...did you sound proofthe whole area, or just sections of each area?
I want to soundproof my firewall soon, and was wondering if the whole thing should be firewalled, or if I can get away with just putting it on parts of it.
Also, what have you fireproofed and what gave you the most noticable different in road noise/music clarity...
I want to do the firewall, hood, doors, roof, trunk and floors. Does any of it sound like wasted weight, or should there be more, like fenders or something.
Let me know what you guys think.
I ran across a bunch of free dynamat, that's why I'm asking...

I was installing carpet when I did mine.
I used it on the inside of the car, and used it on the floor also as I had to pull the factory suff up to do preventive rustproofing and replace the 4 large plugs in the floor.

I used it around the areas that were modifyed at the front speakers becouse I have 4" in the front, and then the rear deck to help the improved sound system in the rear.

I used large sheets at the doors and installed it like a mouisture barrier. That was a huge improvment and the sound of the doors closing is much improved.

I think the fenders might be overkill, And there is better stuff to use on the hood, The butal on the back of sound insulation gets a bit weird from the heat in the engine compartment.

Good like with the project.
Jeff

Did mine on the floor up the firewall and rear seat as well as the wall between the passenger cell and the boot/trunk, quarterpanels, doors. Also fully lined the boot floor, incl. the tyre well, bootlid and sides.

Tighter sounds generally. U keep more of the sound in the car.

Also have pu foam in my side sills and b pillar (http://www.autofoam.com.my). (similar to foamseal.com stuff). Main purpose of pu foam in chassis is for stiffening but has side benefit of cutting road noise and wind noise.

Stuff I used was from Wurth - which comes in two types - the silver backed ones are marginally better. The all black ones are pretty good too.

Thanks guys. I was read the site about the chassis stiffining foam, that's so smart! I've never heard of that.
Along with the free dynamat, I got some spray sound deadening stuff. Looks like it'll probably be something along the lines of a truck bed liner when it's sprayed. Anyone ever used that stuff? Is the liquid stuff any good compared to the rolls that stick on?

I used a product from Quiet Ride Solutions in two Bimmers I have restored and have been extremely impressed. The first time I just bought the material and did it myself. The second time I worked with the owner of Quiet Ride (Tim) and had him produce a kit specifically for the E21. This was MUCH easier and equally effective. I drive my cars for enjoyment - not on a track - so I am not overly concerned with the weight ... though once I removed the original material I don't think I added any weight. I have restored several muscle cars as well. Was never satisfied with the spray / brush on products and Dynomat adds significant weight. Below are a couple of links to the Quiet Ride products. Just my two cents.

http://www.quietride.com/index.html

http://www.quietride.com/acoustishield/auto-acoustics-101.htm

http://www.quietride.com/acoustishield/pre-cut/pct_exotic_7783_320i.html

Thanks guys. I was read the site about the chassis stiffining foam, that's so smart! I've never heard of that.
Along with the free dynamat, I got some spray sound deadening stuff. Looks like it'll probably be something along the lines of a truck bed liner when it's sprayed. Anyone ever used that stuff? Is the liquid stuff any good compared to the rolls that stick on?

The spray on stuff would be mainly used for protecting the undercarriage from stone chips, etc. The soundproofing is a byproduct or secondary benefit.

Make sure you check for rust under the car before spraying on the stuff. Make sure that it is the type that dries to a hard finish. Wurth does some good stuff. I suppose truck bed liners are pretty tough too.

Performance wise - as a sound deadener, I believe the stick-on stuff is better as it gives a consistent layer. Just make sure that the surface is as clean and smooth as you can get it. It is most effective when the material is in full contact with the surface. You can use a hot air gun to soften the material and allow it to stretch a little to go into the nooks and crannies.

Although I have added sound and heat insulation, my car isn't on the road yet. Also, since I haven't driven it without the insulation either, I can't say what the difference is... so why the hell am I even replying???? :confused

Ah, now I remember... see post #17: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=544481

Good luck!

Although I have added sound and heat insulation, my car isn't on the road yet. Also, since I haven't driven it without the insulation either, I can't say what the difference is... so why the hell am I even replying???? :confused

Ah, now I remember... see post #17: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=544481

Good luck!

That was a good write up, thanks for the finger point in the right direction.