SilverState
12-19-2005, 03:10 AM
I installed the Magnaflow today. I have the stock airbox/filter, stock headers, and stock program.
A couple of installation tips before I forget:
If you are going to do the job yourself, you really should have two people. It is not that it is a difficult job, but an extra set of hands really comes in handy.
Before you begin, go to the hardware store and get a bunch of washers in two sizes. One stack (around 4 inches) should be of a size slightly bigger than 1/4". The second stack (around 3 inches) should be of 3/8" or slightly smaller. You won't use all these washers, but it is better to have more and not need them, than to have to run back to the hardware store. All of these washers will be used to shim the body crossmembers (the two straight ones and the v-shaped one).
Before you get to work, you will need to jack the car up. Use a rack with rubber inserts and be careful not to contact the side skirts. In the front, on the passenger side, make sure your jack gives you enough room to work with the exhaust pipe.
As for tools, you are going to need various sockets, some deep, some swivel, and a 12 point 10mm (I think) for the flange that goes to the headers. I guess you could use the box end of a combo wrench for that, but it must be thin. An air ratchet is nice. A short open end 13 or 14 will also be needed for that same flange. Some of the sizes that come to mind are 3/8 and 10mm-16mm. A tranny jack is really helpful as well, especially when removing the stock muffler.
Removing the exahaust was fairly straightforward as indicated in the Magnaflow instructions. One thing, the driver's side of the stock muffler HAS TWO BRACKETS and you will need a deep swivel socket and a long extension to get to the nut that is the right inside the bumpercover. Undo that one first.
As to my review of the exhaust:
Let's start with the kit. I appears to be a high quality kit. All stainless steel packaged very nicely and protected with bubble wrap, paper, and foam. The hardware is thick and grade 8 bolts. The instructions are okay, but could use some more info about the driver's side rear bracket and the 12pt. flange bolts. But overall, I have bought kits for twice the money that were half as good.
Fitment. Everything lined up well. I did not have to cut or pry or use heat wrap/sleeves for anything. The only inconvenience, like I said, was having to shim the cross members for clearance. Also, my tips are not perfectly aligned - the driver's side sits a little lower than the passenger side. But the casual observer would never notice.
Now the good stuff. Sound. I was a little concerned that the sound would be ricey. I am used to V8s and I was dreading the shound of a ricey Honda coming from my $50K BMW. I was pleasantly surprised when I turned the key. THIS IS HOW THIS CAR SHOULD HAVE COME FROM THE FACTORY. It now sounds like a sports car. It is classy and aggressive at the same time. Absolutely perfect. No drone, no vibration, no stalling, no codes, none of that. With the radio on, you can hardly hear it. But I drove with the radio off, so I could hear and enjoy the sound of my Motorsports 3 Series.
Performance. A friend of mine is tracking down a GT1 so I can put my car in dyno mode and do some pulls when I am in L.A. I will let you know the exact numbers. By then, I will have some other things done as well. But SOTP tells me this thing is quite a bit quicker - wraps out smooth and fast.
Weight. This kit is WAY lighter than stock. Less weight, quicker acceleration, shorter stopping distance, more nimble, etc.
CONCLUSION: Excellent value in many ways and no regrets.
A couple of installation tips before I forget:
If you are going to do the job yourself, you really should have two people. It is not that it is a difficult job, but an extra set of hands really comes in handy.
Before you begin, go to the hardware store and get a bunch of washers in two sizes. One stack (around 4 inches) should be of a size slightly bigger than 1/4". The second stack (around 3 inches) should be of 3/8" or slightly smaller. You won't use all these washers, but it is better to have more and not need them, than to have to run back to the hardware store. All of these washers will be used to shim the body crossmembers (the two straight ones and the v-shaped one).
Before you get to work, you will need to jack the car up. Use a rack with rubber inserts and be careful not to contact the side skirts. In the front, on the passenger side, make sure your jack gives you enough room to work with the exhaust pipe.
As for tools, you are going to need various sockets, some deep, some swivel, and a 12 point 10mm (I think) for the flange that goes to the headers. I guess you could use the box end of a combo wrench for that, but it must be thin. An air ratchet is nice. A short open end 13 or 14 will also be needed for that same flange. Some of the sizes that come to mind are 3/8 and 10mm-16mm. A tranny jack is really helpful as well, especially when removing the stock muffler.
Removing the exahaust was fairly straightforward as indicated in the Magnaflow instructions. One thing, the driver's side of the stock muffler HAS TWO BRACKETS and you will need a deep swivel socket and a long extension to get to the nut that is the right inside the bumpercover. Undo that one first.
As to my review of the exhaust:
Let's start with the kit. I appears to be a high quality kit. All stainless steel packaged very nicely and protected with bubble wrap, paper, and foam. The hardware is thick and grade 8 bolts. The instructions are okay, but could use some more info about the driver's side rear bracket and the 12pt. flange bolts. But overall, I have bought kits for twice the money that were half as good.
Fitment. Everything lined up well. I did not have to cut or pry or use heat wrap/sleeves for anything. The only inconvenience, like I said, was having to shim the cross members for clearance. Also, my tips are not perfectly aligned - the driver's side sits a little lower than the passenger side. But the casual observer would never notice.
Now the good stuff. Sound. I was a little concerned that the sound would be ricey. I am used to V8s and I was dreading the shound of a ricey Honda coming from my $50K BMW. I was pleasantly surprised when I turned the key. THIS IS HOW THIS CAR SHOULD HAVE COME FROM THE FACTORY. It now sounds like a sports car. It is classy and aggressive at the same time. Absolutely perfect. No drone, no vibration, no stalling, no codes, none of that. With the radio on, you can hardly hear it. But I drove with the radio off, so I could hear and enjoy the sound of my Motorsports 3 Series.
Performance. A friend of mine is tracking down a GT1 so I can put my car in dyno mode and do some pulls when I am in L.A. I will let you know the exact numbers. By then, I will have some other things done as well. But SOTP tells me this thing is quite a bit quicker - wraps out smooth and fast.
Weight. This kit is WAY lighter than stock. Less weight, quicker acceleration, shorter stopping distance, more nimble, etc.
CONCLUSION: Excellent value in many ways and no regrets.