I've decided to start from scratch and not bother with the products and tools I already have (Old thread here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=405327&referrerid=16215).

I've compiled a list of things that I believe I should shop for. Please let me know if they aren't necessary, and if there are things that I've missed out. My car's an Arctic Grey E36, and it's 1992 - so that's some pretty old paint. I want to do a complete detail. The things that I can't get in New Zealand, such as the PC, pads and Klasse, I'm planning to get from Autogeek (seeing as we can get a 10% discount and they sponsor the forum).

My shopping list so far:

1. PC with 6" counterweight & 6" backing plate
2. 3M Finesse-It II Machine Polish
3. Klasse ALL-IN-ONE Polish
4. Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze
5. Pads (Polishing, Light cutting, cutting, finishing, finessing? How many of each?)
6. MF cloths - which types do I need and how many?
7. S100/P21S
8. What else? :help

Questions:

1. Am I supposed to get 5" CW and backing plate instead? If I get 6", what size pads can I use?

2. Do I need Menzerna Intensive Polish? Can't find it on Autogeek. Are there any products that does the same job? Meguiar's (available in NZ), 3M...

Is "3M Perfect-It ll Rubbing Compound Fine Cut" harsher than Menzerna, and should I get it in case I do need it in the future?

3. Any other detailing tools (applicators, brushes etc) that I should get shipped together? International shipping isn't cheap so as long as they aren't heavy I might as well get them now.

Thanks in advance! :buttrock

Also, this isn't limited to the exterior only. I'd like to clean up the engine bay and interior. Any special products? I usually use 303 Aerospace Protectant for the interior. For the engine bay, I've only used degreaser for the oily bits and a damp cloth to wipe the dust off, but I can get automotive Simple Green in NZ if that's the product of choice.

I think you need to start of with claying. Unless you're going straight to polishing already.

Oh, I've got half a Meguiar's clay bar left. Came with the Quik Detailing kit. And a whole blue clay bar that wasn't cheap... around $15 USD, but it doesn't have a particular brand.

I've decided to start from scratch and not bother with the products and tools I already have (Old thread here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=405327&referrerid=16215).

I've compiled a list of things that I believe I should shop for. Please let me know if they aren't necessary, and if there are things that I've missed out. My car's an Arctic Grey E36, and it's 1992 - so that's some pretty old paint. I want to do a complete detail. The things that I can't get in New Zealand, such as the PC, pads and Klasse, I'm planning to get from Autogeek (seeing as we can get a 10% discount and they sponsor the forum).

My shopping list so far:

1. PC with 6" counterweight & 6" backing plate
2. 3M Finesse-It II Machine Polish
3. Klasse ALL-IN-ONE Polish
4. Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze
5. Pads (Polishing, Light cutting, cutting, finishing, finessing? How many of each?)
6. MF cloths - which types do I need and how many?
7. S100/P21S
8. What else? :help

Questions:

1. Am I supposed to get 5" CW and backing plate instead? If I get 6", what size pads can I use?

2. Do I need Menzerna Intensive Polish? Can't find it on Autogeek. Are there any products that does the same job? Meguiar's (available in NZ), 3M...

Is "3M Perfect-It ll Rubbing Compound Fine Cut" harsher than Menzerna, and should I get it in case I do need it in the future?

3. Any other detailing tools (applicators, brushes etc) that I should get shipped together? International shipping isn't cheap so as long as they aren't heavy I might as well get them now.

Thanks in advance! :buttrock

1. If you buy your PC from autogeek, then I believe it is the 7424 model, and it will already come with the 5" CW. Autogeek should sell the 6" CW seperately for a couple of bucks. Pick one up and compare it with the 5" CW. I believe the pads that Autogeek sells are 6.5" pads that can be used with with either a 6" or 5" backing plate. So either size plate you buy will work with the pads.

2. No, you don't nedd Menzerna IP. Finesse It will work just fine. Yes, 3M PIFCRC is harsher. Its hard to say if you will need it. I've never seen your paint and do not know how swirled it is.

3. Buy some MF towels. Not sure if Autogeek has decent prices on towels though. If not, try Pak-shak.com.

Hope this helps.

Thanks David. Which backing plate should I use though? I read that the backing plate and counterweight must be the same size. But some people on autopia say they use a 6" CW with a 5" BP.

Which is the best combination? Autogeek has packages for the PC with either 5" or 6" CW so it's no problem getting either. I just want to make the best choice. I'm guessing I'll be using the 6.5" pads btw.

Also, how many of each pad should I get?

Either 6" or 5" plate and CW will work equally well. Close your eyes and pick one.

As for number of pads, you can get away with one of each , but 2 of each will be better as it will allow you to switch pads mid detail if one becomes dirty or oversaturated with polish.

Great, I'm going to go with 6" counterweight and 5" backing plate, with 6.5" pads.

Now for the pads, that's all good. Final question on pads - I'm quite confused about how Autogeek has so many:

Yellow - Heavy cutting
Orange - Light cutting
White - Polishing
Gray - Finishing
Blue - Finessing

What's finessing for? The descriptions don't help very much at all. I also read this: http://autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53260&page=1&pp=12&highlight=finessing+pads

Confuses me even more as they classify the gray as a 'light polish' and blue as 'finishing'.

EDIT: I was referring to the Wolfgang pads since Lake Country is recommended.

The blue and gray sound the same to me. Both are basically used for applying waxes or sealants. They have no cutting ability. I don't see a difference. It looks like a marketing gimmick to me more than anything. I wouldn't worry about it.

Just worry about the yellow, orange, and white pads. If you really want a pad to apply a wax or sealant, then pick one of the gray or blue.

3M Finess-It and Klasses AIO are fantastic products, however, I would suggest you swap the Klasses SG with some Clearkote Vanilla Moose Hand Glaze (can be applied with PC), it is much easier to apply/remove and actually treats all your black plastic mouldings while you buff :) I would also suggest you try Natty's Paste Wax as your final step, it worked wonders on my Arctic Silver, it actually brought out the blue in my silver paint :D Just dampen a small applicator pad and apply by hand atleast two coats of Nattys and I garauntee you wont be disappointed.

And unless your paint is really in a mess, I would simply purchase an orange, white, and black (or grey) pad. One for cut, one for polish, one for wax/glaze, that should save you a little money as this stuf can get costly and out-of-hand!

I ordered my MF towels from some place in Hawaii, I also ordered two MF drying towels as well, which if you're not a fan of chamois and water spots, they're the ticket. The MF towels I have are extremely plush/soft on one side and semi-tightly knitted on the other and they work prefectly, you may be able to get them elsewhere, just try a search.

My paint is in great shape and so I just use the following:

- Mother's Claybar every 6 months
- Klasse AIO w/ white pad on 4
- Clearkote Vanilla Moose Glaze w/ black pad on 3~4
- Natty's Paste Wax by hand


As far as the interior goes, I dont know anything about off-the-shelf products, I'm used to the commercial line we use @ my dealership. I do know that if you're gonna scrub your seats/door panels, etc. you should use grey Scotch-Brite pads (they work wonders), wet them, and then spray whatever interior cleaning solvent you are using on the panels/seats, getting the panel/seat really wet, then scrub(not oo hard on the seats, you can get carried away and remove the leather color) away the dirt and dry it with a clean towel. The best window cleaner is Eagle 20/20 vision clear spray, especially for tinted windows.

Hope all this helps, sorry for the extensive post ;)

how much is everything costing you?

Those are all great products that you have listed. I just recently detailed my car with every single one of them that you mentioned. I couldn't be happier with the results. I also used them on my sister's dark green Yukon that had bad swirl marks and my other sister's black Nissan Xterra with swirl marks also, but not as bad as the Yukon. I was amazed at how both cars turned out.

Since you will be using a PC, you will need to be patient and move the machine very slowly across the finish to obtain that perfect finish that you are looking for. If you only have minor swirls then I personally would start with FI2 with either an orange pad or a yellow pad. Don't be afraid to use the yellow cutting pad. Its nowhere near as harsh as it sounds. If that doesn't give you the results that you are looking for then go with the Perfect It II. On the Yukon and Xterra I started off with this because I knew that the FI2 would either take way too long or not be able to completely remove the swirls. But, I did end up following up with FI2 I used an orange pad for the PI2 and a yellow pad for the FI2. You just have to experiment and see what works best for your situation. You may even have to make a few passes before you are satisfied.

I would also recommend using the 4' spot buff pads instead of the 6.5 inchers. I find the bigger pads to be real difficult at manuevering arond moldings and trim pieces. The larger pads are good for cars that have wide open body panels. They also vibrate like crazy at higher speeds. I recommend that you use the fastest setting on the PC when applying the products with medium pressure applied to the PC. I find this to be much more effective. Although I do use speed 2-3 with no pressure on the PC to make a few final passes before buffing off the product with a microfiber towel.

If you will be using the Perfect It II, keep in mind that this product creates alot of dust, but it works great though. Just be sure to work the product onto the surface long enough to break down all of the abrasives in it. If you are doing your final buffing by hand and find it difficult to remove the product, a quick spritz of quick detailer makes the process so much easier.

Thanks guys, points noted.

NLR: Glad to hear of the results, now I can't wait! I'm still going to stick with 6.5" pads for the time being (seeing that it's the most commonly used one and much as I'd love to get everything, the cost is racking up FAST!).

ArcticFlow: Actually, thanks for the extensive posts (goes to NLR as well), they're very informative! Interior is cloth, but condition is still quite good so it's not that big of a worry. Just the carpets need some scrubbing with soap and they'll be great!

My shopping cart for Autogeek now consists of:

Porter Cable 7424 & Foam Pad Kit with FREE BONUS
which consists of:
Porter Cable 7424
5 Inch Backing Plate
1-6.5 Inch Orange Light Cutting Pad
2-6.5 Inch White Polishing Pads
3-6.5 Inch Gray Finishing Pad
2 Cobra Microfiber Towels
1 packet of Snappy Clean
Wolfgang™ Low Profile 5.5” Orange Light Cutting Pad
6" Counterweight
Dual Action 6.5" Yellow Cutting Pad
Klasse SG (16.9 oz)
Klasse AIO (10 oz) - considering 16.9 oz although the 10 is cheaper
3M FI-2
S100

Right now I'm just checking up on the MF cloths, there are so many types and sizes that it's hard to decide. I've decided to go with PakShak:

2 waffle weave towels (drying)
Menzerna IP

Since Pakshak sells the Menzerna IP, I thought I'd put it in the shopping cart. However, is it the same as 3M FI2 (in terms of abrasiveness)? If so which one is better?

And what other towels should I be getting? Ultra plush, Ultra fine, Ultra smooth, Ultra micro :shifty I know I need to use the waffle weaves to wipe the car dry after washing. But what about after claying, polishing, and waxing... Do any of those steps require MF towels? I hear the term buffing thrown around a lot, can anyone define that for me?

I'm also going to get some stuff for my moldings, blacken them up a bit :)

Yuen, you might want to also give autogeek's new product "wax blaster" a try also. You will inevitably get some product on the black moldings and trim and it'd be nice to have something to take the mess off. It is specifically designed to work on black textured moldings. The microfiber towels that i used were purchased from autogeek as well. I opted for the 6 pack super plush versions. I think I have purchased about 3-4 6 packs of them so far. Softest microfiber they carry. Definitely recommend them.

Keep us posted on your final results.

I've realized that I use microfibers like terry towels so I'd just go to Costco and buy like 20 of them for $10. Whoops you're in New zealand don't know about that...

I've decided to start from scratch and not bother with the products and tools I already have (Old thread here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=405327&referrerid=16215).

I've c...

Thanks in advance! :buttrock

Kinda OT: Buy Lexol leather cleaner and conditioner. Also Vinylex, it works wonders for your dash. Shiny but dry to the touch.

Thanks guys, points noted.

NLR: Glad to hear of the results, now I can't wait! I'm still going to stick with 6.5" pads for the time being (seeing that it's the most commonly used one and much as I'd love to get everything, the cost is racking up FAST!).

ArcticFlow: Actually, thanks for the extensive posts (goes to NLR as well), they're very informative! Interior is cloth, but condition is still quite good so it's not that big of a worry. Just the carpets need some scrubbing with soap and they'll be great!

My shopping cart for Autogeek now consists of:

Porter Cable 7424 & Foam Pad Kit with FREE BONUS
which consists of:
Porter Cable 7424
5 Inch Backing Plate
1-6.5 Inch Orange Light Cutting Pad
2-6.5 Inch White Polishing Pads
3-6.5 Inch Gray Finishing Pad
2 Cobra Microfiber Towels
1 packet of Snappy Clean
Wolfgang™ Low Profile 5.5” Orange Light Cutting Pad
6" Counterweight
Dual Action 6.5" Yellow Cutting Pad
Klasse SG (16.9 oz)
Klasse AIO (10 oz) - considering 16.9 oz although the 10 is cheaper
3M FI-2
S100

Right now I'm just checking up on the MF cloths, there are so many types and sizes that it's hard to decide. I've decided to go with PakShak:

2 waffle weave towels (drying)
Menzerna IP

Since Pakshak sells the Menzerna IP, I thought I'd put it in the shopping cart. However, is it the same as 3M FI2 (in terms of abrasiveness)? If so which one is better?

And what other towels should I be getting? Ultra plush, Ultra fine, Ultra smooth, Ultra micro :shifty I know I need to use the waffle weaves to wipe the car dry after washing. But what about after claying, polishing, and waxing... Do any of those steps require MF towels? I hear the term buffing thrown around a lot, can anyone define that for me?

I'm also going to get some stuff for my moldings, blacken them up a bit :)

For MF towels you want Ultra fine to remove wax and polish, ultra plush for quick detailing, waffle weave for drying. Ultra smooth is kind of an all purpose towel.
To permanantly blacken your moldings you can give "forever black" a try. They sell it at autogeek and it has gotten good reviews here. I am using it next year. For touch-ups, I use mother's back to black.
As for polish, I see a lot of people that seem to prefer menzerna over 3M since it has no fillers. I haven't done any buffing yet myself (my first experience will be this spring), so I can't tell you for sure. I can say Menzerna is on my list to order though.

Going to get Forever Black and possibly Back to Black. Also, some Gummi Pflege from PakShak, found that they carry it!

Thanks for the info fisherbln, I emailed Ranney to ask him what the difference between 'Ultra Smooth' and plain ol' 'Ultra' was. About 3M FI2, I'm quite sure it doesn't have fillers which is why it's the product of choice, but 3M SMR does. I might just go Menzerna AND 3M FI2 since I'm still not sure (unless someone chimes in before I place the order in a day or two), that'll save me money from getting it shipped another time.

Regarding the Lexol, I have a cloth interior so that won't apply. Cheers though!

Going to get Forever Black and possibly Back to Black. Also, some Gummi Pflege from PakShak, found that they carry it!

Thanks for the info fisherbln, I emailed Ranney to ask him what the difference between 'Ultra Smooth' and plain ol' 'Ultra' was. About 3M FI2, I'm quite sure it doesn't have fillers which is why it's the product of choice, but 3M SMR does. I might just go Menzerna AND 3M FI2 since I'm still not sure (unless someone chimes in before I place the order in a day or two), that'll save me money from getting it shipped another time.

Regarding the Lexol, I have a cloth interior so that won't apply. Cheers though!
Neither Finesse It nor Menzerna IP have any filler. You are correct, 3M SMR does have filler.

Both FI and IP are good polishes, but IP is more user friendly. If I were you, considering both are equal in all other ways except user friendliness, I would get the IP based on the ease of use.

Just my $0.02

Thanks David, Menzerna IP it is then!

Neither Finesse It nor Menzerna IP have any filler. You are correct, 3M SMR does have filler.

Both FI and IP are good polishes, but IP is more user friendly. If I were you, considering both are equal in all other ways except user friendliness, I would get the IP based on the ease of use.

Just my $0.02

Could you please explain what makes the Menzerna IP more user friendly?

Also, in the parked detailing thread, you mention that when applying SG no drying time is necessary before buffing off. However, on the bottle it says to wait for the product to dry?

Could you please explain what makes the Menzerna IP more user friendly?

Also, in the parked detailing thread, you mention that when applying SG no drying time is necessary before buffing off. However, on the bottle it says to wait for the product to dry?
Regarding IP vs FI, it's easier to remove the IP residue after you have worked it in.

As for SG, remove it right away. Technically it only takes a few seconds for the SG to flash (aka dry), hence why I say remove it right away and 'no dry time' is necessary. It actually is dry. I don't say this becuase a lot of folks don't believe it can flash so quickly.

Regarding IP vs FI, it's easier to remove the IP residue after you have worked it in.

As for SG, remove it right away. Technically it only takes a few seconds for the SG to flash (aka dry), hence why I say remove it right away and 'no dry time' is necessary. It actually is dry. I don't say this becuase a lot of folks don't believe it can flash so quickly.

Okay, thanks for the clarification.:)

Anyone know if I can do AIO/SG/Natty's Blue? As in using the Natty's Blue to replace the P21s. I haven't read about anyone using it.

Which also brings me to this question: Should I be using Natty's Blue or the normal Natty's Paste Wax for my Grey car? Is Grey a dark or a light colour? Seems kinda in between to me :dunno

Anyone know if I can do AIO/SG/Natty's Blue? As in using the Natty's Blue to replace the P21s. I haven't read about anyone using it.

Which also brings me to this question: Should I be using Natty's Blue or the normal Natty's Paste Wax for my Grey car? Is Grey a dark or a light colour? Seems kinda in between to me :dunno

There is no reason you can't top with Natty's Blue instead of P21s. I've never used Natty's, but from what I've read, it is quite good and you won't be disappointed.