:help My car pulls to the left Badly!!!!!
Suspension setup: GC w/ 95 strut mounts and CARB's, 96 M3 sways w/ factory links. I recently had my corner weighted and aligned.
Weights(Eric-Edgemotorworks)
Front Left=855
Front Right=856
Rear Left=840
Rear Right=787

Cross weight=50.8%
Total: 3338 lbs
Weight includes me (~180), 1/2 tank of gas

Alignment(Jack-Motorsport techniques)
FL: camber-1.8/caster5.9/toe0.01/ride height 12.25inch
FR: camber-2.4/caster6.3/toe0.00/ride height 12.75inch
RL: camber-2.6/toe0.08/ride height 11.5 inch
RR: camber-2.5/toe0.09/ride height 12 inch

Why does my my car pull to the left? :mad
Uneven ride heights? Preload in the factory sways? (we did not disconect the sways because I don't have adjustable endlinks)

Thanks in advance, Strapp

Well I may not be the best person to help out but why is your front left camber only at -1.8 and all the others ones are at -2.4 +/- .2

I would think a bigger contact patch would make to pull to that side more. But again not the best person to be giving info on this, it just seems like a logical answer.

A) Why is your camber so far off on the LF?

B) Having your ride heights differ by 1/2 an inch is too much. Ride heights are used for find tuning corner weights. Bigger changes to corner weights should be made by moving objects around in/on the car rather than making huge changes to the ride height. A 1/2 inch different from side to side will change the roll stiffness depending on the direction you turn.

C) You should always disconnect the anti-roll bars when corner weighting.

A) Why is your camber so far off on the LF?
I'm using non adjustable factory strut mounts. I could try using shim/washers
to make up the difference.

B) Having your ride heights differ by 1/2 an inch is too much. Ride heights are used for find tuning corner weights. Bigger changes to corner weights should be made by moving objects around in/on the car rather than making huge changes to the ride height. A 1/2 inch different from side to side will change the roll stiffness depending on the direction you turn.
The car is currently a daily driver/autoX'er. I'm guessing I should wait on corner balancing until I have it more prepped for fulltime racing duties. Sways, camber plates, lightweight battery, etc.

C) You should always disconnect the anti-roll bars when corner weighting.
I was told by many that I should not because I don't have adjustable endlinks.

Thanks for the feedback. -Strapp

I was told by many that I should not because I don't have adjustable endlinks.

Which brings up another question...if you went through the pain and expense of coilovers, camber plates, and corner weighting, WHY don't you have a simple adjustable endlink for your anti-roll bar?

:
Alignment(Jack-Motorsport techniques)
FL: camber-1.8/caster5.9/toe0.01/ride height 12.25inch
FR: camber-2.4/caster6.3/toe0.00/ride height 12.75inch

Thanks in advance, Strapp

Having an additional 0.6 degrees of negative camber on the right side will make the car pull to the left pretty bad. Google "camber thrust" if you want the physics explained... or go buy a vehicle dynamics book.

If you don't want to buy camber plates, you could try to shim the two bolts on bottom of the upright (where the damper mounts) to get some more negative camber on the right side...

And drop the $100 on an adjustable endlink.

Camber thrust, eh? my car pulls to the right if I remember right... but didn't seem to have adverse effect on track performance/tire wear at VIR... My turn in was a bit mushy, tho

FL cam. -3.5
FR cam. -2.7

I inspected for why the 0.8* differential... I think there are really only two options...
1. Bent Strut
2. Bent Hub Assembly (I guess some call it 'the knuckle')

Didn't look like the hub, because no cracks in the powdercoat that I could see. I don't know how to inspect the strut...

I inspected for why the 0.8* differential... I think there are really only two options...
1. Bent Strut
2. Bent Hub Assembly (I guess some call it 'the knuckle')


I would believe the most likely cause is actually a bent strut tower, or bent body. This is very common, especially as cars get older and/or tracked more. Has your car ever had a front-end incident?

-Dave

Check where the strut towers are welded to the frame of the car looking from the top (ie underneath the hood). Pay particular attention to the edges facing the front and the rear of the car. A front-end incident as David mentioned, can cause the strut tower to begin to separate at the weld. A 2-3" long section separated by <1/4" can cause 1 degree of camber difference from one side to the other. Don't ask me how I know.