Hey guys, I recently purchased a PPI A300 amp, I was wondering if anyone has a manual for it that you could upload, thanks guys!

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h60/bmwpowere36m3/3.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h60/bmwpowere36m3/2.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h60/bmwpowere36m3/1.jpg

Manual...........

Dude, there is nothing to adjust but the gain, and everything is labeled. You don't need the din connector unless you're using a PAR-225 (parametric eq).

L+ / R- for bridged output.

75w/rms X 2 @ 4ohm @ 12v
150w/rms X 2 @ 2ohm @ 12v
300w/rms Bridged @ 4ohm @ 12v

Add roughly 15% to the power rarings for 14v ratings.

Manual...........

Dude, there is nothing to adjust but the gain, and everything is labeled. You don't need the din connector unless you're using a PAR-225 (parametric eq).

L+ / R- for bridged output.

75w/rms X 2 @ 4ohm @ 12v
150w/rms X 2 @ 2ohm @ 12v
300w/rms Bridged @ 4ohm @ 12v

Add roughly 15% to the power rarings for 14v ratings.

I know everythings labeled and easy to understand, it would be nice to just have the manual...but anyway I'm gonna hook this amp up to a set of CDT EF-51's, do you think I will need to use a crossover before I hook it up to the crossovers that come with the comps? Thanks man.

I'd recommend a 18 or 24db/oct high pass filter, set anywhere from 60hz-90hz depending on your install. (you'll have to tune it after its installed to see what sounds best)

I'd recommend a 18 or 24db/oct high pass filter, set anywhere from 60hz-90hz depending on your install. (you'll have to tune it after its installed to see what sounds best)

So the crossover that comes with the comps isn't good enough, but anyway I do have a coustic xm-1e electronic crossover...

Nice find. Those quality old PPI art amps are rare.

So the crossover that comes with the comps isn't good enough, but anyway I do have a coustic xm-1e electronic crossover...

In this particular set-up, you have to use the crossover that came with your speakers. That crossover network divides the audio bandwidth between the tweeter and mid-woofer, respectively, (tweeters get high frequency only, mid gets midrange and mid-bass.)

However there is no low-pass cutoff. So you need a high-pass crossover to filter out the low frequency bass that the mid-range isn't meant to reproduce.

Allowing to let the lower bass frequencies through to the mid-woofer may not cause it ot blow (although commonly it does), but it will be wasting the amplifier's power to reproduce audio frequencies that the speakers were not intended to reproduce. This may allow the speaker to clip at a lower volume level than designed.

The Coustic Crossover will work, but its not the greatest quality unit.

So I guess I will run the coustic x-over first, and low-pass it for the front comps and I could high pass it for the sub. What would you recommend for x-over setting for the comps and sub, 80hz for the comps and 80 for the sub, or should I put 50 hz for the front to just block out the really low frequency. What would you recommend outside of the coustic for x-over's, is its quality not that good. I hear back in the day they were pretty popular?

You need to run the front with the high-pass (allows the highs to pass through) and the sub with the low-pass.

Generally with a 5 1/4" I'd set the crossover somewhere between 70-90hz. I'd genereally set the sub at the same frequency.

You need to run the front with the high-pass (allows the highs to pass through) and the sub with the low-pass.

Generally with a 5 1/4" I'd set the crossover somewhere between 70-90hz. I'd genereally set the sub at the same frequency.

My mistake, thats what I meant with the filter settings.:redspot

Manual...........

Dude, there is nothing to adjust but the gain, and everything is labeled. You don't need the din connector unless you're using a PAR-225 (parametric eq).

L+ / R- for bridged output.



I was wondering about the bridging of the amp. How can you tell your suppose to use L+ / R- vs L- / R+ ? Just for my knowledge.

Add roughly 15% to the power rarings for 14v ratings.

PPI arts are tightly regulated - they will make the same power at 12 and 14v....

did u get the plugs with the amp? ive seen a few on flEaBAY without them. got 1 for friend of forums and its nice, tho scratched up

I was wondering about the bridging of the amp. How can you tell your suppose to use L+ / R- vs L- / R+ ? Just for my knowledge.

it's stated that way in the manual....it's L+ / R-

it's stated that way in the manual....it's L+ / R-


But, like bmwpowere36m3 mentioned before he doesn't have the manual so, how are you suppose to know? Is there a way to figure out without a manual?

But, like bmwpowere36m3 mentioned before he doesn't have the manual so, how are you suppose to know? Is there a way to figure out without a manual?

That's how to bridge ;)

So, let me get this correct one last time. On a standard 2 channel bridgeable amp this is the correct way to hook it up L+ / R- if you want to bridge the amp? Sorry for the stubbornness on my behalf.

PPI arts are tightly regulated - they will make the same power at 12 and 14v....

Thats good to know! Because I was under the impression that it might make more, but either way. :alright

did u get the plugs with the amp? ive seen a few on flEaBAY without them. got 1 for friend of forums and its nice, tho scratched up

Yes it came with the plugs I took them out to clean them and the amp was a little scratched, but hey it's from '92.

rcurley55, do you by chance have the manual on the computer, I was really looking for one, not that I really need it...but it's nice to have.:help

I might have one - without having the manual, it's impossilbe to know b/c it's not marked on the amplifier.

If I find a pdf copy of the manual, I'll send it to you, but no promises....I just Don't remember where I left it

PPI arts are tightly regulated - they will make the same power at 12 and 14v....


You're right. I should have remembered.

I was actually selected to attended PPI's CAS Stage 1 & 2 trainings back in 1994. I toured the factory, and learned everything about PPI back then. I even saw the first prototype flat piston sub.

Then my shop dropped PPI 6 months later.