Hello all.

I just got an E9 3.0CS, and due to the fact it has a hole the size of a softball in the block, I'm going to replace the engine. While I'm doing that, I figured "Why not just get the motor performance up while it's out? I'm going to do it later anyway." So, I'd like to know ways of increasing the hp/tq of the M30 motor NA. I was looking at a Korman 3.9 stroker with either the 300 or 284 cams and the triple 40 or 45 weber carbs. I also saw that Metric Mechanic also has stroker engines. Does anyone else do M30 strokers?

Oh yeah, the engine uses carbs, and I'd prefer not to go mototronic.

You lucky dog, you have the bmw of my dreams. I have wanted a 3.0cs since '74. As far as the engine goes, I'm not that familiar with what's available, the Korman thing sounds like a neat trick. Is your engine toast? I have a friend with a 3.0s Bavaria that lost the crank and a rod due to the previous owner not checking the oil. If you have usable parts, I would like to know. Bill

Ouch! Throwing a rod is not an experience I would care to have. Yes, the engine is burnt, it's so toast. Like I said, it has a hole in the actual block of the motor. The thing leaks coolant like a sieve. As for parts, I am going to replace the Zenith carbs (Yes, it has the original 35/40 Zeniths, in good tune, no less) with some triple 40 DCOE Webers. I figure, since the collectablity is already shot, why not go all out? The engine itself, aside from the hole, seems to be in fine form. I won't know what parts I'll have to sell until I get the thing running again, I'm afraid. At this point, I just have to get the thing running, as If I don't within a month or so, I will lose the car.

have fun with those triple webers - I put triple DCOE 40s on my Datsun 280Z and have never regretted it. As far as Zeniths go I dont know anything about them but the triple webers definitely allow me much more room for mods than the original Bosch L-Jetronic FI. They also look waaaay cooler.

Since you have such a collector's item, here is something to check into. It seems to me that the 3.0/3.3 blocks are the same. Look on the left side under the manifold, it should be cast there. If your head is good, why not look for another short block? I don't know what differences there might be between an injected and a carbed short block but I would be willing to bet there aren't any. Which means, that an old 530, 533, 733, etc, etc., short block would work. With rings and bearings and your head, you would have the start of a really gonzo ride. I LIKE the idea of the Webers. This could be really cool. Bill :drink1

Well, after much searching, testing, and a bunch of asking, here is the new engine setup for the car: (economy style)

1987 735 complete motor
removing 735 intake manifold, replacing with old intake/dual Zeniths
using old distributor, front plate, oil pan, intake, and carbs.

This should get me the higher compression while keeping the carbs and under 1000$ total. This setup should give me 220+ HP, 230+ft-lbs, and 22mpg with the 4 speed. Also, since it will be from an 87 735, it won't need any special motor mount adapters or stuff like that. All in all, it should satisfy my needs of taking it to body shops and interior places to get quotes. Once I get that taken care of, time to boost the performance!

I think, though, that my first priority is to get it running right, or at least in an acceptable state of tune. After that, some suspension upgrades and brake upgrades will probably be in order, then a 5 speed, and lastly, a 284 cam, headers, and perhaps the double weber 40 DCOEs. The Weber prices right now are insane because they have been on strike for the last year, and part reserves are gone. Thusly, it makes a lot more sense to just hold out now that production has resumed. With those engine mods, I would estimate about 260HP/270ft-lbs. After that, it's time for FI, and the real fun begins...

As for the exterior/interior, I was going to get the car painted calypso red, the e34 metallic dark red. I was going to redo the interior in black leather with red stitching, and stain the wood (or get new wood and sell the old) a deep cherry color. If I can, I'd like to put some diamond black BBS-RGRs. I have them on my E34 and love them. I imagine HIDs are out of the question, but better night visibility would be nice. What do you guys think?

Oh, and current pictures:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=369457

I will start the fun of engine removal this weekend while I'm waiting for my BavRecycle motor to arrive.

Sounds to me like the fun is about to start!!! You are moving along faster than I am. Good luck and keep us posted. :drink1

Well, I ordered the engine today. 590$ from Bavarian Auto Recyclers. Funny how shipping cost more than half the cost of the motor. :confused It should be here sometime within the next two weeks.

Did you miss my email? I had an entire 5speed 535i for $500 for your swap. No problem though I'll keep it for parts. :)

No room for a parts car, unfortunately. My driveway already looks like a used car lot. I think if I got another, my folks would have my head.

What's the 5 speed? Too bad you guys are so far away. Sounds like you are on the right track, make that old baby scream!!!

My lift got here 2 days ago, and the conversion parts are coming from La Jolla BMW. Talked with Carl Nelson; guy knows his stuff. Chalk up another 200$ or so to bring the 3.5 conversion total to 1100$.

Got from La Jolla:
cam conversion nut (40$)
lots of gaskets (intake, exhaust, valve cover, front cover, oil pan) (50$)
electric fuel pump (50$)

From BavAuto:
1987 735i motor long block : 590$

Everything else is shipping, so far. Heck, shipping the engine cost more than half the motor itself.

Keep us posted, I personally am salavating at the possibilities.

Worked on it for about 9 hours this weekend; got everything out and ready to go except for the transmission. I am debating wether or not to remove it or try to finangle the bellhousing off while leaving the transmission on. As it is, such a task will have to wait until next weekend, since no buddy to work on the car with and to help me out except for the weekend.

I need to get some crescent or S style wrenches for this task.

Well, based on the e9 enthusiast board's suggestion, I am going to disconnect the transmission from the driveshaft at the guibo and lift out the entire drivetrain, engine, bellhousing, and transmission. My lift and lack of certain tools (like a spring compressor) means I can't do the "easiest" route of unbolting the front subframe and lifting the body off the drivetrain. However, I will get that motor out this weekend, even if I have to watch the fireworks from my garage!

Oh, and the new M30 comes on wednesday.

Engine is out, parts swapping between motors is coming along nicely. I gotta say, though, there is enough crud on the old motor to make three gallons of mineral spirits into a paste, rather than a clear, non-viscous liquid like it is normally.

Keep us updatedon the progress as I have a friend contemplating the exact same thing. Are you using the Motronic and the stock intake manifold? What about the brake booster?

Did you end up taking the trans off the engine? I need to get back to work on my 6

Keep us updatedon the progress as I have a friend contemplating the exact same thing. Are you using the Motronic and the stock intake manifold? What about the brake booster?

Actually, I am running the dual Zenith carbs, the 35/40's. I have to finish this really quick, so I figured the fewer changes I make, the easier it will be.

Yep, I took off the exhaust, transmission, undid the driveshaft, the whole 9 yards. I ended up removing the exhaust first, then the transmission, half pulling the engine, then removing the bellhousing, cursing the fact that I don't have a load leveller, and finally pulling the whole engine out.

Oh, for the transmission, it slides out really easy, except for one thing. Once you undo the 4 main bolts connecting the bellhousing to the transmission, look inside the clutch inlet of the bellhousing, and you will see a spring clip attached to the synchro activator in the transmission. Before you go pulling like crazy, remove that clip! It took my father and I about 30 min of yanking, prying, and otherwise cursing to finally grab a light and notice that little dang clip. Then the whole transmission came right out.

Well, I am about even with you. Exhaust off, trans out, need to pull bell housing. When I get time. Taking a week off and going to the coast. Later.

Ordered all new pumps, hoses, and last of the gaskets from Carl Nelson yesterday. This thing should purr once I get the carbs tuned. At the moment, I'm cleaning off the headers, grinding off enough rust to make my shirt red. Also, got the VIN decoded by the BMW Archive people. Turns out the car was made on July 13, 1972, delivered on the 18th, and was originally Polaris Metallic silver. (paint code 060) Heck of a 33rd birthday for a car, no? :D

Another weeknd, more stuff done for the swap.

Hoses and water pump did not come, but motor mounts, oil pump and gasket did. However, due to so many of the hoses requiring very tight confines, I have decided to wait and put in the engine after I get all the other stuff in.

So, this weekend, I:
changed oil pump
swapped oil pans
added cam conversion nut
switched timing covers, rocker covers
mated transmission/clutch/bellhousing/engine
replaced mounts (motor and transmission)
painted block
pressure washed transmission/engine
put on intake manifolds with carbs
put on all brackets
fixed control linkages
added motor mount plates

So, as soon as I get the rest of the parts in, that engine is going right back in. Here's hoping it will all work on the first try! (yeah, right)

Congrats, you are moving right along. Alas, mine is gathering dust. My busiest time of the year, I hope to get something done soon. I'm still interested in what parts (crank, rods) might be left over when you get done.

I *think* I've taken off all the parts I need from the old motor. Lemme see... what's left that I won't use in a mototronic swap later...

Ah! ok, here's what's left:
Euro pistons
Euro crankshaft/ con rods
Euro head/camshaft/rockers
Front lower timing cover
Old (but still good!) oil pump and sump

Stuff you'd need for a complete engine:
Upper front timing cover
Distributor drive gear
Distributor
Intake manifolds
I would *highly* reccomend a new water pump
Fuel pump (I think it is kaput, but I have the mechanical one, if interested.)
Oil pan

I can take pics, if you want, but I mostly left the engine as intact as I could make it. From what I could see (with the oil pan and rocker cover off) the engine had the nice, even, golden color throughout. I bet this thing ran like a top until the PO blew it. It appears that a coolant passage blew open, as the engine held oil. (a Lot of oil, which is now all over the garage floor) Thusly, I imagine all the important internals are still in fine shape. The oil pump works because I tried to crank the engine a few times, and in doing so, the oil pressure light went out. I tried this multiple times, so I think it works.

Like I've said before, the motor is from a 1972 3.0 CS, built in July 1972.

thanks for keeping us updated on your project.that doesn't always happen.my 203k engine also has the golden sheen under the covers,with no accumulation of caked up oil.i dont redline this baby,but always hit at least 5k on every drive,frequently.hope this M30 doesn't blow like the one you're replacing.i dont beat it mind you,but she does get driven.and revs soo freely.an engine needs to breathe,right?

Finally, the rest of the parts came. Things like:
Water pump
lots of gaskets
almost every hose in the engine
belts
New lights, high and low
thermostat
Petronix ignitor
new coated downpipes
9 blade fan and viscous clutch

So this weekend I am going to attempt re-insertion, since it is my last chance to dso before school starts. My second man (since engine installation is def. a 2 person job) wants to go to Sturgis, so next weekend is out, and then I have to move for school. I have to get this done now.

Well, things changed. Again.

I was fooling around, looking for 5 speed transmission candidates when I found this shop called Strictly German. He was able to quote me 500$ for transmission and associated parts. (slave cylinder, TO arm& bearing, shift linkage, spedo cable, etc.) While hashing this deal out, I mentioned that next summer, I was planning on going motronic. Upon hearing this, my dad suddenly felt generous enough to say "let's just get that done now." So, now, what was once a budget 3.5 w/ carbs swap has balloned into a full-blown 3.5+ motronic+5 speed conversion. Granted, when it is done, it will be a superb vehicle, but suffice it to say that now, among other things, I am broke and have car parts laying everywhere. Also, 3 of my headlights were burned out, and since they were old-style, I had to get whole new lights. Upon removing the old ones, I discovered the headlight brackets and supporting rings were very rusted. So, I've spent a few days giving these parts a veritable spa treatmment. Grinding down the rust, using paint stripper for the rest of it, using a rust penetrator as a base, followed up with 2 generous coats of both rustoleum primer and black enamel. These things should rust after I'm dead, not before. All that is left is to put it all back together when I get home tonight. Then I'll have to undo all the work I did to get the engine carb ready, since I am now going motronic. I wish I had known it would go like this, as I wouldn't have taken the engine apart.

I have got to get this thing working now.

good luck, post some pics up!!

Isn't it amazing how we get sidetracked (and always for the better)!! I don't know how many time I have steered away from the original plan but it always seems to work out for the better (even if the final objective is put off for a while). I'm glad your dad is into it too, that's great. Good luck and oh yea, how about some pics of the project? :drink1

Got a lot done today, like swapping the manifolds, replacing the water pump, wrapping up the lights, replacing the motronic distributor, and a lot of other stuff. Now, I just need to get:
1 thermostat housing gasket (where it mates to the block)
1 valve cover gasket (new style)
1 upper front timing cover gasket set (new set I ordered before broke)
1 M30B34 91 735 valve cover (the one with the AFM studs)
1 brake booster that fits
1 tach sensor bracket (the kind that measures speed from the harmonic balancer)


That should about do it. Everything fits, so far.

And since you guys asked, here's pics. Oh, and Ol'6erGuy, I took some pics of the old motor since you or your friend wanted some parts.

nice info and good stuff! Roughly all in all, how much are you spending to do the whole conversion?

Thus far, the entire tally reads something like this:
1 1987 735 long block - 590$
shipping - - 300$
lots o gaskets - 50$
Getrag 265 w/spedo drive- 500$
all motronic parts -300$
brake booster - 50$
shortened driveshaft ~300$

I could have saved engine shipping if I had gotten the long block from a local shop, but I foolishly forgot to check around thoroughly for such a shop.

1st time you roll thru the gears,it will all seem worth every penny.
i just took the 6 out for a spin after repairing the ECU,and in 3rd gear around 4k and climbing,this baby just flies.And you've got 2 more gears to go thru.

Ok, time for an update.

First off, I had to leave for university in mid-august, so some progress (albeit far less than an equivalent quantity of time during the summer) has been made.

The engine is back in the car, and we are now in the extremely dangerous process of reinstalling the transmission. We would have simply dropped the whole thing in the car (engine/trannie) as a unit, but we were thwarted by the garage ceiling.

We also got a 2002tii NOS brake booster to clear the motronic manifold (thank you, ebay!) as well as most of the wiring sorted out.

The list of tasks left looks like this:
1. put "new" trannie in
2. send driveshaft out to be cut/rebuilt
3. put in new booster and move brake lines to new master cylinder position
4. add fuel return line and integrate electric fuel pump
5. sort out wiring connections to the car
6. put in new driveshaft
7. make up an exhaust
8. fire it up!

I'm shooting to get it fired up for the first time around October 15th, with or without the driveshaft. I just want to make sure the engine works.

Ok! Engine and trannie are back in the car, no driveshaft yet. The wiring is somewhat sorted out, but I have to try and figure out why the fuel pump and coil are not working as they should. Other than that, the car cranks and doesn't leak! I still have to put in the new brake booster and swap out the clutch slave cylinder, as well as putting in a fuel return line.

I'll post pics when I get back to my machine at university.

AWESOME!!! When do you hope to have the driveshaft and wiring sorted out?

Pics, as promised.

The wiring is most assuredly not final, as is the placement for the fuel pump/filter. I'll hopefully be able to sort out most things after a day of line sniffing and a bit of creative placement.

The driveshaft, depending on where you go, takes about a week. so, I just need to measure the new distance and take it to a shop.

Needless to say, when it is done, I'm taking it to a shop and having them go everything over to make sure I didn't forget a bolt or something.

Lookin' good.:buttrock You are ahead of me by a long shot. Now that the busy season is close to over, I hope to get back to my project.:redspot

It was actually really funny when I first cranked it. At first, the starter would always engage if the battery was hooked in, until I took the initiative and disconnected a wire unique to the 735 harness.

Anyway, when I first did a turn-key crank, there was this loud bang. I was pretty freaked out, as it was a whole lot more than just a backfire or compression. When I pushed the car out of the garage for more tests, I noticed under the car these two large, red caps. I had forgotten to take out the exhaust plugs from BavAuto! At least I know the motor has good compression.

Oh, and Ol'6erGuy, does your friend still want the euro block parts? I can verify that it is a euro 1972 3.0CS M30 motor with a later (82) head. I never heard it run, so I don't know what kind of shape it is in. It still held oil without leaks, and has good compression, at least by feel. I can verify with a compression tester if needed.

the 3.5 looks at home setting in there.if it makes it any easier,i know someone transplanting the engine/trans (and he hopes the drivetrain) into a 70 240Z.he's been planning it for yrs and is finally starting on it.he has quite a bit of creative engineering to work out.he loves/loved his 6(which is the donor),but is more fond of the Z,as it goes way back and has sat idle for 15yrs..he still has a 2002,E30 and a mini.

I don't know what he is going to do. He is trying to get a small winery going while working for another up and coming one. He keeps hinting that it would make a great project for ME, as if I need another one. So, right now, I don't know.

Update time!

Ok, I worked on things a bit this weekend, and now have fuel. The fuel pump works, and the coil seems to be working, but that I am not so sure of. I am getting battery voltage at all three posts when the key is in the "run" position. I would appreciate it if someone would check their coil voltages when running, cold, or cranking, as it would let me know if I am doing it right. The ECU is all wired up, alkthough most asuredly not in its final spot, and seems to be working, as when in run, but not cranked, the ICV starts moving.

The fuel pump is working so well, in fact, that the small hose connecting the fuel pressure regulator cranked under the new presuure, spewing gas everywhere. So I have to fix that.

Things are progressing nicely, though, so I can't complain. With school being so hard and all, though, I think the next time I will be able to work on it will be Thanksgiving.

It is alive! It runs, although we didn't want to do it for very long as the downpipes are not on nor is there coolant in it. So, now we are handing it over to the professionals, let them button it up, make it run right, etc. In other words, all the headache. Assuming we find someone willing to go over it, we hope to have the car in the body shop mechanically sound by christmas, and finished sometime in january or feb. Then it is "only" interior and sound work.

great job,keep us updated.

It is alive! It runs, although we didn't want to do it for very long as the downpipes are not on nor is there coolant in it. So, now we are handing it over to the professionals, let them button it up, make it run right, etc. In other words, all the headache. Assuming we find someone willing to go over it, we hope to have the car in the body shop mechanically sound by christmas, and finished sometime in january or feb. Then it is "only" interior and sound work.


Congrats!!! Post up them pics!! :D

Congrats!!! Post up them pics!! :D

Doesn't look any different from last time, I'm afraid. All I was doing was monkeying with the electricals.

I'm in the process of finding a shop that will pick up where I left off, which is rather difficult. Most of them essentially said "You made your bed now lie in it." as they think of me as a threat. One of my local mechanics was very pissed with me for doing this job myself, as when he heard that I was fishing for an E9, he immediately suggested that I simply give it to him and pay him to do it. Never mind that it would completely negate the point of looking for the car in the first place. Never mind it would cost more than triple the cost of the car. I can't blame him, though, as it would have been a nice chunk of cash for him, but still.

I used to work in a computer store, and it was company policy to help DIY people, as they kept coming back to order expensive parts, because they trusted us. We even held classes on how to build your own, because we (my boss and I, nice small company) knew people would come back, even if the price was a little higher. Because of this supportive stance, we had something like a 90% customer return rate. Mechanics could learn a trick or two from that.

Body shop hunting is similar, but even worse. I want to actually get the rust *fixed* not bondo-ed, which most are loathe to do unless I suddenly do an off-body resto, which I will not front the scratch for right now. It is absurd! I just want the body freaking patched or lead-filled! It doesn't have to be councourse, it is going to be a daily!

To ladies, gents, and all the ships at sea:

It will be done by the end of January if things keep progressing as they have. Mechanically, anyway. Pics upon return, of course. The car is not dead.

Good job!!:buttrock You are way ahead of me, but at least I'm still plugging along.
As far as your old engine, we need to talk. My friend is selling the property where the Bavaria is, and has decided that I need another project. The car is mine, I just don't know what I'm going to do with it. When was the last time you saw a Bavaria running around? I can't remember either. It's worth fixing. Good luck.:drink1

Good job!!:buttrock You are way ahead of me, but at least I'm still plugging along.
As far as your old engine, we need to talk. My friend is selling the property where the Bavaria is, and has decided that I need another project. The car is mine, I just don't know what I'm going to do with it. When was the last time you saw a Bavaria running around? I can't remember either. It's worth fixing. Good luck.:drink1

I am certain you would like pics; I'll take some when I pick up the car. Here is what is useable from the motor:
1. Intake manifolds and original Zeniths
2. Euro head/cams/rockers/springs
3. Euro crank/pistons
4. Front covers, upper and lower
5. Mechnical distributor/drive gear
6. Thermostat housing, oil pump

Also have the original 4 speed transmission that felt like it was in working order.

Now, I cannot say how good all these parts are, as I never heard the car run or drive before I swapped everything out. However, upon dissassembly, everything seemed to be in nice shape.

Just be aware that the interior bits are the hardest to get, so if the interior is in good shape and the body isn't too rusted, it should be a fairly simple fix.

Update again!

Ok, the car has been at Bobby Thrash's place getting checked out for about a month and a half. (they have not been working on the car for that long, just been really busy with other stuff) So, I went to go take a look at it to see their progress.

It appears they have been mostly rewiring things, as the car was a mess of hacked jobs before I ever got to it. So they have cleared up a lot of splices leading to nowhere, which is good. They have also put in the brake booster/master cylinder setup, so it fits, albeit snugly. I also saw they took apart the fuel sender, I suppose to add the fuel return line.

Thusly, they have left to do:
1. Replace headers
2. Fab up a SuperSprint based exhaust (possibly side-exiting, like the racing CSLs)
3. Drag fuel return line
4. Secure the shifter plate to the transmission tunnel
5. Cut the driveshaft to the right size
6. Do anything else to make it safe

Everything else should be dandy. Hopefully, it will be done within 2 weeks. Needless to say, pics will be posted.

Looks like things are moving along good for you. I hate wiring messes, I wish people would leave wiring to those who know what they are doing. I have had to clean up a few messes myself. Looks like you are going to have your beast running before me, I'm still a month or two off.:drink1 :drink1

Hello everyone.

A good weekend, the car is back at home at long last! We drove it home (an hour and a half long drive) it ran great. The motor was strong, the idle pretty steady, no cooling problems. However, the shop didn't do several things:

one caliper was stuck shut
interior a mess (I told them not to worry about it, but they disabled some things that worked before, like turn signals)
removed AC compressor
lots of seemingly random wiring jobs

Other than that, it worked great. The shocks and springs are shot, it needs an air filter, and the interior needs to be put back to rights. After that, it will be perfectly driveable.

And, of course, pics!

Looks great man. I love the way that intake manifold looks, its a classic to me. Thats great that its running man, i bet it feels great. good work!

Looks great man. I love the way that intake manifold looks, its a classic to me. Thats great that its running man, i bet it feels great. good work!

Actually, if the wiring job wasn't so bad, I would have used an earlier, log style intake with 320i intake runners. They give better low-end torque when compared to the 3.5 Motronic intake.

It is plain to see that the brakes are shot; all the rotors look like records. The caliper springs look like they belong on the Titanic, they are so rusted. I can't complain all that much, though, as all the idiot lights work and I got the hazards/turn signals working again. It fires up readily, although the idle needs to be adjusted to about 800, as right now it sits at around a very lumpy 400. I just got some new tires for it, since the old ones were so dry rotted they were the equivalent of tire worm-food. Now, I am going to put in all new weather seals and strips. The problem is, I found all the weather seals except for the one I need the most, the driver's door weatherseal, the one that goes all the way around the door on the body side. The pass side is readily available, but the driver's side is nowhere in the US or Germany, apparently.

My tire selection is severely limited by the stock wheel size. if anybody has a lead on some staggered Alpinas for sale, I'd appreciate a tip.

Hey,
Great project. I just stumbled on this. I have a question about the ECU placement. Are you going to run that into the glove box? With that E32 harness, will it reach?

I ask as Im doing this swap into my E28. Im haveing trouble finding a E24 harness. I have a E34 harness, but am concerned about the ECU harness length?

Any info would be great

Project look very promising.

RussC

Hey,
Great project. I just stumbled on this. I have a question about the ECU placement. Are you going to run that into the glove box? With that E32 harness, will it reach?

I ask as Im doing this swap into my E28. Im haveing trouble finding a E24 harness. I have a E34 harness, but am concerned about the ECU harness length?

Any info would be great

Project look very promising.

RussC

I was going to make an enclosure, like E34s do. I just took a look at it, and it seems like it will reach the glove box of my E9 just fine. I do not know about E28s, though. It looks like I have about 6" of wiring play from the back of the valve cover, I do not know if that is sufficient length for you.

Thanks for the info,
RussC

Update.

Car has a new set of tires on the original alloys, 4 rebuilt calipers, and new brake lines. I have a set of Bilsteins all ready to go, but unfortunately I am having a bit of toruble sourcing some non-drop rear springs. Once the suspension is sorted back, I have most of the door and trunk gaskets all ready, except for the driver's door weatherstrip. It was kind of funny to pick up these seals, as most of them were in the original 1970s packaging.

Before I do the weatherstrips, though, I will have the body fixed up. Post weatherstrip, it will be time for the least fun part of the whole rebuilding experince: the interior. I'll need to make a custom sound system. Not something bass-heavy, but something that simply sounds good and requires no holes be cut in the door panels or other irreplaceable parts of the interior. Pics when Finals are over.

Sounds like it is coming along for you quite nicely. I have been looking around on the forum and it seems like the admins took the E9 off of the 6er board, but i cant seem to find where they put it back. The system does sound like it wont be fun, neither the interior. Are you going with a stock interior or perhaps an upgrade of some sort. I have been in a 3.0 CSL and i remember not being able to see to well because of how low the seats were in the car, but that could have been the ridiculously deep stock bucket seats that were in it. Good luck, hope all goes well.

-Jeff

Sounds like it is coming along for you quite nicely. I have been looking around on the forum and it seems like the admins took the E9 off of the 6er board, but i cant seem to find where they put it back. The system does sound like it wont be fun, neither the interior. Are you going with a stock interior or perhaps an upgrade of some sort. I have been in a 3.0 CSL and i remember not being able to see to well because of how low the seats were in the car, but that could have been the ridiculously deep stock bucket seats that were in it. Good luck, hope all goes well.

-Jeff

The CSL seats are downright engulfing, but you also cannot slide around in them. Mine is a standard CS, so I have the normal, almost bench-like, seats. They are as flat as a window pane right now. Once I get some scratch, I'd like to switch the car to a tan interior and put in some e21 sport seats. Currently, the visibility is superb; having no B pillar helps. Interior parts prices are so high I am considering some sort of custom colution, but nothing is set at the moment. I am far more cencerned about its functionality over the interior. Considering I am going to have to completely gut it, I figure I may as well make it like I want.

I have been driving it around for a few weeks and it is simply fun. Gas mileage is pretty good too, around 25, it feels like. I added an O2 sensor, that helped quite a bit. The car is still down on power for some reason, something I am attempting to fix. The car stops on a dime and handles pretty well, considering the age. Some sways will go a very long way. I am working on an ECU box based off the mini one, and need to replace the gauge lights so I can drive at night.

I keep getting lots of thumbs-up from many people, although I keep getting the same question over and over:
"Hey, is that a 2002?"

I think I'll have to get a custom plate: NOTA2002. :stickoutt

Things seem to be going well. You could tell all those folks that it really is a 2002, but on steroids!!:D

Updates!

I have spent the last few days taking apart the interior in an attempt to figure out the frankenstein wiring job the car currently has. The car currently looks like this:
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~gtg982h/intgut.JPG
sans all seats and heater/console. I managed to get both front windows working without too much hassle. Then, the time came to try to figure out this little horror:
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~gtg982h/rear%20reg.JPG
I want to find the guy who designed it and beat him over the head with it. They made it so uselessly complex! After attempting to get the regulator out, as the window has to be down to get the regulator out, but my window is stuck up, I asked my dad for help and ended up with this:
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~gtg982h/busted2.JPG
so now I get to find new glass, too. Great.

Other than that, the car runs well. I'd be out driving it were it not for these problems.

that sucks.hopefully a new glass wont be too hard to find.
the wiring on the sons 6 has been tampered with and having to do quite a bit of electrical repair.his looks like yours with all the wires exposed.

that sucks.hopefully a new glass wont be too hard to find.
the wiring on the sons 6 has been tampered with and having to do quite a bit of electrical repair.his looks like yours with all the wires exposed.

Yeah, the more I open this car, the worse it gets. The fronts are actually e28 motors, but the rears are original. The whole thing is gestalt of old and older technology, so making the entire system work is akin to directing an elderly sychronized swimming team. Plus, once I got the regulator out, the damn thing is locked up hard, I can't turn the primary regulator gear at all. I think I am going to have to completely dismantle the entire lifter mechanicsm and clean it one item at a time. Hopefully the other side won't be as bad.

On the plus side of things, the mechanical side of the car is in perfect condition. It runs like a top, albeit a very hot top.

don't know if this will help or not.but i may have an extra motor for the rear drivers side.it's for an 86 635.check and see if they're the same.motor only,no linkage.
real.oem has a cross reference feature,but i've never used it.

It's that time again, update time!

I have been working mostly on the window regulators. After the last debacle concerning the removal of the window, I decided to play it a bit safer. The other window was locked as well, so I took a drill and "de-toothed" a gear that connects the main regulator gear to the motor. This allowed the window to move enough that I could remove the window and regulator without much difficulty. I am going to be upgrading to E28 rear motors (or E28 front ones, looks like they will both work) to eliminate the troublesome transmission, as that was the part that failed on both rear setups so far.

I have also been removing the sound deadening material on the floor of the car. I hate this stuff so much. It's like they took tar and laid paper over it. This means I have to scrape it off, one section at a time to figure out how much rust is present, and so far, it isn't pretty. I honestly expected it, though. I didn't expect there to be a 1" by 6" hole in the left rear wheel well, however. That was pretty bad. Once the SD material is all cleaned up, the car will be sent to the body shop, with a tenative due date of December.

More to come.

Haven't updated in a while, so it is time.

The car was dropped off for body work on Aug. 18th. I will be getting weekly email updates about the car, complete with pictures, so I can post up pics as it progresses.

awsome man i love the look of that car , cant wait to see her finished , what color u painting it?

awsome man i love the look of that car , cant wait to see her finished , what color u painting it?

Since I am only doing an 80% resto (not removing the dash, not removing the engine, so the engine bay will still be rather bad) I am leaving it the current color, Fjord Metallicblau. I should be picking up the car in the beginning/middle of December.

In a few years, I'll have the engine bay redone as well, but since it isn't crucial at the moment, like the rest of the body, I unfortunately must leave it for later.

Oh, I forgot. As a bit of closure for the window debacle, a fellow coupester sent me another window for free. The sense of brotherhood among the E9 guys is fantastic.

Awesome story/thread. Love the E9. I'm sure someone mentioned the old E9 saying "I can hear it in my garage at night, rusting."

I'm so glad there are people out there like you who are willing to tackle projects like that!

cant wait to see the pictures. my friends dad with the 3.0csl i had mentioned earlier was the Fjord metallic as well. BMW makes some of the nicest blue paint ever, especially on the 70s-80s and now the newer cars have some really good ones.

-Jeff

Awesome story/thread. Love the E9. I'm sure someone mentioned the old E9 saying "I can hear it in my garage at night, rusting."

I'm so glad there are people out there like you who are willing to tackle projects like that!

Assuming I stil have it in perhaps 10 years, I'll be saving up enough to just dip the bloody thing and galvanize it. Every time I would lift the car, I'd have to sweep away a bit more of it.

It has indeed been a project, but a fun one. After the body work, all I have left to do is interior-related, like adding an AC system, a sound system, new carpets, stuff like that. I do not have enough scratch to have the seats redone, so those will remain cloth for the time being.

I am going to try and modify a Mini Cooper's AC system, as it fits in a similar space as the center console in the E9, especially if I can remove the heater. Then I would have to make some custom ducting and make the bowden cables from the original heater/AC faceplate control the Mini's system.

As for a sound system, I made thread about it in the ausio section of this board, and my biggest concern is where to put the bloody speakers! There is no room anywhere up front, unless I feel like hacking up my door panels, which I think are too nice for that.

10-4 on the rust. Let me know if any e-12 based 6er parts could be used.

It has been a few months, so it is time for an update.

The car is still in the body shop, (another month... then it is mine again) so not exactly a lot of progress has been made. However, I have figured out what kind of AC system I am going with. The company, ICE, makes a 2002 kit using modern components, and I plan to modify the faceplate to fit the E9, or just make my own and fit the AC to the heater vent.

The other part I am focusing on is audio. I want to listen to music while driving, something apparently unknown in the early 70s, as the car has no radio and no speakers. Thusly, I am exploring where to place some. The car's confines are exceedingly tight, so some thin profile speakers are probably my only option with some larger drivers in the parcel shelf.

So the project isn't dead, just being worked on by someone else.

Sounds good, ive been thinking about what i want to do with the audio in my car too, let us know what you find in the way of the slim profile speakers that have a good range or sound, id def be interested in something like that.

-Jeff

Sounds good, ive been thinking about what i want to do with the audio in my car too, let us know what you find in the way of the slim profile speakers that have a good range or sound, id def be interested in something like that.

-Jeff

So far, CDT slims look like the best bet. The drivers are Viva units, though, so you can supposedly just get the drivers form Viva and the x-overs from CDT, saves about 200$. Check that in the audio section, though.

Update:
Went to the body shop, took some pics. Car is progressing nicely. Still on schedule for the mid-december due date.
Pics:
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~gtg982h/pics/PICT06101.JPG
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~gtg982h/pics/PICT06111.JPG
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~gtg982h/pics/PICT06131.JPG

Good thread, unbelievable patience and dedication, best of luck

Good to hear that its going to be ready on schedule. Thats one heck of a christmas present to yourself too haha, although im sure its still not going to be early enough!

-Jeff

Good to hear that its going to be ready on schedule. Thats one heck of a christmas present to yourself too haha, although im sure its still not going to be early enough!

-Jeff

After 2 years of work, yeah, it is time. Of course, like anything similar, it will never truly be "done", there will always be something I'd like to do with it. For example, when I have to do a full frame-off resto (in perhaps 5-10 years) I will really go nuts on it. Redone interior, complete bead blast, repaint it Calypso, and put on that twin-screw kit I designed.

^ Calypso? Is that the metallic purple on some of the E36 M3's? That would be a crazy color for that car. I would love to bead blast my car, but at this point id like to drive it haha.

-Jeff

Calypso:
http://www.gamite.net/bmw/images/Fairview.JPG

In a previous post, I mentioned that I'd like to paint it calypso and redo the interior in black leather with red stitching, along with rosewood. I think it would look sweet.

I like the calypso a lot. very classy looking red. Should really make the lines on the E9 pop! Im a fan of red with tan interiors though, just something about it. Im redoing wolfie in the burgondrot metallic and tan leather, a little darker leather than the pearl beige. But that calypso would look really good with a black interior. What about the tubing on the seats? Would you keep them black or make them red...that is if the seats you get done have tubing.

-Jeff

Update:
Went to see the car last weekend. All primered up, stuff is at chromers, glass all fixed, rust taken care of. (As much as it can be, anyway)

The car just needs the spray. Should have it back later this week. I'll post pics.

this thread is fantastic. very inspirational, and makes me want to pick up my own classic!!

Cant wait to see the pictures of that car finished! Im sure you cant sleep well at night haha. Not until the car is at home at least haha....

-Jeff

Well, the body shop guy was rushing to get it out the door, since he is taking a vacation to see his in-laws, and the tape he used was a bit too much for the paint. Peeled off a significant portion of the afflicted area. As such, the car will not be done by the end of this week. It will instead be delivered early January.

Bummer. :(

any new news?

any new news?

Haven't heard from body shop guy when I called wed. of last week. I'll be trying again tommorow morning. I have no doubt he wants it done as well, sicne he has other projects to attend to. Based on what he has left to do, I'd guess middle/late january end date. He still has to paint the stripe and put all the trim back on the car, as well as align the doors/trunk/hood. I'd venture about 20 hours. I'll get a full status update when I get ahold of him. Who knows, it may be delivered this weekend. We shall see.

Ok, had a nice, long chat with the body shop guy. Car will be delivered on the 27th.

Car was ready a bit later than expected, but the work is excellent. I will post pics when I have some light and a better camera, which should be Sunday.

http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~gtg982h/pics/new1.JPG

Here is one pic that actually turned out reasonably well. I will take more on the morrow.

FANTASTIC!!! congrats on getting the car back, from that photo it looks like its a great job! Im sure you are more excited to drive than let it sit and take pictures, which i would too haha. Looks great cant wait to see the rest of it! I like the incognito 3.5 csi too, sublte touch that makes it yours, good work

-Jeff

I had to get back to university pretty early in the day, and I had to get the rear windows back in, so I was unable to take any more pics. I will be home next weekend, though, to help the family move.

The lettering is a bit off on the stripe, but that is my own fault for not giving the body shop guy a better picture to go off of.

OMG Xatlas0! You deserve a medal for persistency, patience. Your car looks beautiful and absolutely to die for!!!! Well done and much respect for working at it.

Send pics of interior when possible.

OMG Xatlas0! You deserve a medal for persistency, patience. Your car looks beautiful and absolutely to die for!!!! Well done and much respect for working at it.

Send pics of interior when possible.

The interior, regrettably, will largely have to be redone. The door panels are in good condition, as is most of the wood, but the center console took a fall and will have to be rebuilt. New carpet is on the way. The rest of the interior will likely have to be a custom job, including new door panels, as I have a stereo to install.

The rest of the car still has some problems to address, specifically a stumble at around 2-3k at more than 30% throttle, and the ignition switch needs to be rebuilt or replaced. I have also noticed that second gear has a decided "thud" to it, so I will be saving for a rebuilt Blaton Getrag 265.

Mine started the 2nd gear thud about 70k miles ago. I switched the gear lube to RedLine and it almost dissapeared accept on the 1st few shifts on very cold days.

Mine started the 2nd gear thud about 70k miles ago. I switched the gear lube to RedLine and it almost dissapeared accept on the 1st few shifts on very cold days.

I'll try switching fluids when I have the chance, right now it has fresh valvoline MTL with the proper weight. The other gears engage fine, but second has much more of a "thud" noise to it when it is engaged. The synchros seem to be working fine.

As promised, pics with better light. Not a better camera, nor a better photographer, but hey, they aren't too bad. 56k-ers will probably need to go make a snack or something.

Next up, interior work... :stickoutt
http://cengs.com/old_website/matt/pic1.JPG
http://cengs.com/old_website/matt/pic2.JPG
http://cengs.com/old_website/matt/pic3.JPG
http://cengs.com/old_website/matt/pic4.JPG
http://cengs.com/old_website/matt/pic5.JPG
http://cengs.com/old_website/matt/pic6.JPG
http://cengs.com/old_website/matt/pic7.JPG

Very, very nice!!! :redspot I'm going to have to start working on mine again!!

HOLY MOLY! Just saw this thread, looks great!

I love how you call college "university". You must be a European! :)

Excellent, looks great man. Those cars are one of the best looking cars in motion too, so cool.

-Jeff

HOLY MOLY! Just saw this thread, looks great!

I love how you call college "university". You must be a European! :)

Nope, been in the south all my life. Many people do say that I speak oddly, though. Saying a different word than others would use, for instance.

By the way, do you guys think this thread (and old 6er guy's thread) would be synergy-worthy?

Many people do say that I speak oddly, though.

Hmmm---oddly---hmmm. Must be from the south. :lol :lol :lol (couldn't pass it up--forgive me--)

This is what a couple of beers does to the poor old brains.

Beautiful car and an outstanding job. Well worth the wait, you must be stoked!

btw, we call it university down here in the southern hemisphere too.

Beautiful car and an outstanding job. Well worth the wait, you must be stoked!

btw, we call it university down here in the southern hemisphere too.

Not stoked exactly. When I picked up the car, there was a broken grommet on the fuel return line. I did not discover this until I was filling it up and someone pointed out that the car was hemmoraging gas. (the fuel return line is drilled into the top of the fuel tank) After more than an hour of mopping up gas and fashioning a duct tape special, I noticed it had a stumble at 2-3k RPM at more than ~30% throttle. I figured it was because a ground had been painted over, because the fuel tank was suddenly not a sealed unit, or because the fuel had been sitting in the tank since August and it was on fumes when I pulled it in.

The clincher was what happened when I moved it into that shiny new garage in the pictures. I pulled it out of the old house, everything was peachy, coolant in the blue. It is ~2 miles to the new house, so I don't expect the engine to warm up. I'm about halfway there and the coolant suddenly shoots into the red. The warning lights go off, so I drive it as conservatively as possible the remaining distance. Heck, I turned the car off for the last 1/4th mile. It really made me appreciate vac-assisted brakes and power steering. I open the hood to see rust-colored coolant had spewn over the engine bay from the overflow tank, just like it was supposed to. The real question is, though, why it overheated in the first place?

I fired it up again a few hours later to pull it in the garage, and the car started just fine, no smoke, no funky idle, no nothing. I filled the car with coolant, since it had blown most of it. I'm still trying to figure out how air got into the coolant system in the first place, as I think that is what happened.

Crap!!! I hope you didn't toast it after all you have been through.

Crap!!! I hope you didn't toast it after all you have been through.

Me too, although based on how it acted, I doubt that is the case. I sw no oil in the coolant, no white smoke, nothing to indicate a cracked head or a blown head gasket.

Plus, my 2 year warranty on the engine is still in effect. :stickoutt

Plus, my 2 year warranty on the engine is still in effect. :stickoutt

That's a GOOD deal!!

That's a GOOD deal!!

It would have been better if I had been able to actually drive the car over that span of time, but oh well. I've got until July.

Huzzah for BavEngine.

twin-screw kit I designed.

Hmmm?

I love the old bimmers so much more than the new ones. I'd love to pick up one of these given the opportunity.

Hmmm?

I love the old bimmers so much more than the new ones. I'd love to pick up one of these given the opportunity.

I designed it for a class project. Working with Norman Garrett, (of Miata fame) I made the physical plans, as well as some early timing charts, AF charts, and dyno charts. I designed it with the 2L Eaton, I think, but it would be easily changed to the 2.2L Autorotor/Whipple unit. Once I have some spare cash (~5-8k) I was planning on buying another M30B35 and putting it on there, then into the coupe.

I designed it for a class project. Working with Normal Garett, (of Miata fame) I made the physical plans, as well as some early timing charts, AF charts, and dyno charts. I designed it with the 2L Eaton, I think, but it would be easily changed to the 2.2L Autorotor/Whipple unit. Once I have some spare cash (~5-8k) I was planning on buying another M30B35 and putting it on there, then into the coupe.

I'd be really interested to see you complete that project, sounds like a lot of work was put into it. What class was it for?

I'd be really interested to see you complete that project, sounds like a lot of work was put into it. What class was it for?

The only automotive class at GaTech, Internal Combustion Engines, ME 4803A.

I would very much like to do it as well, as there is one other screwed coupe that I am aware of, there are videos of it all over the place. The guy is (of course) in Sweden.

I'll have to see if I can find those videos. Is there any way you can send me the design? I'm a Mech. Engr. major plus that whole boost bug has me very curious to see it:D

Thread on the E9 board about the screwed coupe, with pics.
http://e9coupe.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1150&sid=47bae734d1b92f97c8426857d7e68ced

As far as my design, I guess it wouldn't hurt to put up a system pic. This was a rough 3D render in SolidEdge, sans any textures and whatnot. A disadvantage of the system is it would require modification of the stock hood, but not for fitment reasons. After looking at the Subies, Mitsus, MB's, and Minis that have hood scoops, it works extremely well, especially if the scoop component beneath the hood is designed correctly. Hence, a subtle hood scoop would have to be made.

I got the idea for the general setup from looking at Jackson Racing kits, as well as a member's custom Eaton-ed M30 635.

http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~gtg982h/system1.JPG

That E9 was nasty. I'll have to read more about twin screws and the possibilities of fitting one onto a M30. Call me crazy, but I love that S/C whine.

That E9 was nasty. I'll have to read more about twin screws and the possibilities of fitting one onto a M30. Call me crazy, but I love that S/C whine.

While turbos are more thermodynamically and mechanically efficient, I like the method of power delivery of a supercharger, especially a Roots, Eaton, or Twin-Screw much more than the typical turbo delivery. Plus, I'm not going for record-breaking power, just ~400rwhp. That would let me destroy an E60 M5 with little trouble, since my E9 weighs about 700-900lbs less. Any more power than that (and possibly that amount of power) may cause major frame damage to the coupe, anyway.

Agreed, there's a certain point where the power just isn't useable anymore.

Agreed, there's a certain point where the power just isn't useable anymore.

The limits of the frame and the limits of the tires are the main power limitation issues. The tires have a maximum width (using stock fenders, anyway) of 205's up front and 225 in the back on 16" wheels. Even with crazy sticky tires, that is a serious limit. With later fenders, I can go as high as 355. Given the size of the major frame components, I'd have a hard time putting more than 300lb-ft of torque through the car without major reinforcement.

Spring break means work done on the car.

Today, I got all the lights working again, all over the car. At least I didn't have to make a new harness, but considering how corroded many of the connections were, it may have been for the better.

More importantly, I got the AVIC-Z1 in the car. I haven't hooked it up yet, but I fabbed up some mounting brackets and have it situated in the car in the perfect way.

On the morrow, I will be making new console sections and a new parcel shelf, as well as installing the speakers and the wiring of the Z1. If everything gets done, I will post pics.

I will post pics.

Looking forward to it!

Ok, new console sections made, all wiring done, all holes made. A few more uses of the Dremel with the drill bit and I'll have the amp mounted. At this point, it is all just putting things back together. By the end of the day tommorow, I will have done everything I can at this point. Carpet will arrive next friday, so friday night will be an adventure in putting everything back together quickly for a show on Saturday.

What show?

What show?

The Georgia Tech auto show. For Alums and student's cars only. Anybody can come, though.

http://www.gatechautoshow.com/

Well guys, it is over. After two years of hard work, sweat, and a lot of blood, the car is "finished", meaning it is back to fully driveable, fully useable condition. There are, of course, things that need to be fixed, but they are mostly annoyances at this point. I got the car to the GaTech auto show, with the help of my Dad, where it was quite popular, always with a crowd of people around it. The car is, as usual with these things, an ongoing project, but for now, it is done. To somewhat close a chapter in this now very long thread, I present a set of pictures, showing the progress from the start to now.

Start:
http://cengs.com/old_website/matt/PICT0145.JPG
With a good bit of rust, a very dirty interior, and a blown engine, the resto begins.
http://cengs.com/old_website/matt/PICT0183.JPG
This was the first day we worked on the car. Many, many more days were to follow.
http://cengs.com/old_website/matt/ontop.JPG
As with all projects of this nature, hilarity ensues, such as seen in this picture.
http://cengs.com/old_website/matt/GA%20Tech%20car%20show%2007%200081.JPG
This is the final result. This is the car at the Tech show.
http://cengs.com/old_website/matt/GA%20Tech%20car%20show%2007%200101.JPG
Here is the "finished" interior. I will place the microphone somewhere, as well as fix the under steering panels, but for the rest of things, it is pretty finished.
http://cengs.com/old_website/matt/GA%20Tech%20car%20show%2007%200201.JPG
And here is how it finished, the same way it started, with a handshake.

You have a very beautiful car. It shows the hard work and love you have put in to it. Good job. As far as this thread being over---what about the 'little things' you need or plan to do??? hummmm??
I just hope mine will look half as good when I get a chance to get it done.

Great to see that youve been able to share this progress that has come to something you can drive and appreciate daily! This thread is really an inspiration to all.

-Jeff

You have a very beautiful car. It shows the hard work and love you have put in to it. Good job. As far as this thread being over---what about the 'little things' you need or plan to do??? hummmm??
I just hope mine will look half as good when I get a chance to get it done.

Hm, little things..

1. fix under steering interior section
2. fix alternator issue (probably voltage regulator)
3. fix radiator leak
4. re-align windows and make car watertight with new gaskets
5. Fix blower motor
6. put in front speakers (ergo, new door panels too)
7. install Raamat that I already have
8. install good carpet
9. re-align CSL steering wheel
10. install MAF I already have
11. sway bars. It really, really needs them. if I take a turn, it feels like I am on a bike.
12. springs- perhaps, perhaps not. On the one hand, it is very soft now. On the other hand, it is nice to go over speed bumps at more than 5 mph.
13. exhaust- right now it has a pretty lame exhaust. Time for a custom SuperSprint system.
14. Limited Slip Diff. For the safety and fun factor.

After that, it is performance upgrades, but I figure this will take me a while.

16" Alpina's look really trick on the old coupes with 205/55 on front and 225/50 on the rear.

Really looking good!!!

16" Alpina's look really trick on the old coupes with 205/55 on front and 225/50 on the rear.

Really looking good!!!

...and cost an arm, a leg, and your firstborn if you have bad credit. I would love to have a set of 16" staggered Alpinas, but right now, it just isn't in the cards. Heck, I'd buy a beat up set for ~500$ and fix them up, but I can't afford a 2k set of wheels. 2k is a lot of other parts.

Thanks for the compliment, though.

Awesome!

Wish I could've been at the show to see it.

Got a bit of a suprise for the coupe from my girlfriend; she bought me a UUC SSK. Specifically, a USSE5. I hope this will fit, given it is supposed to go on the trans from an E28 528, and uses the older "cowling-style" shifter linkage, rather than the later "bar-style" type.

And a big thanks to CDM5GO, thank you for helping her. She did find it pretty amusing that you knew exactly who it was for the instant she described the car.

Just read the thread. Very cool car and nice work. :thumbup:

Just read the thread. Very cool car and nice work. :thumbup:

Thanks for the kind words. Once I get the thing really "done" (meaning I won't have to drive it on a wing and a prayer) I plan to bring it to the local meets and such.

Now, if I could just get this dang alternator issue resolved...

Fixed my alternator issue, only to find I broke my coil in a moment of stupidity. So, I have to get a new coil, as right now, the car bucks wildly and backfires at more than 30% throttle.

As far as the alt goes, I ended up getting a refurbished 65A alt (stock was 55A) from an E12 off of ebay. It "mostly" was a stock fit, although the wiring was a bit more tricky since it has an internal voltage regulator, whereas the original had an external. So, I had to jerry-rig a bypass for the external and make a connector to link the alt with the original harness, as the alt plug was different from the socket in the new alt.

Always something...

Well, it was a good day tonight, I snagged a 3.45 sideloader LSD for a killer price off ebay. The seller didn't mention older vehicle fitments, which is why the horde of other LSD-craving E9 guys probably didn't see it. So, that is another upgrade to add to the "put on" list. On the plus side, now I won't have to change my spedo gearing to compensate for a new diff.

1. Miller MAF
2. UUC SSK
3. 3.45 LSD

Replaced the coil with a new straight-up Bosch unit from KO performance. Worked like a champ, the car is much more responsive, doesn't backfire, and seems to have much better power. Now, just to fix everything else... :stickoutt

Ordered a set of rear window rubber so the car doesn't leak. This will unfortunately require removing the interior all over again. I'd have to do that anyway, though, as I have new carpet (courtesy of Al Canuk, as he is known on this board) and sound deadening (Raamat) to install.

Another 400$ to stop the rain... :stickoutt

This is one of my favorite threads ever... :)

This is one of my favorite threads ever... :)

Glad you like it!

I'm afraid it is due for a major change due to some parts I recently snagged, including an entire AC system. So, I'm working on building a "pod" to replace the dash speaker and come off the main cluster pod. This "pod" will contain the nav system and some gauges, hopefully.

Of course, at the same time, I have several major interior things to install, like carpet and Raamat.

I just need to learn some interior tricks now...

So, once more into the breach, it would seem. It was nice to have it in driveable shape for 5 months or so... :stickoutt

The fuel pump has been getting progressively louder for a while, so I knew it was time for a new one. The one I used originally was used anyway, so I wasn't too concerned about it. Got a new one for ~60$, got under the car to replace it, and found a very unpleasant suprise: the reason why the fuel pump failed is because the fuel filter was in line AFTER the fuel pump! The yokels that worked on some of the drivetrain bits did it wrong! That was the only thing they seemed to do right, until I got down there and actually checked it. Yeesh.

So, this weekend, I'll get some fuel line and splice it up right. Shouldn't have to do it in the first place, considering it is such a stupid thing for them to have done from the get-go. On a whim, I cleaned out (as much as I could, anyway) the old fuel pump, and it works much better now. So, I've got a spare.

The filter should be after the pump. This would prevent any components of the pump from finding their way into the lines in case of a pump failure. The pickup in the tank should have a screen that would prevent large particulate from making it's way to the pump. You may need to check for the pick-up screen and also check the tank for sediment. The attached picture shows a typical BMW pump setup, notice the arrow indicating the flow. Many aftermarket FI pump set ups will have a 100 micron pre-filter, the pump and then a 10 micron filter before the injectors.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/i/b/8.png

Here is another style with an expansion tank:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/i/h/1.png

The filter should be after the pump. This would prevent any components of the pump from finding their way into the lines in case of a pump failure. The pickup in the tank should have a screen that would prevent large particulate from making it's way to the pump. You may need to check for the pick-up screen and also check the tank for sediment. The attached picture shows a typical BMW pump setup, notice the arrow indicating the flow. Many aftermarket FI pump set ups will have a 100 micron pre-filter, the pump and then a 10 micron filter before the injectors.


There is no pre-filter, I'm afraid. There is a screen inside the fuel pump, which was pretty much covered in gunk. Looks like I should add a pre-filter, then.

You might want to check the bottom of the pick-up to see if the screen is still in place. It is shown in this pic depending on the type of pick-up you have and if you have a pre-pump in tank. These pics are for the e24s but you should have something similiar.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/h/u/2.png

You might want to check the bottom of the pick-up to see if the screen is still in place. It is shown in this pic depending on the type of pick-up you have and if you have a pre-pump in tank. These pics are for the e24s but you should have something similiar.


My pickup is just a bent steel tube with a grommet on it at the tank interface. The pickup is connected straight to the fuel pump input, such that the only filtering is done by the fuel filter after the fuel pump and by the screen in the fuel pump. There is no pre-pump. This system was cobbled together by the guys that did my driveshaft work. It seemed to work fine, so I never bothered to check it. Bad move on my part, I guess. So I need to put a pre-filter on my pickup somehow. How do I put it on there, considering the pickup is inside the tank?

The pics you are posting don't work because realoem found out bimmerforums was using the pics a lot, and they blocked it. It would probably be easiest if you posted the link to the system breakdown in realoem itself, rather than trying to get the picture alone.

Sorry about the pics; they show for me but you can look on realoem for most of the e12/e23/e24/e28 and see what I am talking about.

Some of the older American muscle cars had a "sock" attached to the pick-up in the tank. We used to blow compressed air in the tank to blow them off because they would get clogged over time and were a pain to replace. It might be possible to attach one of these to your pickup. Another thing that might be needed is to have your tank cleaned and coated. It seems that the last tank that I had cleaned and coated was about $125 which also included a repair of the filler tube joint. I had this done at N. GA Radiator which is basically across the street (backs up on next street over) from our facility here in Cumming.

Sorry about the pics; they show for me but you can look on realoem for most of the e12/e23/e24/e28 and see what I am talking about.

Some of the older American muscle cars had a "sock" attached to the pick-up in the tank. We used to blow compressed air in the tank to blow them off because they would get clogged over time and were a pain to replace. It might be possible to attach one of these to your pickup. Another thing that might be needed is to have your tank cleaned and coated. It seems that the last tank that I had cleaned and coated was about $125 which also included a repair of the filler tube joint. I had this done at N. GA Radiator which is basically across the street (backs up on next street over) from our facility here in Cumming.

Where is this? It sounds like a good idea.

Take 400n to exit 16 (Pilgrim Mill) and take a left back across 400. N. GA Rad is about 1/2 mile on the right. Just imagine what an old radiator shop might look like and you cant miss it.

It's been a while, so I figured I'd post an update. Since last time, I haven't really done to much with the car. I have put in the new window seals, but now I can't get the damn window aligned right. Talk about aggravating! I put new channel felt, new lower window seal (which required me to remove the entire rear window assembly, then remove the rear window, change the seal which took about 10 seconds, then put it all back) and I adjusted the travel of the window. As it is, the thing leaks more than a 20 year old roof.

Still, I'm just glad I finally got the bloody charging issue sorted out. I'm not contantly running out of electricity any more.

So, as always, more to do...

I know how time consumming it can be to adjust the windows on the e24 but we have excellent write-ups available; not sure if you are able to find that for the e9. Good luck.

Did you do anything about your tank scale issue?

Shockingly enough, I'm still working on this car.

I had a spare weekend back in December, so I decided to put a UUC Evo3 SSK on the coupe, as I had been given it as a gift. What was supposed to take 15 min ended up being finished last night.

The UUC guys were great all around. They get me the parts I needed quickly and understood my problem, even if it had never happened before.

I got the old shifter out after some major wrangling, lots of swearing, and using a prybar. The lower shifter rod just did not want to come out of the shifter bushing! Next came problem #1: I had been given the wrong bushing set! So, I called up UUC and they sent me the correct ball bushing set. The shifter in my coupe sits in a metal plate, rather than a rod like later cars. The kit came with the bushings for the rod, rather than the plate.

So a day or two goes by, I get the bushings, and install the shifter in about 2 min. Then comes problem #2: the metal bushings on the bottom of the shifter rod were too small to fit the connecting rod from the lower shifter! This caused a good bit of consternation at UUC, since they all were supposed to be 10mm. After some measuring, they sent me three seperate bushing sets of varying diameters. I got these two days ago.

Eagerly anticipating awesome shifting, I grabbed the middle sized bushing set, only to find that it didn't fit. The larger set didn't fit either. At this point, I figured enough was enough. I grabbed my Dremel and ground off some of the connecting rod. This finally did the trick.

I wasn't able to get the bushing at the transmission connection, so that one is still loose, but the rest of it is as stich as can be. I am very pleased with the kit and with my experience at UUC.

Now, I just have to fix the ruddy ignition switch, among other things.

Good to know about the kit from them being made up for the bar style shifter. So that is set-up for the 265 trans, and the 260/6. Im pretty sure the 260/5 had the plate style shifter that you have in your car.

I was thinking of looking around for a used UUC product, but it still may be out of the price range, your price of free probably also made it easier to want to mess with it to make it work rather than flip sh*t on UUC for not having the right stuff for $300.

What issues are you having with the ignition switch? Mine seems to be busted too, cant turn the key at all, and sounds like there are loose parts in the tumbler.

-Jeff

Good to know about the kit from them being made up for the bar style shifter. So that is set-up for the 265 trans, and the 260/6. Im pretty sure the 260/5 had the plate style shifter that you have in your car.

I was thinking of looking around for a used UUC product, but it still may be out of the price range, your price of free probably also made it easier to want to mess with it to make it work rather than flip sh*t on UUC for not having the right stuff for $300.

What issues are you having with the ignition switch? Mine seems to be busted too, cant turn the key at all, and sounds like there are loose parts in the tumbler.

-Jeff

Jeff-
Actually, both transmissions got the plate shifter, if I am not mistaken. The thing that determiens which you have is the year. It switched in 1985, if I recall right. Plus, it wasn't UUC's fault that the wrong things were in there, my GF just got slightly the wrong thing, which is easy to understand, given how convoluted the car is.

I'm running a 265, rather than a 260. The 265 is stronger and rebuildable. Plus, I like that it is seperable from the bellhousing. Made putting it in a snap.

My ignition switch is failing because when I crank the car, if the key lingers at all inbetween "start" and "on", it kills the power. I probably just have a loose or corroded contact.

Figured you guys would want an update.

The car, for all intents and purposes, is on hold due to me getting into (and therefore going to) graduate school. Given that I am paying for said school out of my own pocket, I don't exactly have the cash to keep fixing it.

So, in the meantime, since the body is in great shape, I dropped it off at a certain resto shop (http://www.flashbackmotorworks.com/home.html) so they can actually make the car not leak like a sieve when it gets wet. They will fit it in when they have time, and since I'll be gone for a good 2 years, it isn't like there is a rush.

So, for now, the car is surrounded by V12 E-type Jags and Austin-Healy 3000s.

For those that want to know, I got into Texas A&M for a Masters in Mechanical Engineering. So, we'll see how that turns out.

On the plus side of things, I finally fixed that damn charging problem by effectively re-wiring the alternator. However, the peak charging voltage is ~13.3, so I've still got issues somewhere. (given the state of my harness, I'd probably say more like everywhere)

The coupe shall rise again!

Congrats on grad school! I've been thinkin about it myself. Cars can wait:)

Congrats on grad school! I've been thinkin about it myself. Cars can wait:)

With it costing 20k /year of my own cash (and even then, that's with a gift from the school of in-state tuition and a thousand bucks) it really has to. I've been saving for the last year or so, and most of the money that I haven't saved has gone to the 540, since it was rather neglected over the last 5 years.

Get a company to pay for it and do really, really well on the GRE. Also, unless you have a 3+ GPA, you may as well not bother. Pretty much every school had that requirement, and it was a hard-line one, meaning no exceptions. The only break is that some schools only measure the last 60 hours when they calculate this. So, if you suck eggs the first couple of years (like me) then start crushing your classes later, you can still pull it off.