View Full Version : Thinking of purchasing an 83 633Csi...


jrhaile
10-29-2006, 02:55 PM
This is going to be used as my DD/Winter car. The price is right, it sounds like it's in great condition considering how old it is... Where do people think of these cars overall? Also, how much HP/torque does this puppy make? Timing chain or belt?

here is the listing from the seller:

This is a classic 83 BMW 633CSi coupe. The car runs and drives good, the clutch and trans and brakes all work smoothly, it has good tires, all the lights work, starts right up warm or cold, the body is good other than a small dent in the right quarter panel over the wheel opening. the leather interior is in pretty good shape still, the glass is good, the sunroof works fine, the car has 238k on it but has been well maintained and has no clucks or bangs while driving, all maintainance records with it. there is no rust in the body at all, the paint is decent still. 1 window won't roll down and the heater does not blow unless the car is moving, the fan motor may need replacing which is located under the hood and is easily accessable. uses same parts as a 5 series. this has a 3.3 liter 6 cylinder/5 speed/rear wheel drive and has some get up and go to it. The M30 engines in these cars are nearly bullitproof and last forever. these cars were one of BMW's true classics. passed emissions last year and the check engine light is not on. is currently licensed. drive it as is or it would make a great restoration project. there are no fluid leaks, cash sale, no checks. might consider trade for a 3 convertable.

xatlas0
10-29-2006, 05:32 PM
There is always rust, somewhere. The 83 means it is an E28 based car, making parts much easier to find. The M30B33 made about 180hp, 200 ft-lbs of torque. The torque curve is almost flat from about 2-6k. The car makes a good highway cruiser, not such a good candidate for the stop light grand prix. All M30's use a timing chain. That said, my 3.0CS (the anscestor of the 6-er, weighs about 3000lbs) with a M30B35 (~210hp, 220 lb-ft) will give a Mini Cooper S with the JCW stff a serious run for its money from a roll.

jrhaile
10-29-2006, 05:50 PM
There is always rust, somewhere. The 83 means it is an E28 based car, making parts much easier to find. The M30B33 made about 180hp, 200 ft-lbs of torque. The torque curve is almost flat from about 2-6k. The car makes a good highway cruiser, not such a good candidate for the stop light grand prix. All M30's use a timing chain. That said, my 3.0CS (the anscestor of the 6-er, weighs about 3000lbs) with a M30B35 (~210hp, 220 lb-ft) will give a Mini Cooper S with the JCW stff a serious run for its money from a roll.

Thanks for the info... should I be really concerned about rust?

Also I can't seem to find any info on the 3.3l M30 anywhere?

And he mention's a "fan motor may need replacing" and a window won't roll down and the heat doesn't come on unless the car is moving. What could be the causes of these items? Window is probably a motor or something and possibly a blower motor for the heat?

doc ock
10-29-2006, 06:28 PM
Try this link. Tons of info on the 6ers.http://www.unixnerd.demon.co.uk/bmw_home.html

jrhaile
10-29-2006, 06:50 PM
Also forgot, the car is going for 1000

Ol'6erGuy
10-29-2006, 07:48 PM
James, I can tell you have the "sickness". As far as rust, the worst enemy of these cars, look at the front fenders, both up in front of the wheel (behind the turn signal. Also look at the front jack points, they rot out at the bottom, rear of the front fender. Look around the tail lights and the trunk lid. also, the spare boot. If you can get under the car, check out under the driver's feet, around the gas pedal.
You are fortunate that the car is E 28 based, it makes aftermarket parts much easier than the older E 12 based ones like mine. As said, these cars are made to get out and move down the road.
Hope you join the ranks, we need more sixer folk here in the northwest.

jrhaile
10-29-2006, 07:51 PM
James, I can tell you have the "sickness". As far as rust, the worst enemy of these cars, look at the front fenders, both up in front of the wheel (behind the turn signal. Also look at the front jack points, they rot out at the bottom, rear of the front fender. Look around the tail lights and the trunk lid. also, the spare boot. If you can get under the car, check out under the driver's feet, around the gas pedal.
You are fortunate that the car is E 28 based, it makes aftermarket parts much easier than the older E 12 based ones like mine. As said, these cars are made to get out and move down the road.
Hope you join the ranks, we need more sixer folk here in the northwest.

I'm having my cousin and another forum buddy check it out on Tuesday. If all looks clear, I'm going to either drive and or fly over this weekend and pick it up. maybe I'll make a detour down your way so you can check it out Bill. Thanks for the advice :alright

xatlas0
10-29-2006, 07:53 PM
Thanks for the info... should I be really concerned about rust?

Let me put it this way, my E9 with "no rust" has been in the body sho since august getting an 80% derust + repaint done to the tune of 7k. Rust is always expensive. So, yes, you should be concerned about rust.


Also I can't seem to find any info on the 3.3l M30 anywhere?
All M30's are very similar, with only minimal changes during the entire 25 year production run. What kind of info are you looking for? Plus, check out the bigcoupegroup site.


And he mention's a "fan motor may need replacing" and a window won't roll down and the heat doesn't come on unless the car is moving. What could be the causes of these items? Window is probably a motor or something and possibly a blower motor for the heat?
Sounds like an electrical, rather than mechanical, problem.

jrhaile
10-29-2006, 07:58 PM
Let me put it this way, my E9 with "no rust" has been in the body sho since august getting an 80% derust + repaint done to the tune of 7k. Rust is always expensive. So, yes, you should be concerned about rust.


All M30's are very similar, with only minimal changes during the entire 25 year production run. What kind of info are you looking for? Plus, check out the bigcoupegroup site.


Sounds like an electrical, rather than mechanical, problem.

I see your point about the rust... I'm not buying this thing to restore it. I'm buying it to drive it how it is for a couple of years or so. Just something as a DD/Winter car. I will fix/replace some of the annoying stuff that I see, but I surely won't be as anal as I am with my E36 or E30 :D

Again thanks for the info.

Ol'6erGuy
10-29-2006, 08:19 PM
I surely won't be as anal as I am with my E36 or E30 :D

Again thanks for the info.

James, these guys don't realize how much of an understatement this is...

jrhaile
10-29-2006, 08:21 PM
James, these guys don't realize how much of an understatement this is...

Bill you have no idea how anal I am with my E36 and E30. Ask Kevin, he knows :rofl Something doesn't look right or fit to my liking, it gets trashed hahah Maybe in the future if I still have this car I'll turn it around and restore it to new, but in the interm, I don't see myself doesn't much to it..

SprCpe
10-30-2006, 08:04 PM
James,
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This would be a very similar car to my 89 that was out at dyno days a couple weeks ago.
It also has the same engine “basically” it’s a 3.3 mine is a 3.5 you saw how it did with the automatic. The fan “if it is the fan” is a easy fix, the windows could well be just a switch easy test, I had to replace two om mine. Let me know if I can help you out. :) It sounds like the car is not here in town? I absolutely love my 6 but I won't be driving it in the winter though just a little to low. For the most part my past experience has been BMW's will do fine with a good set of snows on all four courners.

<o:p></o:p>
John Cooper (Coop)

tsjazz2002
10-30-2006, 09:47 PM
Just keep in mind that although you have plans to make this a daily driver maintenance will cost you far more than your original investment. These cars are great cars will beautiful lines but we are talking about a 20 year old car. Be prepared for just about anything.

Ol'6erGuy
11-02-2006, 01:19 AM
So, what's the deal? You gonna get it?

jrhaile
11-02-2006, 12:49 PM
I pick it up Saturday. My buddy checked it out from head to toe and he said not ONE sign of rust anywhere even in the areas you advises I check Bill. This was a CA car all it's life up until about 2 months ago. Everything the guy said about the car was correct except the brakes up front seem a bit warped which I'm not concerned about right now. He said there is a slight shimmy when getting on the brakes at low speeds. Also he said there is a small Exhaust leak near the muffler which again I will have fixed no problem.

Ol'6erGuy
11-02-2006, 09:59 PM
Eh, minor crap. You know that you stole it. Do you think you can stop by? If not, I might have to blow the carbon out of Kev's M3 and meet you in Ellensburg.

jbd5015
11-02-2006, 10:01 PM
ah thats right, ur son is at school so he had to leave his car at home?? probably is fun to take that out every once in a while to make sure its still running you know?

-Jeff

jrhaile
11-02-2006, 10:02 PM
Eh, minor crap. You know that you stole it. Do you think you can stop by? If not, I might have to blow the carbon out of Kev's M3 and meet you in Ellensburg.

Hey if you want to meet me in Ellensburgh that's fine by me :) Assuming I make it through the pass. I don't think I'd be able to find your place again :rofl I did get lost leaving it last time hahaha...

Ol'6erGuy
11-03-2006, 12:36 AM
We can play it by ear. Also, he has my pickup so he can't say too much. hahaha.