http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v709/vtbmw525/IMG_0809.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v709/vtbmw525/IMG_0808.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v709/vtbmw525/IMG_0807.jpg

Thanks!

Does'nt look like one. A tii booster is quiet a bit smaller in diameter.

Cris

Does'nt look like one. A tii booster is quiet a bit smaller in diameter.

Cris
Thats what I was afraid of. The seller said it had a tii booster but I assume they took it of for there own use. How much do tii boosters cost?

No idea. You may want to call Double '02 on Monday. They have a great selection of used and new parts. Deans Knowledge of 02's second to none. Their number is 510.782.2002.

Cris

Im bidding on what appears to be a used one on e-bay. $3.00 so far. If this doesnt work I will give Double '02 a call. Thanks Cris!

vtbmw525 is you I take it. OK i won't bid on that one ;)

Here is what a TII Booster looks like:

http://www.my2002tii.com/may2004/pic-%20183.jpg

What you have is a run of the mill booster.

New, expect to pay $700 or more now. If you look around they get $150-200 used. But they do fail. I have seen several go bad in the past 2 years - twice on the same car, so don't expect them to last forever. There are places that rebuild them. I know that 2002 Haus has a reconditioning process that makes them new all over again for a bit more than what a good used one sells for.

New, expect to pay $700 or more now. If you look around they get $150-200 used. But they do fail. I have seen several go bad in the past 2 years - twice on the same car, so don't expect them to last forever. There are places that rebuild them. I know that 2002 Haus has a reconditioning process that makes them new all over again for a bit more than what a good used one sells for.


Whoa, thats expensive for a new one. Im surprised. Generally things have been quite inexpensive for this car. Thanks for the info. I am still going to get one no matter what. It should help with the setup I have and I was also thinking about using the CF airbox that Lee has on the faq.

vtbmw525 is you I take it. OK i won't bid on that one ;)
You can bid if you would like. Im sure many more will.

Will I need a new bracket to hold the tii booster or will the one I have work?

Will I need a new bracket to hold the tii booster or will the one I have work?

Should fit the existing bracket. Why are you going to a tii booster? For clearance? CF airbox?

You can bid if you would like. Im sure many more will.

no reason for us to compete .. it will just cost one of us more .. you bid first dude -- its yours. I was just watching that part anyway.

I'm just keeping an eye out for a good deal on a tii booster -- this winter i'm building up the 75 and it'll need some extra braking power. Lots of other stuff to do first tho

No, just the booster.

Should fit the existing bracket. Why are you going to a tii booster? For clearance? CF airbox?
First and foremost, extra stopping power. I have the cross drilled front rotors and 320i rear drums. In other posts Ive been bitching about the soft feel of the brakes and this could explain it. Im definately looking at getting the CF airbox from Lee. He is supposed to be at Limerock for '02 fest so I will check it out there.

no reason for us to compete .. it will just cost one of us more .. you bid first dude -- its yours. I was just watching that part anyway.

I'm just keeping an eye out for a good deal on a tii booster -- this winter i'm building up the 75 and it'll need some extra braking power. Lots of other stuff to do first tho
Just curious, what would have been your highest bid?

VT- with regards to the soft pedal, which master cylinder are you running? Do you have stainless steel braided lines to replace the rubber ones? Just using a tii master cylinder will firm up the pedal without having to install an adjustable prop valve to the rear drums. Are you going to keep the dual caliper set up on the front? If so you may want to use a e12 or e28 master for the extra volume.

Cris

VT- with regards to the soft pedal, which master cylinder are you running? Do you have stainless steel braided lines to replace the rubber ones? Just using a tii master cylinder will firm up the pedal without having to install an adjustable prop valve to the rear drums. Are you going to keep the dual caliper set up on the front? If so you may want to use a e12 or e28 master for the extra volume.

Cris
It definately has a Tii master cylinder and there are steel braided's front and rear. I dont know how old though.
Would it be better to use a e12 or e28 one rather than the Tii?

-Brent

Just curious, what would have been your highest bid?

shhesh at the moment maybe a hundred bucks at the most :)

I've spent $900 on three 2002's in the last few months.. don't want to spend more on a part than a whole car !!!

It looks like the 75 I got last weekend has a CR 5 speed in it.. so that will pay for a lot of engine and paint. I put the word out that I'm buying these cars and more are showing up... its getting kind of scary how many 02s are lying around in Southern Oregon :)

ack it's up to $5 -- still 7 days. Be interesting to see if it gets to the price range Keith was talking about

take care

-z

edit: Also about the tii booster. I revamped the stock brakes on my tii about 6 months ago, and just recently put new pads and shoes etc on my 70 -- so they are both pretty fresh. The difference between the two is pretty dramatic.. the tii stops on a dime. Sometimes it catches me out if I"m driving the 70 because my brain assumes it can stop the same.. err.. no not the same at all. Seems to me if you've upped the HP on a stock 02 you've really got to get to the brakes at some point.. the difference in the two stock systems is quite stark.

I don't have specific bore sizes for the master cylinders, so I can't honestly compare the tii vs e12 vs e28. The fluid displacement is what you need to know. Perhaps Jeff @ Ireland or Carl @ LaJolla Independant would know. I'm sure with the e12 or e28 master you'll have to run an adjustable prop valve to the rear drums.

Cris

I don't have specific bore sizes for the master cylinders, so I can't honestly compare the tii vs e12 vs e28. The fluid displacement is what you need to know. Perhaps Jeff @ Ireland or Carl @ LaJolla Independant would know. I'm sure with the e12 or e28 master you'll have to run an adjustable prop valve to the rear drums.

Cris
Ahh, another question to add to my list for Jeff when I call tommorrow. Good thing the IE guys are so nice and helpful. :)

I am using a e12 mc but I am also using wilwood single line calipers. If your going to maintain your 2 line calipers or in your case vt, 2 calipers, your going to need a MC with dual front outputs. I can't remember if the e28 MC is for single or dual line.

a tii booster wont give you any more stopping power unless your current one is shot. It will give you clearance for nice velocity stacks!

a tii booster wont give you any more stopping power unless your current one is shot. It will give you clearance for nice velocity stacks!

I was under the same impression. I have run both a tii and non-tii booster on the same car and noticed zero difference.

Yep, I just figured that out. Ive decided to get rid of the second set of calipers, cap the master cylinder where the second lines ran, and keep the booster I have. I know the 1600 calipers are small but this should work better than the duals. I would rather have correct working brakes than cool dual calipers. I would like to use the 4 piston volvo calipers but I dont want to find out they wont fit in my wheels. Unless someone has some volvo calipers lying around they would like to donate. :)

hm. I had thought since it was longer (larger volume?) it was better. Go figure.. I suppose the main difference between my 70 and the 74tii are rotor size etc.

Learn something new every day!

According to this:

http://www.2002faq.com/talkshop/forum/messages/151150.html

the 70-73 volvo 1800 fuel injected version has the identical booster -- if those are somehow easier to find :)

According to this:

http://www.2002faq.com/talkshop/forum/messages/151150.html

the 70-73 volvo 1800 fuel injected version has the identical booster -- if those are somehow easier to find :)
Jeremy also mentioned the use of a Alfa GTV6 booster, but since there is no noticable difference using a tii booster the only reason I would switch is for the CF airbox. It seems the price for new tii boosters is so high because of low core returns. Sounds like it might be worth picking up a used one.

I sold one for $50 about two years ago. Prices have skyrocketed. :(

Matt

I remember there was a discussion with sprung and unsprung weight. If you want to upgrade the calipers you might want to forkout the extra 100bucks for the alum brembos which is like the "2nd stage upgrade" from the steel volvos. IE has them and Im regreting getting the volvos instead of the brembos even though they work well. But im pretty sure if i got the brembos Id be saying I should have got the willwoods.

I remember there was a discussion with sprung and unsprung weight. If you want to upgrade the calipers you might want to forkout the extra 100bucks for the alum brembos which is like the "2nd stage upgrade" from the steel volvos. IE has them and Im regreting getting the volvos instead of the brembos even though they work well. But im pretty sure if i got the brembos Id be saying I should have got the willwoods.

I did the wilwood brakes from IE several years ago and they actually fit under 13" wheels!

Pic of a 14" bottlecap over the wilwood caliper with plenty of room to spare for a 13" wheel...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/iflytii/bottlecap2.jpg

From what Ive heard those calipers fit under SOME 13" wheels. So Im a little nervous to buy them and find out they wont work with my BWA's. I'll probably give in and try it anyway. Im not sure how well the single 1600 calipers I have will work. As long as the new tires and spacers show up tommorrow I will be able to test everything. I have a funny feeling I wont be satisfied with the brakes.

The single 1600 calipers don't work all that well. The pad area is smaller than the normal 2002 pads and the single piston limits performance. Perhaps you can upgrade to a normal 2002 caliper and tii master. You'd have to run some lines but, with the proper tools, that can be done in no time. I wish I had my upgrade kit in but, its just sitting 'til winter.

From what Ive heard those calipers fit under SOME 13" wheels. So Im a little nervous to buy them and find out they wont work with my BWA's. I'll probably give in and try it anyway. Im not sure how well the single 1600 calipers I have will work. As long as the new tires and spacers show up tommorrow I will be able to test everything. I have a funny feeling I wont be satisfied with the brakes.

Too bad I just sold mine or I would let you try them out for fit… The only 13” wheels I tried were some basketweaves from my e21. No problem there but like you said, some wheels might be different. John N. from the faq board purchased them so you might track him down to see if he has tried any other 13” wheels with them. I think I also have some tii calipers floating around if you just need something to get rolling that is better than what you have.

Well I just ran into a bigger problem then the brakes. :mad I got the coilovers on and used 1/4" spacers front and rear because the tires were touching the springs. I lowered the car off the jacks and found out they are still way to close the springs. The rears I can barely slip a creditcard between and the front is a 1/8" away. Problem is if I use another 1/8" spacer Im not sure I will be able to turn the lug nuts At least seven times. Also any more space out would rub the fender flares. Im not sure what to do. The offset is et 5 and the back space is 4.5". To top it all off, because the spacers have pushed the wheels out they are now severely rubbing the wheel well. You can see in this pic where it used to rub and thats where it is actually not even letting the tire turn past. AGGHH! WTF!! Should I just buy 13x7 wheels. Im not sure what the right solution would be.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v709/vtbmw525/IMG_0685.jpg

I somewhat saw the front clearance issue coming with the actual strut tube being bent for more negative camber. Keep in mind, if you have 1/8th of an inch at the strut between the tire and strut, it's a fixed point and should'nt change thru travel. On the rear, you may want to consider a cam on the inboard pivot of the trailing arm to reduce negative camber and increase clearance. I've used the k-mac kit in the past.

Cris

I did get the camber correct kit for the rear but they are not installed. Should that help in the rear? I figure the front tires are going to flex and bulge a bit over bumps and hard cornering so I was hoping for more space. But Im still not sure what I can do about the rub. Its seems to be a pretty solid structural piece. Im not sure I should use a BFH on it. I really need to figure something out. The '02 has events to go to for the next four weekends.

Yes, install the rear camber correction kit. Is the front caster adjustable?

Cris

Yes, install the rear camber correction kit. Is the front caster adjustable?

Cris
Im not sure if the caster is adjustable. Where would it adjust from? Are you thinking that the caster can be adjusted forward to get the tire off the inner fender? That would be perfect if I could do that cause there is plenty of room in front of the tire.

On my G/C caster/camber plates, I can slide the upper plate front to back.

Cris

Nope, no adjustments. Tommorrow is going to be a interesting day :(

Can you use your stock upper mounts. Does IE build caster into their upper plates?

Cris

Well I just ran into a bigger problem then the brakes. :mad I got the coilovers on and used 1/4" spacers front and rear because the tires were touching the springs. I lowered the car off the jacks and found out they are still way to close the springs. The rears I can barely slip a creditcard between and the front is a 1/8" away. Problem is if I use another 1/8" spacer Im not sure I will be able to turn the lug nuts At least seven times. Also any more space out would rub the fender flares. Im not sure what to do. The offset is et 5 and the back space is 4.5". To top it all off, because the spacers have pushed the wheels out they are now severely rubbing the wheel well. You can see in this pic where it used to rub and thats where it is actually not even letting the tire turn past. AGGHH! WTF!! Should I just buy 13x7 wheels. Im not sure what the right solution would be.
This is what I did, its pretty extreme and im not sure you or anybody will like the idea, but im pretty sure the picture will explain it.
First of all, your offset problem will probably be best solved by getting new wheels. Spacers maybe used but longer studs will be needed. I got mine with the Volvo kit from IE, but I dont understand how you have fender rubbage with flared fenders.
The wheel well clearance can be solved two ways. I did both. The first way is pretty minor. See that rod in the picture which I think they call the radius rod? Now as the car is lowered more, that rod will push the arm to the rear. That is why the tire is going right into the wheel well. What i did was shorten that rod not by cutting it, but by lengthening the threads back further. But you can go so far because the the rod starts to bend. After i did this I told IE about it, they said they were pretty familiar with this problem, not sure what they do about it.This helped a little bit, it will probably help you out more than it helped me. Note that I have 215/50/15 up front. I know they are huge, but it looks badass
The second way solved all my rubbage woes and will most likely make all of you cringe. I took a hack saw to my wheels wells, but its not what you think. There is a flap where both the wheel well and the rest of the body meet. I cut one line before there, then hammered where the tire was rubbing till the amount of space was enough and flattned everything out. I want to warn you, this will make a bit of a lump where your left foot is when you are in your car. Carpet modification has to be done. I then smoothed everything out with silicone and went crazy with undercoat.
With my rear wells I just got a huge spacer with longer studs. The wheel wells were cut just a tad and the fenders give me plenty of room.
Heres the pic, hope this helps. Almost thirty years ago I doubt designers would have ever thought there was ever going to be suspension upgrades like this nor even thought of lowering this car this much, and it shows
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a328/Villanuevas_BMW/vtbimmer.jpg

vt -- sure hope you got that sorted out. OUCH!!

sheesh, now it turns out I do need a tii brake booster. I just scored a 73 tii engine thats going into my 75. Assuming (hah!) the KF is still good i'll probably run it as is, or if its shot i'll convert to carbs. Anyway, now I'm on the hunt for one so everything will fit right.

Sooo.. if someone had one lying around i'm going to need one eventually

-z

The BFH did it without having to cut anything. Thank god!

I have a tii booster that just came off my car, any takers?