I just got some updated pics of my cage from my builder. I thought I'd share some of them with you guys. I can't wait to get my car back.

http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/images/CustCars/BMW/E36/VKM3/VK_E36049.JPG
http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/images/CustCars/BMW/E36/VKM3/VK_E36048.JPG
http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/images/CustCars/BMW/E36/VKM3/VK_E36047.JPG
http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/images/CustCars/BMW/E36/VKM3/VK_E36046.JPG
http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/images/CustCars/BMW/E36/VKM3/VK_E36045.JPG
http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/images/CustCars/BMW/E36/VKM3/VK_E36044.JPG
http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/images/CustCars/BMW/E36/VKM3/VK_E36043.JPG

http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/images/CustCars/BMW/E36/VKM3/VK_E36050.JPG
http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/images/CustCars/BMW/E36/VKM3/VK_E36051.JPG
http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/images/CustCars/BMW/E36/VKM3/VK_E36052.JPG
http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/images/CustCars/BMW/E36/VKM3/VK_E36053.JPG

sweet

Very nice. The basic sturcture looks almost identical to mine (except I have all the extra subframe connections :) ). I realize that you dropped the top of the X door bar a bit to allow for easier in/out, but don't you feel that the X bars should connect to the A pillar bar right at the same point as the dash bar? I have yet to add the two top bars on mine, and I'd like to hear your (or your builder's) justification on dropping them a few inches.

Also, can I get a bit more info on how the net is mounted? Is that bottom bar a big spring mounted latch or something?

Nice.

Can't you loose the stock dash bar? Hang the steering column from the new bar there?

edit: BTW, who's the builder?

BTW, who's the builder?

The builder is a local guy in St. Louis.

http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/

He's very cool. Works really fast and is just awesome. I've been so pleased with the progress so far. :buttrock

+1 for Scott at Izzy's Custom Cages. First rate, professional work that I hope I'll never have to use!

looks nice. i don't think i've seen the main hoop diagonal mounted that high before.

are you removing the hood latch? and do you expect your dash to fit back where the crossbar is?

looks nice. i don't think i've seen the main hoop diagonal mounted that high before.

are you removing the hood latch? and do you expect your dash to fit back where the crossbar is?



I'm not removing the hood latch because I do not believe the rules allow it. However, I was going to install some hood pins.

The dash does fit over the dash bar...I just didn't post the pics.

Just a note on the "high" mounted Diagonal. The hoop legs (as well as the downbars) under the tube joints are welded vertically on all sides and boxed into the 1/8" pads. Not really evident from the pics as it looks a little like a "cage on stilts". Not the case. Also, the right side net was just tacked in to check placement in that pic and later lost about an inch in length. I hate it when that happens (now back to lurking)

Just a note on the "high" mounted Diagonal. The hoop legs (as well as the downbars) under the tube joints are welded vertically on all sides and boxed into the 1/8" pads. Not really evident from the pics as it looks a little like a "cage on stilts". Not the case ;) (now back to lurking)



Yeah...what he said. He should know...since he's the one building it. :D

Yeah...what he said. He should know...since he's the one building it. :D

Cool ... so can he answer my question regarding the door bars above? :)

Nice!

It looks nice and stout. I like the gussets on at the x in the back…oh, the others as well.

BTW….do not get discouraged by the online bickering, this is how some people release their stored energy between races. :hacker

When you get to the track, most of the online personalities change for the better. :drink1

Nice!

It looks nice and stout. I like the gussets on at the x in the back…oh, the others as well.

BTW….do not get discouraged by the online bickering, this is how some people release their stored energy between races. :hacker

When you get to the track, most of the online personalities change for the better. :drink1

Agreed, it looks 100% better then my cage. Get out there and do your thing :buttrock

Just a note on the "high" mounted Diagonal. The hoop legs (as well as the downbars) under the tube joints are welded vertically on all sides and boxed into the 1/8" pads. Not really evident from the pics as it looks a little like a "cage on stilts". Not the case. Also, the right side net was just tacked in to check placement in that pic and later lost about an inch in length. I hate it when that happens (now back to lurking)

cool. i'm having a cage built this week and i have a lot of ideas for what i want the builder to do. boxing the main hoop legs up the side of the mounting pads is one of those ideas

Just remember to follow your class rules. Nothing worse than someone posting pics of thier cage and have it pointed out its not legal.

Looking good, Vince!:buttrock

check

I just got some updated pics of my cage from my builder. I thought I'd share some of them with you guys. I can't wait to get my car back.

Very nice looking! I love those clamshell (or taco shell if you prefer) gussets. It looks like a very clean installation too. Good work!

Just remember to follow your class rules. Nothing worse than someone posting pics of thier cage and have it pointed out its not legal.

Good point. I would say everything looks good so far, the small nitpick about the dash bar and the door x not connecting at the same node is minor. Trust me I've seen much, much worse and this cage ranks very high when compared to others. It is quite nice. We'd need to see more detail on the base plates for the main hoop and the others as well to fully give you two thumbs up. :cool

Nicely done so far in my opinion.

Carlos.

Updated pics after paint work. It's looking good and Scott is doing a great job!

Vince,

In the pics showing the Cut-off switches. Are the other pull knobs both fire protection? And, do they work in tandom? Looks good, kudos to Scott!

Damon in STL

Vince,

In the pics showing the Cut-off switches. Are the other pull knobs both fire protection? And, do they work in tandom? Looks good, kudos to Scott!

Damon in STL



Yes, those are both fire pulls. My system is mechanical so either pull will activate the bottle.

Good point. I would say everything looks good so far, the small nitpick about the dash bar and the door x not connecting at the same node is minor.

It's not a nitpick ... it's a question, since I'm about to weld my X bars in :rolleyes

Scott, always [try to atleast] have your tubes intersecting with other tubes to create "nodes." You don't want a tube welded to another tube with nothing else counteracting its load. You also do not need to have an "X" thats straight, you can just offset two bars and do sheet metal gussets with flared holes and it'll just as strong and offers much easier egress.

I also would take the extra 15minutes and do a full sheet metal gusset instead of these small triangles I have seen people using. For the extra 3-4lbs of steel to gusset everything, it can make a substantial difference for overal rigidty. Very Substantial in most cases.

Was the OP's cage welded by two different people? It looks like two distinctly different types of weld beads.

...You also do not need to have an "X" thats straight, you can just offset two bars and do sheet metal gussets with flared holes and it'll just as strong and offers much easier egress.

http://www.collaborating.net/m3/racecar/leftinterior.jpg


Steve,

I need to add a second door bar to my cage. Where would you recommend it go...above/below or cut out existing and add two new?

Damon in STL

Scott, always [try to atleast] have your tubes intersecting with other tubes to create "nodes." You don't want a tube welded to another tube with nothing else counteracting its load. You also do not need to have an "X" thats straight, you can just offset two bars and do sheet metal gussets with flared holes and it'll just as strong and offers much easier egress.


Right, that was my intention all along ... seeing this cage just prompted my question, that's all. I will have a bar going from the A pillar to the front shock towers, which WILL be at the same point as the X bars ... with this in mind, I think I can safely sacrifice the joining to the dash bar for some easy access.

[QUOTE=Steve J.;8101080]I also would take the extra 15minutes and do a full sheet metal gusset instead of these small triangles I have seen people using. For the extra 3-4lbs of steel to gusset everything, it can make a substantial difference for overal rigidty. Very Substantial in most cases.
QUOTE]

Do you mean a taco instead of a 1 sided flat gusset?

btw ... my name is Arek ... ScotcH referes to the tape manufacturer (don't ask) :) (unless of course you actually meant Scott who welded the cage ... in which case, nevermind!)

Whats the car for, I assume just DE?

You can just put in a bar from the harness crossbar point on the main B pillar hoop, and go down to the base of the As pillar. Not the best to have that straight bar there, but if this is just a DE car, it'll allow you an easy way to get in and out with some side protection.

Whats the car for, I assume just DE?

You can just put in a bar from the harness crossbar point on the main B pillar hoop, and go down to the base of the As pillar. Not the best to have that straight bar there, but if this is just a DE car, it'll allow you an easy way to get in and out with some side protection.

The car is going to be run in ITR with SCCA. It's a former Midwest Council ITGT car. The cage in it now is a weld-in kit from Bimmerworld??? (I need to check the paperwork to verify).

Damon in STL

It's not a nitpick ... it's a question, since I'm about to weld my X bars in :rolleyes

Sorry didn't mean it that way. :)

You are correct in that they should intersect.

Carlos.

I meant scott as in your username.

But, I would still try to have them intersect no matter what, just do what I suggested before and offset them, should be fine (refer to www.bryanwatts.com for pics of this technique).