OK, so I'm trying to decide on my clutch? It seems to be between the Clutch Masters FX700 Stage 7 (http://www.clutchmasters.com/shop/) (I think CC runs this one) and the UUC UltraSmooth Cerametallic (http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/performance_clutches/).

It seems like the CM will be a more on/off type of clutch, and the UUC will be more smooth (hence the name).

Any high torque cars running the UUC yet?
Thoughts for other possibilities?
I need it to hold 650+ torque for daily driving and occasional track/strip use.

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/performance_clutches/images/UUC_ULTRASMOOTH.jpg

http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B000ED8T42.01-A3TYWMHL1EBP1B._SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg

I know ULI eurosport stg 2 TS has this UUC clutch. and that is what I belive I will get for my TS stg 2.

I know ULI eurosport stg 2 TS has this UUC clutch. and that is what I belive I will get for my TS stg 2.
Yeah, I saw that he was using it, but he's only making 277 wtq according to his sig.

Gimme a couple weeks and I'll hopefully report on how the UUC holds up ;)

Yeah, I saw that he was using it, but he's only making 277 wtq according to his sig.


he is making more now. :devillook

he was at 277 on the 2.8L motor he has the 3.2 low compresion motor in it now with more boost. has not dynoed yet.

I highly doubt that my car will ever see 650 wtq. If that's what you have for your daily driver you must have an extraordinary setup.

well im making 502ft/lbs of tourqe on a mustang dyno and the cerametallic clutch is the best high hp clutch i have ever had. I had a 3 puck exedy in my nissan s13 when i had it and I hated it. the UUC clutch is a night and day difference. It feels completley stock to me

well im making 502ft/lbs of tourqe on a mustang dyno and the cerametallic clutch is the best high hp clutch i have ever had. I had a 3 puck exedy in my nissan s13 when i had it and I hated it. the UUC clutch is a night and day difference. It feels completley stock to me
That's news I like to hear. I made 544 torque on a fresh and badly slipping SPEC Stage 3/4 clutch. Thanks.

That's news I like to hear. I made 544 torque on a fresh and badly slipping SPEC Stage 3/4 clutch. Thanks.


Holy Sh1t Paradigm guy.............they are good numbers right there

Do you have a full spec on your car?

Thanks. Yeah, this build was essentially finished (all boost junkies know that it's never really finished) about 5-6 months ago. Here's a quick run down on it all.

BL Turbo Kit with a T67
CP pistons (8.5:1 cr)
Pauter rods
ARP headstuds
Reworked head
Ferrea 1mm oversize valves
Dual springs
TEC3R

There's a lot of things I'm leaving out, but that's the guts of the power side of it. I suppose I should make a new sig.

It must be a :freak :eyecrazy
Now i remember you made that power with the clutch slipping on the dyno. Im curious to see what kind f power you will make running a worthy clutch.
What kind of power does teh standard BoostLogic kit put out without digging into the head (besides lowering compression via headgasket)?

Yep, that was me. I plan to get some better numbers when I put this new clutch in.

Their standard kit uses a T61, would should still produce results of over 500 RWHP with no motor work.

I don't know if the head work neccessarily improved power, but would at least improve spool.

So will the e46 clutch work with the e36... sorry nub??? I dont see an app for the e36 on the uuc website

So will the e46 clutch work with the e36... sorry nub??? I dont see an app for the e36 on the uuc website
The E46 won't work. They do have an application for the E36 and it is on their site.

i don't have the ultrasmooth clutch from uuc but i am running the 6 puck SPEC that i got from UUC. the six puck is abit noisy for my taste around town. on the course, its performs great. but around town, people look at me like i have a broken ride. and my wife don't like driving with it at all. maybe this new clutch will be better. well, i'm suck with the 6 puck until i wear it out. not anytime soon... for i just replaced it last yr and i only drive 4000-5000 per yr on my M3.

i don't have the ultrasmooth clutch from uuc but i am running the 6 puck SPEC that i got from UUC. the six puck is abit noisy for my taste around town. on the course, its performs great. but around town, people look at me like i have a broken ride. and my wife don't like driving with it at all. maybe this new clutch will be better. well, i'm suck with the 6 puck until i wear it out. not anytime soon... for i just replaced it last yr and i only drive 4000-5000 per yr on my M3.
How much torque are making? I tried the SPEC Stage 3/4 last year. It didn't more than a couple weeks for me.

How much torque are making? I tried the SPEC Stage 3/4 last year. It didn't more than a couple weeks for me.
The FX700 will hold your power its a twin disc set-up that can easily be upgraded, give it a shot. :)

The FX700 will hold your power its a twin disc set-up that can easily be upgraded, give it a shot. :)
Yeah, looks like I may have to go that route. Is it an on/off type of clutch? Or is there enough play that I can get used to it to make it a smooth engagement?

I would say go with the FX700. CM are know to be able to hold and plus you right on the boarder for wtq on the UUC. Got not play. Nice clutch though. Only good reading posts about it.

O.T. a little... What happened with the RPS clutch. For some reason im thinking it was you who was interested in getting one, and was in contact with them about creating it. If not then sorry, you name just reminds me of it.

Yeah, looks like I may have to go that route. Is it an on/off type of clutch? Or is there enough play that I can get used to it to make it a smooth engagement?
Its not an on off clutch, its actually very streetable, call clutch masters talk to Luis and tell him I sent you he will take care of you. :)

I would say go with the FX700. CM are know to be able to hold and plus you right on the boarder for wtq on the UUC. Got not play. Nice clutch though. Only good reading posts about it.

O.T. a little... What happened with the RPS clutch. For some reason im thinking it was you who was interested in getting one, and was in contact with them about creating it. If not then sorry, you name just reminds me of it.
Yeah, that was me. The RPS connection fell threw.

Its not an on off clutch, its actually very streetable, call clutch masters talk to Luis and tell him I sent you he will take care of you. :)
Sweet, sounds good. Would you recommend the FX700 or the FX800 that cardcounter is now using?

Sweet, sounds good. Would you recommend the FX700 or the FX800 that cardcounter is now using?
CC is actually using a 'pre-production' enhanced version of the FX800, like he mentions in his "M52 Thread" - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=525612 I know you posted there but didn't know if you saw it.

I am curious to know if the FX700 would hold however... George is the FX700 good for 600whp, consistently?

Sweet, sounds good. Would you recommend the FX700 or the FX800 that cardcounter is now using?
FX700will hold, unless you drive like Cardcounter then think about stepping it up.

Which UltraSmooth Cerametallic are you going with? The stock M3 replacement or the M5 clutch with LTW fly?

for those that had problems with the cerametallic, was it a break in issue or was it just not able to hold the power? which version were you running?

George, what do you mean by how Card Counter drives? is the fx700 able to take the power? I'm interested in upgrading to something more abuseable, what would you recommend?

Ron, what are you currently running? Would you maybe be interested in trying to start a GB for the UUC clutch?

Ron, what are you currently running? Would you maybe be interested in trying to start a GB for the UUC clutch?
I'm currently using Rogue's regular clutch disc and an OE pressure plate. it's holding up fine with about 10k boosted miles and maybe 15k NA miles but I fear that runs at the strip will cook it.

I'm not interested in the uuc setup after reading about members' troubles with it burning up early....I'm going to shy away from that product. if you want to try and set one up, give Rob a call.

I'll most likely call up RE and get something stronger.

i thought the cerametallic clutch just came out? how many boosted members have had problems with it?

i thought the cerametallic clutch just came out? how many boosted members have had problems with it?
i'll let you know in a month

This is a great thread! Thanks! I will have to give Luis a call and tell him George@ICS sent me to buy the FX800. I wonder how long my Clutchmasters Stage 4 will last. LOL!

i thought the cerametallic clutch just came out? how many boosted members have had problems with it?
several of us have it so far, some of us have had less then steller life with them. I think I just read that carcrazed was the most recent person to have posted something about it but you're best off asking him directly:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6468688&postcount=13

Dave, keep us posted.

Went to the Clutch Masters website and didn't see a FX600 or higher application for the 3.2L engines. Is this a special custom order setup? What flywheels can it fit on?

Went to the Clutch Masters website and didn't see a FX600 or higher application for the 3.2L engines. Is this a special custom order setup? What flywheels can it fit on?
Jon,

download their 2006 catalogue, you'll see the 600 and 700 listed under 'custom' applications.

fitment should be for stock and lightweight M3 flywheels that accept the regular 240 mm clutch kit, not including the uuc stage II flywheel.

-Ron

Just thought I'd share. I've broken in my UUC UltraSmooth, and its deff not holding my power on lightning quick shifts :( I've gone from a rolling first to floored 2-3-4-5... all with a spinning clutch and now acceleration from the car...

I'm hoping its a freak anomaly and Rob might be able to find out why, cause I really like the clutch. I can street drive it better then the Comptech Cluth in my NSX...

But maybe even with the miles, I just got glaze build up...

Just thought I'd share. I've broken in my UUC UltraSmooth, and its deff not holding my power on lightning quick shifts :( I've gone from a rolling first to floored 2-3-4-5... all with a spinning clutch and now acceleration from the car...

I'm hoping its a freak anomaly and Rob might be able to find out why, cause I really like the clutch. I can street drive it better then the Comptech Cluth in my NSX...

But maybe even with the miles, I just got glaze build up...
what are your #s?

what are your #s?
450whp/350wtq

450whp/350wtq
uh oh. :(

Again, Rob has been pretty good in the past, and even diagnoss my problem the first time around... I'm see if he can help out again and figure what the deal is this time around...

I'm actuall still debating to keep the clutch cause its so perfect in other scenarios :P

Which UltraSmooth Cerametallic are you going with? The stock M3 replacement or the M5 clutch with LTW fly?
I was thinking of going with the one with the M5 fly, but think I may pass on that option now. Seems like there's no way it would hold.

wow, hope my clutch doesnt start slipping soon...I guess only time will tell ::Fingers crossed::

well im making 502ft/lbs of tourqe on a mustang dyno and the cerametallic clutch is the best high hp clutch i have ever had. I had a 3 puck exedy in my nissan s13 when i had it and I hated it. the UUC clutch is a night and day difference. It feels completley stock to me
How long have you had yours Ryan?

uh oh. :(
:rofl

Again, Rob has been pretty good in the past, and even diagnoss my problem the first time around... I'm see if he can help out again and figure what the deal is this time around...

I'm actuall still debating to keep the clutch cause its so perfect in other scenarios :P
which flywheel are you running?

Interesting thread...I just got a UUC Ultrasmooth mated to the UUC stage 2 lightweight flywheel. My TT Stage 2 install is not complete just let so I'm hoping it will hold the power once I'm done. What's the recommended break-in period for the UUC Ultrasmooth or is it the same as for other clutches?

I believe Carcrazed mentioned 1k miles.

Just thought I'd share. I've broken in my UUC UltraSmooth, and its deff not holding my power on lightning quick shifts :( I've gone from a rolling first to floored 2-3-4-5... all with a spinning clutch and now acceleration from the car...

I'm hoping its a freak anomaly and Rob might be able to find out why, cause I really like the clutch. I can street drive it better then the Comptech Cluth in my NSX...

But maybe even with the miles, I just got glaze build up...
Slipping clutch in 5th gear with 350 wtq? :shifty Althouh I have less torque and the M5 flywheel, I couldn't get the clutch to slip even in 1st gear. :dunno

Slipping clutch in 5th gear with 350 wtq? :shifty Althouh I have less torque and the M5 flywheel, I couldn't get the clutch to slip even in 1st gear. :dunno
he might have the LTW M5 fly, also.

are you using the ultrasmooth?

he might have the LTW M5 fly, also.

are you using the ultrasmooth?Yes. So far the clutch has hold also more torque than the 2.8l produced.

This UUC clutch is rated to hold more than 650 lb-ft of torque. It shouldn't slip at 350 wtq. I'm curious how this turns out.

Me too. 650 lb-ft with M5 conversion and LTW fly

530 lb-ft for direct fit E36 M3 replacement and stock fly

I'm going for the direct replacement because I can't justify the added cost for something that I really don't want to use with my turbo setup in the first place. The only downside was that the M5 conversion could handle more torque.

...but now this is making me even more confident in my decision to not go ltw fly because it seems to be a problem vs. dual mass?

I already had the Stg. II flywheel with the stock clutch for the E34/M5. It couldn't hold the TS power. The UUC UltraSmooth CeraMetallic is holding up fine so far.

The noise of the FW was minor with my old setup. With the new engine I just had one indicent when it was audible: in my garage, idling in neutral, with A/C on. Even then it was minor. Other then this one indicent I don't hear the FW at all. YMMV.

Where's Rob from UUC to chime in here?

Also interested to hear what Rob has to say, I'll be purchasing my clutch pretty soon here.

I'm currently using Rogue's regular clutch disc and an OE pressure plate. it's holding up fine with about 10k boosted miles and maybe 15k NA miles but I fear that runs at the strip will cook it.

I'm not interested in the uuc setup after reading about members' troubles with it burning up early....I'm going to shy away from that product. if you want to try and set one up, give Rob a call.

I'll most likely call up RE and get something stronger.

don't go to the track till you upgrade! i am on the edge of frying mine and i don't make the torque you do. i almost had to get towed home last time at the track. i am moving to a CM fx400 4 puck. that should be good enough for both of us at the power levels we are at.


also can anyone comment why CM website has a different listing for the 3.0 and 3.2 i thought all m3's (e36) use the same 240mm clutch?

don't go to the track till you upgrade! i am on the edge of frying mine and i don't make the torque you do. i almost had to get towed home last time at the track. i am moving to a CM fx400 4 puck. that should be good enough for both of us at the power levels we are at.


also can anyone comment why CM website has a different listing for the 3.0 and 3.2 i thought all m3's (e36) use the same 240mm clutch?
Drew, I hear ya on that. that's why i wanna upgrade and buy new rubber etc. I'm not ready for the track just yet but I will be, soon.

CM can make you a clutch kit that will retain the sprung hub feature if you want, just ask them or call up RE for the details on it.

If you go with the CM FX400 4 puck, I'm going to be interested in hearing your feedback on how drive-able it is.

thanks,
Ron

Hmm I was going to get the ultra smooth but some of these post are geting me a little worried. Any updates?

Drew, I hear ya on that. that's why i wanna upgrade and buy new rubber etc. I'm not ready for the track just yet but I will be, soon.

CM can make you a clutch kit that will retain the sprung hub feature if you want, just ask them or call up RE for the details on it.

If you go with the CM FX400 4 puck, I'm going to be interested in hearing your feedback on how drive-able it is.

thanks,
Ron


i am thinking of getting a complete new setup made to work together for high hp from bimmerworld. we'll see what happens i may not make it to the track anytime soon (Sal broke his car). so i may not be doing this that soon no need for anything stronger for street for now. but when we get closer to going back to the track i will look into it.

Quite honestly, maybe the clutch needed 500 city miles, not highway... It could be just one bad break in cause these issues... who knows. I'm still happy with the clutch because its so nice 99% of the times... I'm gonna talk to Rob, just been busy. I'll keep everyone posted.

when they say milage they want you to do shifting, not just leaving it in one gear. the best break in is a weekend in any major city.

Hmm I was going to get the ultra smooth but some of these post are geting me a little worried. Any updates?
I wouldn't jump to any conclusions yet. The clutch is too new to judge IMO.

I wouldn't jump to any conclusions yet. The clutch is too new to judge IMO.


man im hoping that was just an isolated incident. i was planning on going with the cerametallic smooth clutch kit as well..

ill keep my options open still..

what about UUCs puck clutch.. despite the slightly harsher engagement anyone else running that one and having great success with it?

How much torque are making? I tried the SPEC Stage 3/4 last year. It didn't more than a couple weeks for me.


sorry, i don't know of the top of my head. i just know it is the stock dinan S/C Powerdyne setup .... but the horsepower should be around 340 hp, not whp!

i have not dyno my car yet, will be soon.

How long have you had yours Ryan?

about a month now wo I have some driving to do to get to 1k. I hope when i get to that point, it doesnt start slipping

about a month now wo I have some driving to do to get to 1k. I hope when i get to that point, it doesnt start slipping
Okay boyz. So at this point no one has really broken in their clutch yet. We should hold off judgement until these things are broken in. It would be nice of someone from UUC would jump in here and let us know what's up though, especially since there are a lot of prospectful buyers in this thread...(and READING this thread! :D) :dunno

about a month now wo I have some driving to do to get to 1k. I hope when i get to that point, it doesnt start slipping
Do you have have the M5 conversion and the UUC stage 2 LTW fly?

Okay boyz. So at this point no one has really broken in their clutch yet. We should hold off judgement until these things are broken in. It would be nice of someone from UUC would jump in here and let us know what's up though, especially since there are a lot of prospectful buyers in this thread...(and READING this thread! :D) :dunno

Correct... UUC is usually pretty good, and it could lead to break in procedures. I did wait for 1k but I do a lil city driving... so we'll see what Rob has to say. I know Rob, he'll take care of everything usually by asking me to drive to his shop, they take it out and examine it, and do any warranty work if need be. Rob and UUC stand by their stuff. Its why I said I love this clutch, cause I'm sure its designed to handle the 650lbft claim it has!

-Charlie.

about a month now wo I have some driving to do to get to 1k. I hope when i get to that point, it doesnt start slipping
I hope so. I'd hate to see a clutch designed to handle 650tq slip under hard acceleration!

During the break-in procedures is it okay to drive hard on it?

you should baby the clutch for the entire break in period.

you should baby the clutch for the entire break in period.
That's what I thought... :nono

Another thumbs up for ClutchMasters. :buttrock I highly recommend their products.
I've had it for a while now and its still holding. I'm on a stage4 (FX400)- 4-puck sprung hub. Pedal feel is heavier than normal and slight noise on down shifting at lower gears. It's not an ON/OFF but not stock either. I didn;t expect a 4 puck to behave like stock clutch so I'm fine with it.
http://jonsibal.com/gallery/albums/album06/clutchmasters1.jpg
http://jonsibal.com/gallery/albums/album06/clutchmasters2.jpg
http://jonsibal.com/gallery/albums/album06/clutchmasters3.jpg
http://jonsibal.com/gallery/albums/album06/clutchmasters4.jpg
We'll see how it will do with high boost. I really like the twin disc set up from CM if I ever need to upgrade.

Louis of CM was also a great help. Just tell him how much TQ you are expecting to put down and he will set you up with the proper clutch.


This is a great thread! Thanks! I will have to give Luis a call and tell him George@ICS sent me to buy the FX800. I wonder how long my Clutchmasters Stage 4 will last. LOL!

Cameron, how come your stage 4 looks different from mine? Did you get any more confirmation on this? Do you have more info on your current CM set up.

I have the UUC kit with the stage 2 flywheel and a 4 puck sintered metal disc(same as clutchmasters).

It holds great at the track at 400whp. I broke it in for 1000 miles, and then it was 4k rpm launches off the 2 step rev limiter. More info to come in the following weeks @500+whp.

http://www.maximumpsi.com/images/land/turbo/m3/install/UUCflywheel.jpg
http://www.maximumpsi.com/images/land/turbo/m3/install/4puck.jpg
http://www.maximumpsi.com/images/land/turbo/m3/install/pplate.jpg

Mike, I never did ask you....how does it drive?

Like a strong performance clutch.

It's a little grabby, just how I like it. I opted to go with the 4 puck over the 6 or the cerametallic for the abuse I planned on giving it. I also went with the E34 style flywheel for more torque capacity. If this has holding issues it will be time for a twin disc.

damn my uuc cerametallic is in the mail....i hope it was just a break in problem people were having.

Like a strong performance clutch.

It's a little grabby, just how I like it. I opted to go with the 4 puck over the 6 or the cerametallic for the abuse I planned on giving it. I also went with the E34 style flywheel for more torque capacity. If this has holding issues it will be time for a twin disc.
good to hear. if you don't mind, I'd like to take it around the parking lot when I get back to try it out.

-Ron

Another thumbs up for ClutchMasters. :buttrock I highly recommend their products.
I've had it for a while now and its still holding. I'm on a stage4 (FX400)- 4-puck sprung hub. Pedal feel is heavier than normal and slight noise on down shifting at lower gears. It's not an ON/OFF but not stock either. I didn;t expect a 4 puck to behave like stock clutch so I'm fine with it.

We'll see how it will do with high boost. I really like the twin disc set up from CM if I ever need to upgrade.

Louis of CM was also a great help. Just tell him how much TQ you are expecting to put down and he will set you up with the proper clutch.




Cameron, how come your stage 4 looks different from mine? Did you get any more confirmation on this? Do you have more info on your current CM set up.
Jon, I checked your site but didn't seen any performance figures. what numbers are you putting down with that kit?

Do you have have the M5 conversion and the UUC stage 2 LTW fly?

I have the e34 m5 conversion and the stage 2 LTW so you are correct

EEEEeeee36
I hope so. I'd hate to see a clutch designed to handle 650tq slip under hard acceleration!

During the break-in procedures is it okay to drive hard on it?

after the clutch install, we put the car up on the dyno so no official break in was done

A break-in on these sintered discs is very important to get proper engagement. Failure to do so can result in chatter and/or slippage.

A break-in on these sintered discs is very important to get proper engagement. Failure to do so can result in chatter and/or slippage.
what are the proper methods?

what are the proper methods?

you should baby the clutch for the entire break in period.

For 1000 miles you are supposed to lightly engage and disengage the clutch. Rev match if you can...This is standard break in for most any clutch I've ever had. :thumbup:

I'm going to get the Stage 3+. They will make it without the sprung hub if you want to keep the stock flywheel, and it says it will be good for 650ftlbs.

http://www.specclutch.com/

The Stage 2 I was running held at 500whp on the dyno. We'll see if this one lives up to some track pounding.

interesting news from their site on the 3+ setup.

does anyone know what the typical street price of that setup is?

spec has it for $670 from their site.

Clutch masters is the way to go, tell them your power and what you want to do (drag,drift,street.....)and they will set you up although a little pricey they are the best IMO.

I'm going to get the Stage 3+. They will make it without the sprung hub if you want to keep the stock flywheel, and it says it will be good for 650ftlbs.
Paradigm Guy was running the Spec Stage 3 and he said it slipped like no one's business. Whats to make you think the 3+ would hold that much better?

Paradigm Guy was running the Spec Stage 3 and he said it slipped like no one's business. Whats to make you think the 3+ would hold that much better?
completely different material.

Clutch masters is the way to go, tell them your power and what you want to do (drag,drift,street.....)and they will set you up although a little pricey they are the best IMO.
Ulysses, that was my biggest turn off though they do seem to be the best out there. I don't want to spend $1k on a clutch kit when I may change out my transmission in 6 months. :dunno

i never liked spec clutches. i never had one myself but EVERYONE i know that has had one has had nothing but problems, and i am not talking BMW specific.

Paradigm Guy was running the Spec Stage 3 and he said it slipped like no one's business. Whats to make you think the 3+ would hold that much better?

A Stage 3 or a "3/4" which I would assume is a Stage 4 because Stage 1-4 use the same pressure plate just different disks.

From what Spec says the 3+ is the badass of the clutches, and uses the stage 5 pressure plate as well as a new material.

Also, many other factors could come into play as to why a clutch didn't hold power.
The way the clutch was installed is huge. The oil from your skin shouldn't be allowed to get on the material let alone lying it on a greasy floor.

-Were all the pressure plate bolts tightened equally/evenly.
-Break in period
-Condition of Flywheel

To say that a clutch won't hold the power, or is a bad design isn't fair.

The 3+ is the new hotness, and compared to other clutches it's cheap as hell.

i never liked spec clutches. i never had one myself but EVERYONE i know that has had one has had nothing but problems, and i am not talking BMW specific.
interesting, I was hearing the same from other sources, predominantly bmw enthusiasts.

I've never heard anything negative about Clutch Masters though.

Does anyone have anything to say about ACT?

what are the proper methods?

Just have to take it easy for ~1000 miles. You can't install it and go out to the track and sidestep the clutch.

FYI, Clutchmasters, RPS, Spec, etc... A lot of these companies use the same components in their kits, especially the sintered discs. I bought a rps 4 puck disc and it was identical to my stage 4 clutchmasters disc in the rampage.

A Stage 3 or a "3/4" which I would assume is a Stage 4 because Stage 1-4 use the same pressure plate just different disks.

From what Spec says the 3+ is the badass of the clutches, and uses the stage 5 pressure plate as well as a new material.

Also, many other factors could come into play as to why a clutch didn't hold power.
The way the clutch was installed is huge. The oil from your skin shouldn't be allowed to get on the material let alone lying it on a greasy floor.

-Were all the pressure plate bolts tightened equally/evenly.
-Break in period
-Condition of Flywheel

To say that a clutch won't hold the power, or is a bad design isn't fair.

The 3+ is the new hotness, and compared to other clutches it's cheap as hell.
Yeah, I'm running an E34 M5 Stage 3/4 with a Stage 2 UUC flywheel. It was supposed to hold 650+. They might have even rated it higher than that, I don't remember. Either way, I only dynoed at 544 torque and it didn't even come close to holding it. The flywheel was new and I had about 1K miles on it before the dyno.

I don't get much traction in 1st or 2nd, and as soon as I start to get a little traction in 3rd, my clutch slips.

I wouldn't put another SPEC clutch in my car if they gave it to me for free. It seems like it would be a waste of effort for the install only to have it slip again. And their customer service was lacking to say the least.

do you think it was overrated or do you think it's possibly due to the thinner flywheel flexing?

Awesome thread guys; keep it coming. T-4 weeks to 6sp conversion; this thread is helping a lot. :thumbup:

Ulysses, that was my biggest turn off though they do seem to be the best out there. I don't want to spend $1k on a clutch kit when I may change out my transmission in 6 months. :dunno

A $1000 Way to low for what I got. But Mine is a prototype and the best clutch I ever felt for not being super grabby but can take abuse and alot of HP.

Does anyone have anything to say about ACT?

I talked to ACT yesterday, if they do what they say and make it, we will be offering ACT clutches next month.

Yeah, I'm running an E34 M5 Stage 3/4 with a Stage 2 UUC flywheel. It was supposed to hold 650+. They might have even rated it higher than that, I don't remember. Either way, I only dynoed at 544 torque and it didn't even come close to holding it. The flywheel was new and I had about 1K miles on it before the dyno.

I don't get much traction in 1st or 2nd, and as soon as I start to get a little traction in 3rd, my clutch slips.

I wouldn't put another SPEC clutch in my car if they gave it to me for free. It seems like it would be a waste of effort for the install only to have it slip again. And their customer service was lacking to say the least.
Do realize that the 544 rwtq shouldn't be compared to the UUC 650 rating as the 650 is supposed to be at the flywheel.

But technically you still should be ok with a setup rated at 650.

Just wanted to make sure no one was getting confused as I know normally rw numbers are the standard around here.

I just bought the cerametalic from UUC as well. I was using the M5 clutch but it started slipping. Rob assured me it should hold the power on my car fine. By the way I am upgrading my rear crank seal at the same time. There is a BMW motorsport rear seal that is more robust than the stock unit.

Awesome thread guys; keep it coming. T-4 weeks to 6sp conversion; this thread is helping a lot. :thumbup:
which 6 spd are you getting? E36 or E46?

---

A $1000 Way to low for what I got. But Mine is a prototype and the best clutch I ever felt for not being super grabby but can take abuse and alot of HP.

true but you're putting out more power then I would know what to do with. :stickoutt

---

I talked to ACT yesterday, if they do what they say and make it, we will be offering ACT clutches next month.

great, do you have a time table from them yet?

Do realize that the 544 rwtq shouldn't be compared to the UUC 650 rating as the 650 is supposed to be at the flywheel.

But technically you still should be ok with a setup rated at 650.

Just wanted to make sure no one was getting confused as I know normally rw numbers are the standard around here.

true but at a 17% loss from 650 , you're still looking at 540 lb/tq. what he's stating still applies, as you stated, but where is the confusion since these are all flywheel power specs?

Yeah, I'm running an E34 M5 Stage 3/4 with a Stage 2 UUC flywheel. It was supposed to hold 650+.

What did the disc look like? Was it a 4 puck, 6 puck or sintered disk? Did you happen to ask what pressure plate it was?

I know that the E36 pressure plates are all the same except for the Stage 3+ and 5.

I'm going to order the 3+ on Monday, and when I call, I will ask about your setup.

which 6 spd are you getting? E36 or E46?

E46 M3 with custom driveshaft. I am looking into either an aluminum driveshaft or carbon fiber. Suprisingly the carbon fiber driveshaft was only pricing out around $700.

nice, you're gonna enjoy it.

E46 M3 with custom driveshaft.
Not to get to OT, but how PNP is the E46 M3 transmission?

$700 carbon fiber driveshaft is pretty good price. Who makes it? I think ACPT makes one for the E46 M3 and retails for $1349.00.

I think ACPT quoted me $1200 for the E36 M3 driveshaft but they needed a donor to produce it. I was looking into this back when I twisted my driveshaft late 2002.

The factory driveshafts are aluminum or some sort of aluminum composite.

What did the disc look like? Was it a 4 puck, 6 puck or sintered disk? Did you happen to ask what pressure plate it was?

I know that the E36 pressure plates are all the same except for the Stage 3+ and 5.

I'm going to order the 3+ on Monday, and when I call, I will ask about your setup.
I don't remember, and for some reason it's the only thing that I don't have pictures of. But since it was the M5 Stage 3/4, it was supposed to hold. When I called them, their only response was, "Hmm, that clutch should hold the power. Go ahead and pull it out and send it to us, we'll take a look at it." I was about to deploy though, so that wasn't an option.

Not to get to OT, but how PNP is the E46 M3 transmission?
Direct fit PNP - the bell housing on the E46 tranny bolts right up to the M52 (if you think about it the M52 and M54 are almost the same engine; same block).

Here is a link to the process:
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/98M3/upgrades/E46M3_6SPD/index.htm

$700 carbon fiber driveshaft is pretty good price. Who makes it? I think ACPT makes one for the E46 M3 and retails for $1349.00.

I think ACPT quoted me $1200 for the E36 M3 driveshaft but they needed a donor to produce it. I was looking into this back when I twisted my driveshaft late 2002.

The factory driveshafts are aluminum or some sort of aluminum composite.
Yeah it is, considering that Zionsville wants $600 for their heavy-ass OEM driveshaft. :rolleyes

Yeah it is ACPT. The product manager quoted me approximately $700 for a one-piece, and all they needed me to do is fill out the information sheet and drop them a credit card number. Maybe they've done more E36 driveshafts since they quoted you, or maybe they have their production process down even better.

Factory are aluminum? Huh...last person that I read that pulled out their driveshaft it weighed about 23#...the aluminum ones at the driveshaftshop are only 11#. :dunno I am probably leaning more towards CF just due to the fact that if it breaks (IF you can break it) it just 'brooms' and it won't penetrate your floor panel. Safety first. :thumbup:

OT
Hey, anyone know where to look for production codes on a 97 328i? I did a burn out after our dyno day today and it left two very distinct and even rubber strips, with my ASC off of course. I am wondering if the person who originally bought my car new had the LSD added/ordered it with it because of this. My car has every other option offered for a US Spec 97 328i so I wouldn't be surprised if it has the LSD. What code is it? TIA
/OT

So you use an E46 transmission, then obviously E46 clutch, flywheel. What's the price of an E46 transmission?

nice, you're gonna enjoy it.
A lot more than my slushbox!!!! :D

Yeah, I am REALLY looking forward to it; especially the higher torque multiplication going to shorter gearing.

So you use an E46 transmission, then obviously E46 clutch, flywheel. What's the price of an E46 transmission?
It varies.. I've seen them as high as $2000, but I've seen them for around $1000. I've got a line on one for $1200...you just have to call ALL of the wrecking yards and ALL of the tranny shops to see if you can find a good shop that will not rip you and who will stand behind their products. :thumbup:

Yeah it is, considering that Zionsville wants $600 for their heavy-ass OEM driveshaft. :rolleyes

Yeah it is ACPT. The product manager quoted me approximately $700 for a one-piece, and all they needed me to do is fill out the information sheet and drop them a credit card number. Maybe they've done more E36 driveshafts since they quoted you, or maybe they have their production process down even better.

Factory are aluminum? Huh...last person that I read that pulled out their driveshaft it weighed about 23#...the aluminum ones at the driveshaftshop are only 11#. :dunno I am probably leaning more towards CF just due to the fact that if it breaks (IF you can break it) it just 'brooms' and it won't penetrate your floor panel. Safety first. :thumbup:



They always had a excuse they say they can make them, then when you tell them you where sending them a drive shaft they say wake a couple months we should be ready.

Motor sport recycling (MSR) should have heavy duty drive shafts soon
They are being made now aluminum and can handle tons of power. Im sure Bill or Ron will post when they are ready:D

They always had a excuse they say they can make them, then when you tell them you where sending them a drive shaft they say wake a couple months we should be ready.

Motor sport recycling (MSR) should have heavy duty drive shafts soon
They are being made now aluminum and can handle tons of power. Im sure Bill or Ron will post when they are ready:D
Aluminum Driveshafts flex a lot more than steel/CF do - 20% vs 5%. In your opinion is that a good thing or a bad thing for the amount of power you'll be subjecting to it?

Also the problem is not just being able to get the driveshafts, it's being able to get one in the correct size. The one that Zionsville made is a specific size that is needed to make the E46 gearbox work with the E36 space. Are the ones that MSR is making just for the standard E36 size?

They always had a excuse they say they can make them, then when you tell them you where sending them a drive shaft they say wake a couple months we should be ready.

Motor sport recycling (MSR) should have heavy duty drive shafts soon
They are being made now aluminum and can handle tons of power. Im sure Bill or Ron will post when they are ready:D
BTW the email I got from ACPT said that manufacturing time is 2-3 weeks, and they don't need an actual driveshaft; they just need to know the dimensions and also the type of end-yokes being used. This was as of the end of March this year. Have you guys communicated with ACPT more recently?

BTW the email I got from ACPT said that manufacturing time is 2-3 weeks, and they don't need an actual driveshaft; they just need to know the dimensions and also the type of end-yokes being used. This was as of the end of March this year. Have you guys communicated with ACPT more recently?

Not since Jan the problem they and other companys run into is the ends of our D S they are odd(trans out put) ball and then the two piece makes it more difficult because you need a U joint at trans end to make it a one piece.

The ones MSR have is e36 M3 only

I believe you want some flex it will absorb the high rpm launces and absorb the shock sent to the rear

I believe you want some flex it will absorb the high rpm launces and absorb the shock sent to the rear
...thus not ripping teeth off of gears in the diff :D (AKA 'pulling-a-George').

I'll watch for MSR and see what they come out with. Hopefully they'll come out with something that rivals the Zionsville piece. :thumbup:

I'm confident that with the proper dimensions, a shorter shaft can be made to order.

remember, I'm not a part of MSR, the owners are just very close friends of mine.

-Ron

I'm confident that with the proper dimensions, a shorter shaft can be made to order.

remember, I'm not a part of MSR, the owners are just very close friends of mine.

-Ron
After MSR Basically you will have the info before any one else:evil2

After MSR Basically you will have the info before any one else:evil2
well I can't argue with that statement. :cool

ACPT is about 40 miles south from me. I'll try and donate a driveshaft from a 1995 and post 1996 M3s since they have different flanges that bolt onto the driveshaft.

The factory driveshaft feels light to me but I didn't weigh it when I was replacing one. It will not attract magnets though so it can't be steel like some domestic cars.

Intresting

read the first couple of pages.

I would forgo the ceramitallic and go for the new Ferramic material. They can take punishment (survive at least 50 drag launches at 5500 rpm) before being rebuilt. Survive 800 lbs/ft of torque without issues (I don't have that kind of power but a I know of a few folks that do). The ceramitallics would be hardpressed to live 10 passes at that ;)

Also if you have the cash... Multiplate Carbon/carbon clutches. Survive alot of power, low wear levels and feel slip just like OEM. ACT, Exedy and the top dogs Tilton.

Intresting

read the first couple of pages.

I would forgo the ceramitallic and go for the new Ferramic material. They can take punishment (survive at least 50 drag launches at 5500 rpm) before being rebuilt. Survive 800 lbs/ft of torque without issues (I don't have that kind of power but a I know of a few folks that do). The ceramitallics would be hardpressed to live 10 passes at that ;)

Also if you have the cash... Multiplate Carbon/carbon clutches. Survive alot of power, low wear levels and feel slip just like OEM. ACT, Exedy and the top dogs Tilton.
Good info to look into figgie. Thanks!

well I can't argue with that statement. :cool
Then you keep me up to date on that and I'll get that gearbox sourced ASAP! :D

I also ran into a cool article of a guy who used a Euro E36 sub-frame and a diff from an E34 M5 so he would have a "large case" diff in the rear end (like the Euro M3 and E46 M3 have). The E36 US Spec has a medium-small diff.

Then you keep me up to date on that and I'll get that gearbox sourced ASAP! :D

I also ran into a cool article of a guy who used a Euro E36 sub-frame and a diff from an E34 M5 so he would have a "large case" diff in the rear end (like the Euro M3 and E46 M3 have). The E36 US Spec has a medium-small diff.
Deal! :D

so what clutches are known to be able to handle 600whp?

edit: cause im thinking now that my uuc ultrasmooth is going to get destroyed...from reading what people said. rob said something about the clutch being rated for 530 but it could handle more. but from reading other people's experiences it looks like i might be in trouble.

Well I am getting confused now because I still have the clutch I ordered from AA but left my flywheel stock. It has held up to 450-500rwhp and over 200 passes at the drag strip. Plus its been beaten so hard for 40,000+miles(brake stands, drifting, drag racing) Its nice and grabby. I dont like the stock clutch feel I like the racing clutch feel even for traffic driving. It makes me know my car and feel it tie into whats really going on better. There is no sign of it slipping but I dont have full traction till 4th gear on nice street rubber. I ran my 11.4 with it in my car and going for a faster pass this saturday. Is my car somehow evil because it seems like my motor and other various parts(clutch) are holding up better even though they are beat 3 times harder? Please explain and also I am now very curious what clutch I actually have since AA likes to take other stuff and put their own name on it?

Well I am getting confused now because I still have the clutch I ordered from AA but left my flywheel stock. It has held up to 450-500rwhp and over 200 passes at the drag strip. Plus its been beaten so hard for 40,000+miles(brake stands, drifting, drag racing) Its nice and grabby. I dont like the stock clutch feel I like the racing clutch feel even for traffic driving. It makes me know my car and feel it tie into whats really going on better. There is no sign of it slipping but I dont have full traction till 4th gear on nice street rubber. I ran my 11.4 with it in my car and going for a faster pass this saturday. Is my car somehow evil because it seems like my motor and other various parts(clutch) are holding up better even though they are beat 3 times harder? Please explain and also I am now very curious what clutch I actually have since AA likes to take other stuff and put their own name on it?
I'm not sure where you are going with that...but we have been discussing the Cerametallic clutch from UUC possibly having issues. You don't have that clutch?

I'm not sure where you are going with that...but we have been discussing the Cerametallic clutch from UUC possibly having issues. You don't have that clutch?
Ok but what clutch do I have? What I am getting at is I want to buy the same clutch again but not from AA instead directly from who ever they bought it from. Also that maybe this clutch is an answer instead of the UUC. My point is that I am looking for a good clutch just like everyone else that will hold the power except I dont want the stock clutch feel I want the harder ON/OFF feel. I simply wanted to find out what I am technically running and what I should look into in the future when this one goes out.

Ok but what clutch do I have? What I am getting at is I want to buy the same clutch again but not from AA instead directly from who ever they bought it from. Also that maybe this clutch is an answer instead of the UUC. My point is that I am looking for a good clutch just like everyone else that will hold the power except I dont want the stock clutch feel I want the harder ON/OFF feel. I simply wanted to find out what I am technically running and what I should look into in the future when this one goes out.
Okay that makes more sense; thanks for clarifying. I don't know the answer but I'm sure it will get answered... ;)

Okay that makes more sense; thanks for clarifying. I don't know the answer but I'm sure it will get answered... ;)
Yes I hope so too I want to further my knowledge about these clutches and some of the right answers. I love this forum its my home :buttrock

Yes I hope so too I want to further my knowledge about these clutches and some of the right answers. I love this forum its my home :buttrock

IIRC European Car tested an AA clutch. It was a modified Sach's. Since the pp looked fairly stock in appearence, it was tested...the clamping force was 2600lb's definately modified. I have this clutch also using the 6 puck disc, it has never thought about slipping. My release bearing was just destroyed, resulting in 2 broke teeth on the AA PP....it was still holding the power.

Why hasn't Rob from UUC shine in on this thread? He's usually pretty quick to respond to UUC clutch questions.

Why hasn't Rob from UUC shine in on this thread? He's usually pretty quick to respond to UUC clutch questions.


what clutch do you have?

would you recommend the clutch masters fx600 for a tt stage 2 or the fx700?

what clutch do you have?

would you recommend the clutch masters fx600 for a tt stage 2 or the fx700?

I have the UUC UltraSmooth Cerametallic that is being discussed in this thread. I just installed it when I installed the TT Stage 2 turbo kit. I'm still waiting for the ECU back from NickG so I still haven't even driven the car yet. I'm also using the UUC Stage 2 Lightweight Flywheel with this combo. I guess I'll find out how the clutch holds after I hit the 1000 mile break-in mark. I'm hoping it's just a fluke with some of the other owners...

Well I am getting confused now because I still have the clutch I ordered from AA but left my flywheel stock. It has held up to 450-500rwhp and over 200 passes at the drag strip. Plus its been beaten so hard for 40,000+miles(brake stands, drifting, drag racing) Its nice and grabby. I dont like the stock clutch feel I like the racing clutch feel even for traffic driving. It makes me know my car and feel it tie into whats really going on better. There is no sign of it slipping but I dont have full traction till 4th gear on nice street rubber. I ran my 11.4 with it in my car and going for a faster pass this saturday. Is my car somehow evil because it seems like my motor and other various parts(clutch) are holding up better even though they are beat 3 times harder? Please explain and also I am now very curious what clutch I actually have since AA likes to take other stuff and put their own name on it?
Clutches are rated in torque. How much torque are you making?

Clutches are rated in torque. How much torque are you making?
The same if not more torque thats how my turbo is speced at least. I make nice low end torque too. Bad news :( My hood flew up on my tonight and I need a new one and a new windshield. My clutch also decided to slip tonight in 4th gear after burning rubber all the way from 1-3rd. I am at least making 500rwtq and its instant like a roots style charger.

I am at least making 500rwtq and its instant like a roots style charger.

You should dyno the car and get some hard numbers.

I am at least making 500rwtq and its instant like a roots style charger.
Ummmmmm...you have a Mitsu 20g turbo. :confused Must dyno your car. No more claiming.

on an AA kit? I didn't think those kits broke 400 out of the box. :dunno

I am at least making 500rwtq

:rolleyes

Ummmmmm...you have a Mitsu 20g turbo. :confused Must dyno your car. No more claiming.
x2........................500wtq is not just big, but huge.

The same if not more torque thats how my turbo is speced at least. I make nice low end torque too. Bad news :( My hood flew up on my tonight and I need a new one and a new windshield. My clutch also decided to slip tonight in 4th gear after burning rubber all the way from 1-3rd. I am at least making 500rwtq and its instant like a roots style charger.
So you haven't dyno'd your car then? Where did you come up with these numbers? :confused

WOW ITS NOT A MITSU AA KIT 20G ANYMORE!!!!! The only thing left from AA is the intercooler and the Exhaust manifold which I ported like hell and gasket matched. Its running on pure 100 octane now with massive timing. Just for you guys though I will get it dynoed. I am having DA tune the car so that should add another 30-40hp on the dyno. I trap 125+ in the 1/4 also and if I remember correctly mike trapped 117 with 400rwhp sooooooo do the math lol. I dont mind you guys being skeptical because it will only make me do things even better and keep proving things.:D Unfortunatly I had an incedent last night at its going to have to wait a bit. My CF hood flew open smashed my winshield and cracked itself in like 5 places.:( So thats first priority I am still going to try and drag it on saturday depending on teh clutch.

x2........................500wtq is not just big, but huge.
I dont even live in TX or LA and 500rwtq is child play. Every friday/Saturday night we have at least 5 600+rwhp cars and many other that are well above 400rwhp.

I dont even live in TX or LA and 500rwtq is child play. Every friday/Saturday night we have at least 5 600+rwhp cars and many other that are well above 400rwhp.

Stop it. 500wtq is huge on an E36.

Now you're a baller, so spend $100 to get the dyno runs before you post numbers.

Stop it. 500wtq is huge on an E36.

Now you're a baller, so spend $100 to get the dyno runs before you post numbers.
Im nowhere near a baller. I live with my dad in the crappy side of town. I spend every dime on this car because its all I enjoy. There is nothing I have driven that I like more except the brand new M6 but I could not afford that anyway. I am having a new winshield installed and trying to borrow a hood from a friend so I can run on Sat. Then the following week I am going to go get a tune and dyno at the same time ok.

I dont even live in TX or LA and 500rwtq is child play. Every friday/Saturday night we have at least 5 600+rwhp cars and many other that are well above 400rwhp.
Have they dyno'd? :lol

Have they dyno'd? :lol
Yes they all have dynod on the same dyno hahahaha very funny.:stickoutt
1. 03 cobra with KB 695rwhp
2. 03 Cobra Whippled 645rwhp
3. 02 Z06 Procharged 600rwhp
4. 66 Procharged stang 600+rwhp
5. 03 Cobra Ported Eaton + nitrous

The list can go on maybe Ill video tape it one of these weekends if ya want they usually all come out too.

ok to bring back on topic! the fx700 is a dual disk race (on/off) style clutch. where the fx600 is primarily the same but it is supposed to be a streetable version. i am leaning heavily to ordering the fx600 cause it is the best of both worlds.


oh and the fx400 (stage 4), although will "hold" more power, it is not intended for drag high friction use. so they were saying to go with the stage 3 kevlar or the streetable twin disk. and since the twin disk in only a few hundred more i may just go with that so it will take what ever it is i throw at it.

Just wondering how does the 500rwhp M3 fair against those above mention cars? any Highway rolls? I'd rather see videos of those than a dyno, I could careless what you put to the ground.

I am also looking at clutches, I thought I had it down to the UUC ultrasmooth cerametallic. These post are making me think twice. Can anyone confirm that the clutch is strong enough for a TT stage 1 or 2. thank you. I'm not talking about launching the hell outta the car, could careless about 1/4 times, more interested in spirited driving every now and then.

Just wondering how does the 500rwhp M3 fair against those above mention cars? any Highway rolls? I'd rather see videos of those than a dyno, I could careless what you put to the ground.

I am also looking at clutches, I thought I had it down to the UUC ultrasmooth cerametallic. These post are making me think twice. Can anyone confirm that the clutch is strong enough for a TT stage 1 or 2. thank you. I'm not talking about launching the hell outta the car, could careless about 1/4 times, more interested in spirited driving every now and then.
Pm me or aim me ill show you the videos :D xx2fast4u916xx

ok to bring back on topic! the fx700 is a dual disk race (on/off) style clutch. where the fx600 is primarily the same but it is supposed to be a streetable version. i am leaning heavily to ordering the fx600 cause it is the best of both worlds.


oh and the fx400 (stage 4), although will "hold" more power, it is not intended for drag high friction use. so they were saying to go with the stage 3 kevlar or the streetable twin disk. and since the twin disk in only a few hundred more i may just go with that so it will take what ever it is i throw at it.
Drew, you want to avoid kevlar lined discs if you want to see the strip. kevlar doesn't handle slip very well and cannot be brought back to life once it is glazed.

oh and the fx400 (stage 4), although will "hold" more power
More power than what? (than the FX600?:confused )

Drew, you want to avoid kevlar lined discs if you want to see the strip. kevlar doesn't handle slip very well and cannot be brought back to life once it is glazed.
Oh man please listen to this guy. I have the carbon/kevlar clutch from rouge, I started to get a squealing on engagement...apparently i have glazed it a little bit already :eyecrazy . I drop it into every gear and only slip the clutch when i ease it into first gear. I was soo worrried when i was told it was glazed a little bit..once its glazed it can never come back :eyecrazy

More power than what? (than the FX600?:confused )

the 300, the 400 can hold more then 300 but not take the abuse of drag racing.

the 300, the 400 can hold more then 300 but not take the abuse of drag racing.
I see. Thanks for the info.

sorry to bring this back but i just wanted to know if any of the people who just had their cerametallics installed when this thread started have broken in the clutches and how they are holding up. are they actually holding the power or is everyone experiencing the same slipping that carcrazed4life was? is anyone running a feramic clutch setup at all?

mine is still holding up fine. I spoke to Rob about 2 weeks ago and he told me that he hasnt really heard of the Clutchs slipping.

Mine is doing well so far at 9psi...still tuning though and adding boost.

Drew, you want to avoid kevlar lined discs if you want to see the strip. kevlar doesn't handle slip very well and cannot be brought back to life once it is glazed.
This is correct and if you dont slip your clutch some at the track your car will see drive train breakage.

This is correct and if you dont slip your clutch some at the track your car will see drive train breakage.
whadayou know neway...don't listen to this guy, ricer for sure!!!!

:D

whadayou know neway...don't listen to this guy, ricer for sure!!!!

:D
^^^^

That was me, my bad...but cc has nothing!! for sure ricer!!!

mine is still holding up fine. I spoke to Rob about 2 weeks ago and he told me that he hasnt really heard of the Clutchs slipping.


Mine is doing well so far at 9psi...still tuning though and adding boost.


thanks for the responses guys. is anyone else running the cerametallic? so far it seems like it might have just been an isolated issue with carcrazed4life's clutch. maybe he got a bad one?:dunno has anyone else had negative issues with it?

Installed mine but the car has just gotten it's bugs worked out and I haven't been able to drive it enough to break in the clutch properly, so no hard driving for me so far. I'll report back when I'm able to go full boost on her.

Clutch is holding up great; no problems, even in the 10+ boost range.