Knowledgeable M3 owners,

I recently bought an M3 from a member of S14.net (http://www.s14.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14663&perpage=15&pagenumber=2 ) and after driving it home and really getting to know the car a little better I have the following issues (I have searched this forum for the issues below but not had a 100% clear answer – I also don’t know what forum the SIG is that you all refer to)

1 – The engine seems to make a lot of valve noise. I test drove a 2.3 a couple months ago and it sounded like a Honda at idle and after driving. This 2.5 Don Fields build S14 makes a lot of noise. I could be wrong in guessing it’s valve noise as I’m not an engine expert.

2 – The fumes inside the car are pretty rough. It smells like oil to me. I read about a boot seal but have not seen anything concrete about it.

3 – I played with an E36 M3 on my way home yesterday and although he pulled on me at initial shift, by the time he was moving into 4th I was passing him. However, I did notice that the car seemed to run rich during this and generally runs on the rich side. I see that some of you say that’s fine as long as it’s not so rich it’s fouling the plugs. Perhaps this richness is contributing to the fumes? Comments on lean versus rich and suggestions on how to resolve.

4 – The steering feels spot on, one of the main reasons why I bought this car over the E36 M3. However, the steering wheel is at 11 o’clock when the wheels are pointed straight. Is there any adjustment to be made at the hub?

5 – The coolant light is on. Sounds like a simple replacement if it’s just the sensor. From my search it seems as though this could also be contributing to my richness. Where is the best place to buy the service manuals for the E30 M3 and the best place to buy OEM parts from (e.g. coolant sensor, seat belt receivers, et cetera)?

6 – I’m having a hard time finding the one piece sunroof seal. This car had a CF sunroof. It does not have the lining on the inside (which I would prefer) and the current two-peace seal is busted. P/N for the one piece seal?

7 – How do you stop driving these things?

Sorry if this list pisses anyone off. I sold my E46 convertible about 2 mo ago to buy a more involving car (I outgrew the E46). I test drove a bunch of cars, RX7, 350Z, ’72 911, E36 M3, S54 M Coupe, S52 M Roadster, 2.3 E30 M3 and a few other things I can’t remember. The only thing that offers more fun for the buck is a Rotax or shifter. 

I love this car, I just want to get it in a bit better running order so I feel comfortable doing an auto-x as a shakedown before the spring track season starts (Limerock, Summit and VIR).

I’d like to feel comfortable with the engine noise before I run her at the track. As far as the PO owner goes, he was a great person to deal with and we had to put up with the terrible flooding of last weekend in New England. We just have different ideas of what the E30 M3 is used for. :evil2

I dont have an E30 ///M3 but #4 can be corrected by getting a wheel alignment. My E30 325is had the same problem. Took it to Just Tires, problem solved.:) #1 is probably not a problem. I know on the M20B25 a semi-noisy valvetrain is a sign of proper adjustment but I suppose that could be different on the S14. I hope to be joining the E30 ///M3 ranks pretty soon. I'll keep my fingers crossed.:D

ABE

well not to scare you, but when my coolant light was on my engine was blown. it could be another problem. so dont go and jump to conclusions. you do have a different engine then mine also.

well not to scare you, but when my coolant light was on my engine was blown. it could be another problem. so dont go and jump to conclusions. you do have a different engine then mine also.
It's a problem with the coolant level sensor, the little buoy thing. Not the coolant temp sensor, but thanks. :embarrasm

my coolant light was on, so I put more coolant in and it turned off.

1988 E30 M3
Lachssilber.

http://www.gonestar.com/images/Blog%20Posts/Oct05/smallm3_1.JPG


2.5L S14
S52 timing tensioner
Apex underdrive pulleys
Sachs Clutch
B&M SSK

Evo II airbox
Evo II Headers
Supersprint midpipe
Borla exhaust

Front and Rear strut braces
Tokiko Shocks/H&R Springs

CF Bonnet
CF Sunroof
Evo II Splitter
Evo III Splitter

MK1 Wheels w/Black Centers 17x8.5, 17x9.5

I am now the owner of the 587th US-bound E30 M3.

The previous owner had a different idea of how to cosmetically modify an E30 M3, but fortunately the engine and suspension are pretty sound. The car has amazing feedback and mechanical grip and truly screams all the way to 8,000 rpm.

Here you can see some of the cosmetic modifications that will be resolved. The eyebrows and E36 M3 mirrors will be removed and sold. The bonnet will also be painted body color. I already removed the “CF” Roundel stickers.
http://www.gonestar.com/images/Blog%20Posts/Oct05/smallm3_2.JPG
Ellipsoids put out good light. Once I get it sorted out on track I’ll decide if I change the fog lights out for the Evo II brake ducts.

http://www.gonestar.com/images/Blog%20Posts/Oct05/smallm3_7.JPG
There are CF stickers everywhere. On the door sills, on the front grill M logo. I really don’t care for it. I plan on peeling off the sticker on the front M3 grill badge and spraying the M3 portion black, while retaining the color of the motorsport stripes. I like the way the stripes stand out against the blacked out Evo style grill.

Overall the body is in good condition. The one dent on the driver’s side front fender is being repaired when the car goes in the body shop in mid-November. The interior is pretty beat, and as I find stuff in junkyards and on ebay, I’ll start to piece it back together. The Corbeau seats, have nice side bolster support, but are pretty worn.

http://www.gonestar.com/images/Blog%20Posts/Oct05/smallm3_3.JPG
Here you can see the Evo II (top-body color) and Evo III (bottom–unpainted CF) splitters.

The car will see an alignment, oil change, valve adjustment and a tune-up before the spring track season gets here. I’ve had it up to 100mph with plenty of breath remaining. The way the power is delivered is quite intoxicating. It’s not as initially violent as the S52, it’s more of a fast progression to screaming.

http://www.gonestar.com/images/Blog%20Posts/Oct05/smallm3_4.JPG
Am I the only one that hates white gauges? I may see if they are just lay-overs, in which case, they are coming out. This is my first Motorsport, although it was produced at the primary factory in Munich for the homologation demands. BMW had a special team of engineers that would build the drivetrain. The engineers responsible for building the S14s were the highest paid BMW factory workers at the time.

The interior is a bit “fumey.” Perhaps there’s an exhaust leak that’s traveling up through the transmission tunnel. It’s a nagging issue at the moment and nothing that will stop me from seeing the track. This car also has the ever elusive rear head rests. I just thought I’d throw that in. The interior needs some new seats and a few bits of trim here and there. It will also be receiving a VSR rollbar.

http://www.gonestar.com/images/Blog%20Posts/Oct05/smallm3_5.JPG
This radio is painfully out of place. If you have a good recommendation for a Blaupunkt or other German-era looking radio, please let me know. The ability to hook up my Ipod is a must.

The engine really pulls along nicely, but sounds like it could use a bit of attention. All in due time.
http://www.gonestar.com/images/Blog%20Posts/Oct05/smallm3_6.JPG

If a few less than 5,000 were imported into the USA during 1988-1991, I'd wager that less than 3,000 are still in good street-legal condition. Add the history of Paul Rosche's masterpiece and you have a great piece of BMW tradition. It's one of only two race-cars built by the Motorsport division.

the valve train is fairly noisey on these cars, but it could also need a valve adjustment (something you should do once a year if you daily drive it).

The SIG group is an email based group with a searchable archive. You join it by going through your local BMWCCA chapter and paying the extra $5 for the E30M3 SIG.

Not sure what chip you're using (assuming you have one since it's a 2.5L) but most run rich, specially the JC chip

It looks like you have a momo (or similar wheel) you can adjust the position 2 ways, one on the tie rods or two, on the hub. Remove the screws around the center and remove the wheel. You'll be left with the hub and a large nut. Remove that and repostion the hub.

Make sure that the engine is really good (bottom end) for 8,000. I would say 7,000 is the max safe K(truly safe) RPM for the S14. If you search S14.net you will see the thread where I asked about this.

I agree that the radio looks out of place. My car has a Nakimichi which looks OK there, really I prefer the higher grade stock radio with the weather band and cassette player and may go back to that myself. The car has a cassette magazine in the console. They tend to be noisy enough that really high-end audio is a waste anyway.

It does not take any special tools to check valve clearance. Find out if the stock setting is right for your cams or maybe they need more clearance? Most aftermarket cams rob Peter to give Paul more high-RPM power....one of the things "Peter" loses out on sometimes is valve train noise.

Well congrats you got a real Don Fields 2.5 and that is fair compensation for cleaning off the faux CF bits.

On the fumes, maybe it is oil, or maybe the "pcv" hose system is loose/plugged?

Thanks for your help guys. I realized that the steering wheel mounting bracket is off. I don't what size socket I need to take the hub assembly off. I didn't have one in my tool box.

Ideas

Also, the rear passenger side floor is wet. No idea where this came from. :(

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The de-ricing process has begun. All stickers have been removed as have the eyelids.

http://www.gonestar.com/images/Blog%20Posts/Oct05/smallm3_9.JPG

The car only has one sticker on each rear side window - BMW.WilliamsF1. Yes I realize this was the last season, but I pay respect to the team that brought me into Formula 1.

http://www.gonestar.com/images/Blog%20Posts/Oct05/smallm3_8.JPG

I like the E36 Mirrors and the color of that car a lot.

A few easy questions.

How do I remove the side mirrors?

How do I remove the cluster?

I believe the hub bolt is 24mm.. but it's been awhile since i've pulled it.

To remove the side mirrors, pop off the inside cover and remove the 3 screws. You'll also have to unplug the wiring (carefully pull up on it to get some slack)

Cluster is removed by first taking off the bottom dash panel, 4 screws. Then reachign up behind to remove the nuts that hold the trim across the bottom of the cluster and above the steering column on. Then remove the screws for the cluster trim ring (4 acrosst the bottom, 2 up top). Finally, the 2 screws for the cluster.

Sweet. Thanks man. I've found 4 different mm sizes for the hub bolt - 22, 24, 32 and 34mm. :hs: Maybe I just buy a bunch and return what doesn't work. :(

The white gauge overlays will be removed this week now that I know how to get the cluster out. Thanks for all your help man.

Oh, the carpet is wet on the rear passenger foot area. Any idea? I've seen the countless threads about water in the front foot wells, but not the rear.

well the water in the rear area could be from the same causes as water up front if the car was parked on an incline. (happened with a pesky leak in my old Jetta)

If I remember tonight, I'll pull the momo wheel off and check the size on the hub nut for you :)

Check the A/C drain gizmo on the firewall, it may be plugged. For some reason on a lot of German cars the condensed water will go mostly to the passenger's side rear footwell when this plugs up.

Frequently you just need to squeeze it so the little fish mouth opening pops open, it's stuck together by some sort of film, dust, whatever.

I think you are due some good karma for de-ricing this car. Good luck with it, seems like a damn good car.

Greatly appreciated!

I plan on doing DIY write-ups for everything that I do. They may prove useful to someone in the future.

You're looking at the original DIY writer for the bi-xenon swap on the e46, not that people around here care. :cheers:

The steering wheel nut is 22mm, I was wrong ;)

Not sure about the water, but I had a ton of water in my back seat foot well as well. This was on my M5. If you find out what it is please let me know. Good find. BTW. Good to see the de ricing. May I suggest DTM mirrors in place of the "m3" mirrors.

The steering wheel nut is 22mm, I was wrong ;)
Well I got a 22mm socket and took the nut off. What is this nut holding on? It wouldn't allow me to do anything.

The metal bracket with the steering wheel mounting holes is off it seems. Shouldn't the top mounting hole be at 12 o'clock when the wheel is pointed straight?

I need to figure out how to turn that metal piece to the proper orientation. I thought taking that 22mm nut off would allow me to remove the hub, but I must be missing something.

In the 5er section people are mentioning a sunroof drain and/or the Vapor Barrier as potential ways for water to get in without leaving a trace as to how.

Well I got a 22mm socket and took the nut off. What is this nut holding on? It wouldn't allow me to do anything.
The metal bracket with the steering wheel mounting holes is off it seems. Shouldn't the top mounting hole be at 12 o'clock when the wheel is pointed straight?
I need to figure out how to turn that metal piece to the proper orientation. I thought taking that 22mm nut off would allow me to remove the hub, but I must be missing something.
I'm an idiot - key in the ignition. D'oh.

Well I got the hub off, but it almost seems like the wheel isn't the right pattern for the hub.

I see the back of the hub slides into one of two metal slots.

Here's what it seems like to me. Red is what the hub pattern seems to be, black is what the steering wheel is (with a screw hole at 12 o'clock).

Does the OEM wheel ahve a screw hole at 12 oclock, or is it more like 11 and 1?

If you look in this picture, you see that he has a screw at 12 o clock. That doesn't seem possible with the bracket that sits behind the wheel in my car.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/X2theZ3/momofull.jpg

If you look in this picture, the wheel sits cocked to the left. That's how mine sits and I hate it.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/499000-499999/499532_184_full.jpg

I want 12 o clock to be straight, not slight right.

I took some pics to help clarify what I'm trying to get across.

Here you can see the two slots where the tab on the back of the hub could slide into. They are circled in red. Notice neither are at 12 oclock, but they are at 11 and 1 (I'm guessing this is correct).
http://www.gonestar.com/images/Blog%20Posts/DelMe/small_MVC-035F.JPG

This is the back of the hub. The tab that slides into one of the slots is circled in red.
http://www.gonestar.com/images/Blog%20Posts/DelMe/small_MVC-036F.JPG

With the tab in l slot, you will notice that the screw holes are off a bit. On my wheel I have a screw hole at 12 o clock. The holes line up correctly, but the whole orientation of the hub is off. I drew a red line as to were the top most hole should be.
http://www.gonestar.com/images/Blog%20Posts/DelMe/small_MVC-037F.JPG

I'm not sure what's off.

Last question first. The steering wheel should just be a proper alignemnt. Toe can be set correct in relation to the wheels, but the steering wheel should be set straight before this is done. No?
Worst case on the water...a nice rusty hole in the corner. My buddy's 88 M3 has this pretty bad. There is a nice spot for all sorts of crap to collect and cause a nice spot of rust. We had to cut this out and epoxy in a new section of metal. Unfortunately we found a LOT more rust when we took the carpets out. Both outer corners of the front foot wells are gone:(

Oh and this one made me laugh. You seemed like a hardcore S14 guy until you said "The ability to hook up my Ipod is a must." lol sorry just found that funny.:stickoutt

You seemed like a hardcore S14 guy until you said "The ability to hook up my Ipod is a must." lol sorry just found that funny.:stickoutt
The nearest track is 3+ hours.

If you look in this picture, you see that he has a screw at 12 o clock. That doesn't seem possible with the bracket that sits behind the wheel in my car.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b226/X2theZ3/momofull.jpg
If you look in this picture, the wheel sits cocked to the left. That's how mine sits and I hate it.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/499000-499999/499532_184_full.jpg
I want 12 o clock to be straight, not slight right.

Hey, that's my old car. Yes, it is possible to have that screw at 12 o'clock. On my hub (momo), there was a mark so you get the correct orientation. It looks like you have the same hub: check and see if your hub has some sort of mark.

Momo wouldn't design a hub that caused the wheel to sit crooked.

Does this tab in red
http://www.gonestar.com/images/Blog%20Posts/DelMe/small_MVC-036F.JPG

go above or below the turn signal reset piece (circled in yellow)?

http://www.gonestar.com/images/Blog%20Posts/DelMe/small_MVC-035F.jpg

Got it. Now I just need another washer to make it a snugger fit.

Thanks guys. I found the mark for the 12 o clock spot and it lined up perfectly.

i have an e30 325is and when i bought it water got into the car in the on the floor in the back seat turned out the trunk was loose, there was a nut and bolt back there that can be adjusted and all that needed was tightening it solved my problem

2 year old thread