Getting set up for the upcoming DE season. I have been experiencing brake fade with my current (stock + SS brake lines) setup, and I am upgrading to Toyo RA-1's this year. For a variety of reasons, I would like to avoid having to swap pads at the track (though I have no problems swapping pads in and out at home).

The issue is, I don't want to be a danger (to myself or other) with cold track pads that won't stop. I am thinking about going with Hawk HT-10's (or 14's and 10's) but I would like to hear from anyone who is running what they consider a great track pad (Pagid Oranges, the Hawks, Carbotechs, etc.) that will grab hard enough to activate the antilocks when stone cold--even if it takes one heck of a push on the pedal.

Thanks--Scott

While it's not the smartest of things to do, nor would I suggest it to others, I've driven the past 3 months on Pagid Oranges.

They are loud, poop out a lot of dust, and aren't that great at 'panic stops' but work fine for normal around town driving.

I recently autocrossed on the pads and found braking distance was not predictable at all when cold. I overshot a 'u' turn gate by about a car lenth past the cones. It felt similar to abs kicking in, but it was just the pads not grabbing well.

It's better to just spend the 30 minutes the night before swapping out pads.

its fine to drive to and from the track on race pads.

I've driven on the street with HT-10 and Porterfield R4 pads. No real drama.

They do work better when hot though :D

Jay

Carbotech XP10's work fine on the street also. I just drive to and from the track with them.

FWIW I used to always swap out from my street pads to PF97s at home before/after track weekends. I loved the PF97s, but they ruined a set of wheels and I was just plain getting lazy about changing.

I switched to Cobalt SpecVRs and did swap still once or twice, and then the laziness hit hard. :D I've been running the SpecVRs on the street and track since then with no problems. I always give room on the street, just in case, but they've worked perfectly fine in as low as 50 degrees. They do make noise from time to time and dust more than the street pads I was running, but I'd say they dust less (or less dark, anyway) than stock pads, but it's been a while since I ran factory pads.

Overall, you will make compromises if you're not switching pads back and forth, but the SpecVRs have been the best compromise pad I've found. Work well on the street and work very well as a race pad.

i have porterfield RS4's street/track pad i love them lasted a while with a few track days on them, lots of braking power and are decent when cold, they worked best obviously when hot but you wont hit them and nothing happen.

Another vote for Cobalt SpecVRs. I've had them on my car since May without any issues. Can speak for how well they stop in the cold since it's rarely below 50 here. Another is with running track pads on the street is they are more apt to trash your rims than street pads.

Thanks all--I will be swapping wheels (the RA-1's) so will switch the pads back and forth at the same time--it sounds like I not any more likely to kill somebody on the way to the track with track pads than with street pads, so I am good to go. Just gotta decide between the Hawks and the Cobalts.

EBC Yellow Stuff Rs?

Thanks all--I will be swapping wheels (the RA-1's) so will switch the pads back and forth at the same time--it sounds like I not any more likely to kill somebody on the way to the track with track pads than with street pads, so I am good to go. Just gotta decide between the Hawks and the Cobalts.

My vote would be the Cobalts, but everyone has a different opinion.

As for the swapping before/after and driving to/from the event, that works well. However, I also changed front rotors each time too. That way my race pads and street both had their own rotors already bedded in. If you're leaving the same rotors, you might ask around and try to get compounds that will "mix" well and not cause excessive pad deposits. You will need to bed both sets in again each time you swap, however, so be prepared to not have much stopping power after the other pads get put in if you're not running dedicated rotors. My vote is for dedicated rotors if you're going to swap back and forth.

I been using Ferodo DS2500's. About as close as dual use pad as I've found. And I've used everything...
Can still squeal a little on the street, not the hitting-a-wall feel of hot HT-10/14's, but they do have a good heat range.

I loved the PF97s, but they ruined a set of wheels and I was just plain getting lazy about changing.


I'm running PFC01's in the front and 97's in the rears. I didn't clean my wheels and went out in the rain... after a week sitting in my garage the dust came off the fronts with a simple wipe down, but the rears were near impossible to clean. I can easily see how they would ruin a set of wheels.

its fine to drive to and from the track on race pads.
Sean, what pads do you run?

I ran HT-10s last year and used them for several weeks after my DE. I thought they worked great, but were loud. This year I am runnig Hawk Blues so will not run them on the street. (bad dust)

I have HT-10s. I put them on the night before and drive very carefully to and from the track. I won't drive the car again when I get back until the street pads are back on.

I'm amazed how many people here drive around with race pads. They don't work worth a damn on the street.

Have you ever driven on Metal masters. They are a street bad that many people use. HT10s work better than them on the street.

You should try using a set of Cobalt GT-Sport pads. These are incredible dual duty pads and the wear is good. They are loud for street but they actually work cold. Plus, with proper braking technique I have not been able to overheat these. Oh, and make sure you get some decent brake fluid they do make a difference.

Sean, what pads do you run?

cobalt spec VR's, hawk ht10's or ht14/10.

SG--2 ?'s

Which of the 3 pad choices that you mentioned, in your opinion, are the easiest for someone with less experience to modulate a smooth brake release with (the 2 times I've driven a car with track pads, I'm smooth on, good with modulation, but jerky coming off)?

Why would one choose HT 14/10's versus 10's at all four corners?

Thanks--Scott

I have driven Carbotech XP9/8 on the street. Although not ideal, they seem to work fine if you can get over the dust and squeal. Ofcourse they dont perform the same as they do when warm on the track but they get the job done.

I have driven Carbotech XP9/8 on the street. Although not ideal, they seem to work fine if you can get over the dust and squeal. Ofcourse they dont perform the same as they do when warm on the track but they get the job done.
How's the wear on those Carbotechs?

I can't say I havn't been guilty of running race pads on the street before, heck I even made the 3 hour trip home from a race at Road Atlant on Hawk Blues (in a spec miata)!
Other than blues, there are actually alot or race pads that work OK on the street regarding cold stopping power. The key thing I just wanted to mention is that initial bed-in is very important on many race pads, and driving on the street on cold pads will "erase" your bed in procedure nearly completely. All that nice pad material you evenly transferred to your rotor by following manufacturer bed in instructions is lost as the cold (and now very abrasive) race pad is scrapped across the rotor at street temps.
This isn't as critical with certain pads, but it is an issue to consider.

i have porterfield RS4's street/track pad i love them lasted a while with a few track days on them, lots of braking power and are decent when cold, they worked best obviously when hot but you wont hit them and nothing happen.
I run the R4-S on the street (it meant for street/auto-x) and they are great on the street, and great at auto-x. On the track, they are ok for a couple laps, but they fade. The braking force is still good, but you really have to put your foot to the floor.

I am going to get a set of HT-10 to use for the track.

How's the wear on those Carbotechs?

I can't remember the exact number of days that I got out of my last set of pads, but I think that I got ~4-5 weekends out of the fronts (XP9) and about double for the RR (XP8). As an added bonus, they seem to be pretty easy on the Rotors and the dust cleans up w/ water.

I can't remember the exact number of days that I got out of my last set of pads, but I think that I got ~4-5 weekends out of the fronts (XP9) and about double for the RR (XP8). As an added bonus, they seem to be pretty easy on the Rotors and the dust cleans up w/ water.
Does 4-5 weekends=8-10 days?
Are you on street tires or r-comps?

Pads in the same temp. range should all wear about the same.

I run Carbotech because Ive never had issue w/ the dust destroying my wheels.... that and I get them cheap ;) :D

I want them for cheap :( . I want everything cheap!

I've driven on the street with HT-10 and Porterfield R4 pads. No real drama.

They do work better when hot though :D

Jay
I've driven from SD to Laguna for a trackday on R4's without any problem. Not much stop and go traffic though. The next day tooling around town the brakes were WAILING. I couldn't believe how loud they were. It was so funny. At the track, it sounds cool no one cares. On the street, everyone looks at you weird at every stop light.