323I Junkie
06-15-2005, 01:15 PM
I know its wierd, this is like the 3'rd M5 thread this week
AS you know, I am selling or trading in , probably sell, my 535..its within a day of running again but I just dont want it anymore..you also know I want more of a race car. Ive pondered TCD vs e28M5..and wound up with M5. After discussing it with two different turbo manufactureres, they agreed that boosintg the m5 motor would cost little more than boosintg the 535's..and that the s38b35 ould probably make as much on 7lbs of boost as the m30 would make on 12 to 14..and have superior power curves. The main cost would be ditching the ancient system and going to FAST, MS, ETC..but I can do that before I boost. INital projections show that with proper engine management, I can probably get away with about 8 pounds on the stock s38b35 ...its compression is the same as many other engines running that much. IT would also probably boost power well into the the 375 range..which should put the little e28 into 110 or higher trap speeds and provide very rewarding performance. Even without boost, it seems to be the general consensus that the e28 M5 in us form can do about 295 HP without a cat, a JC chip, and a mildly better muffler. More gains seem to be projected in the fuel economy area by converting to modern MAF or SPeed DEnsity aftermarket engine systems, as well as modern coils and irridium plugs. And in stock form, the little M5 seems to be just intoxicating, evne if its not that fast by modern terms.
so now Im looking aorund. General inteliigence in the car world says if you buying a classic, buy the lowest mileage version you can find. Even if its more...
but I found about 12 cars on autotrader...one example has 102 thousand and they are asking 12..another has 150 and they are asking 8...my question is, among many others, is the 4K more worht 48K miles less? Or is age and care the most important. From what I understand..its suspension bushings (Which is universal to old cars) and timing chain guides that you need to worry about.
heres a link to some examples
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=176732667&dealer_id=51348872&car_year=1988&search_type=both&make=BMW&transmission=&model=M5&distance=0&address=87144&make2=&advanced=y&certified=&max_mileage=&max_price=&min_price=&end_year=1990&color=&start_year=1981&drive=&isp=y&engine=&doors=&fuel=&lang=en&cardist=641
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=182780096&dealer_id=56345329&car_year=1988&search_type=both&make=BMW&transmission=&model=M5&distance=0&address=87144&make2=&advanced=y&certified=&max_mileage=&max_price=&min_price=&end_year=1990&color=&start_year=1981&drive=&isp=y&engine=&doors=&fuel=&lang=en&cardist=1165
Im not kicking tires...im actually doing this (Just not necessarily on these cars)
AS you know, I am selling or trading in , probably sell, my 535..its within a day of running again but I just dont want it anymore..you also know I want more of a race car. Ive pondered TCD vs e28M5..and wound up with M5. After discussing it with two different turbo manufactureres, they agreed that boosintg the m5 motor would cost little more than boosintg the 535's..and that the s38b35 ould probably make as much on 7lbs of boost as the m30 would make on 12 to 14..and have superior power curves. The main cost would be ditching the ancient system and going to FAST, MS, ETC..but I can do that before I boost. INital projections show that with proper engine management, I can probably get away with about 8 pounds on the stock s38b35 ...its compression is the same as many other engines running that much. IT would also probably boost power well into the the 375 range..which should put the little e28 into 110 or higher trap speeds and provide very rewarding performance. Even without boost, it seems to be the general consensus that the e28 M5 in us form can do about 295 HP without a cat, a JC chip, and a mildly better muffler. More gains seem to be projected in the fuel economy area by converting to modern MAF or SPeed DEnsity aftermarket engine systems, as well as modern coils and irridium plugs. And in stock form, the little M5 seems to be just intoxicating, evne if its not that fast by modern terms.
so now Im looking aorund. General inteliigence in the car world says if you buying a classic, buy the lowest mileage version you can find. Even if its more...
but I found about 12 cars on autotrader...one example has 102 thousand and they are asking 12..another has 150 and they are asking 8...my question is, among many others, is the 4K more worht 48K miles less? Or is age and care the most important. From what I understand..its suspension bushings (Which is universal to old cars) and timing chain guides that you need to worry about.
heres a link to some examples
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=176732667&dealer_id=51348872&car_year=1988&search_type=both&make=BMW&transmission=&model=M5&distance=0&address=87144&make2=&advanced=y&certified=&max_mileage=&max_price=&min_price=&end_year=1990&color=&start_year=1981&drive=&isp=y&engine=&doors=&fuel=&lang=en&cardist=641
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=182780096&dealer_id=56345329&car_year=1988&search_type=both&make=BMW&transmission=&model=M5&distance=0&address=87144&make2=&advanced=y&certified=&max_mileage=&max_price=&min_price=&end_year=1990&color=&start_year=1981&drive=&isp=y&engine=&doors=&fuel=&lang=en&cardist=1165
Im not kicking tires...im actually doing this (Just not necessarily on these cars)