I just bought an 1983 e21 320i from a forums member.. great body, decent interior.. bad head.. I have a few questions on what I want to do, wha happened.. what possible causes, etc. So here it goes.

1) The car snapped the cam (not in the journals but between) snapping a rocker arm in the process. What I have been thinking is what could have caused this problem. Bad lubrication (doesn't show in the lobes with the heat marks), or a skip of the timing chain, or manufacturer defect. I don't know what the basis of this problem could be. I wonder if I could be safe with a new cam install and maybe replace the camshaft bearings. Or what do you all suggest with this? ( I have a pic but don't know how to copy+paste)

2) I would like to know the best way to go at the 1.8 for performance. I am looking to gain 200-250 max! Just enough to get me around quickly without breaking parts. Has an exhaust 2 1/2 to 3" high flow cat to 2 1/2 cat back (cherry bomb).. I am getting an intake after I elocate the battery to the trunk. What other areas should I go at? I want to do MSD ignition, what about fuel? What should I do.. the plenums seem very large so maybe a polish of the ports would be good? Throw me ideas..

3) What is the deal on cooling this car down? I notice the routing of the radiator hoses are in like a 3 way wierd design which I never seen before.. any ways to get this better routed? Change to a lighter fan would help a great deal.. throw ideas again..

4) I seen a few posts on CIS to Weber carb setups. Is the CIS that bad that CARB is more efficient and better for a performance gain? How much would this cost and what can anyone tell me about this swap?

5) I am looking for interior parts.. and no part yards around my city have 320i's.. anyone parting interior out such as inner door panels.. arm rest on the door.. ash tray.. center console maybe in whole.. back seat?

Once again, thanks for any info that can be throw out.. I appreciate it. I will be putting out posts on progress.

Thanks,

Kyle

What link?

M20!!!!!!!!!!!!!! grab a m20 motor, and put that in. thats what im attempting!:buttrock :buttrock :buttrock :buttrock

I just bought an 1983 e21 320i from a forums member.. great body, decent interior.. bad head.. I have a few questions on what I want to do, wha happened.. what possible causes, etc. So here it goes.

1) The car snapped the cam (not in the journals but between) snapping a rocker arm in the process. What I have been thinking is what could have caused this problem. Bad lubrication (doesn't show in the lobes with the heat marks), or a skip of the timing chain, or manufacturer defect. I don't know what the basis of this problem could be. I wonder if I could be safe with a new cam install and maybe replace the camshaft bearings. Or what do you all suggest with this? ( I have a pic but don't know how to copy+paste)

2) I would like to know the best way to go at the 1.8 for performance. I am looking to gain 200-250 max! Just enough to get me around quickly without breaking parts. Has an exhaust 2 1/2 to 3" high flow cat to 2 1/2 cat back (cherry bomb).. I am getting an intake after I elocate the battery to the trunk. What other areas should I go at? I want to do MSD ignition, what about fuel? What should I do.. the plenums seem very large so maybe a polish of the ports would be good? Throw me ideas..

3) What is the deal on cooling this car down? I notice the routing of the radiator hoses are in like a 3 way wierd design which I never seen before.. any ways to get this better routed? Change to a lighter fan would help a great deal.. throw ideas again..

4) I seen a few posts on CIS to Weber carb setups. Is the CIS that bad that CARB is more efficient and better for a performance gain? How much would this cost and what can anyone tell me about this swap?

5) I am looking for interior parts.. and no part yards around my city have 320i's.. anyone parting interior out such as inner door panels.. arm rest on the door.. ash tray.. center console maybe in whole.. back seat?

Once again, thanks for any info that can be throw out.. I appreciate it. I will be putting out posts on progress.

Thanks,

Kyle


I have absolutely mint black door panels and rear panels. PM me if you are interested. And list any specific things you are looking for.
And Im fairly local.

he he . I remember this car. The $500 one. with the cam snapped in 3.


The thing is that the cam doesnt snap on its own. I asked him the same question before. It is not just a "poor lubrication , which would be pretty funny.

You need the force of a piston to do this, and the cam doesnt just go seized on its own in its bearings. (unless that are super super worn)

What happened is probablly the following.

I guess this high-mlg. engine had a bad case of valve guides (that might even were knocked loose)

It causes the valve to rock in the bore til at some higher RPM it met the piston (valve float its)

The valve is jammed in there while jamming the rocker
The engine rotateThe rest of the valve train is out of wack
The other valves gets wrapped while the engine rotates.
Then cam snaps in pieces and the rocker is finally broken

classic case

I bet the pistons are damaged too, maybe the bores too and some valve chunks damaged it.
The only way to find out is to open the head. But at this point, it looks like the motor is done for. I recomend buying a used one for $300


But the car is totally worth it.

Also the bearings on this head can be only "renewed by a machine shop". Usually if they are trashed the head goes into the can

You wont be able to post pics til you got a number of posts done.

I have a couple of M20's....B25's

he he . I remember this car. The $500 one. with the cam snapped in 3.


The thing is that the cam doesnt snap on its own. I asked him the same question before. It is not just a "poor lubrication , which would be pretty funny.

You need the force of a piston to do this, and the cam doesnt just go seized on its own in its bearings. (unless that are super super worn)

What happened is probablly the following.

I guess this high-mlg. engine had a bad case of valve guides (that might even were knocked loose)

It causes the valve to rock in the bore til at some higher RPM it met the piston (valve float its)

The valve is jammed in there while jamming the rocker
The engine rotateThe rest of the valve train is out of wack
The other valves gets wrapped while the engine rotates.
Then cam snaps in pieces and the rocker is finally broken

classic case

I bet the pistons are damaged too, maybe the bores too and some valve chunks damaged it.
The only way to find out is to open the head. But at this point, it looks like the motor is done for. I recomend buying a used one for $300


But the car is totally worth it.

148k isn't high mileage for a bmw, no? Doesn't look like poor lubrication, no signs of any other metal chunks in the oil pan.. but the head will come off just for a steel HG anyways. What I am really concerned about is if the cam broke, the timing chain putting pressure on that tiny piece of camshaft and possible ruining the journals.. that is my main worry. I will have it inspected and what have you when it's all out. That is my main worry after all.

I have absolutely mint black door panels and rear panels. PM me if you are interested. And list any specific things you are looking for.
And Im fairly local.

Won't let me pm you. I am interested though, you have an email so I can list you the specifics? thanks

anyway the head is 100% junk. Easy to buy a used one in ggod shape for like $150. Or a whole engine for $300-500

148k miles is high for the M10. The bottome end should be still good. The middle should be so-so. The head usually needs a rebuild. The chain gets longer and the pump has greater clearences.

Won't let me pm you. I am interested though, you have an email so I can list you the specifics? thanks
bimmer at s o v e r dot net

Swap a Mazda rotary Wankel motor in it, like b12 or whatever, then turbocharge it. Close to 200 hp, and it is half the weight of the M10.

I have black door panels, front and rear. I also have a couple center consoles. Let me know what you need, I probably have it.

I have a couple of M20's....B25'son
Could not email you per your preferences. Did not intend to hijack this thread

Anyone have an m10 head? Would an m20 head work on this block also? Same block if I am not mistaken... I don't want to do a motor swap or none of that.. I want to put the head on for now and then when I go to my college (Universal Technical Institute) I will further my progress on this. I just want the interior stuff done. paint, suspension before performance anywho. I just want to get a decent running car for maybe 6-8 months.

Anyone have an m10 head? Would an m20 head work on this block also? Same block if I am not mistaken... I don't want to do a motor swap or none of that.. I want to put the head on for now and then when I go to my college (Universal Technical Institute) I will further my progress on this. I just want the interior stuff done. paint, suspension before performance anywho. I just want to get a decent running car for maybe 6-8 months.
Which campus? Im going to UTI in North Carolina this Dec. Im 30yrs old but never to old to further my knowledge. Sole purpose is to take the BMW Step program. E-mail me on those interior bits. They are taking up room and I'll give you a good price!

Norwood, MASS campus. Brand new, and is the bigges campus they got. I am either going for BMW or VW, BMW being 1st. I am in the middle of sending you an email bro, no worries :)

M10 = 4cyl., M20 = 6cyl. Hope that helps.

I also need all my E21 stuff out of my garage. I have rear seats, recaro fronts, a rear seat delete kit, black door panels, etc. Just let me know.

I also need all my E21 stuff out of my garage. I have rear seats, recaro fronts, a rear seat delete kit, black door panels, etc. Just let me know.

What kind of Recarro's? Cloth? Color?
waferman

Anyone have an m10 head? Would an m20 head work on this block also? Same block if I am not mistaken... I don't want to do a motor swap or none of that.. I want to put the head on for now and then when I go to my college (Universal Technical Institute) I will further my progress on this. I just want the interior stuff done. paint, suspension before performance anywho. I just want to get a decent running car for maybe 6-8 months.

Ok, look around and see what you need, but before you make decisions you need to pull the head off of the motor and look at the cylrs. If the tops of the pistons are ok, and there are no scratches on the cyl wall (deep as felt with finger) then just replace the head and go. You will never get 200hp out of the 4 on a college students budget!:D Unless your dad is Tony Soprano. So, if you want a head to get back on the road, I have two extra. One is complete and ready to go, you just need a head gasket. Not sure about the seals, etc, but ran on an engine with very low compression. $50 +shipping (prob another $50 or so). The other is completely dissassembled. Probably in better condition though. Has been hot tanked. I have all the parts in a box, I never re-assembled it. The camshaft, I was told, needs to be ground, but it is still usable as it is. The best thing to do would be to hand the whole shebang to a shop and ask them to put new guides and seals in since it is allready taken apart. Then they can put it together for you, unless you are up to it.

Anyhoo, let me know!
Thanks,
waferman

Wafer.. is the cam on the head that's assembled good? I would like to buy the non assembled one. Whats your email? and can you get pics?

thanks

PS: vtbimmer, My father said he will let me know tomorrow.. he was at a funeral and couldn't let me know. Sorry for the convenience.

Wafer.. is the cam on the head that's assembled good? I would like to buy the non assembled one. Whats your email? and can you get pics?

thanks

PS: vtbimmer, My father said he will let me know tomorrow.. he was at a funeral and couldn't let me know. Sorry for the convenience.
No problem.

[QUOTE=Crazy320i]Wafer.. is the cam on the head that's assembled good? I would like to buy the non assembled one. Whats your email? and can you get pics?

thanks


My email is: john.harriet@netzero.net

What kind of Recarro's? Cloth? Color?
waferman
Yeah they are cloth and in pretty much perfect condition. They are a dark grey with black vinyl on the backs. Come with seat rails and everything. I think they are from a euro car but I'll have to ask the previous owner.

Yeah they are cloth and in pretty much perfect condition. They are a dark grey with black vinyl on the backs. Come with seat rails and everything. I think they are from a euro car but I'll have to ask the previous owner.

How much for the recaro's?

I hadn't really thought of a price... since I was planning on selling the car as a whole. Shoot me an offer in a PM if you want. I also have a brand new set of black carpet, a rear seat delete kit, and a black rear deck lid.

I hadn't really thought of a price... since I was planning on selling the car as a whole. Shoot me an offer in a PM if you want. I also have a brand new set of black carpet, a rear seat delete kit, and a black rear deck lid.
I don't have that access yet I guess.. can you pm me your email.. or aim messenger or what have you.. we can talk.

VTbimmer: I can't get the car.. due to no where to put it. I would like to take some stuff of your hands or what not. let me know if thats ok. thanks

I don't have that access yet I guess.. can you pm me your email.. or aim messenger or what have you.. we can talk.

VTbimmer: I can't get the car.. due to no where to put it. I would like to take some stuff of your hands or what not. let me know if thats ok. thanks
Thats fine, like I said if you want to take a drive up here and check it out you can take whatever you want off it.

My email is Jakeyb144@msn.com and aim is Jakeyb144
You can see some pictures of the seats, carpet, and rear seat delete in this link. I also have 2 sets of front and rear black door panels, rear ash trays, a tan rear bottom and top seat, IS steering wheel, air conditioning unit, and freshly painted 320i for sale.

http://www.euroteknik.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19053

There is no piston damage. Is it ok to just replace the head and go? I don't see any bottom end damage (metal shavings, etc) Everything looks fine. Would it be fine just to slap a head on?

PS: Wafer, sent you an email.