Just thought I'd share some of my new toys that just arrived.

DLS Iridiums 8.3
Tru Technology T-4.100
Tru Technology T-2.100
Oz Audio Matrix Elite 12.2 DVC

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_90_full.jpg
DLS 3" mid and 1" tweets
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_94_full.jpg
DLS 8" Midbass
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_92_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_93_full.jpg
2 Crossovers per side... one to separate the mid/tweet and the other for the midbass
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_91_full.jpg
Tru Technology T-2.100
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_95_full.jpg

using the stock wiring?

using the stock wiring?
lol... i just read your thread and now i'm not sure anymore. originally, i was going to use the stock wiring from the stock amp, but do you think they can handle about 160 watts of power?

supposedly, the T-4.100 can put out about 160 watts per channel, so should i just run all new wiring? if so, what gauge?

wow! Awesome euipment. :redspot



i would run some new 16 awg

lol... i just read your thread and now i'm not sure anymore. originally, i was going to use the stock wiring from the stock amp, but do you think they can handle about 160 watts of power?

supposedly, the T-4.100 can put out about 160 watts per channel, so should i just run all new wiring? if so, what gauge?

I'm using the stock wiring after the crossovers. I mounted the crossovers in the trunk by the OEM wiring. I have 16 gauge going to the crossovers from the amp.

You just need to remember that you're not sending 160w through the OEM wiring after the crossovers - the crossovers distribute the signal and power, so you'll have about 80w going to the woofer and the rest going to the mids/tweeters. The OEM wiring will be fine.

Pics of the OZ Matrix Elite subs please, not that I havent seen them already :devillook

How do you like em Darren?

Wow, that's some amazing equipment. I can't wait to see how it turns out.

Out of curiousity... anyone ever check the stock wiring for resistance (more resistance = less power to speakers)? Thought it might be an interesting test to check the impedence of the stock wiring vs. some aftermarket wiring and see if there's even a significant difference.

I'm using the stock wiring after the crossovers. I mounted the crossovers in the trunk by the OEM wiring. I have 16 gauge going to the crossovers from the amp.

You just need to remember that you're not sending 160w through the OEM wiring after the crossovers - the crossovers distribute the signal and power, so you'll have about 80w going to the woofer and the rest going to the mids/tweeters. The OEM wiring will be fine.
actually, with the DLS Iridium, thre are (2) crossovers per side. In other words, theres (1) crossover for the JUST the midbass and the other crossover to bipass the mid and tweet. Since I'll be using all 4 channels for the JUST the components, 160W will go to the midbass, and another 160W will go between the mid and tweet... :buttrock

Pics of the OZ Matrix Elite subs please, not that I havent seen them already
How do you like em Darren?
Still waiting for the Oz ME 12.2... :( They were at of stock with the 12.2 DVC configuration, but it should be here by the end of next week.

wow! Awesome euipment.
i would run some new 16 awg
hmmm... i'm actually thinking about it, BUT how do you run wires from the door to the rear??? :shifty

Out of curiousity... anyone ever check the stock wiring for resistance (more resistance = less power to speakers)? Thought it might be an interesting test to check the impedence of the stock wiring vs. some aftermarket wiring and see if there's even a significant difference.
good question, i'd like to know too....

hmmm... i'm actually thinking about it, BUT how do you run wires from the door to the rear??? :shifty
Well, it's not exactly easy, but can be done. You run it along the floor on the side of the car then in the door crack will be a rubber grommet thing where all the stock wires go. Pull that off and run the wiring through there. It is a pain in the ass, but imo, if you are going to run equipment like that you better do it the justice of installingit right.

Well, it's not exactly easy, but can be done. You run it along the floor on the side of the car then in the door crack will be a rubber grommet thing where all the stock wires go. Pull that off and run the wiring through there. It is a pain in the ass, but imo, if you are going to run equipment like that you better do it the justice of installingit right.
Not entirely true, in our cars there is a connector there that makes passing wires through next to impossible. Rcurley managed to do it by drilling a hole in it, and I have seen some people run the wire on the outside, but it is def not an easy task. If it were me I'd just use the stock wires to go through the door.

eazym3, why you attack me on the wiring post on the other thread and not on this one? (view this link: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=364517 -- did I interpret your reply wrong?)

Anyway,
You should use at least 16 awg. The longer the run, the thicker the gauge. and if you want to keep quality up, make all your runs the same length, every millisecond counts... or get a head with time correction. (overkill)

MisterX, giving up too easy! see this post:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=351633&highlight=wire+run



It isn't bad at all, really.

And if you are running a smaller gauge like 16 (compared to 10) then it isnt a big deal. And eric is right, if you're gonna do an install with equipment like that, the install itself has to be equal or better.

keep us posted

You sir, must have the patience of God ;) When I was hooking mine up one glimpse of the harness is all it took for me to decide the stock wiring was sufficient for the doors.

You will be added to the list of people who make their trunk lids rattle

eazym3, why you attack me on the wiring post on the other thread and not on this one? (view this link: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=364517 -- did I interpret your reply wrong?)
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=351633&highlight=wire+run
keep us posted
JPWheeler,

In actuality, I have come to look forward from hearing your posts/advice (and that of eric77's) in recent months. In that particular post, I did not mean to "attack" you, but was really in "shock" because I never even considered that the stock wiring could be a "weak link" in my system. I took it as very informative and didn't mean for you to take it as an "attack." Like others in this particular section, I'm here to learn from others that are way more experience than I.

Knowing me, I'll probably just upgrade the speaker wire to 16g. Anyone know what the stock wiring is?

You will be added to the list of people who make their trunk lids rattle
I don't think so... I already hacked up my rear deck from my previous install so bass should have no problems getting from the trunk to the inside cabin. Taking out the rear speakers isn't enuff... in addition, I chose to cut 2 additional holes to help port the deck AND sound deadener doesn't hurt either...
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_25_full.jpg

how do you like the DLS? I'm considering the 3-way seeing as they are just about a perfect fit in the stock locals. I just ran all my wire, interconnects, and remote wire from the trunk to the back of my H.U. it was the easiest wiring I'v done in a long time! Also I was was pleasantly suprised at how little my trunk is rattling, really its just those rubber flaps in the quarter pannles that are making any noise. I also have my subs firing from the rear corners in(I made fitted fiber glass boxes behind the tail lights)
-brian

sorry, I'm just touchy (all the glue huffing I guess - jeanclaude post from today regarding the box he built).

Anyway, MisterX, I have no patience. My car has earned a few new curse words as nicknames. and my hands look like I wear barb wire gloves. Your way was certainly the smart way. Oh, and in an M Coupe (or any Zed Coupe for that matter) what woofer(s) are you running in the doors? The shop just came in possesion of an '00 imola red one and I think my car may need to have a younger sibling... (another reason for me to lose some weight)

Sorry for the hijack Eazy

how do you like the DLS? I'm considering the 3-way seeing as they are just about a perfect fit in the stock locals. I just ran all my wire, interconnects, and remote wire from the trunk to the back of my H.U. it was the easiest wiring I'v done in a long time! Also I was was pleasantly suprised at how little my trunk is rattling, really its just those rubber flaps in the quarter pannles that are making any noise. I also have my subs firing from the rear corners in(I made fitted fiber glass boxes behind the tail lights)
-brian
I can't really tell you how the DLS' are because I haven't hooked them up yet. i'm going to have custom kicks made to fit the 8" midass drivers and might as well pay the shop to run 16g speaker wire for the components too. but for now, i still have to take out my door panels so the upholstery shop can re-upholster my door panels to match my Sparco Torinos. i'm also in the process of re-doing my door panels and rear seats which is lagging my speaker install...

i already installed the Tru 4.100 and grounded it to the battery and am getting some annoying alternator whine. after doing some research, e36's are reknowned for finding a good ground. right now, it's grounded to the battery about 5 ft away... can anyone else suggest a good ground? this sucks!

I grounded to the factory spot that the batt. uses. Its a foot away from the batt. under the black plastic cover directly to the left of the batt. no problems thus far.
-brian

I grounded to the factory spot that the batt. uses. Its a foot away from the batt. under the black plastic cover directly to the left of the batt. no problems thus far.
-brian
nice! i'm gonna check that out today! :alright

benny z had some nasty alt whine too. here's his thread about it http://bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=360876


and also, in this thread there is a link to a good tutorial on getting rid of unwanted groun noise http://bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=360756

sorry, I'm just touchy (all the glue huffing I guess - jeanclaude post from today regarding the box he built).

Anyway, MisterX, I have no patience. My car has earned a few new curse words as nicknames. and my hands look like I wear barb wire gloves. Your way was certainly the smart way. Oh, and in an M Coupe (or any Zed Coupe for that matter) what woofer(s) are you running in the doors? The shop just came in possesion of an '00 imola red one and I think my car may need to have a younger sibling... (another reason for me to lose some weight)

Sorry for the hijack Eazy
I actually have the stock HK system in the M Coupe right now, I was running edis in my E36. I'm not sure what I'm going to put in this car, but most likely a 5.25" because I don't want to hack up the kicks on this car, or make custom kick panels again.

But I seriously recomend picking it up, this car is just a blast to drive.

Sorry for the hijack Eazy.

where did you get those TRU amps from, i envy ... gah

where did you get those TRU amps from, i envy ... gah
I think Ed sells them

well they are amazing

JPWheeler,

In actuality, I have come to look forward from hearing your posts/advice (and that of eric77's) in recent months. In that particular post, I did not mean to "attack" you, but was really in "shock" because I never even considered that the stock wiring could be a "weak link" in my system. I took it as very informative and didn't mean for you to take it as an "attack." Like others in this particular section, I'm here to learn from others that are way more experience than I.

Knowing me, I'll probably just upgrade the speaker wire to 16g. Anyone know what the stock wiring is?


I don't think so... I already hacked up my rear deck from my previous install so bass should have no problems getting from the trunk to the inside cabin. Taking out the rear speakers isn't enuff... in addition, I chose to cut 2 additional holes to help port the deck AND sound deadener doesn't hurt either...
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_25_full.jpg

The stock wiring in my E39 is about 20 gauge based on the thickness of the conductors. In that car there are 3 runs: tweeter, mid, and lower mid. When I installed my current system I calculated the series resistance and modeled it in a crossover program to see its effects. The results were that it didn't matter enough to go to the trouble of new wiring.
My system is totally active, so the added resistance had no effect on the response---only a slight loss of power (maybe a dB at most). With a passive system, you might want to install the crossovers in the doors to minimize the resistance between the crossovers and the drivers. This will minimize any frequency response anomolies. In addition, you can parallel all the stock wiring (all 3 runs) to drive the crossovers and the wiring would be about 16 gauge anyway. But in all fairness, most people would not hear a significant difference.

It is amazing what many people think happens with thinner gauge wires. Some think it delays the signals, while others think it is a huge loss of power. They never even consider the massive losses already in the crossovers! Those coils of wire have more resistance than most any stock wiring. And the tweeters usually have several ohms of onboard resistance to attentuate them.

It seems even more absurd that people feel they need massive speaker cables for their subwoofers when the run is rarely more than a few feet. The voice coils are wound with no larger than 22 gauge wire (at best) and they are many feet long. The tinsel leads (the flexible wires that connect the voice coil to the speaker terminals) usually are the equivalent of about 26 gauge wire!

IMHO, you shouldn't lose any sleep over using the stock wiring for the doors of a BMW.

Matthew

thanks for the info exmaxima1, i'm taking everything into consideration. if the stereo shop can run all new wires for less than $100, then i'll do it. if not, then i'll just do it the easy way i guess. that way, i'll just let the shop decide for me and not lose any sleep over it like you said.

anyways, got a little work done last night and got my false floor setup so i can still take out the spare tire. the custom sub will be located on the left side behind the rear tire well, so i really am not sure where i can put the second sub amp. i'm thinking, it's probably going to have to go over the battery...
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_101_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_100_full.jpg

also tweaked out the amp rack a little bit by adding little risers in each corner for a cool effect. used plexi glass adhesive to mount everything together and it's super strong...
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_103_full.jpg

the custom sub will be located on the left side behind the rear tire well, so i really am not sure where i can put the second sub amp. i'm thinking, it's probably going to have to go over the battery...

how about building some alluminum dowel spacers and mounting a 2nd plexi piece a few inches above the component amp? ...like double-decker style.

???

how about building some alluminum dowel spacers and mounting a 2nd plexi piece a few inches above the component amp? ...like double-decker style.
???

VERY interesting suggestion. at first, i was against the idea of doing a double-decker style amp rack because i wanted full access to my gains and crossovers on the amp, BUT if i can off set the smaller amp to the right a little bit and build plexi glass columns above the bigger amp, i might be able to pull it off!

you're a genius Benny! the reason why i'm leaning towards the plexiglass risers is because it might be a lot easier for me to work with. the plexiglass glue that i found yesterday bonds so strong, it might be better than screws...

dang, now i just wanna leave work and just try this at home! :devillook

sweet! post pics!

the ONLY drawback that i can think of to this type of design is cable management. you may have to get creative there. however, if you use black wire looms and run them down the back side of one of your columns, you should be able to keep it clean looking.

sweet! post pics!

the ONLY drawback that i can think of to this type of design is cable management. you may have to get creative there. however, if you use black wire looms and run them down the back side of one of your columns, you should be able to keep it clean looking.
your right, cable management will be a challenge. i'll worry about that later when the time comes... but, this is what i was thinking so far...
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_104_full.jpg

that would be very slick.

can't wait to see it!

Who cuts the plexi glass for you? Where did you buy that?

I think it looks awesome.

Who cuts the plexi glass for you? Where did you buy that?

I think it looks awesome.
does your avator say "clit commander?" AND, you have a picture of your gf in your sig... lol, that is too funny.

anyways, there's a place called Tap Plastics all over the Bay Area where you can buy and have them cut it for you (tapplastics.com). just tell them your dimensions and they'll cut it for you on the spot. they also have some basic shapes like round/square rods that i'm thinking about buying too. i can pretty much cut that myself using my ghetto rotozip (one of my only tools i have).

in fact, i'm gonna go there right now since there's one like 2 minutes away from my work... laterz....

Can someone help me out real quick referring to this wiring diagram: http://www.dakarm3.com/e36_200w_stereo_pinouts.gif

what's color wires run to the 5 1/4 drivers in the kicks? according to the schematic, blue/brown wires are used for the LEFT and RIGHT negative midbass?!?

is this all correct so far?

+ L/F Tweet = yellow/black
- L/F Tweet = yellow/brown
+ L/F midrage = yellow/red
- L/F midrage = yellow/brown
+ L/F midbass = blue/white
- L/F midbass = blue/brown?

+ R/F Tweet = blue/black
- R/F Tweet = blue/brown
+ R/F midrage = blue/red
- R/F midrage = blue/brown
+ R/F midbass = blue/red
- R/F midbass = blue/brown?

just pull the woofer out and check the colors. they are the same all the way back to the amp. that's what i had to do on mine...the colors of the wires in that schematic were totally not right for my e36.

also, if nobody answers before i'm out of here for the day i'll check mine. mine are very accessible underneith my crossovers and i should be able to trace them to the woofer/midrange/tweeter outputs of the crossovers.

...but then again, they might be different on your car.

just pull the woofer out and check the colors. they are the same all the way back to the amp. that's what i had to do on mine...the colors of the wires in that schematic were totally not right for my e36.
also, if nobody answers before i'm out of here for the day i'll check mine. mine are very accessible underneith my crossovers and i should be able to trace them to the woofer/midrange/tweeter outputs of the crossovers.
...but then again, they might be different on your car.
come to think about it, i think you're right... when i first hooked up my xovers, i remember them being a little wrong. i'll just trace them back like you suggested... just bored at work and need something to do.

come to think about it, i think you're right... when i first hooked up my xovers, i remember them being a little wrong. i'll just trace them back like you suggested... just bored at work and need something to do.

werd.

since you seem as bored as me, here...trace them yourself:

http://forums.***************************************?attachmentid=112317&stc=1

:D :D :D

werd.

since you seem as bored as me, here...trace them yourself:
:D :D :D
nice work Benny, you ANAL BASTARD!!! is that heatshrink?! :stickoutt

man, i should've just brought my wires and crimping tools at work today and do all this crap in the parking garage...

lol...

yeh, heatshrink. every spliced wire in my system is soldered and heatshrink'd...oh every one has a dab of electrical grease on it, too, to keep it clean. :cool

i finished my amp rack over the weekend but am not sure if it will fit behind my rear seats yet. :(

the top of it may be a little too high causing it to obstruct the rear seats from folding down... i guess i won't know until i get my rear seats back from the upholstery shop and test fit everything to know for sure... but until then, oh well...

anyway, I just figured out how to wire my DLS 8.3's to my T-4.100 4 channel amp. i am basically going to bridge channels 1+2 and 3+4 in order to get 300 watts x 2 @ a 4ohm load. a very conservatively rated 300 watts per side is insane!!! :evil2 i haven't confirmed if all the wiring schematics are correct yet, but here's what i've come up with so far....
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_105_full.jpg

Quick Update

my rear seats and door panels are all still at the upholstery shop and won't be done until mid next week. i can't really install the amps yet, cuz i need to install the rear seats to see how far back i can install the amps against them.

but for now, here's some pics of the amp rack. i am using 2 pieces of plexiglass here--3/4" plexi on the bottom and 1/4" for the top amp. the top amp is held up by 6 skinny columns of plexi attached only by using some type of special plexi bond adhesive.

the plan is to have battery --> 1/0g --> distribution block --> 4g --> amp(s) for both positive and negative.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_106_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_107_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_108_full.jpg
in this pic, notice how the top amp's power/ground/remote wires will tuck underneath itself... pretty slick...
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_109_full.jpg

that, sir, kicks the llama's ass!

btw, which sparco fabric and color are you using?

a word of warning regarding the red jacquard...this is less than 1 year after i had my civic's interior done with that material. luckily sparco replaced the seats under warranty, but the replacements (which i got in grey sides w/ black centers) also faded in less than a year. :(

lesson - don't park in the sun if you have these seats. :confused

one last pic before i stop whoring your thread. this is with the replacement seats:

damn, that fading sucks. i have the gray ones with hints of black, so i'm pretty sure it won't fade as bad as the red or black ones. on another note, when the car is complete, i'm going to have it tinted with ForumlaOne "clear" tint. it's suppose to look clear, but block out 99% of UV rays. that way i get the clear look, but with the benefits of tint...

thanks for the heads up Benny...
http://images.cardomain.net/products/spa/SPA00946GR_1.jpg

awesome! i had no idea such a "tint" was available. that probably would've saved my seats lives.

the torinos are GREAT seats - you will love them.

only downfall (other than my fading problems) was the weight of them. before i sold the car i ended up buying a sparco ultra seat to race with. kinda sucked swapping seats every other weekend for races, but at 14 lbs i could really tell a difference. ...i had the car down to 2023 lbs without a driver with that seat, so 40 lbs did matter. :D

Like christmas isnt it

Just wanted to give an update...

I got my interior back and although the rear seats look just as good as stock the door panels look like SH*T. I didn't realize the Sparco fabric I gave them had a foam backing, so when they did the door inserts, it came out "plush" making my beloved M3 look like a "PIMP MY RIDE" type of car.

Being so :mad :mad :mad , I managed to F*CK things up even worse and totally hacked up my passenger door panel and need to buy a new/used one. I already wasted $400 on re-uphostering just the door inserts, and learned last night that I could've easily done them myself.

So now, I have no idea what material to re-do my door inserts to match the theme of my car AND i don't know how i'm going to install my ugly/basketball-looking 3" midranges and tweets on my door. I'm so pissed, cuz now i'm down $400 PLUS a busted passenger's side door panel. If anyone else has suggestions to anything, i'm open to ideas.

in the meanwhile, i got Pete from Team Toxic Bass design me a box specifically for my 12" Oz Audio ME for a small donation fee. then, i'm going to have Mr Marv from elitecaraudio build it for me since he's local. Marv said it should be done by next Friday. here's the design...
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_111_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_112_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_113_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_114_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_115_full.jpg

my door inserts look so bad, even my gf was clowning them! she suggested that i do the door inserts the same material as my black patches on my Torinos which is a perforated black vinyl. i called Sparco-USA and bought the exact same material from them yesterday. so, gray Sparco Torinos up front, matching gray fabric rear seats, and perforated black vinyl on the door inserts on a dark gray door panel??? any comments on that combo?

http://images.cardomain.net/products/spa/SPA00946GR_1.jpg
Imagine the Torino's instead of the Vaders, and instead of dove gray door inserts, it would be the black perforated vinyl like on the side bolsters...
http://hinzm3.com/interior.jpg
BTW, this is Hinzm3's car... hope you don't mind...

sorry to hear about the setbacks...

I have some stripped stock panels as well as bubbled ones. No centers though, I am making carbon fiber overlay ones with them. Maybe that could suit the design?



looking great though, build the box out of plexi?

i think the rubber stuff will look interesting.

i was wondering how you were progressing. sorry to hear.

persevere!

i knew you guys would come up with something...

JP,
the carbon fiber idea seems pretty cool, but costly at the same time. would it look cheesy if i just had them fiberglassed and painted Arctic Silver to match the car? or is that going to be riced out?

another thing i forgot to mention was that i thought my DLS Iridiums 3" mids would not fit behind the stock grill using the baffle trick (cuz someone said they tried it and didn't fit), so i ended up enlargening the stock 2.5" hole. to make a long story short, the basketball-looking mid is just NOT gonna happen. the tweet isn't so bad, but the mid is just.... GAWDY! so now, the passenger's side door panel has a HUGE hole in it where the stock grill goes completely through it.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_94_full.jpg

do i need a completely new door panel or can someone fix it? or perhaps, should i just have the shop mount the mid and tweet with fiberglass ring/design somehow?

something like this, but on a more stealthy scale? but if i fiberglass and paint, or CF the door inserts, would it match with it too? MAN, I'M SO FRUSTRATED AND CONFUSED....
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_116_full.jpg

you never detailed the damage you did to the panel... we can help if we know how bad you ruined it...

as far as the centers, if you paint them don't glass them, just sand, prime, paint. they are already pretty rigid. glassing is just more work. If you paint them, paint the center console too. it will give it a more modern sports car look, ala z8 ben's honda had an almost 100% body colored interior, maybe he'll share some more pics.

I'm hoping to get door centers made and sold for <$100 shipped. We'll see. I'm just too lazy to work on them in this heat.

as far as the speakers and fiberglass doors, I have a half set of custom coupe doors to accomodate an 8" driver in the base of the door and any size speakers on top. PM me and we'll talk.

you never detailed the damage you did to the panel... we can help if we know how bad you ruined it...

as far as the centers, if you paint them don't glass them, just sand, prime, paint. they are already pretty rigid. glassing is just more work. If you paint them, paint the center console too. it will give it a more modern sports car look, ala z8 ben's honda had an almost 100% body colored interior, maybe he'll share some more pics.

I'm hoping to get door centers made and sold for <$100 shipped. We'll see. I'm just too lazy to work on them in this heat.

as far as the speakers and fiberglass doors, I have a half set of custom coupe doors to accomodate an 8" driver in the base of the door and any size speakers on top. PM me and we'll talk.

my current disposition makes me very interested.... i PM'd you with my cell number. call me anytime..

Darren

while we all like to get as much power as possible from our speakers - I wouldn't recommend you run 300W through those passives!

Also, in your wiring schematic, you have them hooked up wrong.

Give yourself the flexibility of going somewhat active - run two channels to the 8"s and another two to the dome + tweeter

A smart man would put all three drivers in the kickpanels - I'm certain this can be done with some creatvity....

my rewired doors are for an E46, don't know if it would apply for an E36, personally, I like to run all new iwres despite the extra work -

while we all like to get as much power as possible from our speakers - I wouldn't recommend you run 300W through those passives!

Also, in your wiring schematic, you have them hooked up wrong.

Give yourself the flexibility of going somewhat active - run two channels to the 8"s and another two to the dome + tweeter

A smart man would put all three drivers in the kickpanels - I'm certain this can be done with some creatvity....

my rewired doors are for an E46, don't know if it would apply for an E36, personally, I like to run all new iwres despite the extra work -

how is my wiring schematic hooked up wrong? btw, i temporarily had my amp bridged x 2 @ 4ohms, but for some reason, the amp would shut itself off after like 20 minutes or so of music.

then, i just wired 1 channel to each crossovers (4 total), and the amp stopped shutting down. i would run the 8's actively, but the 8's and tweets are joined together in the same xover, so i wasn't sure how to wire everything up. i posted a question at elitecaraudio, but no one, including yourself i think, did not have the wiring schematic to just run the 8's actively.

all 3 drivers in the kick panel might cosmetically look too obnoxious i think. unless you have a picture to change my mind, then i might reconsider. also, since i messed up one of my doors, i need the installer to cover it up with the midrange speaker somehow. at this point, i just want everything finished...

here's a picture of how i went overboard and oversized the stock mid cut out...
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_121_full.jpg
and this is the look i'm trying to avoid... the door inserts have that "plushed, pimp my ride" type of look... sucks.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_117_full.jpg
today i stripped out the driver's door insert and am trying to prep it up for the iinstaller...
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_122_full.jpg
very challenging to clean up...
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_123_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/5/web/449000-449999/449103_124_full.jpg

I replied :D

http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showthread.php?threadid=114731&pagenumber=2

There's a jumper on the passive that lets you do it - I suggest again that you write dls-america - or just write Scott Buwalda - www.buwaldahybrids.com

After looking at the schematics - you got them right - sorry about that.

It should be that hard to do - just put both the midbass and the dome flat in the kicks, mid range below midbass, then angle the tweeter where it needs to be - shoudl give you a very deep stage ;)

I would just try to patch up the doors and be done with it...but I hvae not seen your doors, so I can't comment there. What ever you do, you have nice equipment, I would just maximize the install

just got the photos of the door panel - eek - you are in a bit of a pickle there. You are really committed to do something iwth that location - wether it be to creatively remount the factory mid or use the dls mid there.

For the best sound, I wouldn't recommend the dls mid in that location, maybe you could mount the factory mid on a ring then mount that to the door panel - with the ring matching the insert that you are going to refinish!?!

I dunno what to say...

just got the photos of the door panel - eek - you are in a bit of a pickle there. You are really committed to do something iwth that location - wether it be to creatively remount the factory mid or use the dls mid there.

For the best sound, I wouldn't recommend the dls mid in that location, maybe you could mount the factory mid on a ring then mount that to the door panel - with the ring matching the insert that you are going to refinish!?!

I dunno what to say...

rcurley55, i've seen your install, and i'm impressed. this will be my 3rd time re-doing my system (going from Focal Utopias, US Amps, Hifonics, Avionixx, eD, etc.), but the first time i'm going to pay someone else to do the install. it just too tough for me to run new wire or cut wood from the community garage of my condo.

anyways, i've actually read your sounddomanin page a couple of times for motivation, but i'm just going to let the professionals take it from here.

the passenger door does put me in a bind. rather than buying a new door, i'm going to have Kirk (aka Crash, my installer) figure out what's best. though i understand what your saying about optimum sound, at this point, i just don't want to look at my ride and cringe everytime i drive it, but at the same time, trying to be budget minded.

at this point, i'm leaning on color matching all 4 door inserts and center console suggested by JP. that way, Kirk can custom make a ring for both mid and tweet, and probably just color match that too...

i don't really care what anyone else says about my car, but if i think my own car is "RICED OUT," I WILL NOT BE HAPPY... and by the sounds of things, i might be on my way...

would carbon fiber on the door inserts be a better option like JP is doing?

Here's a copy of my email from Scot Buwalda...

Hi:

With a four channel amp, your options are as follows:

Option #1: Bridge the amplifier and put all of the power into two channels and have the passives do all the work.

Option #2: Leave the amp in 4-channel mode and use two of the four channels for the tweeter and midbass, and the other two for the midrange.

Option #3: Buy another 2-channel amplifier, and ditch the passives all together, and run them all active. You'll need an active crossover then.

There is no way to separate the midbass from the tweeter, as it shares the common passive crossover board. :(

Scott


He also said that bridging the amp was okay to do too in another email.....

Here's a copy of my email from Scot Buwalda...

Hi:

With a four channel amp, your options are as follows:

Option #1: Bridge the amplifier and put all of the power into two channels and have the passives do all the work.

Option #2: Leave the amp in 4-channel mode and use two of the four channels for the tweeter and midbass, and the other two for the midrange.

Option #3: Buy another 2-channel amplifier, and ditch the passives all together, and run them all active. You'll need an active crossover then.

There is no way to separate the midbass from the tweeter, as it shares the common passive crossover board. :(

Scott


He also said that bridging the amp was okay to do too in another email.....

I hate to say this, but unless there is a problem with my instructions, it appears that scott is wrong.

from my instructions:
Using active crossover to the midbass driver. If you want to run the midbass driver with active crossover, not using the passive filter box, you must disconnect the midbass driver filter circuitry. This is done by moving the woofer jumper to OFF-position

So, you can run the woofer active and the midrange and tweeter passive....I don't know if you have flexible enough x-overs to do that, but it is a possible configuration according to dls.

I hate to say this, but unless there is a problem with my instructions, it appears that scott is wrong.

from my instructions:
Using active crossover to the midbass driver. If you want to run the midbass driver with active crossover, not using the passive filter box, you must disconnect the midbass driver filter circuitry. This is done by moving the woofer jumper to OFF-position

So, you can run the woofer active and the midrange and tweeter passive....I don't know if you have flexible enough x-overs to do that, but it is a possible configuration according to dls.

i double-checked my DLS instructions and you are 100% right! i can't believe i missed that footnote that was circled in the middle of the page! thanks a lot Rcurley...

anyways, i am going to run the 8's active. probably going to set everything up something like this...

On the Headunit
Front HP @ 200Hz (max is 200)
Rear HP @ 50Hz (lowest is 50)
Sub LP @ 50Hz

On Component Amp
Front HP @ 500 (max)
Rear LP @ 500 (max)

*Sub amp set to Full Range (xover'd at HU)

In conjunction between the HU and Amp's xover...
the mids and tweets are HP from 500 - High
the midbass bandpassed from 50 - 500
and the sub LP @ 50

Does that look like a good starting point?

it's not a bad start - especially if you put the mids and midbass in the kicks - if you are stuck with door locations - then I don't know how those will work. Just don't play the dome below 350hz w/o a STEEP crossover and I wouldn't go much lower then 320....

Also, you will have to play with the midbass hp point to see how it does, it may not like playing that low, depending on the installation - it's going to need true IB to get that low I think....if you put them in small sealed kicks, then low end will suffer.

Sounds like you are on the right track.

I'd email that info back to Scott or to DLS directly just to confirm. That bubble (iirc) is missing on the pdf instructions on line.

it's not a bad start - especially if you put the mids and midbass in the kicks - if you are stuck with door locations - then I don't know how those will work. Just don't play the dome below 350hz w/o a STEEP crossover and I wouldn't go much lower then 320....

Also, you will have to play with the midbass hp point to see how it does, it may not like playing that low, depending on the installation - it's going to need true IB to get that low I think....if you put them in small sealed kicks, then low end will suffer.

Sounds like you are on the right track.

I'd email that info back to Scott or to DLS directly just to confirm. That bubble (iirc) is missing on the pdf instructions on line.

unfortunately, i am stuck with the door locations since i FUBAR'd my passenger door. it was my impression that as long as the midrange and tweet were close together, i'd be okay. but again, i'm willing to sacrifice because one of my objectives was NOT to have a really obnoxious looking kickpanel.

you're right about the midbass... that's just something i'm just going to have to fiddle around with. DLS's specs say that can run at 55Hz, but my HU's HP begins at 50 and the next interval is at 63. if 50Hz is too low, i really hope it can handle 63Hz.

since the maximum HP/LP is 500Hz on the amp, it will be really convenient for me to to bandpass the 8" midbass from "X" Hz - 500, and HP the mids/tweets @ 500Hz as well... btw, tuning is not speciality... so all of this will be a challenge. however, i just found out my neighbor just got an oscilloscope from work... anyone know how to use it for tuning?