OK, I have a 1995 ti, and my abs light came on. At first it came on when I started moving the car. Now it's on all the time. I c`hecked, and the ABS is not working. It sounds like all of the posts on here about this try shotgun replacing parts based on their cost. But I like diagnosing problems and fixixing them. Sure it sometimes takes longer, but I'm an engineer, so it's in my nature.

So... I'm wondering, how to test the wheel speed sensors, brake travel sensor, and relays. Can anyone help???
-Dave

Well the Bentley manual doesn't explain how to test them, but you may want to start with just a visual inspection of the wheel speed sensors. Check the full length of wiring for cuts, chafing or tears, as well as the connections.

You might also want to unbolt each wheel's sensor and clean the tips. Inspect the hub's teeth while they're out for damaged, missing or corroded teeth. I guess it could even be a fuse.

Thanks,

I replaced my front wheel bearings about 5 months ago, My first thoughts whne the light came on was relays, and wheel sensors. Unfortunately I broke the retaining screw holding in the first sensor I tried to remove. This is gonna be tough to inspect on them all. That's why I was hoping for a way to diagnose which sensor was a problem, or which component.

I did a search and came up with a thread and a link:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...t=abs+bleeding (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=125355&highlight=abs+bleeding)
http://www.geocities.com/e36rulz/ABS...scription.html

I'm going to try this soon

Why not check the fault code that is throwing the ABS light in the first place?

Mo,
I didn't know I could do that. My car is a 1995 so it is OBDI. If you know how to do it, clue me in. When I called the dealer, they wanted way too much to read the ABS code.
Thanks!

I have a 95 as well and you can read the codes for ABS faults with a reader just like any other faults. You have to have a reader that can pull the codes from the ABS unit.

I'm not really sure if the 5 pedal press while the car is in the on position will give you ABS control faults or not. There are threads on here about the 5 pedal press if you don't know how to do it.

I guess I can check it when I get home. My ABS light is on and the code points to the ABS pump, so I just figured my car has the same problem as all of the older e36's with the broken leads in the pump. Definitely not worth the 1200+ for the pump, and this is a track car, so not having ABS is no big deal.

I only use the dealer for my family car that is still under warranty. Everything else goes to an independent BMW mechanic that I have been using for years. He will usually read codes for me without charging.

I don't see this as being a Ti specific problem... don't all E36 OBD-I cars share the same ABS setup?

ya i have never had this problem since i dont have abs .. lol.. but i know you can read it to figure out what the problem is in most cases ... your mechanic (or nearby one) might have a reader and probly wont charge you as much as the dealer

Kevlar,
In the Bently manual is shows a different schematic for the ti ABS system.

Kevlar,
In the Bently manual is shows a different schematic for the ti ABS system.
Ok... I stand corrected.

I ran some diagnostics on the system. Looks like my RF wheel speed sensor is faulty. I'm gonna check the wiring after I eat some Turkey. Is anyone interested in how I did it? If there's real interest I'll post a DIY.

yeah man i was gonna say just roll up to auto zone and they'll check codes for free... woohoo

My car is a 1995 so a-zone doesn't check it. The abs codes are different than engine codes, too. Anyway, the only way I know to check it is to bring it to a dealer or other bmw specialist, or buy a peake tool for abs.

I had the same problem after a suspension overhaul. What had happened was, when I reinstalled all the wiring I left too big a loop in the sensor cable and it was rubbing on the wheel. Eventually, the spinning rim wore through the insulation, and BAM, ABS fault.

So, pull wheels and check the entire length of the cable for damage as recommended above. If there is no visual damage, you can still check the sensor with a multimeter. The VR sensors the E30 uses read ~1.2kOhm IIRC, and it should be the same on the E36, unless they went to a Hall-effect type. Chances are they are still using VR units to this day however. Good luck!

After my suspesion overhaul I got an ABS light as well. pulled codes 148 and 177. Does anyone no what these codes mean?

After my suspesion overhaul I got an ABS light as well. pulled codes 148 and 177. Does anyone no what these codes mean?
It means you screwed something up:D J/K. Check all of the ABS wires that you moved around when you were working on your suspension. make sure they didn't get ripped out and also check to see that they're routed properly and not fraying against your wheels or suspension components. It's more than likely one of the fronts, since they're actually routed through the strut assembly and were probably easier to damage.