I have done a search and read all the stories about the bad software, and Osh or whatever his name is. My question is, Is it actaully a good kit with different software? The kit is already installed and the car runs perfect with no issues. Are the people at RMS just bad or is it their kit too? Thanks

The RMS hardware is great. People have had mixed results with the sw but there are plenty of cars with RMS sw that runs good (I believe Croaks RMS sw even outperformed Nick Gs sw). You can always take it to a dyno to get the AF ratio checked.

Good hardware, dubious software... Kinda like asking yourself, do I want a
girlfriend with an incurable STD, even though she makes Heidi Klum look like
a drag queen?


..

Good hardware, dubious software... Kinda like asking yourself, do I want a
girlfriend with an incurable STD, even though she makes Heidi Klum look like
a drag queen?


..:lol:lol:lol:lol

The hardware is great and you can always get a retune. Take it to a dyno and find out what it is doing or hook up a scan tool and check the timing advance along with the AFR's to see how it is running. The dyno will give AFR's but won't tell you how much advance is being run. We sell RMS hardware all the time but don't include their software.

The hardware is great and you can always get a retune. Take it to a dyno and find out what it is doing or hook up a scan tool and check the timing advance along with the AFR's to see how it is running. The dyno will give AFR's but won't tell you how much advance is being run. We sell RMS hardware all the time but don't include their software.^^^

MDex, it is actually in Charlotte. Do you know of a silver M3 coupe?
Thanks for the replies.

Nope, but I could likely go take a look at it for you,take some pics, talk to the guy, etc. :)

If the car is has had the s/c for any length of time I am pretty sure the software is ok. What year is the car. Osh has a good program for the obd1 cars. My car has a good tune on it and it is obd2. He has had some very mixed results on the obd2 cars.

The RMS hardware is great. People have had mixed results with the sw but there are plenty of cars with RMS sw that runs good (I believe Croaks RMS sw even outperformed Nick Gs sw). You can always take it to a dyno to get the AF ratio checked.


Youre entitled to your opinion, but id love to hear how you came to that conclusion! Youd have to find an M3, configured identically, same boost levels, etc, etc, to even come to an estimation. Nick developed his software for the rms aftercooled configuration on my car.. And since Im running different parts and upgrades than Croak is, I just wonder where else you got this information? I have no problem if its an accurate statement.. I may be wrong, but so far as Im aware, nicks custom software is not running on an identically configured car to croaks..

When I was researching forced induction WAY back before many people had it, I had to decide about RMS. They were about a 1/2 mile from my house so I used to walk over there alot and check it out.

I ultimately decided no, and went turbo, which was even worse for me.

Anyhow, I'm about to buy another M3 and my car isn't going anywhere near RMS hardware or software ever. Let's say I learned my lesson about going cheap the first time around.

Youre entitled to your opinion, but id love to hear how you came to that conclusion! ..


croak posted- "I've been running RMS software for over a year and a half, it REPLACED my lackluster Technique Tuning software, and I'm very happy with it."

When I was researching forced induction WAY back before many people had it, I had to decide about RMS. They were about a 1/2 mile from my house so I used to walk over there alot and check it out.

I ultimately decided no, and went turbo, which was even worse for me.

Anyhow, I'm about to buy another M3 and my car isn't going anywhere near RMS hardware or software ever. Let's say I learned my lesson about going cheap the first time around.

I can appreciate your feelings on RMS software but there is nothing "Cheap" about their hardware. They build as good of CF hardware as anybody.

Good hardware, dubious software... Kinda like asking yourself, do I want a
girlfriend with an incurable STD, even though she makes Heidi Klum look like
a drag queen?


..
qft! :rofl

When I was researching forced induction WAY back before many people had it, I had to decide about RMS. They were about a 1/2 mile from my house so I used to walk over there alot and check it out.

I ultimately decided no, and went turbo, which was even worse for me.

Anyhow, I'm about to buy another M3 and my car isn't going anywhere near RMS hardware or software ever. Let's say I learned my lesson about going cheap the first time around.

Keeping your supra right?

I recently picked up a used RMS stage 2 setup for my car. The car it was on befor ran it for over 10,000 miles with no problems. I think there are a few people out there that had problems and bad news travels fast. From the research that I've done, I wouldn't say that all their software is bad. The kit will be installed on my car this month and ready to drive once the snow is gone. The car will go on a dyno after the kit is installed to check air/fuel and I'm having a wideband air fuel gauge installed for good measure.

The RMS hardware is great. People have had mixed results with the sw but there are plenty of cars with RMS sw that runs good (I believe Croaks RMS sw even outperformed Nick Gs sw). You can always take it to a dyno to get the AF ratio checked.

I think if you really want to compare it, look at 3 Cars with similar mods. PaulEs car comes to mind as what you would expect in a pretty well moded RMS II+ kit.

As for NickG's tuning, I think hes better with OBDII and the S52/S50 M52/M50s then AA or RMS. I haven't seen first hand experience with the M54/S54s so I can't comment. However, I would like to see someone reach 430s without cams. Even 415 without head work. I mean croak very close to 400 and off a 3.0 I do believe that is a great tune. I haven't seen his AFRs, but I'm sure hes aware of them.

As for me, I'm highly debating to add cams, and go with high flowing race Cats just to see what I peak at. And then everyone with or without cams can wait to see which CF kit has the most HP...

i wouldnt go as far as to say that Charlie. AA has been in the turbo tuning world far before Nick G even surfaced. If you look at the turbo tunes Karl & Barry have performed on so many different cars you will see the AFRs be on the money. For example look at Card Counters custom tune (remote). As for my OBD2 tune i squeezed out 411rwhp and 340rwtq running ONLY 10psi on 91 octane but yes i have cams and track pipe but no head work (other than MLS HG stock compression). My tune is not yet complete since it was an experiment at first. But once the tune is perfected we will see the finishing product. ;)
i wouldnt denounce any tuner's skills on the boards nor am i offending Nick G. in any way. Each have their own unique methods of successful tuning.

As for buying an RMS kitted car. Why not. If teh car is already setup, all proper tests are done to reassure engine is healthy, then you would be saving tons of money if you were to mod a stock car yourself. You can always get a retune whether it be AA or Nick G. Alot of time and money goes into putting a kit onto a car properly. in this case the car is already setup. Just make sure everything is properly setup for reassurance.

I've had AA tuning as well before Osh's Tune. I got a copy of a file they had already. That was when the head wasn't worked on...

In general AA is good, NickG is good, and Jim Conforti is good. But which one is better is a matter of whats important to you. Some are known to get aggressive. Some arent...

And ask Paul, he has even had Dinan's prior to NickGs.

Ask George... he might have an opinion based of using both of them...

I've had AA tuning as well before Osh's Tune. I got a copy of a file they had already. That was when the head wasn't worked on...

In general AA is good, NickG is good, and Jim Conforti is good. But which one is better is a matter of whats important to you. Some are known to get aggressive. Some arent...

And ask Paul, he has even had Dinan's prior to NickGs.

Ask George... he might have an opinion based of using both of them...

Is there anybody else running your tuning on another car? I am curious what other results have been on your level of boost.

Is there anybody else running your tuning on another car? I am curious what other results have been on your level of boost.

I don't sell tuning. And if someone wished to buy a package from Eurobhan at ICS and have Nick's tuning that was done on my vehicles, I'm sure we could measure something. That said, PaulE is running NickGs tuning. Once the M50 manifold comes in and he does a retweak, I'm sure we could have more people proove Nick's capability.

Remember I started off with the 11 psi crank pulley that RMS sells with the car. Only thing I upgraded was to the 8 rib setup. I'm also set for redline at 7,000 rpm. That with the M50, and and ported heads, performance valves, etc... I'm deff holding better better boost across the engine... Besides doesn't KO sell a kit that upgrades boost between 11-11.5psi. I'd be curious to see what size pulley that uses. Seriously we all look at the boost level and say 11-11.5 is max. But the real thing is to see how fast the blower is moving. The faster is moves, the more heat it generates... and that is dangerous IMHO. If I had the same sized pulley with the same IATs and was holding 13psi, I would not be worried about that much boost... But thats me personally.

But like I said, we'll see how well the car does IF/WHEN I get the cams, and/or hi flow race cats...

for sure you are making more than 11.8psi boost spinning that blower 48384rpms (3.125"blower pulley/6"crankpulley). Your ported head and headers, M50 manifold are processing less backpressure reading you 11.8 but in actuality you are running >11.8psi. Your higher psi is flowing through your ported head better reducing teh backpressure which measures the boost. You are actually using the compressed air to make more power rather then boost. What im trying to get at is you probably are running in an excess of 12.5+psi boost.

I was just curious if Nick had another car running similar boost as yours making your numbers on a dyno other than George's. I could be wrong but I would be suprised if Paul goes to 434whp from installing an M50 manifold on his car.

for sure you are making more than 11.8psi boost spinning that blower 48384rpms (3.125"blower pulley/6"crankpulley). Your ported head and headers will reduce the gauge reading to maybe 11.8 but in actuality you are running >11.8psi. Your higher psi is flowing through your ported head better reducing teh backpressure which measures the boost. You are actually using the compressed air to make more power rather then boost. What im trying to get at is you probably are running in an excess of 12.5+psi boost.

I run a 3.48 pulley like Paul does and I barely touch 10lbs of boost. I agree that 3.125 pulley is making more boost than 11.8.

I was just curious if Nick had another car running similar boost as yours making your numbers on a dyno other than George's. I could be wrong but I would be suprised if Paul goes to 434whp from installing an M50 manifold on his car.

i wouldnt say that Jim. Im sure his car is making that kind of power. CArcrazed put a lot of work into his car.

:nutz: and I've taken a few ones too. We are going to make another run on the dyno with the Boost hooked up, with the cams installed, and to see how close we are. Besides think about it this way, if your car only ran upto 6500 rpm, and you made 11psi, would you not expect more at 7000. So what would you say if I increased my redline to 7200?

In general, you must remember that everyone is going to peak different numbers of boost.

BTW, my car will be measured at 0 SAE correction, and I will also make sure we have a plot with 0 Smoothing Correction.

As for wether I'm actually making the power or not, I'm not going to even start and debate. Lets just say I'm happy with my power, and with the 3.38LSD still alive, I can finally go happy on pushing the car.

:nutz: and I've taken a few ones too. We are going to make another run on the dyno with the Boost hooked up, with the cams installed, and to see how close we are. Besides think about it this way, if your car only ran upto 6500 rpm, and you made 11psi, would you not expect more at 7000. So what would you say if I increased my redline to 7200?

In general, you must remember that everyone is going to peak different numbers of boost.

BTW, my car will be measured at 0 SAE correction, and I will also make sure we have a plot with 0 Smoothing Correction.

As for wether I'm actually making the power or not, I'm not going to even start and debate. Lets just say I'm happy with my power, and with the 3.38LSD still alive, I can finally go happy on pushing the car.

hey im not kicking you around. thats a great accomplishment you have made. Your car was sweet when i saw it. im not questioning its power, but im just not sure on the boost level with those pulley combos. I may be wrong, and by all means if i am then ill admit it. I dont need any proof. you know what your car can do and thats the main idea at hand...

I was just curious if Nick had another car running similar boost as yours making your numbers on a dyno other than George's. I could be wrong but I would be suprised if Paul goes to 434whp from installing an M50 manifold on his car.


Ah. maybe you didnt know... hes got an awful lot of stuff on his car to make 434 whp than I do. being a daily driver and my only car, IM not going to go as far out on a limb as some of you other guys.. I doubt Ill go catless, or install new cams.... or headers... or ud pulleys, or some of the other stuff you guys have done... Some are even running more than 10 psi boost!! ;)

I just love how people around here compare cars that have totally different setups, and then come to some imagined conclusion about the tuning...

Paul are you saying im running >10psi boost?
Ill put to you this way. Before my cams went in my gauge displayed 10.5psi. Since the cams were installed, good job by the way, i now only see 10 psi boost. im sure im still running 10.5psi, yet im using that .5psi more efficiently making more power rather than backpressure. you will see once your M50 goes in how the boost will drop from your normal respected value.

I can appreciate your feelings on RMS software but there is nothing "Cheap" about their hardware. They build as good of CF hardware as anybody.

You're entitled to your opinion, I wouldn't necessarily agree, but whatever.

Ah. maybe you didnt know... hes got an awful lot of stuff on his car to make 434 whp than I do. being a daily driver and my only car, IM not going to go as far out on a limb as some of you other guys.. I doubt Ill go catless, or install new cams.... or headers... or ud pulleys, or some of the other stuff you guys have done... Some are even running more than 10 psi boost!! ;)

I just love how people around here compare cars that have totally different setups, and then come to some imagined conclusion about the tuning...

Paul,

I understand completely, I agree that there is a ragged edge some people live on to make more power. But Schrick cams and underdrive pulleys aren't exactly threshold pushing modifications. I also am not trying to compare tunes as much as see if there were additional people running your software out there with dyno's. Carcrazed numbers are fantastic but track pipes and manifolds only account for so much power. At some point that additional power is made on additional boost. Cars are going to make similar power with similar mods. Angelos car and mine are about the same less the charge cooling. If you look at his HP numbers I would expect mine to be about the same once I add a charge cooler.

Remember my pullies are nothing more then UUC Underdrive Pullies. And if you look closer, you will see there really is no risk.

1) No Alternator pulley.
2) Power Steering Pulley is there, and underdriven as well as lightened.
3) Water Pump, Pulley is there, underdrive and lightened. My Water Pump flows well, and with the upgraded cooling system, I've noticed the Water Pump is not the weak spot...
4) A/C is not touched.
5) Crank is not touched.

So where would there be a pulley changed that would affect my SC's overall pulley affect.

As for mods, my 431/437 was done with OEM Cams, OEM Cats ;) We'll see how it does with Schrick Cams or Sunbelt Cams and Race/Hi Flow cats.

And IIRC 11-12psi was considered safe when all the numbers were looked at. Isn't there even another car that does 14.5psi?

Remember my pullies are nothing more then UUC Underdrive Pullies. And if you look closer, you will see there really is no risk.

1) No Alternator pulley.
2) Power Steering Pulley is there, and underdriven as well as lightened.
3) Water Pump, Pulley is there, underdrive and lightened. My Water Pump flows well, and with the upgraded cooling system, I've noticed the Water Pump is not the weak spot...
4) A/C is not touched.
5) Crank is not touched.

So where would there be a pulley changed that would affect my SC's overall pulley affect.

As for mods, my 431/437 was done with OEM Cams, OEM Cats ;) We'll see how it does with Schrick Cams or Sunbelt Cams and Race/Hi Flow cats.

And IIRC 11-12psi was considered safe when all the numbers were looked at. Isn't there even another car that does 14.5psi?
correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the ps pump pulley...plastic?

correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the ps pump pulley...plastic?

I was going to go out to the car and look but realized its not here ;)

However, I beleive this thread has basically been hijacked even though its somewhat on topic.

In general, buying an RMS car is not a bad thing. Just see get a dyno showing some AFR curves and also how long its been driven on that setup...

Make your choices for alternate tuning from there if it need be.

Carcrazed.... how bout listing your mods? We both have stock cams and stock cat... From what I gather, items you had at the time of your dyno that I dont have include

M50 manifold
Headers
Ported heads
Underdrive pulley
more boost

I dont know for a fact that you have all these; just from various sources Ive heard... Like I heard you were making 12-12.5 psi on the dyno. Look.. it only stands to reason.. There HAS to be a reason for the increases..

Those items have to account for 64 whp(431-367) and 41 wftlbs (345-304)

Lets do some approximation.. lets say the manifold is good for 20 whp, and that Headers, Ported heads, Underdrive pulley, and more boost (12-12.5) each average out to a 10 whp increase contribution. That would represent roughly 60 whp, and could explain your increase over my setup. Youve got a beautiful result, and Im anxious to see how far you can go with it. Listen, Dude, youve got a Heavy Weight on your shoulders, representing all us SC M3 owners out there :) Do us proud :D

Carcrazed.... how bout listing your mods? We both have stock cams and stock cat... From what I gather, items you had at the time of your dyno that I dont have include

M50 manifold
Headers
Ported heads
Underdrive pulley
more boost

I dont know for a fact that you have all these; just from various sources Ive heard... Like I heard you were making 12-12.5 psi on the dyno. Look.. it only stands to reason.. There HAS to be a reason for the increases..

Those items have to account for 64 whp(431-367) and 41 wftlbs (345-304)

Lets do some approximation.. lets say the manifold is good for 20 whp, and that Headers, Ported heads, Underdrive pulley, and more boost (12-12.5) each average out to a 10 whp increase contribution. That would represent roughly 60 whp, and could explain your increase over my setup. Youve got a beautiful result, and Im anxious to see how far you can go with it. Listen, Dude, youve got a Heavy Weight on your shoulders, representing all us SC M3 owners out there :) Do us proud :D

We'll youve about listed it.

I just shot Jim an email to see if he can still get me a deal on the cams for $995 + S&H. If so, I'm having them overnighted to George and getting them installed. I'm sure a tweak will be needed from NickG, but I had a small tweak he needed to do anyway with misfire detection for RaceLogic, so we'll see if he'll take care of me on the retune. If he does, and all the numbers make sense (Since I'm seriously broke as a joke from Grad school and all my other expenses) then I'm giving George the go ahead to drop um in.

I'll keep everyone posted. I'm breaking the 450rwhp mark @ 7000rpm. I'll also have the boost hook up so we can see the psi. If its more then what we feel safe, then we'll see about dropping the size pulley on it.

11.8 psi is what I measure on my gauge. 12.5 is what I thought the math came out too. But its amazing how I went up .8 using an M50 manifold, ported heads, angled valves...

We'll see.

We'll youve about listed it.

I just shot Jim an email to see if he can still get me a deal on the cams for $995 + S&H. If so, I'm having them overnighted to George and getting them installed. I'm sure a tweak will be needed from NickG, but I had a small tweak he needed to do anyway with misfire detection for RaceLogic, so we'll see if he'll take care of me on the retune. If he does, and all the numbers make sense (Since I'm seriously broke as a joke from Grad school and all my other expenses) then I'm giving George the go ahead to drop um in.

I'll keep everyone posted. I'm breaking the 450rwhp mark @ 7000rpm. I'll also have the boost hook up so we can see the psi. If its more then what we feel safe, then we'll see about dropping the size pulley on it.

11.8 psi is what I measure on my gauge. 12.5 is what I thought the math came out too. But its amazing how I went up .8 using an M50 manifold, ported heads, angled valves...

We'll see.

Not for nothing, but how 'Broke' could you be, and yet be able to own: : 99 M3, 97 NSX-T, 03 S55, 04 RX330 ??

IF this is what you own, after coming out of Grad School stone broke, I can just imagine what the collection will look like after a few good years in the work force earning that big, Grad School generated Salary!! :)

Charlie,

I shot you back an e-mail give me a call and we'll get those cams out to you asap.

Well the 97 NSX and the 99 M3 are mine. I stretched for the NSX as a daily driver while the project car (the M3) was being done. At the time the finances added up and barely. But with the delay, court case with European Performance/ERT for the 120 hour install, and then paying ICS to uninstall and reinstall everything European Performance f*d up, it was a very costly proposition. I'm sure after I win the case, I'll get rewarded... but until then I'm still broke.

Add to that Grad School fees which aren't cheap... and you get the picture.

But hey thats what life is all about.

Here is a new thread I started...
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=453053

Jim: Checking email now.

We'll youve about listed it.



11.8 psi is what I measure on my gauge. 12.5 is what I thought the math came out too. But its amazing how I went up .8 using an M50 manifold, ported heads, angled valves...

We'll see.
the boost doesnt go up adding the manifold, it will decrease due to a better flow and usage of the present boost yielding more power rather then recorded boost. Likewise before my cams i was at 10.5 psi (and yes that was running the M50 manifold) but after the cam install my boost reading dropped to 10psi due to more efficienct usage of the present boost. With the cams Charlie your boost readout will also drop. Good luck on the install. George did a great job on mine and im sure he will get yours right.

the boost doesnt go up adding the manifold, it will decrease due to a better flow and usage of the present boost yielding more power rather then recorded boost. Likewise before my cams i was at 10.5 psi (and yes that was running the M50 manifold) but after the cam install my boost reading dropped to 10psi due to more efficienct usage of the present boost. With the cams Charlie your boost readout will also drop. Good luck on the install. George did a great job on mine and im sure he will get yours right.

Since youre talking about boost going up or down, are you surprised that my boost went up about 1.5 psi with the addition of the 3.5" hfm? If opening up the HFM causes boost to go up, why would opening up the manifold cause it to go down? It happened down at Nick's shop.. I was at 11 psi before the the HFM upgrade... After, it went immediately to about 12.5.. Thats why I had to go with a 3.48" pulley from 3.33", and that managed to get it back down to the current ~10.2 psi

thats odd. im speaking in terms of my experience. i never inspected teh differences with teh HFM since mine was all installed at once. It could be the HFM is not processing, but allowing for ahigher flow of air in thsu creating mopre potential for boost, but teh manifoldn is circulating it, where it can drastically drop. Im no expert on how and what happens to teh boost once it is processed and what determines the specific backpressure craeting the boosta t hand. ill leave that top the engineers. boost is backpressure. if you can use it more efficiently the readout on the gauge may decrease but overall the same boost is entering. The HFM makes sense raising teh boost because it alows a higher flw of air in rather than restricting it with a 3"HFM. In just about every car more airflow= more power.

thats odd. im speaking in terms of my experience. i never inspected teh differences with teh HFM since mine was all installed at once. It could be the HFM is not processing, but allowing for ahigher flow of air in thsu creating mopre potential for boost, but teh manifoldn is circulating it, where it can drastically drop. Im no expert on how and what happens to teh boost once it is processed and what determines the specific backpressure craeting the boosta t hand. ill leave that top the engineers. boost is backpressure. if you can use it more efficiently the readout on the gauge may decrease but overall the same boost is entering. The HFM makes sense raising teh boost because it alows a higher flw of air in rather than restricting it with a 3"HFM. In just about every car more airflow= more power.

Right.. So, if more flow = more power, and if boost went up with the 3.5" hfm because there was greater flow, then since the M50 manifold ALSO has greater flow, then why wouldnt boost go up with that too?? Lets hear from some engineers.. Steve? Nick? etc, etc...

hey im not kicking you around. thats a great accomplishment you have made. Your car was sweet when i saw it. im not questioning its power, but im just not sure on the boost level with those pulley combos. I may be wrong, and by all means if i am then ill admit it. I dont need any proof. you know what your car can do and thats the main idea at hand...
He has header which will automatically lower the boost. The cams will also rob 1 psi of boost but make up the difference in power.

Right.. So, if more flow = more power, and if boost went up with the 3.5" hfm because there was greater flow, then since the M50 manifold ALSO has greater flow, then why wouldnt boost go up with that too?? Lets hear from some engineers.. Steve? Nick? etc, etc...

PAul but teh HFM is allowing the metered air to come in to teh blower itself not the manifold. The manifold is what is playing with teh boost to an extent making power out of it. the manifold doesnt suck in more air itself.

He has header which will automatically lower the boost. The cams will also rob 1 psi of boost but make up the difference in power.
so the truth is our gauge readouts are false when in reality we are running more boost just using it better before it can be read as boost on the gauge. that was my point.

Paul opened up the HFM, but kept the M52 manifold..more airflow into the restrictive plenum, to pile up and increase gauge pressure while it was waiting to take a trip into the combustion chamber.

The stock cats are also a huge bottleneck as well. If the motor is an air pump the more effeciently it can move air in and out the less boost pressure it should have. The 3.5 is a removal of a major bottleneck. Anything freed up before the blower should increase boost. After the blower the bottlenecks in the system like the manifold and cats would decrease flow of the motor increasing manifold pressure. This is why I believe the high flow headers, track pipe, M50 manifold and cams really make this a much better breathing motor. Air can move through the system much more freely and effeciently. Another very positive byproduct is that heat from the cats doesn't make its way back up into the motor but is exhausted out of the system, making for a cooler motor.

Paul opened up the HFM, but kept the M52 manifold..more airflow into the restrictive plenum, to pile up and increase gauge pressure while it was waiting to take a trip into the combustion chamber.

Thanks Ang, Croak, Jim .... So, when the M50 manifold goes in, youd predict the boost to go back down again, probably forcing me to go back to the 3.33" pulley and 54.7" belt in order to remain between 10 and 11 psi.. My original 3.33" pulley was so chewed up after 50k+ miles of wear, Ill have to buy a new one !! I didnt realize the belts could tear up the pulleys so much. Ive heard it the other way around, but... Soft wearing out hard? weird.

My 3.33 was shot too when I took it off. They sieze on the blower and are very difficult to get off. I run the intake and the 3.48 and just barely touch 10lbs. Try it that way first. One thing for sure your motor will be more effecient at processing the air.

Thats a good idea, Jim.. Im at like 10.2-10.5 psi now... Even if it backs me down to 9.5 to 10 psi, Ill probably be seeing 20 or so more whp than now.. If so, Id like to be at the lower boost, so long as the power comes from up from mani the way I expect.