to install a new main rob bearing>?..well ur in the right place..after spinning a bearing slightly and hearing a slight knock ive decided 2 redo the bearing until my rebuild..well im literally about 2 go outside and get it ready for the weekend(when i get the new bearings) so pretty much heres the process and checklist..im gona do it quick so correct me if im wrong.,.


1) find cylinder noise. :thumbup: (check)

2)Get the hood off: (in the process)

3) get the car on "drive ups"(i cant use a jack 4 this 1)

4) drain the oil

5)Unscrew oil pan

(5b) try and take oil pan out from under car.

(5b-a) hopefully oil pan will slide out as motor sits

(5b-b) If not i have to disconnect motor mounts and life motor and
menouver it out)

6) disconnect the lower part of main rod(lower bearing)

7) Hand crank motor until crank is low enough to pull main rod down

8) replace upper bearings on main rod

9) replace lower bearings on main rod

10) terry cloth the crank where the main rod sits to ensure that it wont be
too scratched or over spun

11) reconnect main rod 2 crank.

12) crank manually again.

13) put that oil pan back on with new gasket (and maybe put a new oil pump)

14) fill her up with some GTX high mileage 10w40(New Yorks gettin chilly)

15) hopefully no more noise hahaha

16) her hoods gotta go back on and were ready 2 roll.




now correct anything if im wrong but yea. pretty simple..but time consuming!>


ok and away we go!..ill keep pic updates!

Main and rod bearings are different and have to be replaced in a different manner. If you spun a rod bearing you are pretty close other than remembering to lube the bearing after you snap it in the rod and rod cap.

If it was run for more than a minute or two once the bearing spun it likely trashed the crank and spun bearings often fill the oil system with metal debris. How do I know this? I've spun bearings a couple times in Pontiac v8's.

ken

terry cloth the crank where the main rod sits? what for exactly?

like kdanielson said, you are very confused, you have main bearings that hold the crankshaft in place.

http://www.rd-motorsport.net/images/stories/main.jpg

http://www.rd-motorsport.net/images/stories/main2.jpg

http://www.rd-motorsport.net/images/stories/main3.jpg

And rod bearings which hold the rods and pistons to the crank.

http://www.rd-motorsport.net/images/stories/rod2.jpg

http://www.rd-motorsport.net/images/stories/rod3.jpg

As said, you arent far off if you want to replace a rod bearing, only you need to make sure you lube up the bearing shells before refitting.

rod bearing it is. idk why i was confusing everyone i wrote it all messed up i havent slept in 2 weeks my best friend passed away in a street racing crash and im so shot. sorry for the mistakes..u guys will get some pictures..i started it today and should be finished tomo9rrow..PS OIL PANS SUCK!!

sorry to hear about your friend. thats horible. get some sleep man i know all you probly want to do is get you mind off things but try and get some sleep that way when you work on the car you can give it all your atention.not to sure about just puting in new bearings it would probly make it better or work for a bit. but usaully when rod knock ocurs the crankshaft gets grooves and can sometimes get pited a bit. so it would be safest to take out the crank and take it to a machine shop it along with the rods should be resurfaced/machined then oversized bearings used in place of stock. i know its a lot more than you probly want,but it is the right way. i have personaly had rod knock 3 times with m10 engine,spun a rod bearing once. to do a whole bottom end rebuild with stock parts and machine work its roughly 1,000 dollers.:buttrock well good luck with what you do decide to do.


p.s. if you dont want rod knock again. GET YOUR OIL PAN BAFFLED AND A CRANCKSCRAPER. DO IT. I CAN NOT MAKE A BETTER EASY 110 DOLLER SUGESTION THAT CAN MAKE OR BREAK AN M10

that wont really make any difference to rod knock when its probably a wear issue.

Unless it's worn due to oil starvation on high speed left turns... :dunno

how many k's on your engine? ;)

oil starvation at highspeed turs FOR THE WIN!!wait for the loss:( . its probly the main week point of the m10 durring hard turns to the right"like every exit and onramp" the oil climbs the wall of the engine when this happens the oil pump is not able to suck as much and also sometime will gulp air,all BAD things. the crank scraper keeeps oil from climbing the wall and some have 2 baffled one way doors to keep that from happening also i believe racetep has a weld in baffle for like 50 bones. the baffle keeps it from climbing as well keeps the oil right where you want it. its a very basic design and you can make one yourself. if you seriously want some aded insurance that this wont happen again,and believe me it can. pay the like 120 it will cost for both parts. it is worth it.:buttrock

Another trick is to add an oil restrictor in the block wich will keep more oil in the pan.

well forget that whole deal..i replaced the bearing and it stayed awsome for an hour then it knocked the crank was too worn..(even though there wasnt much wear on anything but the old bearings..but obviouslly worn bearings mean worn crank but it was a cheap attempt..so...350bux later ill have my new(old) motor in by problly thursday or friday i gotta go pick it up tomorrow..PS..its an 83 m10. i have an 81 m10..arent the 83s different? i would need to know cause im pulling my motor and tranny in a few minutes. (i gotta change the clutch anyways, so yea..all i really gotta do is disconnect any body plante4d lines and wires off the block and the rado hose and the knuckle for the driveshaft annd the motor mounts (obviouslly) my strut bar, andddddd..................the tranny x member? correct?



heres a pic from the weekend (from replacing the bearings)


http://i12.tinypic.com/2rgc0aw.jpg


my best friends little brother from up the block. haha funny little rat. haha