Thomas got me in for an oil change today and took some time to do a little inspection while the car was on the lift. Thanks very much- didn't think I could get that kind of service for $50 around these parts :)

-1 :D


Jp +2!!!

50 bucks for a oil change???

Don't get me wrong though, the people at autofab are great, and do good work.

well compared to $100+ at a dealer I'm happy. but, there are inevitably going to be people whose mission it is to tell me that I overpaid. whatever - just passing along a good experience.

Sweet! You won't have to drive as far if you call me next time though.

Sweet! You won't have to drive as far if you call me next time though.

more details please--

We simply hide out in the corner of the parking garage at my apartment (less than a mile from Emory) and I remove your oil filter and oil pan bolt. We then let the oil proceed to drain for about 15 mins and then torque the oil bolt to 25 NM and then replace the oil filer and install new seals and o-rings. Simple. :D

EDIT: That is a killer run-on sentence!

^^^ hahahhaha

We simply hide out in the corner of the parking garage at my apartment (less than a mile from Emory) and I remove your oil filter and oil pan bolt. We then let the oil proceed to drain for about 15 mins and then torque the oil bolt to 25 NM and then replace the oil filer and install new seals and o-rings. Simple. :D

EDIT: That is a killer run-on sentence!

then let me drive away with no oil in my engine! :alright

then let me drive away with no oil in my engine! :alright

I always forget that part. :lol

I was waiting for someone to pick up on that. :D

Badass. I learned something new today.

Badass. I learned something new today.

Cutting it close for the cliche. :D

so where is this autofab that you speak of?
i 've heard them mentioned here and there...might just go check them out and have them look over some stuff.

on a side note: jesse you think i can enlist your help again?

Considering that sythetic oil will cost about $25 for 6+ quarts. $25 for putting a car on a lift and the labor involved isn't a ripoff.

I live like ten minutes from there and still haven't gone. DAMN!!!

Considering that sythetic oil will cost about $25 for 6+ quarts. $25 for putting a car on a lift and the labor involved isn't a ripoff.

New filter and seals too.

Did you get my PM?

Considering that sythetic oil will cost about $25 for 6+ quarts. $25 for putting a car on a lift and the labor involved isn't a ripoff.

E36 m3 arent designed to run off synthetic motor oil... so the autofab oil change would have been for Castrol GTX 20-50.

E36 m3 arent designed to run off synthetic motor oil... so the autofab oil change would have been for Castrol GTX 20-50.

15-40 for the winter :dunno

winter?

We are in Georgia... Just let the car warm up a bit in the morning, you should be doing that anyways. Put in 20-50 and tell me the car does not run quieter and run smoother.

In chicago I ran 15-40 in summer, here in georgia 20-50 year round.

http://maps.google.com/?q=3690+Burnett+Park+Dr+NW,+Suwanee,+GA+30024&ie=UTF8&om=1&z=15&iwloc=addr

Didn't notice any change in running quietness or smoothness, but, I wasn't expecting to either.

what were u running before?

Sythetic 10w-30 Mobil1. My car's done fine. While BMW may like using those mixes, my car prefers oil that can withstand 260+degrees.

New filter and seals too.

Did you get my PM?

Yeah, just got it. I will see if she's around tomorrow morning to let me in.

Sweet!

Sythetic 10w-30 Mobil1. My car's done fine. While BMW may like using those mixes, my car prefers oil that can withstand 260+degrees.

Come on now man, WAYYYYYYYYYY too thin

With BG MOA my castrol can stand 260+ too...

So no advantage for running your thinner oil :)

Some people don't hear the noises or they read it on bimmerforums that it is "normal"

Come on now man, WAYYYYYYYYYY too thin

With BG MOA my castrol can stand 260+ too...

So no advantage for running your thinner oil :)

Some people don't hear the noises or they read it on bimmerforums that it is "normal"


i duno man. im still running straight 30 weight oil fom thje break in period.. andi havent burned a drop and i have been runnin the motor hard.

just picked up 4 boxes of valvoline 10w-30 synthetic.. im going to run that and test it out.. it was free lol

but i feel pretty good about my motor with straight autozone brand 30 weight oil and it hasnt even burned any yet lol

Come on now man, WAYYYYYYYYYY too thin

With BG MOA my castrol can stand 260+ too...

So no advantage for running your thinner oil :)

Some people don't hear the noises or they read it on bimmerforums that it is "normal"

I don't notice any valve tick. Car runs very quiet. No reason I can't try a thicker oil, and I might do that. But the oil I currently use does great.

20W-50 forever. Use it in the M30, M5X, S5X... use it for cooking or general house maintenance.

Even the S62 is supposed to use regular 25W-70

Synthetic is a hoax

20W-50 forever. Use it in the M30, M5X, S5X... use it for cooking or general house maintenance.

Even the S62 is supposed to use regular 25W-70

Synthetic is a hoax

:thumbup:

Also, if anyone wants to know, you can go from synthetic back to regular oil. People tell you otherwise, so you get stuck paying for the expensive stuff. Most regular oil can handle what synthetic can now anyway, so why run synthetic? I have been stuck on mixing 5qt 10w40 Castrol GTX and 2qt 20w50 Castrol GTX for some time now. It got rid of my vanos ticking and the engine runs a lot smoother now.

Best thing you can do is 1Qt Lucas Oil Stabilizer + 5(+/-)Qts 20-50.
Supa thick.

The one time I did run Synthetic in an M30, it wanted to kill me.

You guys are crazy.

You guys are crazy.

Crazy?

Synthetic is a hoax

Crazy.

Crazy.

Mad Crazy!

winter?

We are in Georgia... Just let the car warm up a bit in the morning, you should be doing that anyways. Put in 20-50 and tell me the car does not run quieter and run smoother.


+1 When it starts getting below 30F on a regular basis, I do top off with Castrol 10W-40 when it occassionally gets low after running it hard.

Mad Crazy!

THE ONLY THING CRAZY IN HERE ARE THESE USED CAR DEALS!!!

GET 'EM BEFORE THEY'RE GONE!!!

for you 20w-50 guys, try Castrol Diesal 15-40 this season.

i was using 20w-50 in my miata and decided to try 10w-30 synthetic and i like it a lot better.

with 20w-50 i got lots of lifter tapping while autoxing, but didn't have that with the 10w-30, it tapped between i think my 3rd and 4th runs but then stopped during the run and didn't tap after that.

i was using 20w-50 in my miata and decided to try 10w-30 synthetic and i like it a lot better.

with 20w-50 i got lots of lifter tapping while autoxing, but didn't have that with the 10w-30, it tapped between i think my 3rd and 4th runs but then stopped during the run and didn't tap after that.

.

mk. oil is still oil, bmws have lifter tap too. just posting my experiences.

20w-50 seemed too think for my S52.

0w-40 seems just right.

The going back and forth thing was with older cars like, say, a 944 Turbo which had only seen dino oil all its life and at 100k miles the owner switched to a synth and it seal leaked like crazy.

20w-50 seemed too think for my S52.

0w-40 seems just right.

The going back and forth thing was with older cars like, say, a 944 Turbo which had only seen dino oil all its life and at 100k miles the owner switched to a synth and it seal leaked like crazy.

0W-40 is too thin. How hard have you run your car, have you tracked it before, or done mountain runs, etc., anythign with continuous hard driving? Does your enigne tick louder when your done? The oil man. Castrol 20W-50 with BG MOA as Halston suggests for summer, or if your paranoid, Shell Rotella T 15W-40 for the winter time. Rotella is highly reguarded as one of, if not THE best mineral oil made. After I change my oil again with the extra half case of 20W-50 I have and some ATF for cleaning purposes in my car since the engine sat for over a year, I'll be switching to Rotella for the winter time.

E36 m3 arent designed to run off synthetic motor oil... so the autofab oil change would have been for Castrol GTX 20-50.
Synthetic is just like dino oil... but not... it's much better. Better heat handling capability mostly. There is no "designed for synthetic". There is "designed for a given thickness".


Come on now man, WAYYYYYYYYYY too thin

With BG MOA my castrol can stand 260+ too...

So no advantage for running your thinner oil :)

Some people don't hear the noises or they read it on bimmerforums that it is "normal"
eh, conventional oil at 260+ is getting mighty sketchy.

As for the lifter tick noises, it is normal... if you actually generate some decent lateral acceleration. If the car mostly goes slow, then no, ticking isn't normal. Fast with an unbaffled pan and no accusump or any such devices, it'll tick. even overfilled.

Synthetic is just like dino oil... but not... it's much better. Better heat handling capability mostly. There is no "designed for synthetic". There is "designed for a given thickness".



eh, conventional oil at 260+ is getting mighty sketchy.

As for the lifter tick noises, it is normal... if you actually generate some decent lateral acceleration. If the car mostly goes slow, then no, ticking isn't normal. Fast with an unbaffled pan and no accusump or any such devices, it'll tick. even overfilled.


Miceal, from what I've read/observed, the bad lifter tick seems to be from 2 main causes. A: Heat. and B: too thin of oil, leading to lifters not being able to keep fluid in preoperly. Sorry, I haven't really inspected a BMW lifter, I'm going by my little knowledge of small block chevy lifters. From what I've seen, over time with a light oil used such as a 0W-40, the lifter tick gets more and more pronounced, until the lifters need to be replaced. Would a thicker oil heat up as much as a thiner oil, or doens't really matter in these cases?

And the deal with synthetics, how do synthetic oils work with timing chain tensioner seals and the lifters? I've read dozens of posts about synthetic oil users having problems with timing chain tensions bleeding oil pressure due to synthetic oil in S38's. Switching to a heavy weight dyno oil was the cure each and every time. Your thoughts?

+1
20w-50.
The only way to go...