Hey guys,

I'm currently autocrossing a 98 Integra GS(non-VTEC engine) and as I get more into it, I am really wanting to get a different car. Not only for AutoX, but for street driving too.

I've been considering trying to get a '96 328is with a 5spd manual since this would just fit into my budget.

I'm wondering if anybody currently autocrosses a car similiar to this and how they do in D-stock? The biggest competition looks like the Integra Type R, so how do they stack up?

So is it even possible to be competitive in an E36 328is or is it one of those "hopeless" cars?

Thanks for any replies.

I used to run that same car in STS. It was competitive in that class. If you look at the national it is a competitive car in DS also.

Out of the box it should do well at a local event. Before going to a divisional or national event expect to replace the front sway bar and shocks if you want a chance.

Sounds good!

Since you autocrossed a 328is, what are some "must do" mods to really get it prep'd? Are there things like crash bolts that you can use to induce more negative camber, smaller front sway bar perhaps?

I don't have room for another set of wheels with R-compound tires, so I'll probably be going on street tires for a few years.

Also, what size wheels and tires come on a 328is stock? I know they're 16 inches tall, but cannot find the width.

Locally, the car will be fantastic for DS, unless you already have a hotshoe in the class. You would be competitive, though. Nationally, it will be tough to catch the top guys who drive Integra Type-R's (or WRX's at ProSolos/wet weather). A 325is with an LSD has a better chance nationally (speaking from experience). Or an E46 330i/Ci where you can put massive rubber under the car.
If you look to modify the car, it will be very good in STS or DSP, both locally and nationally. It will take time to dial-in, as I'm finding out.

Originally posted by Def
Sounds good!

Since you autocrossed a 328is, what are some "must do" mods to really get it prep'd? Are there things like crash bolts that you can use to induce more negative camber, smaller front sway bar perhaps?

I don't have room for another set of wheels with R-compound tires, so I'll probably be going on street tires for a few years.

Also, what size wheels and tires come on a 328is stock? I know they're 16 inches tall, but cannot find the width.

Stock wheels on E36 sport package cars are 16x7. I was able to run 225/50-16 Kuhmo Victoracers and Hoosier autoX tires as well as 245/45-16 in both brands. I felt the 225's did better, because the open diff didn't spin the inside rear tire as much as it would with the 245's exiting corners.
There are no factory provisions for changing camber. You can try to find some slop in the factory bolts, but there isn't much there. You will be putting the hurtin' on the outside edges of your front tires. You can change rear toe fairly easily.
I ran an adjustable bigger front bar, but on the softest setting. This helped keep the front end from diving around and allowed shock settings and tire pressures to dial-in oversteer.
If you want to run a street tire that is built like an R tire, try the Falken Azenis. They run really wide, the 215/45-16 is as wide or wider than most 225's! They have still sidewalls and large tread blocks, just like R tires. The compound is definetely not R, but its sticky for a street tire. Other good street tires that can double as decent autoX tires include Pirelli Pzero, BF Goodrich G-force KD, Yok Parada Spec-2, Bridgestone Pole Position S03, Michelin Pilot Sport.

My 328is pretty much stayed stock. The M3 was already on order at the time so I didn't want to put a lot of money in a car I wasn't going to keep for a while.

I would try a stiffer front bar. If you can keep the car from rolling then you will keep more of your front tire on the ground. Because of this a stiffer front bar doesn't always cause more understeer in a BMW. Also a stiffer front bar helps plant the back allowing you to get back on the power much earlier.

An excellent source for info for setting E36 cars is at:
Tunnell (http://www.tunnellracing.com/)

I don't know what your region is like but here STS was a lot of fun because of the large number of diffrent types of cars present. Also in STS you can do most of what you would normally do to a street car. If you want to really compete in STS you will eventually need a set of coils and sway bars.

The 325is is certainly competitive nationally as evidenced by Neil Sapp's 2nd place at the 2000 nationals on Kumho's. I belive this car had D/A koni's and a front bar.

IMO, the major issue with the 328is is the lack of a LSD. As others have said, it is hard to put the power down. However, my understanding is that *some* early 96 models came with a LSD with a running production change to the traction control mid-year so it would be legal for you to retrofit a LSD. Other than a good set of shocks and a front bar, the LSD would make the biggest difference. It should be competitive in STS as well, but it would cost alot more to prep it to the max of STS rules. A quick call to bimmerhouse and Bob tunnel would give you a better idea which class would be better for the car.

Hope this helps.

Bill Kim
ES 1986 944
1995 M3 street car

I think it would be pretty tough competition for a 328is. You will definitely need to do all modifcations that are legal. Integra Type Rs and WRXs seem to dominate, to a lesser extent E46 328s and 330s.

The open diff is the biggest problem, the only E36s that had them were M3s and first year 325is.

Might want to think about leaving the stock class with LSD and a fully modd'ed suspension...

I thought the BMW LSD's were the viscous type, thus not making THAT much of a difference over an open diff in quick cornering. Now a torsen, or "torque-sensing" unit, would be a HUGE leap forward.

I do eventually plan to go into STS, and I'm really not looking to dominate D-stock. Just want to know if my car has a chance. I don't want to be in the same situation where my non-VTEC Integra runs against GSRs.

BTW, what LSDs fit on an E36 328is and are the final drive ratios any different?

Thanks for the replies guys! Good stuff here.

Originally posted by Def
I thought the BMW LSD's were the viscous type, thus not making THAT much of a difference over an open diff in quick cornering. Now a torsen, or "torque-sensing" unit, would be a HUGE leap forward.

I do eventually plan to go into STS, and I'm really not looking to dominate D-stock. Just want to know if my car has a chance. I don't want to be in the same situation where my non-VTEC Integra runs against GSRs.

BTW, what LSDs fit on an E36 328is and are the final drive ratios any different?

Thanks for the replies guys! Good stuff here.

The BMW's use clutch pack LSD's. Better than a viscous, probably not as good as a Torsen (which Integra Type-R's have). The difference between my car with an open diff, and Brian Fitzpatrick's '94 325is with LSD at Solo2 Nationals GS (now DS) last year was amazing. I was spinning/smoking the inside rear tire on corner exits, while his car just hooked up and went on its way.
Pretty much all E36 LSD's are interchangeable. The 325's all had 3.15 ratios, while the M3's had some different ratios. A popular swap is the M3 automatic 3.38 (I think). Aftermarket, there's always Quaife.

One thing to keep in mind is you cannot run a non-stock LSD in STS. If you are planing to end up in STS then I would focus on a stiff front bar and/or springs to try to limit rear tire spin.

Right -- any non-viscious LSD disqualifies a car for STS. Thus, a '95 with factory clutch-type LSD is non allowed in STS.

I think the only recent BMW to have a viscous LSD is the e30 325ix.

The e46 M3 and Z3 Coupe / M Roadsters have torsen LSD's...but obviously none of them are allowed in STS. :)

Since I would like to eventually run STS - I guess its more open diff, tire smoking fun for me. :buttrock

Another question, how are the stock 328is springs(spring rates?) and shocks? I would like to go with an adjustable shock pretty soon after AutoXing it to help balance the car out.

I also saw a post that said someone was running crash bolts on a 3 series. This seems like a must if tires are going to last on a strut suspension. So could I use these to get about -1.0 to -1.5 degrees of camber in the front? I figure this would be fine for the street and really help tight hairpins where my Integra actually starts to "flop" over on the sidewall and rubberband back. It's pretty disconcerting.

I really appreciate the advic

I don't know how well crash bolts work. You will be using the outer half of your front tires unless you makes some changes though. You have a few choices. The bolts are probably the least effective. I know some people place washers in the lower suspension. Some say this works great and others say its not a good thing to do. I don't know either way. If you have the money a set of camber plates is the best option.

However, I would start with a set of sway bars. By making the front more stiff you will reduce the tendancy of the car to roll in turns and reduce the roll-over of the front wheels at the same time. Also with an open diff, this will limit weight transfer in the rear and help you hook up out of turns. It may or may not make the car understeer more depending on if the added contact patch of the outer front makes up for the added load placed on it.

Since you decided to run STS, you have many options to add front camber. Adding shims(washers) to the lower strut mounting bolts can add camber. There are supposed to be "crash" bolts, but I think it adds less than .5 degrees of camber. Camber plates are an option, but expensive. A cost effective camber plates are the top strut mounts from an M3. They are offset for camber and caster. Since the car you may buy will have atleast 50K miles on it, it is probably a good idea to replace the strut mounts anyways. You should be able to get a good price from bimmerparts.com or pacific BMW. There are two types of top mounts for an M3. One for 95 and one for 96+. I'm not sure which one you need, but probably the ones for 96+ and flip then L to R. Post on the E36 M3 forum for more info.

IMO, you will need atleast -1.5-2.5 of camber in the front to get even tire wear. Your driving style will also affect the wear pattern. If you are rough with the steering inputs and use too much steering lock, you will wear the outside edge of the front tires pretty quickly.

Hope this helps

Bill Kim