I have a 1999 BMW 528i, and am new to the repairs of it.

I just purchased the vehicle and had a mechanic check over the car, and it needs a couple of things, driver-side front strut top mount, integral link, and rear rotors and pads.

I have looked online and called the dealearship, and just want to know what are the best brakes to get for the car. I have seen rotors from Brembo, OEM, Zimmerman, Cross-Drilled, Non-Cross Drilled, and pads from Axxis and Pagid. Which ones should I get? Also, I have seen kits online for front and back brakes (rotors, pads, sensors) for around $255, but the mechanic said I only need rear. Should I get the front parts as well, and just have them, because the rear is looking to cost around $190. I don't do any racing, just more for pleasure and show.

for your use, I would stick with stock. Usually the rears will last twice the milage of the front. Whether you buy both, or just the rears is up to you and the costs. I would not replace the fronts until you need to (i.e., don't throw away good $$). There are numerous online sources that will sell the OEM parts at substantially less than the dealer (Turner, Bimmerworld, BMP, VAC, ....) You should also join the BMW CCA - you get a 10% discount at most dealers, as well as a good magazine with lots of classifieds in the back.

Ok, now I need front brakes. An independant shop replaced the rear brakes with all OEM equipment, but after getting to work today, I noticed the brake pad sensor light on. How long do I have to replace the brakes, as the light came on this morning?

I wanted to get OEM rotors with Axxis Deluxe pads, but I saw this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E39-525-525i-528-528i-BRAKE-PAD-DISC-ROTOR-KIT-BK6_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ015QQitem Z250019764100QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW ,
but it comes with Mintex pads. If I get this kit, should I replace the OEM pads that were just installed in the rear? Do you all recommend this kit? Are the Mintex pads good? I want just as good of quality as OEM, or better.

What tools do I need to replace the pads, rotors, and sensor?

Ok, now I need front brakes. An independant shop replaced the rear brakes with all OEM equipment, but after getting to work today, I noticed the brake pad sensor light on. How long do I have to replace the brakes, as the light came on this morning?

I wanted to get OEM rotors with Axxis Deluxe pads, but I saw this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-E39-525-525i-528-528i-BRAKE-PAD-DISC-ROTOR-KIT-BK6_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ015QQitem Z250019764100QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW ,
but it comes with Mintex pads. If I get this kit, should I replace the OEM pads that were just installed in the rear? Do you all recommend this kit? Are the Mintex pads good? I want just as good of quality as OEM, or better.

What tools do I need to replace the pads, rotors, and sensor?

I used that exact kit on my car several months back and have had no problems. My fronts were x drilled with Pagid pads and they dusted like hell. I went with blank rotors all around and used the Mintex C pads. No problems whatsoever and they dust way less than before. Stopping power is just as good once I broke them in a bit.

Make sure you replace both wear sensors (front driver's side and rear passenger side) as they break easily. Once replaced, switch the key to position 2 for about 30 seconds and the light should reset.

Do a search in the e39 section for "Brakes, so easy a child can do it" for a write up I did when I changed mine.

Good Luck,
JJ

What tools do I need?

Also, can you expound a little bit on removing the screws from the caliper? Anything special, or does it just unscrew?

Will I need to add more brake fluid, or do anything with that, after I finish the brake job?

Please try and answer all of the questions.

the answers to a lot of your questions, the ones that you've asked and the ones that you may ask in the future, are all documented in various DIYs around here and other places. brake jobs for BMWs are mostly all the same. i recommend that you check out www.bimmerdiy.com and bmwtips.com. Even take a look at brake job DIY for other models as they may have more details than what you might find for the E39 (5 -series).

also, if you plan on doing anything else with your car, your money is well spent if you buy the Bentley Manual (2 volumes).

if after reading those DIY pages, you still have questions, feel free to post back here with specific questions... there are a lot of very helpful people here, and i try to be when I can (my own knowledge is limited compared to others here).

That DIY site does not list the tools, nor any of the questions I asked, so I would still like to have my questions answered.

I plan on buying a Bentley manual eventually.

Basic tools will be needed, but be sure you have the following:

7mm allen wrench for the caliper bolts
5mm allen wrench for the rotor set screw
C-clamp to compress the brake piston.
Needle nose pliers for the brake wear sensor
Brake cleaner fluid
Penetrating oil (for stuck set screws)

A basic socket set will take care of everything else.

Here are a few pics in this thread to help you out.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=529851

I used this page as a guide when I did mine.
http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/ChangingYourBrakePads_files/ChangingBrakePads.htm

Thanks, I read that, and it helped alot.

I will go by an auto parts store and try to picks up the tools and items I don't already have. What kind of brake fluid should I pick up as a back-up?

Thanks for everyone's help. Though it took 2 days, because of rain, and UPS delivering my package (front rotor) around 5:30PM, I was able to perform the brake job successfully.
For the rear, I replaced the new OEM pads with Axxis Deluxe Plus, and left the new OEM rotors on. I also replaced the rear sensor, though the light hadn't gone off, because the pads were newer, but I had the part handy, and the sensor was very dirty looking.

As far as the front, I replaced the rotors, pads, and sensor with Brembo solid, vented discs; Axxis Deluxe Plus pads; and a new OEM sensor.

I did loose the clamp that holds my pollen filter in place, but will probably pick up one of those from the dealer, or order one online, but my only hope is that it didn't fall into the engine area somewhere. I looked, but didn't see anything in there, and took the car for a short drive, and everything seems ok.

One question though, I noticed the brake fluid in the reservoir was blue, which I think is normally red. Does this mean it has the Super Blue fluid that many people talk about on the forums?

One question though, I noticed the brake fluid in the reservoir was blue, which I think is normally red. Does this mean it has the Super Blue fluid that many people talk about on the forums?
Congrats on getting your brake job done!

I suspect that the previous owner used ATE Super Blue if that is what you're seeing. You can use any DOT4 brake fluid. Do not use DOT5 which is not compatible with the ABS system. A commonly available brake fluid that performs well for street use and is relatively cheap is Valvoline's synthetic DOT3/DOT4 brake fluid. (about $6/qt)

Which is better? I hear so much on the forums about Super Blue, that when I saw blue fluid in the reservoir, I was pretty excited. Is the Super Blue synthetic?

I'm not going to replace the brake fluid yet, as I think I am going to have the transmission flushed first. After that, I am going to replace or have replaced, the rubber brake lines, for stainless steel lines. At that time, since the brake system will need to be blead anyways, I will put in all new fluid.

when looking at brake fluids, i look at two properties: 1. dry boiling point, and 2. wet boiling point. (1) tells you how much heat your brake fluid can take when new and (2) tells you how it will perform when old and has absorbed moisture. Well, that and price...

ATE Super Blue/Gold: 1=536F 2=392F / $11/Liter
Valvoline Synpower: 1=503F 2=343F / $6/qt
Prestone Synthetic DOT4: 1=500F 2=311F / $4/qt
Motul RBF 600: 1=593F 2=420F / $30/Liter
Castrol SRF: 1=590F 2=518F / $70/Liter

There should be information about hygroscopicity, which tells you how quickly your brake fluid is going to absorb moisture and drop to its wet boiling point, but I haven't found this information yet. DOT4 should resist moisture more than DOT3.

Other than dropping your boiling point, moisture can contribute to internal corrosion as well. hence, it is good to flush your brake fluid at least once every 2yrs under normal driving conditions.

by the way, i should add that i also consider availability. i can find valvoline or prestone at any local autostore or walmart even. hence, i like to use valvoline since it allows me to flush my brakes anytime. i have 2 cans of ATE super blue in a sealed plastic bag, but i haven't used them yet. For ATE, you almost have to order it online. Same goes with the more exotic brake fluids.

Thanks.