View Full Version : Center Tie Rod removal...any ideas?


Breakerbacker
07-22-2005, 06:53 PM
Ok,

so I am pretty far into R&Ring the front end and get hung up on removing the center tie rod at both ends. 323I Junkie comes over with tools (Thanks again Abe) and with a long pry bar and hammer we get lucky and pop the side at the idler arm free. The steering arm side is another story and nowhere near as friendly. Does any one have any tricks or advice on how to remove with out destroying the steering arm in the process?

Thanks for any ideas,

Greg

thejlevie
07-22-2005, 07:30 PM
It should come out fairly easily with a ball joint press, like BMW tool 31 2 240 or similar. I'd be hesitant to try a pickle fork on that ball joint for fear of damage to the steering box.

323I Junkie
07-22-2005, 09:07 PM
I can get one...if you can wait till Tuesday

That tool looks like an otc that My buddy across town has..I have dubious concerns about it working..

The ice idea may be the only way..the cool thing about temperature is a hole in an object shringks bigger, but an objects outer diamerter shrinks acrosss..leaving quite a bit of space..weve used this on Cummins Injectors succesfuly..

mikemaster
07-22-2005, 09:26 PM
I had to use a puller, put some heat (torch) on it, and then I used a long bar and gave one good hit with a hammer from above while the puller was applying pressure. Mine was REALLY stuck, but this method freed it up.

Breakerbacker
07-24-2005, 06:54 PM
Mikemaster,

you were right on with the technique. The trick was finding a suitable piece of bar stock and the right steering position to get a good couple of hits from above. Thanks for the idea.

Greg

323I Junkie
07-25-2005, 08:11 AM
so you got it out?

I was scared to assualt your M5 with anything bigger than what I was using. Like using a wormdrive on a heart surgery :D


well cool

You got all the parts in yet?

Breakerbacker
07-25-2005, 10:09 AM
Yup got it out. In the end, we just needed to stand back and have another beer to properly evaluate all the angles, (ie. provide time for mikemaster to post the answer) and it would have popped out on Friday afternoon.

Yes all the parts are in and they look quite impressive. Unfortunately, FedEx dropped the box and mangled the threads on one of the center tie rod ball joint. :banghead: Ironically, it was the ball joint that was to go on the drivers side. :confused Anyway the parts supplier is going to 2nd day air a new center rod out, so it will be here Wednesday morning. Parts go all back in on Wednesday and Thursday, Alignment Friday.

Also over the weekend, I had a chance to check valve clearances and replace the associated gaskets. All valves at .012" to .013", and the gallery was spotless (pic below) from only synthetics ever pumping through it. New Mobil1 75-90W in the diff, Mobil1 ATF in the tranny, in both cars. Might make it out to an open track day this coming Saturday.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b190/villarealg/Cams003.jpg

Greg

323I Junkie
07-25-2005, 12:18 PM
Looks awesome Greg, IMO another beer and i would have gone underneath the M5 and stayed ther :rofl:

Saying Im a lightweight is understating things :D

I dint ever think there would be enough room from above

Also, that engine looks in awesome condition :buttrock:

its amazing..and what are the factory specs on valves for that engine?

Breakerbacker
07-25-2005, 03:17 PM
Factory spec on valves is .011" to .013", so right on the money. I was worried as I wasnt sure when the last adjustment had been carried out by the po. I have had the car for about 10k miles, so atleast 15k I would guess.

While I have the front end apart, and since I now have a couple of extra days, I have decided to paint the calipers all around. This would be after a thorough cleaning to get the rust off. I am thinking ricer yellow... just kidding on the yellow. :nono

Actually I am thinking black with the ///M painted proper. Subtle yet finished looking. Might as well clean those calipers up.

Greg

Breakerbacker
07-25-2005, 03:18 PM
Factory spec on valves is .011" to .013", so right on the money. I was worried as I wasnt sure when the last adjustment had been carried out by the po. I have had the car for about 10k miles, so atleast 15k I would guess.

While I have the front end apart, and since I now have a couple of extra days, I have decided to paint the calipers all around. This would be after a thorough cleaning to get the rust off. I am thinking ricer yellow...

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b190/villarealg/Brake002.jpg

...just kidding on the yellow. :nono

Actually I am thinking black with the ///M painted proper. Subtle yet finished looking. Might as well clean those calipers up.

Greg

mikemaster
07-25-2005, 10:31 PM
Mikemaster,

you were right on with the technique. The trick was finding a suitable piece of bar stock and the right steering position to get a good couple of hits from above. Thanks for the idea.

Greg

Glad it worked for you! The suspension work really is worth it, and if you hunt down bruno from e34.net you might be able to get a few cheap upgrade parts "while you're in there."

323I Junkie
07-26-2005, 09:09 AM
T-Minus 3 days till track and counting

Breakerbacker
07-26-2005, 09:16 AM
The results are in a new thread, caliper treatment.

tjn182
07-26-2005, 09:17 AM
When I replaced my stuff - I used a propane torch and a pneumatic pickle fork. Those suckers popped out without any problems.

323I Junkie
07-26-2005, 09:26 AM
Its funny, becasue in 15 years of doing this Ive never seen a dag link bonded to a pitman arm the way Gregs were.