Please let me know waht you think of the Zimmerman drilled rotors. I need to replace my brakes and rotors....and thinking of putting these on cause they are about the same price as normal oem replacements. Thanks for the help.

Just get replacement blanks. Find a good online place, for example Brembo OEM replacement blanks, depending on the place, can be cheaper then OEM.

Brembo or Balo blanks are just fine.

Plus with the cross drilled, you may end up with cracked rotors.

Just get replacement blanks. Find a good online place, for example Brembo OEM replacement blanks, depending on the place, can be cheaper then OEM.

Brembo or Balo blanks are just fine.

Plus with the cross drilled, you may end up with cracked rotors.

You sure? I know a guy who said his brakes fade on his way to work. :confused

I don't know who to believe anymore. :help :(

what are you looking for?

looks or performance?

You sure? I know a guy who said his brakes fade on his way to work. :confused

I don't know who to believe anymore. :help :(
Did you read it on the Internet? If so, then it must be true. :eek:

---Eric

From what I've read, the cracks are much less likely to occur on the Zimmermans because the holes are cast, not drilled.

I'd still get the OEM ones though. I happened to have recieved a free pair of Zimmerman xdrilled rotors, so I figure I'd use them since they cost me nothing. After they need replacing, I'll prob be going back to OEM

Don't do cross-drilled...Simsima325 can chime in with some personal experience regarding that...

I just went with some Brembo slitted rotors and could not be happier. But I dont drive on a track/auto-x and the difference between these and normal rotors is negligable from what I can tell....

Don't do cross-drilled...Simsima325 can chime in with some personal experience regarding that...

I just went with some Brembo slitted rotors and could not be happier. But I dont drive on a track/auto-x and the difference between these and normal rotors is negligable from what I can tell....

I'd imagine that slotted rotors would be harder on your pads than blanks.

hmmm, i just got a set X drill for the rear....which is from Zimmerman:confused

I have run the Zimmermans with holes for about two years with no problems - street only; no auto-x or track. I don't notice any difference between holes and my originals. IMO, it's pads that make the most difference, anyhow.

I'd imagine that slotted rotors would be harder on your pads than blanks.
Probably so, actually I wouldn't doubt it, oh well :az

going with brembo blanks next time around. after two sets of zimmermanns that were warped from the factory, i have given up, and live with warped brakes. cannot wait to replace these and upgrade to 3.0 front brakes...

bottom line, be safe, go with Brembo or OEM blanks.

going with brembo blanks next time around. after two sets of zimmermanns that were warped from the factory, i have given up, and live with warped brakes. cannot wait to replace these and upgrade to 3.0 front brakes...

bottom line, be safe, go with Brembo or OEM blanks.

But Porsches, Ferraris and now even the new M5s have cross drilled rotors. If they were really that bad, then why would they put them on the car.

The holes provide better heat dissipation from gases that are generated. I personally use pads with material my dad bought me in the 60s. That abestos gas needs to go somewhere! Slotted are even better because they give you a clean pad surface from all the soot that covers your rotors on a normal driving basis.

My next step is to get bigger rotors. They will give me more braking power because they are bigger. They will give me more torque than my calipers can handle.. so Ill prolly need to upgrade my calipers to bigger 6 piston ones. 6 is better than 2 because thats even more clamping power on the pads. I hear though if you do that, you need bigger cross drilled holes and more slots (maybe those funky atomic slots or flower slots) because even more gases will now be generated....

But Porsches, Ferraris and now even the new M5s have cross drilled rotors. If they were really that bad, then why would they put them on the car.


Heh, there was a thread on CF asking C6 Z06 owners how their brakes (cross-drilled) were holding up on the track. The response was not favorable.

Heh, there was a thread on CF asking C6 Z06 owners how their brakes (cross-drilled) were holding up on the track. The response was not favorable.

Actually, what's funny is, they are going to SMALLER rotors ... who woulda thunk it. :eek:

I'm happy w/ my Zimmies. 4-5 auto-x's and some tough street driving, including a couple long trips with no issues....so far....

LOL @ WONGer.

Don't waste your money on the Zimmermans.

From what I've read, the cracks are much less likely to occur on the Zimmermans because the holes are cast, not drilled.


THis is true too, because all rotors are made from iron and they all have the same quality and densities... therefore casting as opposed to drilling negates ALL negative characteristics of cross drilled rotors.

I also HERE dat by chamfering the holes in the BREAK rotor, it totally eliminates stress points in the material.

Some say he can fish with his tongue... and he's terrified of ducks.

All we know is he's called... The Stig.

Its so funny to me how many people ask what the f*ck is "The Stig." However everytime I go to a bimmer meet or even on here, almost everyone knows where it comes from. My friends back home used to call me that as a joke between us (long story involved), so I figured it was only fitting that I get the plate. Its such a simple thing yet I get so many complements from people in the know (mostly bimmer nuts).

Back to what the thread is about.....I can get drilled Zmans for 100 a rotor basically and I can get Brembo OEM replacements for 85 a piece. I use this car as my everyday car (mostly highway mileage)....and to go play at the meets/drives. I like the drilled look....but I dont want warped/cracked rotors. I have heard almost a little on both sides (good and bad), but am still stuck on which to go with. Also what are some good pads for everyday use? I am not sure what are currently on....but they dont produce hardly any brake dust. I dont really care how much dust is created....I am more looking for longevity (of pads and rotors) and good braking habits from the pads.

How can any Euro car enthusiast not know who the stig is?....

Someone should take thier keys...

Some say he can fish with his tongue... and he's terrified of ducks.

All we know is he's called... The Stig.

This is a pretty good episode...700MB (http://bagelbitez.com/temp/Top%20Gear%20-%20%5b07x01%5d%20-%202005.11.06.avi) :D

Honestly, if you want them for the look, go ahead and get them, people do things that are a lot more stupid in the name of looks. But just beware that you might have cracking issues and you're paying more for less performance.

IMO slotted rotors are just great - they help eliminate pad glazing and won't ever crack.

For pads I would go with Axxis Ultimates for street use. Nice firm bite even in very cold weather, not too much dust and the dust does not react with wheel finishes (in my experience). Good street pad.

I bought my M3's brakes from PPS (search username craig@pps). It was $250 for the whole set of brakes (rotors, sensors, Axxis ultimates) shipped! Probably don't have that deal going on now but if I were to buy again I'd go through them, they were great.

JV

IMO slotted rotors are just great - they help eliminate pad glazing and won't ever crack.



JV

Im going to have to disagree w/ you on this one JV. Slotted rotors serve no real purpose other than eating up your pads (or looks). On a street car... there SHOULD be no glazing issues. If you are, then something is not right. And even on track, assuming one was to get the correct pads for the proper operating temperature range, those should not glaze either.

Contrary to popular belief... slotted rotors CAN crack... just a much lower chance. Anytime you drill or cut a rotor, youre messing w/ the structural integrity.

If you want to get cross drilled for looks, thats fine. Just make sure you get a quality rotor (not sure about the Zimms)... Rotors are not created equal (contrary to my sarcastic post above). They are all made out of iron, but of varying densities... sometimes, the balance can be WAY off causing vibrations and shudder. Sometimes, the densities are junk and causes an even higher chance of structural failure.

For a street car... Id recommend some Wagner ThermoQuiet pads or the Axxis as mentioned. The ThermoQuiet will last quite a bit and is super cheap... the Axxis will give better performance but dust like mad and cost a tad more. As far as rotors, since the Brembos are cheaper, Id go with those.

Im going to have to disagree w/ you on this one JV. Slotted rotors serve no real purpose other than eating up your pads (or looks). On a street car... there SHOULD be no glazing issues. If you are, then something is not right. And even on track, assuming one was to get the correct pads for the proper operating temperature range, those should not glaze either.

I'll have to return the disagreement. Maybe it was sh!tty pads, but I had the glazing problem with my SHO - the pads would end up glazed after about 2,000 miles. I had to remove the pads, scuff them, and reinstall, otherwise I had just general weird brake feel.

I upgraded to slightly larger (but much thicker) '96 SHO rotors which were slotted and the problem went away. So... dunno.

And the structural integrity is basically the same - as long as the slots don't go to the edge of the rotor it's very unlikely they'll ever crack.

I'll have to return the disagreement. Maybe it was sh!tty pads, but I had the glazing problem with my SHO - the pads would end up glazed after about 2,000 miles. I had to remove the pads, scuff them, and reinstall, otherwise I had just general weird brake feel.

I upgraded to slightly larger (but much thicker) '96 SHO rotors which were slotted and the problem went away. So... dunno.

HA! now I get to agree with you. Id blame the sh!tty pads.

Pads ONLY glaze when they go outside their intended temperature range. It might have been a combination of things including perhaps a rotor that was too small to absorb and dissipate heat fast enough between stopping... or maybe lack of proper cooling. Or maybe you just suck as a driver and youre riding your brakes too much with all those canyon runs you did. :P

Im willing to bet that if you went to the larger SHO rotors WITHOUT slotting, you probably would have seen the same improvement :) Im also willing to bet that going to a more aggressive pad compound with the same small stock rotors would have the same effect. Of course this is all speculation as I am no expert on Taurus brake systems.

But theoretically... temperature is the culprit for glazed pads... and there are really only a few real solutions. Id place slots under the category of a band-aid.

:confused

Did you read it on the Internet? If so, then it must be true. :eek:

---Eric

Actually, I heard that in real life. It was VERY hard trying not to laugh. :D

Actually, I heard that in real life. It was VERY hard trying not to laugh. :D

:lol

Yep. pretty unbelievable.

So seriously, Wonger and JV-please share your opinion on how a car can fade the brakes in a work commute-in morning traffic. Commute is about 10 mins I believe. Stock 3 series with basic bolt ons.

Maybe it was sh!tty pads, but I had the glazing problem with my SHO

Hrmm, I think this needs to be introduced next time JV is nominated as a 'sweatee'.

SHO... :nono

But theoretically... temperature is the culprit for glazed pads... and there are really only a few real solutions. Id place slots under the category of a band-aid.

:confused

Could be true. I was under the impression the pads glazed because they were not being used hard enough. I used them very hard a few times to try to de-glaze them and it did work, just not for too long.

:lol

Yep. pretty unbelievable.

So seriously, Wonger and JV-please share your opinion on how a car can fade the brakes in a work commute-in morning traffic. Commute is about 10 mins I believe. Stock 3 series with basic bolt ons.

Ride the brakes the whole way?

:dunno

:lol

Yep. pretty unbelievable.

So seriously, Wonger and JV-please share your opinion on how a car can fade the brakes in a work commute-in morning traffic. Commute is about 10 mins I believe. Stock 3 series with basic bolt ons.

Your brakes are too small. Buy a BBK.

Your brakes are too small. Buy a BBK.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

THAT was EXACTLY his solution!!!!!

Zimmerman X-Drilled are da sheit. Its a looks thang, though. No demonstrable gain/loss in performance or pad wear. Slight sound/feel through the pedal with hard stops, though.

I have been rockin' 'em for years on the track. No issues whatsoever. For street and hard-core parking lot use, Zims are way more than adequate.

If you really are going for looks, do what I did. I painted my rotors the same color as my car.

hot!

If you really are going for looks, do what I did. I painted my rotors the same color as my car.

hot!

That only looks good if you have rear drums, yo. :rolleyes

If you really are going for looks, do what I did. I painted my rotors the same color as my car.

hot!
Mine are that way too! Rust counts as a color right? :shifty

---Eric

fading brakessss...!

I paint my rotors COMPLETELY! I can't drive the car because of it (don't wanna mess up the paint) but da shyt lookZ hott...................yO!!:redspot

You guys are stupid.

For closed circuit racing, I did the brake rotor delete to make the car lighter.

Yeah, if you need brakes, you are not driving the car at 12/10ths . . .
Just yanking the wheel and taking a turn scrubs-off enough speed to make it through.

Brakes schmakes, I say.

exactly. And also why else do you think you have a tranny? downshifting for engine braking.

brakes are unnecessary weight on the car.

Mere balast . . .

THis is true too, because all rotors are made from iron and they all have the same quality and densities... therefore casting as opposed to drilling negates ALL negative characteristics of cross drilled rotors.

I also HERE dat by chamfering the holes in the BREAK rotor, it totally eliminates stress points in the material.

http://ohnose.com/megarolleyes6lz.jpghttp://ohnose.com/megarolleyes6lz.jpghttp://ohnose.com/megarolleyes6lz.jpghttp://ohnose.com/megarolleyes6lz.jpg

I never implied any of that. And I never mispelled 'hear' or 'brake' either so what the hells up with that

Besides, I even agreed that OEM rotors are better and that the xdrilled ones arent worth it.

I never implied any of that. And I never mispelled 'hear' or 'brake' either so what the hells up with that

Besides, I even agreed that OEM rotors are better and that the xdrilled ones arent worth it.

ROFLMAO! That image is hilarious.

Anyways.. my reply wasnt directed at you ;)

ROFLMAO! That image is hilarious.

Anyways.. my reply wasnt directed at you ;)

Oops, I figured it was :embarrasm Moving on...

If you want zimmerman rotors go to ebay. i got 4 rotor and pbr pads with shims and stainless steel lines for 425 shipped. in my opinion thats a banging deal. i actually checked the bmw part #s and they were correct. I didnt even know bmw sold zimmerman equipment before i bought the deal. i have had no problems to date with fade or anything else. just my .02