View Full Version : Break-in Procedure for New Motor?
SRiley 04-05-2006, 10:50 AM What is the recommended procedure to breaking in a new motor? This is a 3.2 OBD-1 Prepared motor in an E36 M3.
- Oil type?
- Gradual rpm growth over multiple sessions?
- When is it ok to switch back to synthetic?
- Anything else?
Hopefully, Older-N-Slower doesn't respond since I know his break-in procedure...it's called the cold pits and formation lap! :)
Thanks,
Scott
maranelloman 04-05-2006, 10:52 AM Ooo...ooo...Let me do it.
Armo95 04-05-2006, 11:02 AM Slowly raise the tach to 4K in 1st, then, glance in your rearview mirror ... if the coast is clear, goose it to the ground :D
ceegeezM3 04-05-2006, 11:06 AM Drop it off a cliff. :D
You'll probably get 10 different opinions, but I'd say no sythetic oil, break it in on the track at 8/10ths, 15 minutes session, let it cool, check for leaks, repeat 3 or 4 times, then change the oil again. Flog it.
I'm a fan of the 'break it in hard' theory. You need max compression on the rings to get them to seat properly.
I'd go back to synthetic after the first full race weekend.
Steve J. 04-05-2006, 11:19 AM Who built the motor? If you trusted them to build the motor, you should probably trust thier break in suggestions.
Randy305 04-05-2006, 11:27 AM Geeeeez….. these guys and their “BUILT” motors! :rolleyes
Drive it like you stole it!!!:D
jdholder 04-05-2006, 11:28 AM Drive it like you stole it!! Then, check for leaks and change the oil. No Synthetic to start (first weekend).
Enjoy!!
scottbm3 04-05-2006, 11:37 AM What is the recommended procedure to breaking in a new motor? This is a 3.2 OBD-1 Prepared motor in an E36 M3.
- Oil type?
- Gradual rpm growth over multiple sessions?
- When is it ok to switch back to synthetic?
- Anything else?
Hopefully, Older-N-Slower doesn't respond since I know his break-in procedure...it's called the cold pits and formation lap! :)
Thanks,
Scott
Scott;
Well, since your in IP. I would suggest running it about 3-4 quarts low on straight 20w oil. That will allow the rings and bearings to seat real nice. Make sure you do this when the temp is hot and at high rpm's. Then drain completely and repeat. :stickoutt But that's just my unbias IP opinion :D Or you could just follow Chris's method, but where's the adventure. Since I'll probablly never have a "Built" motor I'll never have to worry about it. Best of luck in your new class. Hope to see you on the track.
SRiley 04-05-2006, 11:38 AM Who built the motor? If you trusted them to build the motor, you should probably trust thier break in suggestions.
I wouldn't exactly call a Prepared motor a "built" motor. It is simply factory BMW parts put together according to BMW specs. A dedciated motor/race shop like Stickley or Sunbelt did not put the motor together, but rather a general service/repair facility with certified mechanics.
Randy305 04-05-2006, 11:55 AM I wouldn't exactly call a Prepared motor a "built" motor. It is simply factory BMW parts put together according to BMW specs. A dedciated motor/race shop like Stickley or Sunbelt did not put the motor together, but rather a general service/repair facility with certified mechanics.
You mean you didn’t get the lightend, knife edged crank with titanium rods and light weight, high compression pistons along with that port and polished head…what kind of “built motor” did you get?
IMHO, you have a “freshened” motor, completely freshened ….but very far from "built."
Congratulations!!! :redspot I bet you are just itching to get out there.
scottbm3 04-05-2006, 12:10 PM You mean you didn’t get the lightend, knife edged crank with titanium rods and light weight, high compression pistons along with that port and polished head.
Randy;
There you go again, giving away your "Speed" secret's :D
SRiley 04-05-2006, 12:16 PM IMHO, you have a “freshened” motor, completely freshened ….but very far from "built."
Congratulations!!! :redspot I bet you are just itching to get out there.
That is exactly what I have! Yes, I am very excited to get on track next weekend!!
Scott
Randy305 04-05-2006, 12:17 PM Randy;
There you go again, giving away your "Speed" secret's :D
:lol OOPS!!!
SRiley 04-05-2006, 12:26 PM Any recommendations on the dino oil viscosity/weight?
I plan to:
- run 2-3 sessions in the AM
- change the oil (no synthetic yet) at lunchtime
- run 2-3 more sessions in the PM
- change the oil (no synthetic yet)
- run a full race weekend 2 weeks later
- change to synthetic oil
I will also check for leaks after every session and gradually build up revs throughout the day.
Thanks everyone,
Scott
singletrack1 04-05-2006, 12:35 PM What Stickley told me was to use non-synthetic oil and keep the rev's down(below 5K) for the first few sessions. They open in up and run it hard.
I used 20-50 dino oil.
It seems to have worked for my motor.
Bill
maranelloman 04-05-2006, 12:40 PM It seems to have worked for my motor.
Bill
I'll say...
:redspot :redspot :redspot :alright
I would suggest breaking it in when Sean is not following you. There is only 3 weeks until MSR! :stickoutt
John@BPG 04-05-2006, 12:54 PM I use valvoline VR1 20w-50 to break in my "freshened" engine(s).
SRiley 04-05-2006, 01:36 PM I use valvoline VR1 20w-50 to break in my "freshened" engine(s).
Isn't that synthetic oil?
EDIT: Just called Valvoline...it is not synthetic. Thanks, John.
Scott
megatron 04-05-2006, 02:23 PM no synthetic and beat the crap out of it sounds about right. :D
DBurke 04-05-2006, 02:45 PM Use lots of high load and full throttle. For example a 2500-5500 full throttle 4th gear pull. Avoid low load high RPM. No synth.
txse46m3 04-05-2006, 10:16 PM I would suggest breaking it in when Sean is not following you. There is only 3 weeks until MSR! :stickoutt
Oh SNAP!:alright
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