I didn't dry my car after a quick spray down the other day and now I have terrible hard water spots. They aren't that noticable in direct sun but in the garage they jump out at you. I have tried vinegar, ammonia, CLR bath cleaner, mineral spirits, iso. alcohol, scratch X, and 3 M rubbing compound. Nothing made any difference. I spoke to a body shop and they feel a good 3 step polish should solve the problem without wet sanding.
My question for anyone is once I get the PC what pad and polishes do I need. I've seen 3M, Griots, menazine, and poorboys mentioned. would I need to do all three steps and when do I use what pads? I appreciate everyones help, I am lost among all the different articles.
thanks you, scott

I think you need something very mild on a smooth pad. Trying by hand and PC are two different things. I'd start with #3 (mildest) Griot's or equivivalent (sp?!!).

I've had good luck with vinegar and water but for tough ones I spray it on the spots and let it sit for a good minute - then wipe with MF. I noticed in your post that you tried this but did you let it sit for a while?

I would use a clay bar to get the water spots off. Should come right off if it was recent. Then use the PC to polish.

I recently had nasty water spots and had to remove them with Zaino ZPC and a foam cutting pad. I did try a polishing pad and it wasn't able to touch the spots.

I tried to let the vinegar set for a few minutes with no results. I have also tried a clay bar and it did nothing either. The spots are faint and deeply imbedded. You can't see them in the sunlight, only in the garage under artifical lighting at the proper angle. I spoke with an auto body shop yesterday and they mentioned using 3M swirl remover and a black waffle pad.
thanks for your recommendations.

I'd make quick work of this condition with a circular buffer but if you only have a ROB try a yellow pad and some light to meduim cut product. Spin that baby up to 5 - 6 and work the product. Diminish any hazing or clouding and work it back up to a good shine to match the adjacent sections. Sounds like etching and not surface dried crap.

PC with Poorboys SSR 2.5 will get out most anything. This stuff really shows the value of the PC... The PB 2.5 is quite abrasive.. so much so that if used by hand with even modest pressure, youll quickly see how strong it is via micromarring everywhere you rubbed it.. So we know its aggressive; that plus the fact that you can feel the grit when rubbing it between two fingers! .. One can only imagine now much micromarring would accompany its use with a rotary.. But, with the PC, its random pad motion is so effective that I usually dont even have to follow its use up with a milder product to get out the micromarring! This product shows the effectiveness of the PC so well because it allows you to apply something as aggressive as this 2.5 so effectively that it removes almost all surface damage while introducing no new micromarring. This is indeed a delicate balance, and shows, for my money, better than anything else why the PC used with the right product is the best way for the hobbyist to get his surface back to new-like.