That is all.........


:alright

Stop Lying.

Nah, it's twoo. Went on today!

:needpics

Pics or ban!

Yeah, yeah, yeah. Soon, soon.

Did I miss something, whats the big deal? (no offense, just not been paying attention i guess). Is this some special oil cooler? Is this on the WCT car at BW or something?

Congrats, I guess :)

No, nothing special...LOL.

Was there some overheating issues you had that caused for this exciting upgrade?

What kind of oil cooler?

Was there some overheating issues you had that caused for this exciting upgrade?

What kind of oil cooler?

E36 M3's have no oil temp gauge. So, ignorance has been bliss (but I have known my instantaneous MPG for the past 9 years...woo hoo). But, tracking in Texas, it was sort of overdue.


VPD.

Haha true. Its hot in NJ, i can only imagine the crazy heat in TeXass.

E36 M3's have no oil temp gauge. So, ignorance has been bliss (but I have known my instantaneous MPG for the past 9 years...woo hoo). But, tracking in Texas, it was sort of overdue.


VPD.
From whom?

Yeah, yeah, yeah. Soon, soon.

BTW has anyone installed a stock E36 oil cooler w/o mounting it to the radiator? This would be on a street car with a condenser still in front of the radiator. If so could you share a picture? I need ideas to install mine and well if you made some nice brackets I'd like to copy them. :D

Muchas grassy ass ameobas,
-Carlos.

From whom?

VPD made the cooler.

E36 M3's have no oil temp gauge. So, ignorance has been bliss (but I have known my instantaneous MPG for the past 9 years...woo hoo). But, tracking in Texas, it was sort of overdue.


VPD.
I'm thinking the same thing, hence my curent thread. Thinking about VPD too...

Whatev ! :stickoutt

****E36 M3's have no oil temp gauge. So, ignorance has been bliss (but I have known my instantaneous MPG for the past 9 years...woo hoo). But, tracking in Texas, it was sort of overdue.****

With all due respect to the E30 M3 crowd that maintains they are the only ones driving the "real M3's"................

The "real E36 M3's" in europe had oil coolers, and oil temperature guages in the cluster, where the silly mpg indicator is.

If you want a real cluster I have a couple here I think.... :)

Alex.

****E36 M3's have no oil temp gauge. So, ignorance has been bliss (but I have known my instantaneous MPG for the past 9 years...woo hoo). But, tracking in Texas, it was sort of overdue.****

With all due respect to the E30 M3 crowd that maintains they are the only ones driving the "real M3's"................

The "real E36 M3's" in europe had oil coolers, and oil temperature guages in the cluster, where the silly mpg indicator is.

If you want a real cluster I have a couple here I think.... :)

Alex.


I know. I would have loved to have imported a REAL Euro E36 M3. LOL!

Nah, no new clusters for me. Installing one would be a real cluster. Gnome saying?

Hey all,
I installed an OC mid-late last season, utilizing the OEM Euro dist housing, with the Turner connection kit to the housing, AN fittings, braided hoses, yada yada yada. I'm even utilizing a bigger than the typical Mocal /Euro M3 cooler - In fact, the actual oil rad is a B&M shifters tranny cooler and I was told/assured it would work just as well OR better..(not that someone tried to sell me this - I already had it - new in the box, kickin around ). Have I been led astray/deceived??

To answer one of the Q's above, I have it attached to the rear side of the support ladder/lattice,(that the A/C fan was attached to) attached via bolts thru some firm rubber mounts(4). With this config, the front of the rad ends up being about 1/4" in front of the main (coolant) radiator, whioch from several other racers (and others) I heard was about optimal, to avoid air cavitation between the two rads, etc.

It was done properly, by a performance shop which does a lot of DINAN and other add-on stuff and I believe they know what they are doing. The biggie is - I have NOT noticed any discernable diff in my oil temps now vs. prior (they have not dropped really at all...) to the install.

One other thing of note - I am NOT running the OEM radiator ducting at the edges...Should I re-install this plastic??

I am running, both an after market Oil Pressure gauge (running at around 50-55lbs when motor is under load) and Oil Temp gauge (typically seems to be reading about 280f-310f - sensor plumbed to the top of the oil filter hsg lid. (I believe from what I've read, this *may* not be the optimum location, but have heard there is likely only 5-10f deg difference from having this at the bottom of the motor(sump/pan).

Thanks,
Dave Rowlison
#65, IP

Hey all,
I installed an OC mid-late last season, utilizing the OEM Euro dist housing, with the Turner connection kit to the housing, AN fittings, braided hoses, yada yada yada. I'm even utilizing a bigger than the typical Mocal /Euro M3 cooler - In fact, the actual oil rad is a B&M shifters tranny cooler and I was told/assured it would work just as well OR better..(not that someone tried to sell me this - I already had it - new in the box, kickin around ). Have I been led astray/deceived??

To answer one of the Q's above, I have it attached to the rear side of the support ladder/lattice,(that the A/C fan was attached to) attached via bolts thru some firm rubber mounts(4). With this config, the front of the rad ends up being about 1/4" in front of the main (coolant) radiator, whioch from several other racers (and others) I heard was about optimal, to avoid air cavitation between the two rads, etc.

It was done properly, by a performance shop which does a lot of DINAN and other add-on stuff and I believe they know what they are doing. The biggie is - I have NOT noticed any discernable diff in my oil temps now vs. prior (they have not dropped really at all...) to the install.

One other thing of note - I am NOT running the OEM radiator ducting at the edges...Should I re-install this plastic??

I am running, both an after market Oil Pressure gauge (running at around 50-55lbs when motor is under load) and Oil Temp gauge (typically seems to be reading about 280f-310f - sensor plumbed to the top of the oil filter hsg lid. (I believe from what I've read, this *may* not be the optimum location, but have heard there is likely only 5-10f deg difference from having this at the bottom of the motor(sump/pan).

Thanks,
Dave Rowlison
#65, IP

Dave;

That seems high for oil temps. Mine usually run around 190f-200f or so with a euro oil cooler. When the car is warmed up and running hard, oil temp and water temp are usually pretty close. Mine may not be right, but that's what I'm seeing.

Dave;

That seems high for oil temps. Mine usually run around 190f-200f or so. When the car is warmed up and running hard, oil temp and water temp are usually pretty close. Mine may not be right, but that's what I'm seeing.


Thanks Scott, wow that seems low....
Ummmm:ponder ....interesting... I'm not sure what one of these motors *should* be running at... I've heard many values all over the map. Mine has seemed to always operate at these temps though and my tech guy says it can take it no issues worries to 300f+, as long as you're using a good oil...(ie. Amsoil, LiquiMoly Racing or Elf Racing) all of which I typically use.

I tend to think that it would've blown by now after all this time running at those temps if not. I AM from what a few have shared with me this AM going to re-install my plastic OE ducting however....

Dave

I'm planning to run something similar to this :)

http://www.jaffster.com/misc/ptgoil.jpg

280 is way too high for an OC set-up. RU sure it was installed properly? Everybody makes mistakes . . .

Garrett, Yeh....I'll have to look into it..."my gut" would tend to say the same thing...AND the fact that I've seen no appreciable difference as I mentioned SINCE I had it installed.

In any case, will try to ducting first and go from there...

Anyone have any ideas what to check....can one get the Oil distribution block(if that's what this pc is called...?? ) where the oil heads out and returns into the Euro hsg reversed?? Would it even run/circulate if it was???

TIA
Dave

oil cooler and no cooling happening? thermostat issue perhaps?

I see oil temps around 250 on track on my turbocharged 325. No oil cooler yet.

No - or else the water temp would be all messed up, car would be overheating and it's fine.....
DR

I put mine on too:D with the turbo ;)

Pictures:


http://dls.fmjmotorsports.com/images/oil1.jpg

http://dls.fmjmotorsports.com/images/oil2.jpg

I think you want the cooler with the fittings facing downward . . . or does it matter?

Dave;

That seems high for oil temps. Mine usually run around 190f-200f or so. When the car is warmed up and running hard, oil temp and water temp are usually pretty close. Mine may not be right, but that's what I'm seeing.

For comparison, my oil temps were ~230F last month at Mid Ohio (Sunday race was the warmest) with no oil cooler. Of course I wasn't going nearly as fast as Scott or Dave :(

I think you want the cooler with the fittings facing downward . . . or does it matter?


Doesn't matter. Their instructions show it both ways.

With the B&M model I run, they both enter/exit (I assume the entry...inlet is the top ...maybe I'll have to dbl check that!!) driver's left side of the cooler.
Dave

Does the VPD kit come with mounts, or is it a "found out a way yourself" type of mount? Where's the best spot to mount it on an e46?

Does the VPD kit come with mounts, or is it a "found out a way yourself" type of mount? Where's the best spot to mount it on an e46?


I comes with hardware...but it was still partly ghetto. :eyecrazy

I comes with hardware...but it was still partly ghetto. :eyecrazy
How so? What do you mean?

It includes mounts/hardware and instructions, but may still require a little fab work.

It includes mounts/hardware and instructions, but may still require a little fab work.
for that price it shouldnt require fab. wow.

The only real issue we had with mine was that, because I have a Fluidyne radiator that is slightly taller than stock, both braided lines would not fit over the top of the radiator & still allow the hood to close. So Bill had to procure one longer braided line, and run it down low, as illustrated in my photos, rather than over the top as recommended. So no fab work on mine, just a longer, rerouted line.

The only real issue we had with mine was that, because I have a Fluidyne radiator that is slightly taller than stock, both braided lines would not fit over the top of the radiator & still allow the hood to close. So Bill had to procure one longer braided line, and run it down low, as illustrated in my photos, rather than over the top as recommended. So no fab work on mine, just a longer, rerouted line.
But overall the quality of machine work/components was good?

The quality is excellent. When I say a little fab work, I mean a LITTLE - like maybe drilling 2 new holes in the plastic mounting point and zip-tying the bottom of the cooler to secure it. This is what I did with mine, as it was rubbing against the aux fan a bit. Another member did something similar (better) by securing the bottom of the cooler with some generic metal brackets he bent/fabbed. Otherwise it is a simple plug and play.

I routed my lines under the radiator and flipped the cooler so they connected underneath. I've never seen an "over-the-top" install like Marrannello's . . . but what do I know?

But overall the quality of machine work/components was good?


It appears to be. They forgot to include the little plug that is supposed to fill the hole in the oil cap where you would run an oil pressure or temperature sensor, but that's about it.

The quality is excellent. When I say a little fab work, I mean a LITTLE - like maybe drilling 2 new holes in the plastic mounting point and zip-tying the bottom of the cooler to secure it. This is what I did with mine, as it was rubbing against the aux fan a bit. Another member did something similar (better) by securing the bottom of the cooler with some generic metal brackets he bent/fabbed. Otherwise it is a simple plug and play.

I routed my lines under the radiator and flipped the cooler so they connected underneath. I've never seen an "over-the-top" install like Marrannello's . . . but what do I know?


The over the top was specified in VPD's written instructions.

The over the top was specified in VPD's written instructions.

Actually the radiator can be mounted in different ways both top and bottom will work fine. Most people mount the connections on the bottom. If you look at our product instructions they actually show the fittings facing the bottom.

Your pictures look good. My only comment is that you need to put the black braided nylon cover over the braided hose to prevent any chafing off the hose on the components that the hose comes into contact with. There should have been approximately 3.5 feet that came with the kit. If you need some please let me know.

"Hmmm, I actually like the over the top method" says the guy who took out his oil cooler lines on the curbing at CA Speedway once. :stickoutt

Actually the radiator can be mounted in different ways both top and bottom will work fine. Most people mount the connections on the bottom. If you look at our product instructions they actually show the fittings facing the bottom.

Your pictures look good. My only comment is that you need to put the black braided nylon cover over the braided hose to prevent any chafing off the hose on the components that the hose comes into contact with. There should have been approximately 3.5 feet that came with the kit. If you need some please let me know.


There was no nylon cover enclosed with the kit. I will email you privately...

Also, photos sent with the instructions show connections both on top & on bottom.

I see about 220-240 on mine (no OC) at hot 100+ days in norcal for comparison.

Hadn't considered an oil cooler as this is supposedly well within tolerance for redline. http://www.redlineoil.com/tech.asp

One point to consider is that the synthetic oils are rated for the higher temperatures themselves.

However it is unknown, (at least by me) that the internal components of the engine are designed to operate at the elevated temperatures. With engine temperatures in the 240-300 degree range one may be concerned with decreased clearances between various engine components such as piston/cylinder bore due to the differences in coefficients of thermal expansion between parts. Also additional stress is places on seals, gaskets, hoses, plastics parts etc. with engines operating at these temperatures.

I guess my point would be you just cannot consider the operating temperature of the oil and assume that if its rated for the higher temperature that the engine is as well.

Maybe so.

I cook on all clad pans that are 3 bonded layers: aluminum, copper and steel. All of these metals have very different thermal expansion characterictis and get way hotter than 300F in a less than 1 minute. No problems after years of daily use.

So I'm not so worried about engine internals, which are all steel/iron and heat at approxmately the same rate.

It's the oil you need to care about...

Maybe so.

I cook on all clad pans that are 3 bonded layers: aluminum, copper and steel. All of these metals have very different thermal expansion characterictis and get way hotter than 300F in a less than 1 minute. No problems after years of daily use.

So I'm not so worried about engine internals, which are all steel/iron and heat at approxmately the same rate.

It's the oil you need to care about...

Um. I think it's very naive to assume that your engine is ok simply because your frying pans can take it. I have heard of bad things happening when temps are elevated, so I wouldn't risk it. I plan on going FI, but I will be adding an oil cooler, s54 radiator, etc before doing so.

Anyone here have experience running the oil lines on an e46?
http://i4.tinypic.com/23hx4ap.jpg
It said mount the cooler upside down, so I need to find a way to run them all the way from the bottom of the cooler to the filter cap. Any ideas?

Greg, mount it right side up in your case. It really doesn't matter. Upside down only nakes it easier to drain the cooler in case you ever have to replace it.

Mine is right side up---makes a world of difference WRT routing the hoses.

What are the temp drops you are seeing with this kit?

FYI,

VPD oil cooler sale on FI and Competition Coolers for the month of August only.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=575358

Greg, mount it right side up in your case. It really doesn't matter. Upside down only nakes it easier to drain the cooler in case you ever have to replace it.

Mine is right side up---makes a world of difference WRT routing the hoses.
Will do, I just mounted it that way because the directions said so. I also received confirmation from VPD that it's okay to mount it that way.

Fuck, well I can't mount it upright because it doesn't have enouhg clearance. So I guess I'll mount it upside down and try and run them through the kidney grill intake thing.

Also when I looked inside of the rubber/steel mesh tubing it's covered in tiny(very fine) bits of black rubber which I guess are from when they cut it. I tried using an A/C but to no avail, any idea how to get this shit out? Water, wd-40, brake parts cleaner? Anybody? Bueller?

The black stuff you are referring to is rubber from when the hose was cut. You should be able to clean it out using a simple soap and water solution with compressed air if needed.

I got one too, euro dual line oil cooler...congratz bro


http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j286/ASSMAN420/100_0478.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j286/ASSMAN420/100_0479.jpg

What I figured.
http://i2.tinypic.com/23mpz44.jpg
No kidney grill air intake thing for now.

Looks good. :)

Let us know what kind of temperature drops you see on the track.

Looks good. :)

Let us know what kind of temperature drops you see on the track.
Doubtfull I'll ever know because I don't have a "before" oil temp. I'll be getting atleast* an oil temp gauge here sometime.

My oil hit 230 today. water temp hit about the same

My oil hit 230 today. water temp hit about the same
You have an oil cooler then I assume?

so let me get this straight....

my e30 325is has an oil cooler stock, and your e36 m3 doesn't? and it also didn't come with a plastic water pump impeller?

so let me get this straight....

my e30 325is has an oil cooler stock, and your e36 m3 doesn't? and it also didn't come with a plastic water pump impeller?

Yes and yes..... :(

I was at MSR this weekend with my car. Pretty stock NA S52. No OC.

Temps varied, about 235F in the morning run sessions, as high as 250F in the afternoon.

Ambient was about 103F in the afternoon.

FWIW my old e30 328iS, with factory oil cooler setup (varified working) ran about 210-220F just putting around town.

My M3 usually stays around 185-90F or so around town and on the highway.

Since BMWNA thoughtfully gave me a useful miles-per-gallon gauge instead of an oil temperature gauge, I have no clue as to temps, and never have.

That said, I am damned glad I had that oil cooler on last weekend with 103+ degree ambient temps. With all those 2nd gear WOT parts of the track (I go down to 2nd gear 4 times on that track), and few straightaways & very little cooling with all the brake zones, corners, and uphill climbs.

I gar-on-TEE that my oil temps would have been pushing 275-290, as hard as I drive/drove, without the cooler.