what is up e21 folk. i usually post in the e36 section but i need your guys help on a lil something. my girl is making her first attempt into the bmw world and is getting a e21 320is from a family member of mine. the car has 190k on it and has been sitting almost 2 years. we replaced the plugs and cap and rotor and cant get the car to start. i searched "e21 wont start" and came up with something about the fuel filter. that seems like it might be something to check out but of course my haynes manual for the car doesnt show anything relating to that. the car will turn over but wont catch and idle. my stepdad is a starting fluid super freak and sprayed some in the intake while cranking it over and it wanted to run real bad but after the fluid burned out it went back to just turning over instead of sputtering. where is this filter anddo you guys have any other ideas. ???

Sounds like it just might be the Warm up regulator. :dunno They're expensive at $300. That's one of the worser case senarios. It's located on the block on the left side under the brake booster and directly below the starter. It'll look like this...
http://www.bavauto.com//assets/product_images/hardpart/0_438_140_071.jpg

Most of the fuel components are behind the right rear axle. But one pump is internal in the actual gas tank. That's a bitch to tinker with. Plus, while you guys are messing with it, clean or replace the fuel injectors.

Sounds great for her. I hope she keeps us posted. We need a girl on these forums. Maybe it'll make my girlfriend get even more into Bimmers too.

First, smell the gas in the filler cap. If it doesnt smell like gas, lots of problems if it doesnt. When you turn the key on can you hear the pumps running. One in the tank and one under the filler cap. The fuel warm up regulator can be cleaned if you do no want to replace it. There are two small screens under the brass fittings that have to be clear of sludge. It sound like the fuel distributor plunger is stuck to me. This is the box looking piece where your fuel lines come from. That can be taken off, not taken apart and shot fuel of carberator cleaner and soak for a while. The large chrome pin in the middle/underside must move up and down easily. Shoot plenty of carb cleaner in and around that until it moves up and down with no effort. There is a round rubber seal that it sits on that you do not want to loose or leave out when you put it back together. Mine sat for many years and it to would run on starting fluid until I cleaned these parts. Also, make sure all your hoses are tight, all of them. Make sure the dip stick is all the way in. Hope that helps.

We welcome the little lady to our forum! Great wealth of information, support and well just a bunch of great people! :buttrock

I agree with everything mentioned so far. By what you're describing it sounds like it is pretty much fuel related. Make SURE you're starting with fresh fuel!!!
That fuel can get pretty nasty and diluted from condensation after sitting for 2 years, especially the pacific northwest. Try the things mentioned so far. May someone here is near you and can help. There are also a group of guys in Portland that meet quite regularly or at least used to. You'll primarily find them at www.bmw320i.com which is another great group of guys and good information. I'd post this there too! Keep updating us on your results as you try different things.

Welcome again!!

Yep, if it kinda runs on starter fluid but not without, it is most likely a lack of fuel (or a super weak spark).

If it is a 1977-79, check and replace the points and condensor. If it is 80-83, it has electronic ignition and doesn't have points - so disregard if it is.

A good first step is to pull a hose and drain the gas tank. Then top it up with fresh, low octane fuel. I would also put some cheap fuel injection cleaner in there. If you can cycle the pump by turning the key on (and waiting for a few seconds) then doing it again to move some of the fresh fuel around, that should help. Maybe. If it still doesn't crank or fire, you should dig a little deeper.

Pull the injectors and put them in containers. Remove the fuel pump relay and replace it with a jumper wire between the two terminals that run power to the pump. Can't remember which but your Haynes should tell you, or I can check when I get home. This will cause the pump to run all the time, fyi, so don't leave the wire in and walk away. Now, remove the air filter, and push up on the air flow meter/arm, or pull the rubber boot and lift up on the plate with a strong magnet on the center nut or a pair of plieres.

When the plate lifts, the injectors should spray. More spray with more lift. If the plate won't come up, the fuel distributor on the air box housing may be gummed up. If it is, you can sometimes bring them back (as they are expensive) by removing it - pull the injector line fittings and the feed and return hoses off of it, undo the 3 or so little bolts holding it down and pull it off. Be careful that the center plunger doesn't fall out and get nicked or dropped. It is precisely machined and its surface finish needs to be free of dents/scors/etc. Fill up a little margarine tub with carb cleaner or brack cleaner and submerge it. Let it soak for a day or so, shaking it every so often. Also, if the center plunger is varnished, rub it down with carb cleaner and a cloth until it is clean.

Reinstall, try again.

cool cool thanks for the quick responses guys, were gonna try to dig around for this stuff here next weekend maybe. were kinda goin in blind cause we dunno where half that stuff is that you guys are talking about but we will make a good effort. thanks again