Does anyone have any that I can have or buy? Or is there a place that sells it that's open til like 8 or 9 on a saturday?

Thanks

go better, get some Motul or Prospeed GS610 ;)

Does anyone have any that I can have or buy? Or is there a place that sells it that's open til like 8 or 9 on a saturday?

Thanks
og racing in ashburn. www.ogracing.com

go better, get some Motul or Prospeed GS610 ;)

+1, motul ftw.

+1, motul ftw.

For a street car, Castrol GT4 or whatever it's called. Or ATE Type 200. SuperBlue stains everything blue, forever. No reason to spend 3x as much on Motul or GS610. You will not notice any difference.

But if you insist on either one of those, www.brakeswap.com FTW :alright

www.ogracing.com for ATE

Oh, and for immediate need, drive to DC and I'll sell you some Motul at $15 a bottle. :devillook

For a street car, Castrol GT4 or whatever it's called. Or ATE Type 200. SuperBlue stains everything blue, forever. No reason to spend 3x as much on Motul or GS610. You will not notice any difference.

But if you insist on either one of those, www.brakeswap.com FTW :alright

www.ogracing.com for ATE

Oh, and for immediate need, drive to DC and I'll sell you some Motul at $15 a bottle. :devillook
i dont think motul is 3x as much as ATE.

the norm pricing i have seen for ATE is $10-12/bottle where Motul RBF-600 is $15/bottle.

i run the RBF600 and it works great. i doubt it makes that much more of a difference, but i like the higher dry/wet boiling points of motul as well :)

i dont think motul is 3x as much as ATE.

the norm pricing i have seen for ATE is $10-12/bottle where Motul RBF-600 is $15/bottle.

i run the RBF600 and it works great. i doubt it makes that much more of a difference, but i like the higher dry/wet boiling points of motul as well :)


yes, but the ATE comes in 1L jugs, where Motul/GS610 comes in 1/2L. so, let's do the math, shall we?

1L ATE = $10
1L RBF = $30

:stickoutt

the boiling points only matter in your head on a street car.

Also, someone once told me Motul is more hydroscopic, which doesn't effect a track car since you perform frequent fluid changes. On a street car, once the fluid absorbs water, your "wet boiling point" is probably lower vs dry boiling point of Castrol or comparable fluid. I do not know if it's true.

Heck, let's all run Castrol SRF ($60+/L) :eek: :eek:

ah.......it's been a couple of months since i put in the rbf600 so i forgot how small each container is.... :banghead:

Yep, it's a huge waste of money to use any of these high dollar fluids in a street car. Buy some regular ole' Castrol GT4 LMA and flush it every year.

the boiling points only matter in your head on a street car.


Yep, it's a huge waste of money to use any of these high dollar fluids in a street car.

You guys are dumb. You need these overkill products for a street car. Especially when you canyon race yo' whip and late brake into blind sweepers around a hill or trail brake into traffic.

Yep, it's a huge waste of money to use any of these high dollar fluids in a street car. Buy some regular ole' Castrol GT4 LMA and flush it every year.
is it a waste if i track my street car :dunno:
You guys are dumb. You need these overkill products for a street car. Especially when you canyon race yo' whip and late brake into blind sweepers around a hill or trail brake into traffic.
so should i get an 18" BBK??

Yep, it's a huge waste of money to use any of these high dollar fluids in a street car.

Just because you don't care about your car doesn't mean the rest of us do too.:rolleyes

...........

Heck, let's all run Castrol SRF ($60+/L) :eek: :eek:

Anyway, tell me more about this fluid. Will it resolve my issue of fading my brades on my way to work each morning?:confused

is it a waste if i track my street car :dunno:

I know you're probably kidding around, but if you track your BMW (many of which have bigtime issues with brakes overheating at the track) then it's probably worth it to spend some extra money getting better-than-average brake fluid. The most important thing is to keep it dry which means flush it regularly!

I'd rather have fresh GT4 LMA than year-old Super Blue.

ATE Blue and Type 200 are the same fluids...either is fine on a street or race car (or track car whichever) ...it's an excellent fluid for the money. Kuper is right, the ATE blue will stain everything blue for sure...perhaps you should try the type 200...CDOC.com is a great place to buy it:)

ATE Blue and Type 200 are the same fluids...either is fine on a street or race car (or track car whichever) ...it's an excellent fluid for the money. Kuper is right, the ATE blue will stain everything blue for sure...perhaps you should try the type 200...CDOC.com is a great place to buy it:)

I think a lot of people buy both so they can alternate colors during fluid changes to see when the old fluid has been flushed out. The problem is that it never really changes color from blue, no matter what color you use.

I think a lot of people buy both so they can alternate colors during fluid changes to see when the old fluid has been flushed out. The problem is that it never really changes color from blue, no matter what color you use.

absoletely true...that alternating stuff doesn't work well for the fact that the color never truely changes...I'd just bleed and flush regularly for best results...

and if you want to switch to another fluid I'd say use a cheap fluid and run a gallon through the system, then put the new fluid in...i.e AP Racing, GS610, Castrol SRF etc...

I know you're probably kidding around, but if you track your BMW (many of which have bigtime issues with brakes overheating at the track) then it's probably worth it to spend some extra money getting better-than-average brake fluid. The most important thing is to keep it dry which means flush it regularly!

I'd rather have fresh GT4 LMA than year-old Super Blue.
last time around, i used some valvoline brake fluid for jefferson circuit @ summit and at the end of the day, i definitely had fluid fade.......and that was just the tiny jefferson circuit.

after that event, i put in some RBF-600 and i'm sure that will be plenty good for VIR. but we'll see if my pads can hold up :devillook

i definitely had fluid fade.......and that was just the tiny jefferson circuit.
jefferson is actually tough on brakes. Not enough time between braking zones to let the brakes cool down.

jefferson is actually tough on brakes. Not enough time between braking zones to let the brakes cool down.

Very true.

werd......

i was thinking the front & back straight would provide decent cooling, but i guess not.


how hard is shenandoah & summit main on brakes?

last time around, i used some valvoline brake fluid for jefferson circuit @ summit and at the end of the day, i definitely had fluid fade.......and that was just the tiny jefferson circuit.

after that event, i put in some RBF-600 and i'm sure that will be plenty good for VIR. but we'll see if my pads can hold up :devillook


What pads? I am thinking of taping up my brake ducts for November event.

PBR delux economy :rofl

they held up pretty well @ jefferson and they still have tons of life left.

ATE Blue and Type 200 are the same fluids...either is fine on a street or race car (or track car whichever) ...it's an excellent fluid for the money. Kuper is right, the ATE blue will stain everything blue for sure...perhaps you should try the type 200...CDOC.com is a great place to buy it:)


i must get the "special" ate blue where ever i buy it. been exclusively using it for years in multiple street/race cars.....never had anything stained by it, including the fluid resevoirs.

i keep hearing stories of stained resevoirs, but have yet to actually see one.

werd......

i was thinking the front & back straight would provide decent cooling, but i guess not.


how hard is shenandoah & summit main on brakes?

Ask Nick about Summit Main...errr, ask Sunir I meant (sorry Sunir, I couldn't resist :D Don't get worked up about it ;) )

You need them to be there in T1 and T5. And there's not that much time to cool them between 1 and 5. Good thing about 5 is you can go straight off in the grass and hopefully stop before reaching the other side. In T1 there's gravel, trees, concrete, skidpad...

Never been on 'doah.

I think a lot of people buy both so they can alternate colors during fluid changes to see when the old fluid has been flushed out. The problem is that it never really changes color from blue, no matter what color you use.

it actually does change color completely if you use a turkey baster to drain the resevoir of one color before you start flushing with the other. btdt, it works.

it actually does change color completely if you use a turkey baster to drain the resevoir of one color before you start flushing with the other. btdt, it works.

Never worked for me :dunno Maybe you do get some fancy ATE fluid :D

Ask Nick about Summit Main...errr, ask Sunir I meant (sorry Sunir, I couldn't resist :D Don't get worked up about it ;) )

You need them to be there in T1 and T5. And there's not that much time to cool them between 1 and 5. Good thing about 5 is you can go straight off in the grass and hopefully stop before reaching the other side. In T1 there's gravel, trees, concrete, skidpad...

Never been on 'doah.

lol:) good 'ole Rubenstien threshold breaking like shumi:alright

Marshall man, I've had the same results with the Super blue stianing as Kupe has had...thinking of maybe trying a new fluid next year...

Never worked for me :dunno Maybe you do get some fancy ATE fluid :D

that's ok.. Kuper now uses the Brakeswap sponsored Prospeed stuff ;)

that's ok.. Kuper now uses the Brakeswap sponsored Prospeed stuff ;)

That's right, I be SPONSORED :eek: :eek: :eek: :D