Hhhmmm, let's just say the it'll be more on autocross, I'm wondering what the best setting of sway bars and Koni's to start off with...

H&R race springs
Koni Yellows rebound adj - how stiff in the F & R?
Turner Motorsports sways - how hard/soft in the F & R?

I'll be swapping springs from H&R sports to H&R race tommorrow, the TMS sways will be delivered to my door on friday...

thanks in advance,
Joven

:wave

I dunno about the Konis, but it's suggest you set the sways full soft, then adjust them as you experience under/oversteer.

yeah, the Koni's is what I'm really having trouble with... I would have to take the rear shocks off my car to adjust them... On the sways, what II had in mind is tos start from 4/5 stiff up front and go full soft in the rears, and then make necessarry adjustments later...

I found my best results from full soft on all setting (sways and koni's). I think I might try to stiffen the rear sway to help with understeer yet...that is of course using yoko advans in the soft compoud. On the road course 1/4 turn on my front koni's seemed to work best.

hhmmmm migh as well just try this out myself when I get it all done... thanks for the help guys

Lessons learned. One thing I dislike about Koni’s, is having to remove the rear shocks to adjustment them. This becomes even more frustrating when the rear shock mount must be removed from inside the trunk. If you’re like me, and your trunk is packed with stereo gear, adjusting the rear Koni’s is now a pain in the ass.
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Several companies manufacture a Rear Shock Mount (RSM) that allows the shocks to be installed and removed from inside the wheel well. They run around 100 bucks per set. I purchased mine from Rogue Engineering. It was money well spent.
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GC and TCK sell e 30 top adj konis..I have em on my 90 e 30.....do they make for e 36?.............. its a nice touch!

GC and TCK sell e 30 top adj konis..I have em on my 90 e 30.....do they make for e 36?.............. its a nice touch!
TC Kline definitely does - I have them on my car. I found that I never adjusted my old shocks since they had to be removed from the car (and RSM removed from the shock so the bump stop could be removed, etc., etc.). So I ended up running them at a compromised setting: too stiff for the street and too soft for autocross.

The rear shocks aren't as straightforward to remove as it would seem, even with RSMs that are accessible from the wheel well. You've got to put a jack under the trailing arm and get a 13mm wrench on the nuts for the RSM bolts. None of my ratcheting wrenches are thin enough to fit in there, so I'm stuck using a combo wrench and it's a pain. Even with the rear end in the air and the wheels off, it's still a ~45 minute job to adjust the shocks.

I picked up the TC Kline pieces and haven't looked back. For someone who autocrosses and/or tracks the car more than half a dozen times a year, the external adjustability is worth the extra $100.

TC Kline definitely does - I have them on my car. I found that I never adjusted my old shocks since they had to be removed from the car (and RSM removed from the shock so the bump stop could be removed, etc., etc.). So I ended up running them at a compromised setting: too stiff for the street and too soft for autocross.

The rear shocks aren't as straightforward to remove as it would seem, even with RSMs that are accessible from the wheel well. You've got to put a jack under the trailing arm and get a 13mm wrench on the nuts for the RSM bolts. None of my ratcheting wrenches are thin enough to fit in there, so I'm stuck using a combo wrench and it's a pain. Even with the rear end in the air and the wheels off, it's still a ~45 minute job to adjust the shocks.

I picked up the TC Kline pieces and haven't looked back. For someone who autocrosses and/or tracks the car more than half a dozen times a year, the external adjustability is worth the extra $100.






+1

Lessons learned. One thing I dislike about Koni’s, is having to remove the rear shocks to adjustment them. This becomes even more frustrating when the rear shock mount must be removed from inside the trunk. If you’re like me, and your trunk is packed with stereo gear, adjusting the rear Koni’s is now a pain in the ass.
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Several companies manufacture a Rear Shock Mount (RSM) that allows the shocks to be installed and removed from inside the wheel well. They run around 100 bucks per set. I purchased mine from Rogue Engineering. It was money well spent.
<o:p></o:p>Watsup my fellow Pinoy, rear shock mounts is the first thing I had tro do with my car after I purchased it... And yes, I did go with Rouge Engineering.. Also, before I bought the Koni's from TCKline Racing, I knew the rear shocks have to be take off the car when need to be adjusted... I don't think that's very hard since I would avoid adjusting them many many times... This is the first time I'ma be adjusting the rear shocks and I don't mind doing it 3-4 times until I get to the right setting... I would probably do some adjustment 2 times in a week, I don't mind doing that...

Hhhmmm... anyway, any of you guys have any idea what is a good starting point of shock setting for 345F/515R springs??? I can make adjustments later, but with the springs I have I don't wanna set the shocks too soft for them... I'm thinking 1/2 turn from full stiff in the fronts, and 1/4 turn from full stiff in the rears...

Early in the season I had my UUCs (tubulars with 4 adj holes up front) one notch from full stiff, and full soft in the rear. This kept the frontend very planted through quick transitions, however I had a steady state understeer problem when entering corners when I came in too hot, or if I tried to get on the power mid corner. Nothing too major.. I was lifting the inside wheel on hard corners on a regular basis, looked cool, but probably not as effective as I would like it to be. In fact I thought it was a bit of a problem, until I noticed how often Bob Tunnell and company does it. Anywhoo I reversed the setup towards the end of our season, to full soft up front and full stiff in the rear and I have to say it feels a bit too sloppy up front now for my taste. Quick transitions require more concentration with earlier turn in which isn't a big deal, but I think this setup takes away from where the M3 shines, fast transitions. Overall grip up front in steady state turns has improved, however I'm not sure I like the feel. I'll be stiffening up the front sways in the very near future and may decide to go med in the rear to see what that does. Adjustments will be made with compression, rebound and tire pressures to see if I can get it where I like it. If I still don't like the setup... I may look into running some different spring setups.. not sure yet. See sig for setup info. Good luck.

Thanks for that ChewToy!!!

Not sure about the koni's...

but I'll hemp you... :devillook

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