i pulled the head off yesterday in preperation for putting my turbo on. everything went pretty smoothly using the bentley manual, pelican parts diy's and hellrot325's excellent writeup on head gasket replacement. with the head off the cams came out very easily using pelican parts method (thanks for the help e36'n:) ). i managed to only break 1 radiator retaining clip, strip the vanos access bolts, and lose 2 headbolt washers in the process. i pulled 12 of 14 washers out and have no idea where the other 2 went:( hopefully they turn up or i can find some ones that will work at the hardware store.

here are some pics i took

http://www.blinkfile.com/1269/P8130001.JPG
http://www.blinkfile.com/1270/P8130003.JPG
cylinders 1 and 2
http://www.blinkfile.com/1271/P8140007.JPG
cylinders 3 and 4
http://www.blinkfile.com/1272/P8140008.JPG
cylinders 5 and 6
www.blinkfile.com/1273/P8140009.JPG
how do these look? i am not exactly sure what the pistons should look like after 130,000 km's (approx 80,000 miles)

what should i do to clean off the pistons?

i dropped the head off at the machine shop this morning to be decked, picked up some permatex copper spray, high temp copper sealant, and some jb weld, and i just have to go to the dealership to get my valvecover gasket, sparkplug gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets and studs, and vanos access bolts and i should be ready to put the head back on with the turbo manifold and turbo:)

Are you using ARP studs?

If yer using stock headbolts again, they must be replaced. Theyre torque to yield fasteners and are not reusable.

If you are using ARP studs......they come with washers. You dont reuse the stock ones.

Are you using ARP studs?

If yer using stock headbolts again, they must be replaced. Theyre torque to yield fasteners and are not reusable.

If you are using ARP studs......they come with washers. You dont reuse the stock ones.

yeah, i am using arp studs. that saves one trip out again:)

yeah, i am using arp studs. that saves one trip out again:)

Hahahah...yep. And make sure you lube the stud and nut threads well as well as the washer/nut mating surfaces. This will ensure a nice consistent torque.

good luck!

that pipe that is connected to your headers that connects to that thing that is used to emissions, what are u gonna do with that whne u put in the turbo manifold?

The holes get covered up by the new manifold.

that pipe that is connected to your headers that connects to that thing that is used to emissions, what are u gonna do with that whne u put in the turbo manifold?

do you mean the part circled in red?
http://www.blinkfile.com/1274/P8130003.JPG

i dont know what to do with it as it does not fit onto my turbo manifold. there is no emissions testing here so i just need to figure out what to remove so everything works in the end:) any suggestions

The holes get covered up by the new manifold.

but what do i do with everything that connects to it?

use a vacuum cap to plug the metal vacuum line that used to connect to the air injection valve. i removed the rest of the stuff that was connected to it.

but what do i do with everything that connects to it?
Pull it all out, cap the connection at the intake manifold, but you have to leave the control solonoid electrical connection under the manifold connected or else you'll get a CEL.

oh alright, i just noticed a group buy or a vendor selling the simulator for that secondary air pump so you wont get a cel.

oh alright, i just noticed a group buy or a vendor selling the simulator for that secondary air pump so you wont get a cel.

with the tec3 would i get cel's anyways?

No.

how do the pistons look? what do you guys recommend i do to clean them?

What's the JB weld for? Also when you lube the studs before you torque them use the lube ARP sends with the studs, you can't use too much. Why did you remove the cams? The bolts and or nuts can be removed without taking the cams out. Good luck with the build. ///J.T.///




nevermind I can't read DOH! (Why did you remove the cams? The bolts and or nuts can be removed without taking the cams out.)

So you have to remove the cams when you deck the head right?

Byron did you check with the machine shop to see what they recommend for cleaning the pistons and block?

What's the JB weld for? Also when you lube the studs before you torque them use the lube ARP sends with the studs, you can't use too much. Why did you remove the cams? The bolts and or nuts can be removed without taking the cams out. Good luck with the build. ///J.T.///




nevermind I can't read DOH! (Why did you remove the cams? The bolts and or nuts can be removed without taking the cams out.)

nothing to do with the head, just turbo stuff in general.

So you have to remove the cams when you deck the head right?

Byron did you check with the machine shop to see what they recommend for cleaning the pistons and block?


yeah, they said the cams needed to be removed so the valves will be shut

they recommended a steel brush and deisel fuel to clean the block and pistons

Steel brush hey? I hope that doesn't leave any steel particles on your block.

dremel + abrasive wheel = wonders
turn the engine over so that every piston sits flush with the head and go at it

just finished 2/3's of the block. the steel bit on the drill + deisel works great:)

the coolant that leaked into the chamber with my first headgasket blow steam cleaned my pistons to a shine :rofl

I might sound stupid guys, but turbo newbie here, i was wondering why is the head being taken off and relacing the HG???

P.S. also where can i get a turbo manifold, i have a 98 e36 m3, Thank You!

I might sound stupid guys, but turbo newbie here, i was wondering why is the head being taken off and relacing the HG???

P.S. also where can i get a turbo manifold, i have a 98 e36 m3, Thank You!

He's lowering the compression ratio via a thicker HG. Here's a FAQ thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=494924

How much HP are you aiming for?

i would say around 400hp....

i would say around 400hp....

you should check out www.techniquetuning.com

some more progress today:)

finished cleaningthe head, put the cams back in, mounted the turbo and manifold to the head, sprayed my headgasket with copper spray, did one trial run to mount the head but the turbo needed to be repositioned. hopefully will get the head back on tommorow.

http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1277
http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1278
http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1279
http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1280
http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1281
i have some more that i will post when i get back from the gym

pics no workie mr. byron

Hey byron, the pictures don't work. Let me know if you need a hand, i still have to drop off your stuff$$:redspot if you have any questions on the emissions pump call me at work.

well at least the link works now. not sure why i could not get the pics to be displayed:rolleyes

here are some more pics

new motor mount installed
http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1282

head gasket before and after copper spray - fuck is that thing ever thick:eek:
http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1283
http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1284

yeah, if you guys want to come over sometime i will be working on it all day:)

Pistons/block looks 100x better and the head looks great as well. What finish did you get it machined to?

I remember Andreas saying that he sprays loctite glue between layers on the hg; have you thought about that? IIRC he mentioned that he has seen one of the layers "lift" and the glue helps that. Could be overkill though and I wouldn't know the proper method to spray it.

Sorry I didn't get back to you today, I was running all over town getting parts from everywhere. Car still isn't done but I could see it running tomorrow if everything goes smoothly. Got the 90 degree elbow welded on to the compressor housing and hopefully it fits over the subframe. If not...I'm fu$ked. Apex modified did it and did a great job. Also had my two leaky power steering lines fixed by Red L for under $50. Great deal considering they're something like $400 new for both.

Anyways, I'll be over for sure tomorrow as long as I get done.

getting that stuff between in the layers has gotta be a PITA. I was considering it, and you need to take off the rivets on the MLS HG to take off the layers, then rivet it and alight it properly....especially on a .140 thats difficult.

getting that stuff between in the layers has gotta be a PITA. I was considering it, and you need to take off the rivets on the MLS HG to take off the layers, then rivet it and alight it properly....especially on a .140 thats difficult.


yeah, dont think i will be doing that. seems like a lot of work and i am not going to be running huge boost anyways.

the head was given whatever finish is needed for a cometic headgasket. the shop said they had done tons of those before and knew what to do.

getting that stuff between in the layers has gotta be a PITA. I was considering it, and you need to take off the rivets on the MLS HG to take off the layers, then rivet it and alight it properly....especially on a .140 thats difficult.

Really...that kinda sucks. You can't just spray the ends that are open then I take it.

Damn that looks good!! Call me tomorrow and ill give you a hand with putting the head backl on

got the head with the turbo on back on the block today. need 5 people to easily lower everything onto the block. also tried to get a fitting to tap the oil supply off the oil pressure sending unit. no place in town seems to have exactly what i need so they have to put all kinds of bits together to make something that has the attachments i need. when i got home with that the fitting turned out to be too large to fit anyways:( is there a place online where i can by a fitting made for this purpose? i know someguys have also tapped into the vanos oil supply line with a bit from england. anybody have the link for that?

here are some more pics
http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1301

http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1302

http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1303

http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1304

everything looks like its coming together nicely:buttrock how many psi will you start out with? and whats the max you will turn it up?

keep up the good work!

everything looks like its coming together nicely:buttrock how many psi will you start out with? and whats the max you will turn it up?

keep up the good work!

i will start around 8 and then tune it for around 12-15

got the head with the turbo on back on the block today. need 5 people to easily lower everything onto the block. also tried to get a fitting to tap the oil supply off the oil pressure sending unit. no place in town seems to have exactly what i need so they have to put all kinds of bits together to make something that has the attachments i need. when i got home with that the fitting turned out to be too large to fit anyways:( is there a place online where i can by a fitting made for this purpose? i know someguys have also tapped into the vanos oil supply line with a bit from england. anybody have the link for that?

here are some more pics
http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1301

http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1302

http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1303

http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1304

Told ya you'd need a number of people to get that badboy on. We needed 3, but then again, I counted as 2 peeps ;)

got the head with the turbo on back on the block today. need 5 people to easily lower everything onto the block. also tried to get a fitting to tap the oil supply off the oil pressure sending unit. no place in town seems to have exactly what i need so they have to put all kinds of bits together to make something that has the attachments i need. when i got home with that the fitting turned out to be too large to fit anyways:( is there a place online where i can by a fitting made for this purpose? i know someguys have also tapped into the vanos oil supply line with a bit from england. anybody have the link for that?

here are some more pics
http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1301

http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1302

http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1303

http://www.blinkfile.com/view-1304



Hi in my s/c kit the oil feed is from the oil filter sensor to the s/c it is a great way to get your oil supply, on for you return line they use your dipstik tube so there is no need of tappin any holes, i will sttop by on tuesday after work, and you can take a look of the setup. see you tuesday.:buttrock

Hey man what are you going to use for mass air meter? can you run euro, 540, or dinan. i have a euro mass here at home . I was planning to use with my s/c but VF dosent have the proper software for it so i can't use it until warranty is over or sell it, i'll bring it on tuesday.:redspot

Hey man what are you going to use for mass air meter? can you run euro, 540, or dinan. i have a euro mass here at home . I was planning to use with my s/c but VF dosent have the proper software for it so i can't use it until warranty is over or sell it, i'll bring it on tuesday.:redspot

map sensor so i dont need a maf;)

Damn that set up looks nice man, alright guys here is a question. I am planning on running a GT35R on a stock motor, stock HG and everything stock, except of course the mani and all the other crap, i might get new injectors as well, but i was planning on pushing to about 8psi ( i have a 98 m3 ) now my question was, do i need to take out the engine to install the new motor mounts and the mani+turbo, i mean like i said im not planning on changing the HG just yet, but is taking out the engine necessery to bolt everything on or do you guys just do it because its a lot easier??? Thank You,
Stan

Damn that set up looks nice man, alright guys here is a question. I am planning on running a GT35R on a stock motor, stock HG and everything stock, except of course the mani and all the other crap, i might get new injectors as well, but i was planning on pushing to about 8psi ( i have a 98 m3 ) now my question was, do i need to take out the engine to install the new motor mounts and the mani+turbo, i mean like i said im not planning on changing the HG just yet, but is taking out the engine necessery to bolt everything on or do you guys just do it because its a lot easier??? Thank You,
Stan

to change the mount i just jacked up one side of the motor from the oil pan. i place a peice of wood beteen the jack and the pan which worked very well.

i put the manifold and turbo on the head while i was changing the headgasket so it was pretty easy for me. i think it would be next to impossible to get the manifold on the head while it is still on the car.

i am trying to figure out how i will make things work if i remove the cycline seperator. it looks to me as it collects oil from the intake manifold and crankcase vent then returns it to the tip stick. my understanding is that with my turbo setup i do not need the cyclone seperator. can i remove it without having any problems. if it helps i have the eurosport m50 manifold conversion kit.

Dang, I go on vacation for two weeks and byron finally gets his butt moving on this project. I'm missing all the action.

Dang, I go on vacation for two weeks and byron finally gets his butt moving on this project. I'm missing all the action.

;)

i am trying to figure out how i will make things work if i remove the cycline seperator. it looks to me as it collects oil from the intake manifold and crankcase vent then returns it to the tip stick. my understanding is that with my turbo setup i do not need the cyclone seperator. can i remove it without having any problems. if it helps i have the eurosport m50 manifold conversion kit.

Unless u know how to hook it up similar to the TT kit, you will need to plug up the drain from the dipstick and either get a catch can, or use the cyclone seperator as a glorified catch can.

-Rich

Looking good byron.. can't wait to see it on the road :buttrock

Looking good byron.. can't wait to see it on the road :buttrock

thanks, i cannot wait either.

today i did some running around getting ss fuel lines, had the stock fuel rail tapped for -6an fittings, and tapped the coolant lines. tommrow i should get my compressor housing back from the shop. i am having an elbow welded onto the outlet and having a mounting bracket for my intercooler made.

http://www.blinkfile.com/1331/P8220025.JPG

http://www.blinkfile.com/1332/P8220026.JPG

i also put back together the vanos unit and retimed everything. hopefully i got it all right:)

lookin good Byron.

Wow that looks awsome man. If you need a hand this week give me a call, I'll be off work everyday around 4

lookin good Byron.

thanks:) i am really happy the way the fuel rail turned out

Wow that looks awsome man. If you need a hand this week give me a call, I'll be off work everyday around 4

for sure:D you know where to find me.

me too byron. you know my #. holla if you need a hand:cool

just wondering about a few parts in the engine bay

can i completely remove the secondary air pump?
http://www.blinkfile.com/1333/P8220027.JPG
does it serve any purpose other than working ith that piece attached to the manifolds? will i be ok just pulling it all out cause of the tec3?

http://www.blinkfile.com/1334/P8220028.JPG
what is this and do i need it with the tec3?

http://www.blinkfile.com/1335/P8220029.JPG
these two vacuum lines plug into the manifold, do i need them with the tec3?
http://www.blinkfile.com/1336/P8220030.JPG

matt, one thing i need help with is wiring for the walbro. i have no idea about that stuff.

hey Byron,

must be great to be FI'ed...I'd like to take a look at your progress but your pics ain't working.

Looking good man.

Who tapped the fuel rail for you and did you pick up a piece for the oil feed yet?

I'm getting the downpipe modified and still can't believe that it didn't fit.

hey Byron,

must be great to be FI'ed...I'd like to take a look at your progress but your pics ain't working.

you have to click on the links. the only ones not working on the first couple. i just checked. are you in edmonton?

Looking good man.

Who tapped the fuel rail for you and did you pick up a piece for the oil feed yet?

I'm getting the downpipe modified and still can't believe that it didn't fit.

lol, yeah that is pretty shitty. you would think after all these times they would make sure it works.

bosh hydraulic did it. it was about $46 cdn for both supply and return. i also got a bunch of ss lines for my fuel supply, to the regulator, and the return. i eneded up getting too much in most cases but it is easier to get some chopped off and the fitting put back on than extending the hose.

hopefully tommroow i will get my ic bracket and compressor housing back and get started on the piping.

curt, is apex fixing your downpipe?

curt, is apex fixing your downpipe?

Nope, I brought it to Mufflercentre on Gateway Bvld. I didn't want to pay Apex $70 for 1/2 hr of work. Hopefully it's alright.

i got back yesterday the modified compressor housing with the 90 degree elbow on it and my ic mounting bracket using streubs design. i had to cut off the motor mount bushing so that the intake pipe will fit, and ran all the lines to the turbo

http://www.blinkfile.com/1344/P8230031.JPG
how do you guys route your lines to the turbo? i ran the oil supply around the head and then the coolant lines under the oil pan.

hopefully get the ic mounted up today and get my fpr hooked up. maybe if i have time i will install the oil scavenge pump.

got the intercooler mounted today

http://www.blinkfile.com/1385/P8290037.JPG

http://www.blinkfile.com/1386/P8290038.JPG

You're kicking some serious ass on this man.:buttrock

got some more done today. ordered a bunch of silicone couplers and vacuum hose from atp, hooked up all the fuel lines, put the manifold back on and began installing the injectors.

http://www.blinkfile.com/1390/P8300039.JPG

http://www.blinkfile.com/1391/P8300040.JPG

http://www.blinkfile.com/1392/P8300041.JPG

http://www.blinkfile.com/1393/P8300042.JPG