To view this article on our webpage, click here. (http://autogeek.net/exterior.html)

Proper Washing & Drying

Most of the swirl marks that occur on your vehicle are likely caused by regular washing and drying. Though weekly washes and towel-drying are the best care you can give your vehicle, improper techniques will cause unsightly swirls and scratches in the paint that will require compounding or polishing at the very least. You can prevent these problems and save yourself a lot of extra work by following a few simple tips when washing and drying your vehicle.

Why wash weekly?

Weekly washing is optimal because some contaminants can do serious damage to the paint if they are not removed quickly. One such contaminant is bug splatter. Their bodies contain organic acids that break down the carcass, but they also eat into the clear coat if not removed promptly. Weak spots in the clear coat make your vehicle susceptible to corrosion.

Another problem contaminant is brake dust. It contains metal shavings from the rotors and an adhesive used in the production of brake pads. This makes brake dust highly corrosive and very sticky. Washing your vehicle weekly will remove these contaminants before they have the opportunity to do permanent damage.

Wash Tools

It’s very important to choose tools that are gentle on the paint, yet effective at removing contamination. As a rule of thumb, sponges and mitts that are plush or have a deep nap are better than flat weave towels or dense sponges. For example, a Natural Sea Sponge (http://www.autogeek.net/sheepwas.html) has numerous deep compartments where dirt and debris can accumulate. The natural fibers themselves will not scratch the paint and they will essentially pull contamination into the sponge’s openings, away from the paint. Always use the softer side of the sponge for washing. Rinse new sea sponges thoroughly before use to remove any shell fragments or sand.

Another option is a Sheepskin Wash Mitt (http://www.autogeek.net/natseaspon.html). Sheepskin is extremely soft and plush. The fibers are gentle on the paint while the nap is deep enough to accommodate loose dirt and sand so they do not rub against the vehicle. Because sheepskin is natural, it does not last as long as a synthetic microfiber mitt. However, for luxurious softness, you can’t beat the texture of sheepskin.

Microfiber mitts (http://www.autogeek.net/pinmicmit.html) are another paint-safe option. Microfiber’s combination of polyester and polyamide make it capable of scrubbing the paint without scratching or swirling. It traps dirt and grit within the fibers rather than leaving them on the surface of your vehicle. Be sure to rinse the mitt frequently to release these particles.

Cotton chenille pads (http://www.autogeek.net/chenwaspad.html) and mitts (http://www.autogeek.net/chenwasmit.html) are also good choices because they clean easily and they last longer than sheepskin or natural sea sponges.

Washing
1. Wash the wheels and tires first. If you splash wheel cleaners or dirt onto your vehicle, you can simply wash it off as you wash. Use a cleaner that is safe for all wheels, like Wolfgang Tire & Wheel Cleaner (http://www.autogeek.net/wg4600.html). It is water-based and has no corrosive chemicals, which is safer for coated wheels and rubber. Agitate with an OXO (http://www.autogeek.net/oxotools.html) or New England Wheel Brush (http://www.autogeek.net/newenbr.html) to clean wheels without scratching. Wash each wheel and tire one at a time and rinse thoroughly before moving on to the next one.

2. Now you’re ready to wash. It’s important to use a car wash that is rich in lubricants. The purpose of the car wash is to remove contaminants and lubricate them so they do not scratch the paint as they slide off the vehicle. Dish detergents are not ideal because they remove protective coatings. P21S Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo (http://www.autogeek.net/p2bodconsham.html), DP Auto Bath Shampoo (http://www.autogeek.net/dp300.html) and Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo (http://www.autogeek.net/pinbodsham.html) are all great choices. They will not remove wax and they provide ample lubrication of gritty particles.

3. Here’s a trick to prevent swirl marks: use two buckets. Fill one bucket with soapy water and fill the other with clean water. Each time you need to reload your sponge with soapy water, dip it in the clean water first to rinse out some of the contamination you’ve just removed from your vehicle. Then dip it in the soapy water and continue washing.

Another option is the Grit Guard (http://www.autogeek.net/gg1010.html). This plastic grid sits in the bottom of a 5-gallon wash bucket and stabilizes the water. Contamination settles to the bottom of the bucket and the clean wash water remains at the top.

4. Always rinse your vehicle thoroughly before you begin washing in order to remove loose debris. Then begin washing at the top of the vehicle. Wash down the vehicle as opposed to front to back. Remember that the lower panels are dirtiest. You want to clean the windows and the upper panels before cleaning the lower half of the vehicle so that you don’t transfer grit to the top half of the vehicle. Rinse and reload your sponge often to prevent cross-contamination. Rinse your vehicle frequently as you work, especially in hot weather.

For stubborn spots, like bugs or tar, use the Pinnacle Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Sponge (http://www.autogeek.net/pinsafscrub.html) to gently remove sticky contaminants without scratching. To soften the sponge, soak it in warm water for 3 minutes. Always use it with soapy water to lubricate the sponge. If you choose to use a spot cleaner, spray it on before washing and reapply wax to the treated area after you’ve dried the vehicle.

5. When rinsing, you don’t have to blast your car clean with the water hose. Free-flowing water (no nozzle) will allow the water to sheet off of your vehicle for a more thorough rinsing.

Drying

Never skip drying! Drying your vehicle after washing is necessary to prevent water spots. Water spots are caused by mineral deposits that etch the outline of a drop of water into your vehicle’s paint. All water has minerals, whether it’s from the hose or the sky. As the water evaporates, the minerals remain on the surface and they will eventually, inevitably create water spots.

You can dry your vehicle in a variety of ways, but you want to make sure you do it quickly. The fastest way to remove excess water is with a California Water Blade (http://www.autogeek.net/calwatblad.html) or California Dry Blade (http://www.autogeek.net/orcadrybl.html). These are paint-safe squeegees that pull 80% of the water off the surface of your vehicle. They are made of soft, medical-grade silicone so they will not scratch your paint or glass. Use the blade on the windows first, since water spots are most noticeable there.

Even if you use a Water Blade, you still need to use a towel to remove the rest of the water. The Cobra Waffle-Weave Towel (http://www.autogeek.net/xlarcobwafwe.html) is a large microfiber towel that is manufactured with a waffle-weave texture. This weave increases the surface area so the towel can absorb more water. It can absorb 7 times its own weight in moisture, and it’s completely nonabrasive. Microfiber towels come in a number of sizes and they can be altered for a specific purpose. For example, the Cobra Waffle-Weave Glass Towel (http://www.autogeek.net/ww1627.html) will clean and dry glass without streaks. Microfiber is more absorbent than terry cloth or chamois, and it lasts longer.

Terry cloth towels are not recommended because the fibers can become matted and hard after repeated uses. They increase the chance of swirls. Compared to microfiber, they are not as absorbent and they don’t last as long. Never use bath towels that have been discarded from the house. They are probably not soft or paint safe.

You may also use a genuine or synthetic chamois. The Prince of Wales Chamois (http://www.autogeek.net/prinofwalcha.html) is 100% leather and it’s extremely soft. Its luxurious texture makes it a pleasure to use, but it will not last as long as a synthetic chamois. Do not continue using it after it becomes hard. The Pittards Dry-Soft Chamois (http://www.autogeek.net/pitdryscham.html) is another option. It is real leather, but it dries soft. Chamois are gentle on paint and they are more absorbent than terry cloth.

Drying Tips

1. Dry windows and mirrors first.

2. Use the large Cobra Supreme Waffle Weave Towel to remove the majority of water from your vehicle. This towel measures 20”x 40” and it absorbs seven times its own weight in moisture. Go back over the vehicle with a smaller towel, like the Cobra Waffle Weave Drying Towel (16”x 24”) to catch any water the large towel may have missed. This quick two-step process will leave your vehicle bone-dry and ready for wax.

3. Once the outside is dry, wipe down all your door jambs and sills. Open the trunk and hood to wipe the jambs.

4. Dry your wheels using a towel or chamois that is designated just for this purpose. Don’t use this towel on your paint to avoid cross-contamination. You may also use this towel to wipe off surfaces under the hood. Wash this towel before you use it again.

The Finishing Touch

Use a quick detail spray like Mothers Showtime Detailer (http://www.autogeek.net/motcalgolind.html) or Wolfgang Instant Detail Spritz (http://www.autogeek.net/wg3200.html) to rejuvenate the shine of your existing wax. Skip this step if you are going to apply another coat of wax.

If anyone has any tips or comments they would like to add, please feel free to chime in. :)

I would just add (and for most all of you it's a no-brainer) that you should wash the car in a shady spot away from direct sunlight. I usually wash the cars in early morning or late afternoon when it is cooler and not so sunny.

Keeps those water spots at bay.

all of you drying techniques are COMPLETELY WRONG. the less you touch your paint the better. and by doing what you say what about spots that you cant see or reach the water just sits there and rusts away

all of you drying techniques are COMPLETELY WRONG. the less you touch your paint the better. and by doing what you say what about spots that you cant see or reach the water just sits there and rusts away
Umm, instead of ridiculing, why don't you suggest the "proper" way to dry?

awesome tips! ty kindly!! :buttrock

Those are some pretty great tips. There is an art to properly washing cars.

Awesome tips, thanks. Ever since I started sheeting water I get much better results. On a side note/contribution, I would sugest Maguire Wet Tire Shine (it comes in a black spray can)
One can only lasts me a little under 2 months with weekly application but it's not too pricy. It makes you're wheels shine up really nice, I rarly see a tire with a nicer shine that isn't new. Best applicated when tire is been cleaned and is dry (no water drops), but still slightly damp.


My $0.02

here's an awesome tip my friend's dad got about 10 years ago when he went to hot august nights, and i've been using it since then after he told me:

after rinsing down your car, take the nozzel off the hose. now take the hose with running water and rinse your car again with it in a slow sweeping motion. if your car has a good coat of sealant/wax on it, you'll notice that a lot of the water will start to sheet off. this makes final drying the car now easier and faster (i prefer to big blue waffle towel).

Another option is the Grit Guard (http://www.autogeek.net/gg1010.html). This plastic grid sits in the bottom of a 5-gallon wash bucket and stabilizes the water. Contamination settles to the bottom of the bucket and the clean wash water remains at the top. mmmmm nice idea. i want to try now.

Nice write up. And a suggestion for cleaning the windows. I find that it's best to dry the windows with two towels, one to get most of the moisture off, then one to wipe what's left. If you use one towel, it gets too saturated and leaves streaks, which can get annoying when sunlight hits your window and you see all the streaks. And the other guy needs anger management classes.

SimonME30-There is NOTHING wrong with any of the drying techinues given. I simply use a chamois (get a ggod one-no cheap imitations) and lay it out and slowly pull it toard me, ring it out and repeat and blotch the small spots. When drying the windows I use alot of paper towels getting all the water in the small cracks and crevices then mist over with windex and dry.

I've also found using a leaf blower makes drying very quick - and is touchless. It also gets water out from "inside" the rear view mirrors and door handles...
The blower is not 100% drying, so a quick follow-up with a synthetic chammy is my preferred technique.

Does anyone have advice regarding washing/maintain the soft top?

Thanks

the leaf blower, awesome, I never would have thought of that, ill prob try it mañana

I thought using a California water blade was not a good idea.....?

Just make sure the leaf blower is electric, you dont want the gas and fumes to spray all over the car. I use a Water Blade on all of my cars and have no problem. They are good because of the T-Blade located at the end of it. Also the best way to care for the water blade is to store it back in it's container so it won't dry out and become brittle and to wash it as well before each use (to make sure no sand or the like is on it).

An old trick that I learned as a cadet at the Academy is to use newspapers to clean your windows and mirrors to prevent streaking...

An old trick that I learned as a cadet at the Academy is to use newspapers to clean your windows and mirrors to prevent streaking...
I heard this also. I tried it when i first heard about it, worked great. I don't get it, but it works.

i got you all beat on the drying.

ever tried the mr. clean washing kit?

looks cheap. don't laugh till you try it.

the key is the rinse cycle. the unit filters the water, virtually eliminating mineral deposits.

you can rinse after a wash and let the car dry in the shade, and you will not see water spots. it is truely effective.

a pal and i built out own filter from wal mart filters made for home drinking use. it works like magic. if anyone is interested i'll post a dyi.

I head that is bad for the paint?

its not bad for the paint, i use the special car wash cleaners the mit, it works really good, and the special cloth they use as well try it, its an A+++++ product, no towel marks when drying.

I head that is bad for the paint?
it is...the reason it looks so shiney is because it strips the clearcoat

it is...the reason it looks so shiney is because it strips the clearcoat

the DI water strips the clear coat? or are you talking about something else?

I would have to disagree with the comments about using a lambswool mit, that WILL scratch the paint !

CR Spotless is a great way to go if you want to skip the drying.

a leaf blower seems like it would send rocks/dirt/dust from the air into your paint at high speeds.

1)Mr. Clean Auto Dry is bad, it creates and exothermic reaction to clean your paint, which is hell for the clearcoat, moreover the results aren't even comparable to a proper wash and wax with a product like zaino, you spent the money on a BWM don't skip on cleaning it right because your lazy.

2)I caution against the California washer blade, while it does an excellent job of getting most of the water off, however, unless you claybar your car every time you wash, you run a getter risk of scratching unless you got 100% of dirt particles off the paint during the wash step (impossible).

3)The sheeting water off the car before drying by holding the hose parallel to the paint surface is an excellent technique.
3A)I love the leaf blower dry technique as well, though it looks weird to your neighbors, you get into plastic honeycombs and behind the gas cap right away. And no, it doesn't blow lots of rocks into your car, long as you don't blow at the ground...., and even if it did it wouldn't be near the amount you hit during everyday driving.

4)Use Zaino.

I still use the Absorber pad to dry my car. I think its the best. I didnt like the California Water Blade

instead of the absorber, try the meguires water magnet. I used the absorber for a while then tried the water magnet and it works twice as good.

There are many different ways to wash cars... just make sure u do it right!

1)Mr. Clean Auto Dry is bad, it creates and exothermic reaction to clean your paint, which is hell for the clearcoat, moreover the results aren't even comparable to a proper wash and wax with a product like zaino, you spent the money on a BWM don't skip on cleaning it right because your lazy.

2)I caution against the California washer blade, while it does an excellent job of getting most of the water off, however, unless you claybar your car every time you wash, you run a getter risk of scratching unless you got 100% of dirt particles off the paint during the wash step (impossible).

3)The sheeting water off the car before drying by holding the hose parallel to the paint surface is an excellent technique.
3A)I love the leaf blower dry technique as well, though it looks weird to your neighbors, you get into plastic honeycombs and behind the gas cap right away. And no, it doesn't blow lots of rocks into your car, long as you don't blow at the ground...., and even if it did it wouldn't be near the amount you hit during everyday driving.

4)Use Zaino.

1.
I'm interested in this Mr. Clean to use as a filter (for which apparently it works great). The water coming from my hose is rather terrible and I would need to install a filter to make it workable. This seems like a rather inexpensive solution.

Why not use Zaino and use only the Mr. Clean rinse cycle as a water filter?
Does it just filter the water in the rinse cycle without adding anything?



2.
Another question, what about the environmental/legal aspects of allowing Zaino + dirt (and brake dust, etc...) that comes off your car to go into storm drains that go directly into streams and lakes, etc...?

The Foam Gun Option

If the mitt and bucket method doesn’t do it for you, there’s always the foam gun option. The Foamaster Foam Wash Gun (http://www.autogeek.net/foam-gun.html) drenches your vehicle in suds to provide maximum lubrication between your wash mitt and your vehicle.

http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/autogeek/h2foam.jpg

The Foamaster works by mixing a controlled amount of water and shampoo together inside a specially shaped nozzle. The solution is forced through the nozzle by the shear water pressure of your hose. It immediately mixes with air as it exits the nozzle and –behold! – lots and lots of foam.

You can maximize the amount of foam produced by your foam gun by filling it with DP Xtreme Foam Formula High Yield Foaming Auto Shampoo (http://www.autogeek.net/foam-gun-soap.html) . This is the only car shampoo formulated specifically for foam guns. It’s super sudsy if you use it the old-fashioned way, too.

The Foamaster enables you to cover your vehicle in an even layer of suds. This won’t guarantee a swirl-free wash but, with a clean wash mitt or sponge, it will drastically improve your odds. You will still need to rinse your mitt frequently as you wash to get out all the grit.

Some people use the Foamaster to presoak the vehicle, which helps to loosen dirt. Others like to spray with one hand and wash with the other. Either way, you should wash from the top down and rinse the mitt often in clean water.

Clean Water Makes for a Clean Car
http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/autogeek/filter3.jpg
If you’re taking all the precautions every time you wash your vehicle and you’re still getting spots and swirls, the problem may be the water.

No water is pure. All water has minerals and most has some form of sediment. If your car shampoo (or hair shampoo) doesn’t lather well and your faucets and fixtures tend to turn green, you’ve got hard water. If water will not sheet off your vehicle and you’re constantly battling water spots, you’ve got hard water. Hard water is mainly caused by calcium and magnesium, which can be removed with a water softener.

Sediment is another common enemy of any paint finish. Sediment is actually dirt and rust in the water line. Water treatment plants filter out sediment but more sediment can enter the pipes between the plant and your home. This is why household faucets have screens in them. If you have well water, beware. You most likely have sediment and hard water.

A Clear Inline Hose Filter (http://www.autogeek.net/clinhofianda.html)will clean and soften the water before it reaches your vehicle. Connect it to any standard garden hose hooked up to an exterior spigot. Insert a 5 micron sediment filter or a water softener cartridge to address your specific water problem. The filter is easy to install and its cost is nominal compared to amount of time and money you’ll save on paint care.

If you’ve got both water problems, get two hose filters so you can filter out sediment and soften the water before it exits the hose. The Deluxe Filter System (http://www.autogeek.net/defisy.html) includes everything you need to set up this simple, two-step filtration system. With a little preventative maintenance, your vehicle will rinse clean and have less water-related micro-marring.

Check out all the great tools and products we have to clean your vehicle right on our Washing (http://www.autogeek.net/washing.html) page!

i got you all beat on the drying.

ever tried the mr. clean washing kit?

looks cheap. don't laugh till you try it.

the key is the rinse cycle. the unit filters the water, virtually eliminating mineral deposits.

you can rinse after a wash and let the car dry in the shade, and you will not see water spots. it is truely effective.

a pal and i built out own filter from wal mart filters made for home drinking use. it works like magic. if anyone is interested i'll post a dyi.

mr clean FTW. it does work really good. makes it shinier because it filters the water i guess. plus you dont ahve to dip a sponge into a dirty bucket or anything. just turn the soap function on or off.

man u guys are smart

Any recommendation for washing a car with soft top, besides to have it up?

Here is a tip
After you wash and dry your car don't forget to dry the water in the fuel filler door. BMW did not put a drain hole there like some other manufacturer (Toyota) and water gets trapped and stays there and you get rust after a few years.
I don't know about the newer models if they have a drainage hole.

thanks for the gr8 tips. what's the best material/method to use to apply the quick detail spray?

I have tried a lot of towels, chamois, etc...the best is "Kanebo" is a japanese synthetic towel, looks like a chamois although somewhat thicker, they sell it in europe in the auto shops. It always remains moist because of its container. When dirty, wash it in the clothes washer and last for several years. Do not know who distributes in the states. (search as "plas chamois") look for it.Got mine in PR. Cost around $11 to 12.00.

An old trick that I learned as a cadet at the Academy is to use newspapers to clean your windows and mirrors to prevent streaking...

i totally agree, however be careful in doing so. I used newspaper like i always do for the rear window in my car, and the black print on the paper rubbed off on my white interior.... i was pissed

Exellent tips everyone, thanks. I will definitely use and remember few of these the next time I wash (I wash my car every Friday). I've also known about the "newspaper" for cleaning windows, years ago - good one.

What if you don't have the time ... any suggestions
on automatic car washes? Are they just out of the
question?
Michl

What if you don't have the time ... any suggestions
on automatic car washes? Are they just out of the
question?
Michl

having worked at a car wash, Never take your car there unless you jsut dont care about it. This wasnt an automatic car wash but even those frighten me. The dirt build up from the nasty cars before can still be there and scratch your paint. The detail shop i worked at which wasnt a real detail shop we provided car dealer services we would wash cars on thier lots a quick and simple sort of thing. 6 guys, two pressure washers, one with soap, one with just water, one guy with a few mitts, and two dryers. One with a water blade and one with towels. But even when we would do a sale detail we used lame water and time was a big thing.

Basically unless your at a detail shop that respectable stay away. They generally dont care about your car they just take it in and get it out.

What takes longer trying to cover up a scratchor washing the car on your own?

What about a car wash where you go to a stall and you wash it yourself but theres a gun and you can select things like presoak, soap, rinse and clearcoat and theres also the foaming brush? I forgot what they're called but would it do harm to wash there?

I own a motorcycle shop in Houston, and have been using this for about a year on my cars. It is better than a leaf blower because it has an airfilter and also blows out high-velocity, warm air. We use it when detailing our bikes. It gets the water out of every nook and cranny. The best use is under the hood. You can wash your engine compartment and then blow out all of the water from the electricals. Leaves everything dry and no spots.

It's called a Metro Air Force Master Blaster. Costs about $250, but really works. Buy some ear plugs with it. Makes a lot of noise.

Another tip I have from doing bike detailing is a product from Motul called Shine and Go. I use this on all black plastic. Black plastic on German cars becomes dull and dry after years of exposure and frequent washings. You can take the Shine and Go and spray it on dull, fade black plastics, leave it on for 15 minutes then buff it off. The plastic will look like the day it drove out of the showroom. the best part is that there is no greasy film to attract dust like Armor All. It is available at most motorcycle shops in a spray can.

Hope this helps everyone!
[/URL][URL="http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/detail.cfm?model_ID=0&Category_ID=100&manufacturer_ID=265&product_ID=7794&related=short"] (http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/detail.cfm?model_ID=0&Category_ID=100&manufacturer_ID=265&product_ID=7794&related=short)

I own a motorcycle shop in Houston, and have been using this for about a year on my cars. It is better than a leaf blower because it has an airfilter and also blows out high-velocity, warm air. We use it when detailing our bikes. It gets the water out of every nook and cranny. The best use is under the hood. You can wash your engine compartment and then blow out all of the water from the electricals. Leaves everything dry and no spots.

It's called a Metro Air Force Master Blaster. Costs about $250, but really works. Buy some ear plugs with it. Makes a lot of noise.

Another tip I have from doing bike detailing is a product from Motul called Shine and Go. I use this on all black plastic. Black plastic on German cars becomes dull and dry after years of exposure and frequent washings. You can take the Shine and Go and spray it on dull, fade black plastics, leave it on for 15 minutes then buff it off. The plastic will look like the day it drove out of the showroom. the best part is that there is no greasy film to attract dust like Armor All. It is available at most motorcycle shops in a spray can.

Hope this helps everyone!


Thank you for your imput to this thread. :)

My pleasure.


I should get a free Air Force product and a case of Shine N go from Motul!

An old trick that I learned as a cadet at the Academy is to use newspapers to clean your windows and mirrors to prevent streaking...

I believe the black ink from the newspaper polishes the glass. That's what I read?

I considered a leaf blower myself, but there is that chance having debris hitting the surfaces of the car. I was told to cover the nozzle with pantyhose to prevent anything from coming out other than air.

cover the nozzle with pantyhose


haha but very smart

lol You can also buy a separate hose that is dedicated to drying only. You can paint it or mark it in some other way to keep it separate from the suction hose. That is what I do anyway. :) But I confess that I haven't tried the panty hose trick. Let us know how it works for you if you do try it. :)

I have been using compessed air in my garage for years to blow dry my cars. it gets all the water out of the tail lights, gas cap, door jams, mirrors, and most inportantly the wheels, keeps them from driping water back out as you leave and keeps the brake dust from sticking.

been going it for years on my motorcycles also.

it's clean, fast, and works great.


TZR

For wheel shine, Jet Wet has worked well for me! Easy to spray on and very long lasting shine..

As for initial drying, I always take a quick spin down the road then park it and get the remaining water off with microfiber cloths, I know this may contribute to water spots possibly but it seems to get the job done for me.

As far as wax products, what would be recommended, especially for a black bmw.

Hey guys, I've recently become real interested in detailing my car. However, there are many hurdles along the way. I live in an apt so that means I only have partly covered parking (there is a little bitty sunshade that I can park under), and my car is exposed to direct sunlight.
Is it better for me to just take my car to a hand carwash and get it over with for $15 (They clean the car's exterior and the wheels). My car's pretty clean as it is since I just bought it a while ago.

On the other hand, I can also buy these products and try to maintain it myself. However, I notice that if I were to buy these products all at once the price hits about $100, thats money that I really don't have right now. I'd rather do with $15 if you know what I mean.

Here are the products:
Poorboys Super Slick & Suds Car Wash 32 Ounce $12.95
Sheepskin Wash Mitt $14.95
Super Soft White Microfiber Towel 20x40 $9.95
Poorboys Spray & Rinse Wheel Cleaner 32 Ounce $14.95
Poorboys Natty's Carnauba Paste Wax $15.95
Foam Wax Applicator 4 Pack $6

Now, I read that carnauba paste wax is not as effective as polymer wax, is this true? This stuff turns out to be pretty expensive. Derek80, where did you get the poorboy's polish w/sealant for so cheap? Help please?

So if I decide to put some money into this, Is this the right procedure?

Use Poorboy's superslick & Suds OR Poorboy's polish w/sealant and wash the car with the sheepskin mitt and the two bucket method.

Dry the car out with the microfiber towel.

Apply the wax (polymer?) using the foam pad wax applicator and wait for 10 minutes. Then use the microfiber towel to remove the wax and I'm done?

For the wheels: Do I spray on the poorboy wheel spray and rinse and then just use any normal cloth to wipe it off? I have regular 16" stock wheels and the rest of my car is stock too. Color: Titanium Silver.

-Thank you for your input

We have been using Boars Hair brushes for years on airplanes and boats. The bush is all natural boars hair, and releases particle very easy with the two bucket method of washing. I have been using it on my cars and bikes for the past couple of years, while like anything it will never totaly prevent micro marring. It does do just as good of a job as anything else noted in this post. It does how ever get into all the little nooks around headlights and grills. One great thing is that you never have to put your hands into the water, great for cold weather washings.

I just use a microfiber wash mit, and microfiber towel to dry... Some hate on Griot's products, but their soaps, waxes, speedshine are great products. You can find most microfiber stuff anywhere, and some identical stuff can be found cheaper too (costco).

Hey guys, I've recently become real interested in detailing my car. However, there are many hurdles along the way. I live in an apt so that means I only have partly covered parking (there is a little bitty sunshade that I can park under), and my car is exposed to direct sunlight.
Is it better for me to just take my car to a hand carwash and get it over with for $15 (They clean the car's exterior and the wheels). My car's pretty clean as it is since I just bought it a while ago.

On the other hand, I can also buy these products and try to maintain it myself. However, I notice that if I were to buy these products all at once the price hits about $100, thats money that I really don't have right now. I'd rather do with $15 if you know what I mean.

Here are the products:
Poorboys Super Slick & Suds Car Wash 32 Ounce $12.95
Sheepskin Wash Mitt $14.95
Super Soft White Microfiber Towel 20x40 $9.95
Poorboys Spray & Rinse Wheel Cleaner 32 Ounce $14.95
Poorboys Natty's Carnauba Paste Wax $15.95
Foam Wax Applicator 4 Pack $6

Now, I read that carnauba paste wax is not as effective as polymer wax, is this true? This stuff turns out to be pretty expensive. Derek80, where did you get the poorboy's polish w/sealant for so cheap? Help please?

So if I decide to put some money into this, Is this the right procedure?

Use Poorboy's superslick & Suds OR Poorboy's polish w/sealant and wash the car with the sheepskin mitt and the two bucket method.

Dry the car out with the microfiber towel.

Apply the wax (polymer?) using the foam pad wax applicator and wait for 10 minutes. Then use the microfiber towel to remove the wax and I'm done?

For the wheels: Do I spray on the poorboy wheel spray and rinse and then just use any normal cloth to wipe it off? I have regular 16" stock wheels and the rest of my car is stock too. Color: Titanium Silver.

-Thank you for your input


If you want to keep your car as swirl free as possible, I stongly suggest that you maintain it yourself. Automatic car washes will swirl your paint and it uses harsh chemicals. If you need to detail on the cheap, you can go to Walmart's auto section and buy Meguiar's NXT generation car wash, a sheepskin wash mitt (feel them all and choose the softest one), Mother's wheel cleaner and Meguiar's NXT generation tech wax or their Cleaner wax. I'd also advise you to pick up a can of Invisible glass and a glass cleaning towel for your windows too. You'll never know how you lived without it before. Those products are pretty good and they will keep your car clean for less money. The one thing I would suggest you don't skimp on is the Microfiber towels. You can buy those products at Walmart and save the money there, but you should buy the best quality microfibers you can from PakShak or Poorboy's or Autogeek, but the Costco/BJ's/Sam's club ones I find are just good for wheels and engine detailing. The fabric is not soft enough for paint. If you want a good sealant that you can buy Over the Counter, Duragloss is very good and can be bought at many auto parts stores. I would just call around to the ones that are local to you and see if they carry the line.

Happy detailing. :)

My tips,

Wash top to bottom....you cant wash dirt up! I use a soft wash mit on the paint and jams and one for the glass and one for the bottom of the car and another for the wheels.

I love the cheap chamos from Kmart or walmart,Get one with out fish oil and throw it in the wash before use. Infact dont use any product with out washing it once. It softens it and brakes down the fibers enough to not scratch it.

Once i have washed and rinsed and done it again(I have ocd when it comes to a clean car.) I take my clean chamos and dry the car all the doors open. I shut them a few times and thump the blades a few times to get the water off of them. Pull it in the garage and take the air pen and the chamos to the car blowing out any seals mirrors and the hard to reach places in the jams. the wheels are wiped down with the a towl and the tire dressing goes on. After that all the wheels are rewiped to prevent dust build up from dressing smeer.

90% of the time i use mist and wipe and a mico fiber towl to clean any water spots i missed.

Oh thought you guys would like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAa-BC2Qhp4


Pic of my paint
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v147/vwfastg60/Picture114.jpg

For those who want a clean car, with minimal scratches, but are lazy? lol.

Here is what has worked for me. Keep in mind my cars are silver, and unlike black, don't show up imperfections as much.

#1. Get a cheap bucket and toss in some some Zip Wax or Turtle Wax or whatever cheap car wash you find at walmart. Fill bucket with water until nearly full and REALLY sudsy.

#2. Spray the car really good with the hose.

#3. Using one of those sponges covered with cloth, soak it well in the bucket.

#4. Spray some Bleche White on the tires, and non acidic wheel cleaner on your rims. Brush the tires with a brush, then rinse off the tires and wheels with a strong stream of water.

#5. Wash the car using horizontal motions only on the hood, trunk, and roof, and vertical motions only on the doors, fenders, and quarter panels.

#6. Rinse off thoroughly, using low pressure from the hose, but high volume. I tend to place the top of the (rubber) nozzle right near the surface, and from top down, rinse away.

#7. Go back to each rim, and using the leftover carwash/water in the bucket, use the sponge to hand wash the rims, to get the grime off that the wheel cleaner did not.

#8. Get out your California Water blade or generic equivalent, and squeegee the water away from all surfaces. Again..Horizontal on the hood, roof, and trunk, and vertical on doors, fenders, and quarter panels.

#9. Finish drying everything with The Absorber. For the rims, finish drying/remove waterspots with an old rag.

I've been doing this for years, and have minimal scratching, if any. Definitely no swirl scratches, which visually show up more. Actually, I think there probably are the typical fine scratches (that disappear as soon as polish is applied during the semi annual two step polish/wax ritual), but to the naked eye, they are almost impossible to see, because they arent circular..due to the method of washing/and drying.


Again..my car is a daily driver, and the M3 I just acquired is going to be my weekend fair weather car. I don't do concours' or shows, so my method works fine for me as a street car that is very clean.

YMMV

Forgive me for I have sinned... I took my new coupe through the car wash. It looks great, so it must be an illusion...

I like a clean car as much as the next person, but I also don't like fussing over it too much. I don't plan on entering it in a concours. I guess I could purchase another coupe and turn it into a trailor queen... :boobies

Me and my friend took his car to one of those DIY quarter car washes... it was crap. We did that on Sunday and the car looked so pathetic that I hand washed it today. Hand washing/drying is the best thing to do for your car. All the tips are great, I can't wait to use some of them!

what could i use to get rid of the ingrained dirt on my wheels?, I've washed it using different types of wheel cleaners, and i also tried "awesome" and specks of dirt are just stubborn

rsixrider

Clay bar will do the job.

what could i use to get rid of the ingrained dirt on my wheels?, I've washed it using different types of wheel cleaners, and i also tried "awesome" and specks of dirt are just stubborn

What kind of wheels do you have?? I have used Bon Ami or Barkeepers friend on really stuck on dirt on wheels and it cleaned them up nice and shiny without scratching. I know some wheels are fussier than others so be careful to try a test spot first if you use this method to be sure there is no scratching. Happy detailing. :)

oem- contours

Want to eliminate swirls and scratches? This tip came to me 10 years ago straight from a gentleman in Los Angeles who charges $150 per car wash! He will only wash exotics. Try this. Every time you touch the car to wash, to chamois, to apply wax, to remove wax, make absolutely certain that every stroke runs from the front to the back of the car or back to front. The micro scratches that occur on any paint with any applicator will cause a simple optical illusion. They will NOT be visible. As for existing swirls, they will begin, over time, to disappear. I bought a used 328 convertible with swirls. After 2 years of wash and wax, my closest friends wanted to know when I had gotten the car painted! Try it in small area, and see the difference for yourself.

Instead of two buckets to wash your car with, get one of those ortho dial sprayer, the one for spraying miracle grow liquid fertilizer. you can get one at your local hardware store, then get a quick connect for the end of your hose, put your carwash inside the sprayer, dial it to 1.5 to 3 ounces, connect too the hose hit the trigger, and you have instant soap,wash it with your mit,then disconnect the sprayer from the hose, with the quick connect and rinse,it sounds like alot of steps but it isnt, its better than hauling around 2 buckets.

I would have to disagree with the comments about using a lambswool mit, that WILL scratch the paint !
Is lambswool the same as sheepskin?

After rinsing, I like to put 2 gallons of mineral free water in a garden sprayer and go over the car top to bottom. I usually do this on wax days. You can get one with an all plastic spray nozzle very cheap at wal-mart. Just get a couple containers of distilled water. If you have a water softener and filter, just go to the sink and fill up!

One other thing is dry with a combed cotton white t-shirt to see how well you washed.

One question-do the quick detailers dry clear on dark paint? I have sprayed them on the wet car and dryed with no streaking, but only on not so dark colors like red. This tends to put moisture back into paint, seals, plastic parts and they do not dry out.

Nice tips on washing cars. =)

An old trick that I learned as a cadet at the Academy is to use newspapers to clean your windows and mirrors to prevent streaking...

I also tried this before and it really works. You can have a very clear windows and mirrors.

It's like car wash mensa. Thanks guys. A badoodle of great ideas here. Can't talk. Have to go wash the new 328!

I've also found using a leaf blower makes drying very quick - and is touchless. It also gets water out from "inside" the rear view mirrors and door handles...
The blower is not 100% drying, so a quick follow-up with a synthetic chammy is my preferred technique.

Thanks

this is the best and fastest way to dry a car :buttrock

don't try to dry the car off from the end of the driveway and you wont have problems with rocks hitting it!
use common sense with electric leaf blowers and wet pavement so you dont get zapped

Leaf blower and air compressor are a bit unsafe unless you the air is filtered before hitting the paint plus air compressor delivers a low volume of cool and most air at high pressure. I used the Metro Air Force Blaster (high volume of dry filtered air at low pressure) for the car, the Harley and also to dry the dog. Cheap investment for my toys plus the family pet

I have been using compessed air in my garage for years to blow dry my cars. it gets all the water out of the tail lights, gas cap, door jams, mirrors, and most inportantly the wheels, keeps them from driping water back out as you leave and keeps the brake dust from sticking.

been going it for years on my motorcycles also.

it's clean, fast, and works great.


TZR


that or the leaf blower I actually tried both out yesterday and being that my leaf blower is a little underpowered being electric I like the compressed air a little better being that it's faster, but both work and i've seen them both used at multiple shows.

car looks great! :redspot

After rinsing, I like to put 2 gallons of mineral free water in a garden sprayer and go over the car top to bottom. I usually do this on wax days. You can get one with an all plastic spray nozzle very cheap at wal-mart. Just get a couple containers of distilled water. If you have a water softener and filter, just go to the sink and fill up!

One other thing is dry with a combed cotton white t-shirt to see how well you washed.

One question-do the quick detailers dry clear on dark paint? I have sprayed them on the wet car and dryed with no streaking, but only on not so dark colors like red. This tends to put moisture back into paint, seals, plastic parts and they do not dry out.

Food for thought -- I use a spray bottle filled with about 50/50 water:zymol auto bathe instead of a bucket. Since I have eliminated the bucket I have much fewer swirl marks and microscratches.

Great tips...thx dude

Excellent tips! Too bad it's raining outside. I really want to wash my new used 325i!

microfiber towels are the best

I'm interested in trying the "blowing air" method for getting most of the water off my car. Here's my question though. I know something like the Metro Air Force filters the air...but what about compressed air? Like, an air compressor with just a blower nozzle on the end. Is that clean enough air or am I going to be blowing contaminants into my paint at high speeds? :-P

So I can't use my gas back pack blower?

to wash , i use one of those ortho dial sprayers,the ones the use to fertilize with, the ones that connect to the hose.i bought that and the quick connects that go one the hose,put your car soap in the sprayer,dial it to 2.5 or 3 press the trigger and instant soap,instead of a bucket were your dipping the sponge back into dirty water, i just rinse the sponge,then when your done disconnect the sprayer and rinse,it saves time.

Pinnacle Foamaster Foam Gun is the way to go for washing... you get nice results........ i am currently using 2 large microfiber towels to dry..... but am looking for something better. how are you guys drying the windows???

Good read. Thanks for the tips.

drying the car quickly i often drive around the block a few times, its still going to have water on it but you can then use chamios or MF and easily dab the water drops off, also it leaves no water spots if you drive around the block then continue to MF dry it. Awesome tips though, great post

I'm interested in trying the "blowing air" method for getting most of the water off my car. Here's my question though. I know something like the Metro Air Force filters the air...but what about compressed air? Like, an air compressor with just a blower nozzle on the end. Is that clean enough air or am I going to be blowing contaminants into my paint at high speeds? :-P

detailing shops and panel shops alway use this method, i dont see anything wrong with compressed air with air nozzle as its just like a leaf blower or any air blower. just comes out faster which around the vents and window its a good thing, also the dust in air vents when detailing the inside off your car you can use the compressor, all the nooks and crannies where there is dust this is a good way off getting the dust and crap out. HTH