Yikes,

Just had my car corner-weighted and aligned at the local race shop for Topeka. I'm running GC camber plates with AD's in GC housings. They could only get -2.8 on the left side and -3.2 on the right. Castor set to give maximum camber (5.5). What are you guys getting with similar set-up? I thought -3.5 should have been no problem with the plates.

Yikes,

Just had my car corner-weighted and aligned at the local race shop for Topeka. I'm running GC camber plates with AD's in GC housings. They could only get -2.8 on the left side and -3.2 on the right. Castor set to give maximum camber (5.5). What are you guys getting with similar set-up? I thought -3.5 should have been no problem with the plates.

what sort of control arm bushings do you have and how are they adjusted?

any possibility one of the control arms is bent, or that the frame is bent?


you can set the caster at the middle setting and dial in more negative camber

Running stock '95 offset bushings with brand new control arms, installed per the Bentley.

Caster is in the middle setting. Plates are oriented correctly.

Car has never been in an accident so I assume the frame is ok.

12.75 ride height.

BTW, I can only get -2.1 in the rear with my 11.75" ride height, but that's less of an issue.

somethings gotta be wrong if you have the plates caster setting in the middle and can't get more camber than that.

Running stock '95 offset bushings with brand new control arms, installed per the Bentley.

Caster is in the middle setting. Plates are oriented correctly.

Car has never been in an accident so I assume the frame is ok.

12.75 ride height.

BTW, I can only get -2.1 in the rear with my 11.75" ride height, but that's less of an issue.

somethings gotta be wrong if you have the plates caster setting in the middle and can't get more camber than that.

That's what I assume. Pretty poor numbers for plates.

Race shop is professional so I think they know what they're doing and their equipment is reading correctly.

Wonder if my strut housings are correct?

That's what I assume. Pretty poor numbers for plates.

Race shop is professional so I think they know what they're doing and their equipment is reading correctly.

Wonder if my strut housings are correct?

I've heard of them being off before.

perhaps you can take some measurements and compare right to left?

I'm running those plates as well. You should be able to get 4 or more with those plates. Something's up...

I have a similar setup and at first maxed out at -3 camber on both sides at full caster. I then shimmed the lower bolts and could get over -4, but set both at -3.5.

Not sure what the camber plates on the e36 look like, but if it is like the e30, there are 4 bolts holding the camber adjustment. In order to get any kind of serious camber, you actually have to run only 2 bolts in the center of the 6 holes.

Do you know if you have "kicked" struts? If so, those will remove some camber, but not that much usually.

I have the same setup as you and can get -4.5 as a max.

Have you looked at your camber plates? Sometimes the little "spacers" that the 3 bolts seat against gets bent and limit the travel of the plate. You can pull them out and flatten them to gain the clearance back...seemed like we had to do it every time we changed camber when we were running the GC plates.

Have you looked at your camber plates? Sometimes the little "spacers" that the 3 bolts seat against gets bent and limit the travel of the plate. You can pull them out and flatten them to gain the clearance back...seemed like we had to do it every time we changed camber when we were running the GC plates.

That's just what I was thinking. You should definitely get more camber out of those plates at that ride height.

Look up in the strut tower and see if the black strut tower reinforcements are in there. If they are, look to see if the plate is making contact at max negative adjustment. If it is, you can either pull the plate <or> grind it down some to get the needed clearance.

Have you looked at your camber plates? Sometimes the little "spacers" that the 3 bolts seat against gets bent and limit the travel of the plate. You can pull them out and flatten them to gain the clearance back...seemed like we had to do it every time we changed camber when we were running the GC plates.

Thanks for the info. I'll tear into it tonight. I'm not clear on how it could be a plate travel issue since my shock shaft/nut is tight against the inside edge of the strut tower opening. Even if I had more plate travel, and I think I already do since I don't believe the plate is maxed, I have no where to go.

I don't have the "kicked" strut housings, unless I was sent a set by mistake.

Shimming isn't a legal option for me in BSP.

Somethings clearly not right.

Yeah, if the strut nut is already against the inside edge of the tower, then you are adjusted as far as you can go.

I'd give GC a call today and see what they say.