View Full Version : Prepping for a Used M10


marinersfan
06-20-2006, 12:38 AM
I've been kinda on the sidelines a bit working on the wifes E28 that wouldn't crank properly and the new alternator wouldn't charge. After a couple of weeks of pullin my hair out it turned out to be a friggin braided ground cable.

I'm getting prepared to receive the 2.0 that was in AZ and deemed to be running with not too bad compression. The plan is to replace:
Oil Pump & Chain
Main Bearings
Seals

Obviously I won't know if there is anything needed on the crank until I get into it. If there are any issues is it best to recondition it or maybe that one that was in my former motor before it spun a bearing OR get a new crank. We're also implementing cost effectiveness here too guys so I can't go overboard with a wish list.

I'm also going to figure the head is usable too at this point. The head can be done at a later time as I have 2 donor heads to work with. On the subject of the head should I go ahead and replace the timing chain no matter what?

Also, I know many of you fellas have the latter year E21's and haven't had to concern yourselves with such things but what about EGR stuff? I made sure he was sending all the EGR stuff and I can replaced whatr seems to be shot but am I better off all the way around by just eliminating all of it? If so, who's done this that can itemize for me all the things to pitch and what/best methods to closing things off?

In closing, I'm sure there are some things I'm overlooking. Help me out here guys I don't wanna hafta dig into the bottom end again for a VERY long time!

Thanks~~~

tlmitf
06-20-2006, 12:55 AM
if your doing bearings, why not do rings at the same time?

my M10 build is going to have:
ross pistons 8:1 CR
argo rods
nitrided stock crank
dynamic balance, and a 8K rpm redline.

with a nice turbo, ill be seeing 400hp at the crank. with room to get more power if i want, or a motor that will give me a nice long life (i hope)

oh, the bock is getting machiened too.

all up the motor will cost me $8K australian with a stock head.


what are your plans for the motor?
what is your $$$?

erzengel13
06-20-2006, 01:33 AM
What's the budget like? What's your power goals? FI or NA? K-jet, EFI or Carburetors? Definately a lot of options you can go with....

marinersfan
06-20-2006, 02:17 AM
What's the budget like? What's your power goals? FI or NA? K-jet, EFI or Carburetors? Definately a lot of options you can go with....

Sorry guys I'm not really going beefy with this yet. Just want to get her back on the road and keep her mostly stock with the exception maybe of the EGR stuff. Eventually going with Pertronix ignition system. Later a header....but right now I just wanna be drivin her.

As far as the rings, not a bad idea and hopefully the cylinders won't require more than a hand hone job.

I'm still unemployed so $$$ is definitely tight. All the work I'm doing myself.

slowe21
06-20-2006, 09:21 AM
with a nice turbo, ill be seeing 400hp at the crank.

all up the motor will cost me $8K australian with a stock head.


cough *bullshit* cough :D :stickoutt

erzengel13
06-20-2006, 11:21 AM
Oh, well if you're going for a stock rebuild, gaskets top and bottom, head gasket, oil pump and chain, timing chain and sprocket (if you're replacing the stock sproket, just get an adjustable one, dependant on finances of course). Make sure your valvetrain is in good order too. While you're at it, I'd replace the valve seals, they're cheap enough.


It might be worthwhile to replace the main bearings, just for insurance. Rings might not be a bad idea either. Total Seals are my personal preferance.

Good luck with the rebuild!

erzengel13
06-20-2006, 11:22 AM
cough *bullshit* cough :D :stickoutt
+1

dmanb55
06-20-2006, 07:41 PM
If you want durability and to never go into the bottom end again, definitely check the crank, pistons for scoring, new rings, hone the cylinders, all new bearings both mains and rods, fresh oil pan gasket, check oil pump and make sure the chain is taught. As for timing chain stuff, just make sure the chain is tight and that the tensioner isn't too worn. Timing chains are super durable so not too much to worry about there. That's what I did for my stock budget rebuild on the bottom end and it's been solid for 45,000 km afterward. I think that is your minimum investment to ensure that you don't have to touch the bottom end again and kept oil in it.