Hey guys,

I've had my E36 M3 for just 3 months now. I'm just now starting some maintenance on it. But I was hoping to get together with some of you to help me diagnose the "normalness" of my M3.

Right now, I'm fighting bogging while attempting to go WOT. I'll be cruising at 2500RPM, and then I'll floor it, and the car will hunker down, and become jerky before finally accelerating. It doesn't feel like a fuel/ignition hiccup. The powerband is actually quite smooth.

I replaced the VANOS solenoid this weekend, but it really feels like this car is missing something under 3500RPM.

Any personal help would be appreciated.

Paul

Relevant Info:
1995; 9/95 Build Date
O2 Sensor Replaced 4000 miles ago
Air Filter Replaced 4000 miles ago
VANOS Solenoid replaced yesterday.
Jim Conforti Chip installed 4000 miles ago
Everything is stock, save for the chip.
NO Check Engine Lights.
Haven't check fault codes.
very smooth idle.
I bought the car 3 months ago, haven't changed anything except for the belts and items listed above. I need to replace the valve cover gasket (oil in cylinder 1), spark plugs, and fuel filter.

I live in Colorado. 91 Octane.

My Problem is as follow (I have no low end).
in the first three gears, I will be cruising, with partial throttle. Let's take 2nd gear, 3000RPM. I'll transition immediately to full throttle, and the car will hunker down, and bog 2-3 oscillations before resuming smooth acceleration. It feels more like the car is trying to gain traction, than fueling issues. Once it regains momentum, acceleration is smooth for the rest of the powerband without any hiccups.

Acceleration is fine past 3500RPM. It's up until then, that if I'm cruising, and go immediately to wide open throttle, that my car bogs.

I've searched the archives, which has led me to replace the solenoid. I now am wondering if something's wrong with my: TPS, my RSMs (I don't really hear any clunking from the rear though), my MAF, valve cover gasket, fuel injectors, fuel filter, etc.

Before I go out and spend money on all these parts (and scan tool), would anyone have any helpful clues as to where I should concentrate my initial focus?


Thanks,
Paul

You need to scan the dme for faults. My old M3 would do that sometimes and it was the knock sensors. Although the CE light wasn't on, a code was stored...

I've got my own small shop over in longmont that I run out of my house. If you'd like to bring it by and have me check it out I'd be more than glad to.

Let me know,
Matt

matt, i'm definitely interested.

Josh,

I was able to "blink" out the codes in my car tonight, as it's a 95. My car blinked out 1444.

matt, i'm definitely interested.

Josh,

I was able to "blink" out the codes in my car tonight, as it's a 95. My car blinked out 1444.


This means "no failure". Therefore no fault is recorded in the ECU.

yeah, I meant to say too, it blinked out a 1281, but that cleared out, and has subsequently blinked the 1444. I like having an old OBD 1 car:)

Anyways, when would you be able to see the car? How much do you charge?

Parkpy at gmail dot com.

yeah, I meant to say too, it blinked out a 1281, but that cleared out, and has subsequently blinked the 1444. I like having an old OBD 1 car:)

Anyways, when would you be able to see the car? How much do you charge?

Parkpy at gmail dot com.

Any time this week I can check it out for you. Diagnosis I'll do for free if it takes me under an hour. If I go above an hour It's $30 per hour after that. If someone tells you they need more than 2 or 3 hours to diagnose a problem like yours then they're crazy.

One thing that does have me concerned is the code you said was previously shown, 1281. This is for a "DME control module memory" fault. This could be as simple as doing a reset, or it could mean a new DME. a new "used" DME could go for around 100 to 300 dollars. A new one from the dealer is over 500 and needs programming.

Verruckt, can you e-mail me? I'd like to see you today if I could.

Paul
parkpy at gmail dot com