Ok, I have a 1997 540i that I am looking into purchasing. The deal is $8K. Does it sound like I am getting into a headache with this? I have a strong general mechanical background as well as experience in Honda and VW tuning (although this will be my first BMW). Do these problems listed sound like they are major?

The major problem I see is the "checked for any faults in DME, one found #139 Map Cooling, Activiation" at the bottom. What does that mean? The guy said that the thermostat needed replacing and it would cost about $250. How hard is the thermostat to replace on these?

Is there anything else I should look out for?

heres a link, since I cannot post links you will have to cut and paste-bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153005

Thanks in advance for any advice!

The thermostat isn't difficult to replace, but while doing that replacement of the waterpump and probably the radiator would be a good idea if they have 60k or more on them.

really easy to replace the thermostat. for $8000 not a bad deal. i would get a 6 speed though. these auto trans's dont last forever.

QUOTE] <TABLE class=tborder cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR title="Post 6838049" vAlign=top><TD class=alt1 align=middle width=125>thejlevie</TD><TD class=alt2>The thermostat isn't difficult to replace, but while doing that replacement of the waterpump and probably the radiator would be a good idea if they have 60k or more on them.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>[/QUOTE]

I know the radiator has been replaced within the last few years, not sure about the waterpump.

<TABLE class=tborder cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR title="Post 6838087" vAlign=top><TD class=alt1 align=middle width=125>killcrap</TD><TD class=alt2>really easy to replace the thermostat. for $8000 not a bad deal. i would get a 6 speed though. these auto trans's dont last forever.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

I wanted a 6spd, but to be honest I am getting pretty lazy and the manual's suck in traffic...and since this will be my "to work and back" car, I figured the auto would just be easier. Plus...the wife's vote is for an auto...

where are you copping that 540i at for $8k, care to share, they got any sticks for that price, what kind of miles are we talking about.

the radiator doesnt last more than 60K on these cars. the neck cracks and causes a huge leak. also the expansion tanks like to explode. if you want a semi more relable car, get the 6 cyl 528i

where are you copping that 540i at for $8k, care to share, they got any sticks for that price, what kind of miles are we talking about.

its a private seller and the only one. sorry, no sticks..

the radiator doesnt last more than 60K on these cars. the neck cracks and causes a huge leak. also the expansion tanks like to explode. if you want a semi more relable car, get the 6 cyl 528i

The radiator's been replaced and I could buy a better aftermarket one if needed. I have no problem replacing a radiator, although the owner said it was replaced within the last couple of years.

I thought at a 528 and even found a few smokin deals...but I just can't go back to it after driving the 540. Plus I need an auto and the 528 autos are so sluggish. I just got rid of a Jetta 1.8T and needed something a little bigger/faster. The 528's have just a little more hp than my 1.8t had (few mods) but they are a whole lot heavier.

any other things to look for?

it says on here that the passenger rear window cable is binding, and driveshaft to differential is leaking
...how hard or expensive is this to replace on these?

And, the "instrument cluster states to check rear lights and brake lights" but the lights work fine... what could be causing this?

i bought a 98 540i for 8k one time.


yeah- the FBI took it away from me because the car was stolen. Even though it had the title, keys, tag and everything right, it was still stolen. Apparently in the United states, you can steal a car, get a key made for it. Go get emissions done on it. Get a title from the DMV, get your tag, and get insurance on the car even if its stolen. Its completely rediculous.

So i bought the silver one you see below.

Make damn damn damn sure that the car is not stolen.

I didnt think anything of the price because i bought the car from a guy with a car dealers license. He told me he was moving from tennesse to texas and he had 5 cars that he hadnt sold yet so he was selling them off for what he had in them to move them quick. The car was in ok to fair shape, had 133k miles on it and need a tiny bit of work. Well, kelly blue book dealer trade in for the car was 7950 dollars. The seller was asking 8k. I did a car fax and it was fine. so i bought the car. Now i wish i hadnt.

Some parts have to be bad on that 97 540 you are looking at. Thats a 'steal' of a price.....

damn, so did you get your money back or anything. was that $8k just gone like that?
Oh nice combo you got thier Piano boy. lol

J/K man, its all good.

nope- it was the equivelent to me driving down the road and throwing 8000 dollars out the window.

oh well, its a small world. Karma is complete bitch. Seems like I run into so many people that i havent seen in years that ive met only 1 time. If i see him, im going to kill him. dont think im joking.

Well damn, Piano man.
simma down now. dont kill him cause then you'll be wanted for murder and still wont get your money back. So fuk him up, and then jack him for some shit worth $8k plus.

Hey ah, was his name Niel by any chance. cat from NY?

I think I will check into that...

Any ideas on if a slightly bent rim that isn't causing any vibrations that I can feel would be detrimental?

Also, where could I find an aftermarket radiator if needed?

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f37/abjenkins/540Iinspection3.jpg

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f37/abjenkins/540iinspection4.jpg

thats a fairly thorough checklist, who did it, was it a BMW dealer/tech.

It looks like this car is gonna need a little bit of work to get right, iwouldnt walk away just yet. ebya some parts and a few advertisers ina your monthly Bimmer mag, see what kind of money your looking at. SOme of that stuff you should be able to do yourself with tools.

It was an independant shop that specializes in BMW's.

You hvae to replace 2 rims all four tires...all the brakes, fix the lights, and the instrument cluster has to be replaced in one pieces (if you have any dead pixels on it) The alignment needs to be done... Sounds like too much trouble when you can spend a little more to get one that is already working....

just my .02 cents

Ben, look what i found for ya.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=204131967&dealer_id=57691155&car_year=1997&model=540I&num_records=&bkms=1151311856401&make2=sel_one&lang=en&isp=y&start_year=1996&mod_bookmark_id=null&engine=&certified=&fuel=&only_price=1&search_type=both&distance=0&make=BMW&color=&min_price=1&drive=&max_mileage=&address=23511&advanced=y&end_year=2004&doors=&transmission=Manual&max_price=10000&cardist=1213

Got a quick question tho.
When your shopping for a used BMW and you find one, how do you get it inspected by the BMW tech, do you bring him to the dealer and ask them to let him look at it, or do you ask to have it taken to a mech of your choice?
How exactly does that work?
And if you dont know the Tech personally, can u just walk into a BMW dealership and ask them to set an apponiment for you to have your car that your about to purchase from Jimmy's auto down the road inspected by one of thier techs?

The driveshaft is an $800 item from the dealer, you can get a rebuilt one for about $500. Not to mention about another $500 in labor, so that's a $1000 in repairs not to mention the other things wrong with the car.

I think my find is better, id bet u a 6 pack its in better condition, just go check it out dude.


Anyway, bump for my question.

Parts can be had from http://www.bmaparts.com

I would guess that you got the PPI done at that shop north of Sawdust, starts with a "D".

Also, OBDII code 139 is as follows:
P0139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

I don't know what they're talking about with "Map activation" - I would call and ask.

The $8K price probably takes into account about $2K worth of repairs.

doors and windows are not mintish either.
you're looking at roughly $3k+ repairs on this car.
Blue book values it (97/140k) at $12500.00 private/excellent,
so if you get to spend 3k on top of 8k to get the car in good shape
, it sounds about right. My 2 cents.

You will prob have to replace the window regulator (but not motor). The plastic pulleys dry rot and the cables end up dragging and binding. About $130 part I think and at least a couple hours labor. Can be done solo but tedious.

The driveshaft is an $800 item from the dealer, you can get a rebuilt one for about $500. Not to mention about another $500 in labor, so that's a $1000 in repairs not to mention the other things wrong with the car.

so, I would need to replace the entire driveshaft for a small leak? Or is there just a gasket or seal that I could replace?

I think my find is better, id bet u a 6 pack its in better condition, just go check it out dude.


Anyway, bump for my question.

I will probably go check it out...it looks nicer...but it is a standard and I really think I should get an auto this time around...

Ben, look what i found for ya.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=204131967&dealer_id=57691155&car_year=1997&model=540I&num_records=&bkms=1151311856401&make2=sel_one&lang=en&isp=y&start_year=1996&mod_bookmark_id=null&engine=&certified=&fuel=&only_price=1&search_type=both&distance=0&make=BMW&color=&min_price=1&drive=&max_mileage=&address=23511&advanced=y&end_year=2004&doors=&transmission=Manual&max_price=10000&cardist=1213

Got a quick question tho.
When your shopping for a used BMW and you find one, how do you get it inspected by the BMW tech, do you bring him to the dealer and ask them to let him look at it, or do you ask to have it taken to a mech of your choice?
How exactly does that work?
And if you dont know the Tech personally, can u just walk into a BMW dealership and ask them to set an apponiment for you to have your car that your about to purchase from Jimmy's auto down the road inspected by one of thier techs?

since I am buying from a private seller, I just had him drop it off at the shop of my choice. BMW dealership was my first choice, but they couldn't get it in for a week...so I found another BMW specific shop out there. THen they just faxed me the information.

Parts can be had from http://www.bmaparts.com

I would guess that you got the PPI done at that shop north of Sawdust, starts with a "D".

Also, OBDII code 139 is as follows:
P0139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

I don't know what they're talking about with "Map activation" - I would call and ask.

The $8K price probably takes into account about $2K worth of repairs.

Thanks for the link.

No, I didn't get it done there. I think I know the place you are talking about...on I-45 between Taipei and Olive Garden? Can't think of the name now....are they any good?

I actually had it done in Austin which is where the car is located right now..

why is "evidence of collision" blank? this is one of the most important items in a ppo.

also strange that it needs an alignment... make sure you do a carfax on this one as you should with any car. I've not had any alignments on a bimmer before, so this could be evidence of a bent frame.

also the driveshaft thing is kinda of a bummer get an estimate on that...

also looks like the brakes are going to need replacing soon, maybe good time to check out a brake upgrade (rotors).

why is "evidence of collision" blank? this is one of the most important items in a ppo.

also strange that it needs an alignment... make sure you do a carfax on this one as you should with any car. I've not had any alignments on a bimmer before, so this could be evidence of a bent frame.

also the driveshaft thing is kinda of a bummer get an estimate on that...

also looks like the brakes are going to need replacing soon, maybe good time to check out a brake upgrade (rotors).

Did a carfax and everything checks out there. From what they said, the "pulling condition" is probably from the bent wheel, but it "could" need an alighnment...

Thanks Ben, i think you shoud get a stick tho, do it right, 6 gears are better than 4. better mileage with proper shifting.

Lemme know how it goes. If you get the auto, definately talk him down another grand or so. show him estimates and go in hard.

Also, OBDII code 139 is as follows:
P0139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)


No, he means the DME code is 139, the equivalent OBDII code is something like P1621 or P1622. I had the same thing once on my car, not sure if it is a serious issue or not yet.