. EWS-2 is a antitheft system that works by coding a chip in the ignition key to the DME (engine computer). Chips for 12/94 and earlier cars do not work in 1/95 and later cars. Also '92 325 models did not have VANOS (variable valve timing) so those chips are different too. You're really best off calling the manufacturer of a used chip to confirm that it will work in YOUR car before buying it. An even better idea is to just buy a new chip. If you save $50, but end up with a chip that doesn't work, what have you saved?"

thanks for the post but i left out that the previous owner had the chip in the car. He removed the entire kit that i just put in the car due to people thinking the car was a rac car :) So i know the car had the exact chip in there so that adds to my frustration knowing that i am attempting to install somthing that was in there before so the saga continues i hope it all sorts out soon, im missing all the good weather driving around a work van :) thanks for the input thought keep you posted

Build date:alright
I've had to learn that lesson.
Mine's not VANOS. Built in 2/92. But I've read that maybe that's not so bad. Anyway, I'd like to chip it too. Will that make it quicker on the low end? And add a CAI. I'm studying the combo, but have been meaning to search a thread. Any suggestions?
Will the CAI be discounted if I dont do anything to the exhaust?