I'm enjoying driving my BMW 528e. It handles very nicely and is quite comfortable. I got, what I believe to be, a really good deal on it.

As could be assumed, there are a few things that need attention. So, let me start the list and perhaps a few fine folks here can help or point me in the right direction.

1. The odometer isn't working. The speedometer works fine. But, neither the odometer nor the trip meter is working. Is this controlled completely electronically, or is there a cable?

2. The front passenger window doesn't work. The windows are electric and all the others are working just fine.

3. The electric head rests aren't working, either.

4. The BMW hood and trunk ornaments are so badly faded that they aren't really recognizable. Any good economical supplier for these? These are just the round insignia ornaments I'm talking about.

5. Whenever I first start the car, the Brake Light error flashes on the console above the windshield. I have worked on this light -- it's the left brake light -- and the area where the contacts meet the main metal grid is rusted. It does appear that there's been enough moisture in this area to cause the rusting. I've used very, very fine sandpaper to remove the rust, and then I've had to bend the piece of the socket that the light fits in to actually make better connection. Once I start the car and press the brake pedal, the error light goes off and is no longer a problem. The question: Is there a way to get this initial error light to stop coming on at first start?

6. The computer display on the dash is not lighting up at all. I can see what I input during daylight, but, there's absolute no lighting at all with or without the headlights on at night. As such, I can't see the clock at night or any other information I might want to observe.

7. The button that controls the rear window electric defogger is messed up. The dark cover for the button has come off and I have it stored in the glove box. So, there's this white piece sticking out of the hole now. I think the entire button needs to be replaced. Or does it? Suggestions?

8. I'm not a smoker, but the cigarette lighter socket does work. However, the cigarette lighter itself is broken. I thought I could simply twist off the actual mechanism and replace it onto the 'knob'. Doesn't seem to work that way. Is this a proprietary one?

9. My steering wheel column has a handle that, supposedly, allows telescopic use of the steering wheel. However, no matter which position the handle is in, the steering wheel won't budge...in or out. Is it simply frozen in place? Or should it budge with a heavier hand? (Don't want to break anything and it's not a big deal.)

I think that's it for now.


Thanks in advance for any help and replies.

That's quite a laundry list! Here are a few answers:


4. The BMW hood and trunk ornaments are so badly faded that they aren't really recognizable. Any good economical supplier for these? These are just the round insignia ornaments I'm talking about.

Yes. BMA Parts (http://www.bmaparts.com) has these emblems for a decent price. You'll need parts:

BMW020372 Front Emblem $10.50
BMW020362 Rear Emblem $13.49

BMW020363 Emblem Grommets (you'll need four of these), $0.60 ea

There might be other suppliers that are less expensive, but I trust the guys at BMA to have prices in line with most other parts vendors.


6. The computer display on the dash is not lighting up at all. I can see what I input during daylight, but, there's absolute no lighting at all with or without the headlights on at night. As such, I can't see the clock at night or any other information I might want to observe.

Ah, the bulb that handles backlighting duties has burned out. You can either replace the OBC board itself with a new one for like $20, or if you're handy with a soldering iron you can replace the bulb with a similar one from Radio Shack. Check out the following link for more info on how to do this.

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/repair_faqs/obc.html#fixlight

1. The odometer isn't working. The speedometer works fine. But, neither the odometer nor the trip meter is working. Is this controlled completely electronically, or is there a cable?

It's controlled mechanically. There are these plastic gears in the cluster that control the odometer and trip meter. These eventually break. You can replace the gears at a cost of around $65, or if you aren't feeling to confident in that you can pull the cluster and send it to North Hollywood Speedometer (http://www.nhspeedometer.com/). They have pretty reasonable prices. My friend sent in his 944 cluster after the gear fix didn't work for some reason. He got the cluster fixed for $120.

Your other option is to get a used cluster from a salvage yard. This is probably the cheapest option. But, nothing will prevent the new-to-you cluster from failing a few miles down the road! :D

Thanks a bunch for the replies.

I'll let you all know as these get fixed. I'm quite handy with things like this and hope to be able to get some of them...if not all...done in the next few weeks.

5. this is normal - it is a reminder to step on the brakes once when starting.

5. this is normal - it is a reminder to step on the brakes once when starting.

That's good to know. So, that's one item I can strike from the list.

As promised, here's an update on the items I've completed, plus one new one that developed since my last post:

6. I've replaced the backlight for the OBC. It's working great now!!

7. I also replaced the switch for the rear window defogger. However, I'm not entirely sure yet that it's working. Since it's really warm here now, I don't need it. However, I do know that when I push the button in, there's no light. But, if the sensor detects that the rear window is already warm, I don't think the light would come on. Is that assumption correct?

An additional item that developed: My driver side door handle broke on Sunday. I was having to reach out the open window and open the door that way. So, I picked up a new one along with the other items in 6 and 7 above.

Once I got back home and started working on these, I had them all finished in about an hour. Not bad; not bad, at all. :)

Another day; another update:

I found out that a second bulb in the OBC was burned out. It was the one that illuminates the selection buttons.

Also, the bulb in the rear window defogger was burned out.

A second trip to the parts/service was required and they supplied the bulbs at no extra charge today.

However, after installing these, I tried both the Emergency Flasher and the Rear Window Defogger and got a very brief puff of smoke from beneath the instrument panel cluster.

Now the dimmer control doesn't work for the dash lighting. I have to have the dash lights either all the way on or not at all. [Bugger!]

oh man, you've opened the pandora's box of electrical problems!

My rear window defroster doesn't work either, but I'm not about to hunt anything down!

oh man, you've opened the pandora's box of electrical problems!

My rear window defroster doesn't work either, but I'm not about to hunt anything down!

This doesn't sound very encouraging.

Anyone with a more positive attitude? [smile]<SMILE>

well - th epuff of smoke means you have a short somewhere, or a circuit is overloaded. Check the fuses to see that they are all the value they are supposed to be. Sometimes people blow fuses often, then instead of finding the real problem, they just put in bigger fuses. Then an overload causes a wire to melt.

To find the problem, you will need scehematics, a DVOM, and some electrical knowledge to "follow the voltage" along the circuit.

well - th epuff of smoke means you have a short somewhere, or a circuit is overloaded. Check the fuses to see that they are all the value they are supposed to be. Sometimes people blow fuses often, then instead of finding the real problem, they just put in bigger fuses. Then an overload causes a wire to melt.

To find the problem, you will need scehematics, a DVOM, and some electrical knowledge to "follow the voltage" along the circuit.

This particular problem isn't of an immediate priority to me. There are a few other things I need/want to take care of first. I'll likely get to this when I get ready to fix the odometer. Should then be easier to trace the wires.

New Question:

What would be the cause of excessive tire wear on only one tire? In this case, the rear right tire?

After only a month and a half, I have already put on a new tire and the new tire is already showing considerable wear. The car runs very smooth...no shaking or shimmying....going down the road. Both front tires are fine and the rear left tire seems normal.

What is the wear pattern? Down the center, only on the outsides, only on one side, or just all uniformly worn down?

I'd suspect a suspension problem... bad shocks?

What is the wear pattern? Down the center, only on the outsides, only on one side, or just all uniformly worn down?

I'd suspect a suspension problem... bad shocks?

I'm going to be monitoring this very closely over the next several days.

On visual inspection, this brand new tire that has only been on the car for less than two weeks, looks like the tread has been scuffed with very coarse sandpaper. It's a uniform wear.

However, the tire that it replaced had worn through to the cord on the inside edge. So far, this one doesn't show more wear on either side. It's equally across and not the kind of wear you would see with an out-of-balance tire.

I think the tire situation is A-OK. It appears that the way the tread is designed, it looks shallower than it really is due to seeing it more at an angle than straightaway.

However, I have another question:

Whatever top-coating has been applied to this car in the past, it's become VERY chalky and needs to be removed. I found that straight ammonia is doing a fair job of it, but, it's not perfect. Were these cars given some kind of plastic coating at some point?

I need to find out what would be a good product to use to get this removed. The areas I've worked on are looking much, much better but there's a lot more to be done.

Thanks again for any suggestions/help.

You mean the yellowing gunk in the engine compartment and also on the undercarriage of the car? As it ages, it sometimes gets crumbly.

That's cosmoline, and it is one of the most stubborn substances known to man. Thus, BMW thought it was a good idea to spray this crud to protect cars against rust as they journeyed over here from the motherland. Well, it worked, because there's still cosmoline on my car and it was manufactured 16 years ago. I've found that normal solvents like the ones found in Gunk Engine Brite barely make a dent.

I guess some people have had luck using Castrol Super Clean or their favorite orange-oil cleaner. Wear gloves and goggles or at least some eye protection. This crap tickles when it gets in your eye. Use a nylon stiff bristle brush to work these cleaners in, and rinse off with water.

You mean the yellowing gunk in the engine compartment and also on the undercarriage of the car? As it ages, it sometimes gets crumbly.

That's cosmoline, and it is one of the most stubborn substances known to man. Thus, BMW thought it was a good idea to spray this crud to protect cars against rust as they journeyed over here from the motherland. Well, it worked, because there's still cosmoline on my car and it was manufactured 16 years ago. I've found that normal solvents like the ones found in Gunk Engine Brite barely make a dent.

I guess some people have had luck using Castrol Super Clean or their favorite orange-oil cleaner. Wear gloves and goggles or at least some eye protection. This crap tickles when it gets in your eye. Use a nylon stiff bristle brush to work these cleaners in, and rinse off with water.

No, I'm referring to whatever 'polishing agent' was used on the body of the car. This is either a build-up of wax or a plastic coat that was sprayed on to give it some protection and a better shine. Well, that coating is now very chalky and makes the car look pretty bad.

Those areas I've worked on with ammonia and a terry cloth rag are looking much better. As this substance breaks up it looks like very tiny crystalline pieces.

UPDATE:

I spent some more time on this 'chalky' situation today.

The ammonia is working great in the areas where the finish has turned completely chalky. But, in those areas where the finish is still glossy the ammonia isn't doing so good.

However, if I put ammonia on these areas, that glossy finish comes off fairly easily enough with my thumbnail.....or the edge of a credit card. I have probably about 90% of the top side of the car done but it has these large areas of different finishes now. I'd like to get it all down to the main coat of paint....or the base coat, if that's what it is and then go from there.

Belt sander dude, belt sander. Just kidding. I have no idea what this chalky stuff is. Sounds like a wax job gone bad. Horribly bad.

Eventually, the car will be ready for a new paint job. But, in the mean time, I'd like for it to look better than it does at present. Imagine if your skin were Cirrus Blue and you got a sunburn and then started to peel. That's quite like what the car's looking like as I proceed with this situation.

Maybe some day I'll be authorized to post photo links. ;)