Exactly as the title says. I realized it was slipping hardcore when I went down the strip revving my engine in 3rd gear.:help

Exactly as the title says. I realized it was slipping hardcore when I went down the strip revving my engine in 3rd gear.:help
stock... and I'm pretty sure I'm making a good bit more torque than you. ;)

Stock clutch, BMP ltw flightwheel.

stock... and I'm pretty sure I'm making a good bit more torque than you. ;)
Yeah but my clutch isn't holding when I race. The clutch probably hasn't been replaced before and it smells horrible. When did you last replace yours?

Yeah but my clutch isn't holding when I race. The clutch probably hasn't been replaced before and it smells horrible. When did you last replace yours?
Its original (from what i could tell) to the '94 325 engine that was put in the car.

What kind of racing? And at what point is it not holding?

How many miles on yours? how is it driven? anything that would be considered abusive to the clutch? high RPM launches, slipping the clutch at all while driving (especially at higher RPM's or while still on the throttle), etc... would you happen to still have a CDV?
if you've glazed the stock clutch it'll slip easily. You can try bedding it in again, but it might be difficult to get it to come back depending on how gone the surfaces are.
If it won't come back, then its definately replacement time. If you can pinpoint what caused the issue, that will help you select your replacement. Most commonly its technique or method of use that kills them. The selection on clutch type/material should be driven by use. If its still a NA 2.5 or 2.8 in there, then the stock 228mm diameter clutch should be fine. As should the stock pressure plate with the right material.
A stronger pressure plate will yield more torque holding ability... so long as you don't overheat the disc. If you're going to be doing a lot of high RPM clutch slipping or you like drifting and clutch kicking is your thing... then something ceramic or carbon will be best. You'll just need the heat handling ability. If its a daily driver, organic is still my material of choice.

Unfortunately, the only way to really know what is going on with the clutch is to take it apart and inspect.

Wow, e36s came with 228mm clutches? So did most 1600s and 2002s. :rofl

What size is the M3 clutch? 240?

Matt

Rogue Engineering ltw flywheel and R.E. Spung-Hub disc clutch.

Wow, e36s came with 228mm clutches? So did most 1600s and 2002s. :rofl

What size is the M3 clutch? 240?

Matt
yup. 228 for the non-M's... E30 325's, etc...
240 for E36 M3's, E34 535's, etc...

E21 320's came with 215mm clutches. as did the various 318's. dunno bout 2002's. I figured they'd come with 215's as well.

My E34 525 has a 228mm clutch. a stock one. same as any other M20 powered _manual_ car. The "no longer holds" point is ~350 ft-lb of torque.

Some 2002s had 215s but early ones and all tiis had 228s. You are right about later M10s... all 215mm.

All 228mm clutches for M10s, M20s, and S14s are compatible if you use the right release bearing. You can put an e30 M3, or e30 325i clutch onto a 2002 for better holding power.

Matt

You might start with removing your clutch delay valve, if you haven't already. during high rev, fast/hard shifts, it can make the clutch slip. If it's toast, it's toast, but something I would recommend doing regardless.

I run UUC 8.5 LTW F/W with the sprung 6 puck ceramic.

You might start with removing your clutch delay valve, if you haven't already. during high rev, fast/hard shifts, it can make the clutch slip. If it's toast, it's toast, but something I would recommend doing regardless.

I run UUC 8.5 LTW F/W with the sprung 6 puck ceramic.
What does the CDV look like? I've never heard about it. Also I just ordered a UUC 8.5# flywheel with an M5 Sachs power clutch. I'll be installing it this Friday since we have no school.

Techno550:
I drive the car pretty hard, but I'm not into slipping the clutch a lot. I'm not sure if the previous owner replaced the clutch, i highly doubt it though. I am also unaware of his driving habits.

Clutch Delay Valve:

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/techtips/check_valve.htm

I will be doing mine very soon and also installing SS break lines since the hydraulic line will already need to be blead.

Clutch Delay Valve:

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/html_techtip/techtips/check_valve.htm

I will be doing mine very soon and also installing SS break lines since the hydraulic line will already need to be blead.
Thanks I'll check tommorow if i have that. I'm also replacing the lines with stainless and getting the UUC tranny mount enforcers with new bushings. What else should I go buy to replace. I bought it from understeer and I'm not sure what they include in the package.

Thanks I'll check tommorow if i have that. I'm also replacing the lines with stainless and getting the UUC tranny mount enforcers with new bushings. What else should I go buy to replace. I bought it from understeer and I'm not sure what they include in the package.

PM bbaz.

He knows everything you should replace when doing the swap. It is about $75 in parts, and $80-$100 extra if you Guibo is screwed.

Also, I don't think you have the CDV since you do not have an OBDII M3.

PM bbaz.

He knows everything you should replace when doing the swap. It is about $75 in parts, and $80-$100 extra if you Guibo is screwed.

Also, I don't think you have the CDV since you do not have an OBDII M3.
Ok I'll call him when I get out of school.

You might start with removing your clutch delay valve, if you haven't already. during high rev, fast/hard shifts, it can make the clutch slip. If it's toast, it's toast, but something I would recommend doing regardless.

I run UUC 8.5 LTW F/W with the sprung 6 puck ceramic.

+1 UUC:D