I went to <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" /><st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Saint Louis</st1:place></st1:City> this weekend to run in the Mid-West Divisional SCCA autox. My car is a B stock m3 4 door with a set of v710’s, 32 mm front sway bar, koni adjustable.
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My car comes off of the line and into the 1<SUP>st</SUP> set of turns (less than 30 mph and already short shifted into 2<SUP>nd</SUP>) coasting throw them to let the car turn. I add throttle, the rpm’s go up but I don’t go anywhere. Something finally locks up and the car starts getting the power from the rpm’s that have gone up to the tires (the tires are not spinning, they just rolling with the car momentum .
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This problem persists all day in every turn. In a straight line no problem. Through in a turn and the car in a bind and a big delay in getting power to the wheels. A year ago the car would have just pushed/understeered. This weekend it jsut set there.
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76,000 miles on the original oem clutch. Is it the clutch, which I am replacing it and I have gut feeling it is, as soon as, the part comes in. Is it the rear diff? Any other ideas?

You sure the rpms going up, to me looks like 2 things if the RPMs doesn't go up most likely ASC, or if you don't have ur CDV removed could cost that what u expirecing

You sure the rpms going up, to me looks like 2 things if the RPMs doesn't go up most likely ASC, or if you don't have ur CDV removed could cost that what u expirecing

acs is turned off. The car has not had anything like this go on until the last 3 autox. The car has about 20 events under its belt. About 12 of them in with a race setup (tires, shocks, sway...)

then yes, your clutch is slipping most likely

then yes, your clutch is slipping most likely

OUCH. What does it cost to get a clutch installed on a BMW? Well, Clutch installation and purchase amount estimates separatly would be better I guess. I just remember that my Mustang used to shred clutches for some reason (I think it turned out to be a bad clutch cable which was binding and not allowing the clutch to fully disengage--pedal out. Dumb problem, right? :( I pointed that possibility out to my mechanics and they told me the cable was fine---It made creeky sounds).

tnc performance half ass sponsors the car car, so about 200 bucks plus the clutch (oem) and slave (230 bucks shipped from another forum member), so about 430. I may do it myself, so just parts.

For those of you that have changed a clutch, I wondering what the flywheel will like. Anyone resurfaced a oem flywheel?

I would consider putting in a light weight fly will if the oem is toast but that would move the car out of stock. Don't think I have the money to build a stu, bsp type car.

If the flywheel and clutch slipped a lot while you were Racing, you might want to check the flywheel out pretty well. Even with a resurfacing, if there are any cracks in it (even the tiniest ones) they can turn into fissures and ruin a brand new clutch!!!! :mad :mad :mad :mad

You can probably see that I've been there-done that (Mustang). When the clutch is slipping, it is generating a lot of heat which is bad for both it, and the flywheel. Excessive heat = bad. Just like brakes, actually.

So, get the flywheel checked out by a qualified, trusty mechanic and replace it if there is any doubt as to its condition. Better now than later (and later with a new clutch).

thanks

uhmm this sound dumb but why doesn't the clutch slip in a straight line and only when you are turning?

good question, best I can think is, there is a lot more load on the car in turns at a autox. Playing around on street tires I can't reproduce the problem.

uhmm this sound dumb but why doesn't the clutch slip in a straight line and only when you are turning?

Hehe. Yeah, I had to think about that to, but I decided not to even bring it up. It was too confusing.