I'm planning on doing the front brakes sooner rather than later. I've ordered a few items based on price and quality, (quality being relative to how much I want to spend. I'm looking for info based on what I got and any opinions on doing front brakes and what to look for. Is it required to replace the brake rotor hold down bolt? Anyway here is a list of what I have compiled and prices including shipping if anyone cares.

PELICAN PARTS

Brembo rotors $108
Super blue ATE fluid $14
Brake pad sensors $22
shipping FREE
TOTAL $144

Tire Rack

G2 Brake Caliper Paint Silver $38
shipping $10
TOTAL $48

Bimmerworld

Stainless Steel Brake Lines $90
shipping $12
TOTAL $102

Metal-Lux brake pads FREE (got from buddy who sold his bimmer)

GRAND TOTAL $294:alright

Let me know what you think, as I'm sure some of you will.

ps. don't let me down Silverbeam, cuzz I know you always have something to say.

You've got everything that is normally needed for a full brake job. The brake rotor screws don't need to be replaced unless you damage them while trying to get them out. A shot of PBlaster or Kroil a day or two before you do the brakes will help loosen those up.

I'm not a fan of ATE Super Blue since it will stain your fluid reservoir and make level checks difficult. ATE Type 200 is the same fluid sans dye.

I can tell from the paint that you will be pulling the calipers and having them off the car for a while. Be sure that you plug the ends of the hard lines so that the fluid won't drain out. If all the fluid drains out you'll wind up with air in the system before the ABS unit. That pretty much means a visit to a dealer to use their diag system to place the ABS unit in bleed mode to get that air out.

Along those lines, a pressure bleeder goes a long way towards making the flush/bleed job easier and it pretty well eliminates any chance of air getting into the system.

Thanks, that's good info, I have a vaccum pump already that should work well. Do you have any suggestions on plugging the lines. In the past I took some tubing and closed it off with a zip tie.

I have some tygon tubing that's a good fit over the flare at the end of the hard line. I heat sealed one end shut. Works like a champ. You could achieve the same results by folding one end of a piece of tubing over and using a zip tie, wire, or tape to hold it bent over.