I'm looking at putting together a race engine, however the engine and car must be road legal in order to compete, thats not a problem for most things apart from fuel.

It'll be running 96 octane fuel.

The classes of engine go from 2000cc-3000cc, and then 3000cc-5000cc.

Because of that I'm thikning a 2.8 or depending if the 3L goes into the upper category or not, a 3L (I'm guessing its probably really 2000-2999). That being said, a 3.2 isnt really going to be that good when its competing against 4.5 above V8 assuming the level of tuning is all the same.

What do you think the most one could screw out of a 2.8 would be? Or even 2.5. Only rule is no FI, everything else can be modded ;)

I'm looking at putting together a race engine, however the engine and car must be road legal in order to compete, thats not a problem for most things apart from fuel.

It'll be running 96 octane fuel.

The classes of engine go from 2000cc-3000cc, and then 3000cc-5000cc.

Because of that I'm thikning a 2.8 or depending if the 3L goes into the upper category or not, a 3L (I'm guessing its probably really 2000-2999). That being said, a 3.2 isnt really going to be that good when its competing against 4.5 above V8 assuming the level of tuning is all the same.

What do you think the most one could screw out of a 2.8 would be? Or even 2.5. Only rule is no FI, everything else can be modded ;)

Road legal doesn't really mean much, does it. :stickoutt How long does it need to last? 450hp out of ~3L as an endurance engine is easily reliable by race motor standards. high revs tends to wear things out quickly. We didn't spin that little V6 much past 10k. I think longevity will be what decides your power output.

Because of that I'm thikning a 2.8 or depending if the 3L goes into the upper category or not, a 3L (I'm guessing its probably really 2000-2999).

Whatever motor you use, be it 2.5, 2.8. or 3.0, you can use the appropriate piston and crank to get the motor as close to the 3.0 limit as possible. Why would you just leave the motor as a 2.8?

Your best starting point would be an S52B30 Euro motor...it's just under the 3.0 liter limit and has lots of potential. I don't know why you need to use 96 octane...there's plenty of 100 and 104 unleaded on the market. With the proper mods and tuning, you should be able to get 400 horespower, but at a very high cost. What are you looking to spend?

Its for NZ clubsport level racing (similar to your SCCA stuff I think) apart from the fact the car has to compete on more than just track work.

Clubsport is made up of the following events:

ClubSport
- Autocross
- Hillclimb
- Motorkhanas
- Motorsport Triathalon - combination of three events.
- Rallysprint
- Sprints - Straight, Bent and Circuit - Standing and Flying Start
- Car Trials - Navigational (including fun and gimmick), Regularity and Sporting

Held on anything from prepared race tracks, to closed off public roads, so it has to be a bit of a jack of all trades.

I'm looking to start off with a basic setup and build on it rather than go at it all in one hit, so once brakes, suspension and safety features are out of the way the engine can come next.

I'd like to have a fair bit of life in it, over winter it'll go out maybe twice to 3 times a month for races, during months when its more favourable, up to 5 times. So while I'd like it to do OK, I'm not looking for a totally insane on edge engine.

Given the event levels I'm thinking handling is going to be one of the more key elements (hence starting with a bimmer ;)

I take it that the S52B30 still came with a 6 speed tranny?

As for the 96 octane thing, the higher octanes are really hard to get. 98 is ok-ish, but not fantastic.

So for brakes I was thinking the E46 330i swap with some ducting and quite aggressive track pads, full cage (I'll copy BMW's one as much as possible from their 320i).

Whats the best coilover set?

Edit - In short I'm after the best starting point, not over the top, something for fun to start with but room for expansion later on. Dont wanna cut myself off too short :)

...there's plenty of 100 and 104 unleaded on the market.

Not everywhere. :confused -Scott

Not everywhere. :confused -Scott

Considering where you live, I don't feel too sorry for you. :stickoutt

OUt here in Sun Diego, since we have lots of Off Roaders, there are quite a few stations that have 100 on pumps. And with 91 being the highest normal Octane at $2.50+ and 100 octane race gas at @ $5.00, it's really not so bad!

As far as what engine mods?? I really have no idea, I have a 2.5L non-vanos, that I'd like to try and pump up, but my rules don't allow much with this engine, I'm most likely going to go to a 2.8L, which I've heard are making 200HP at the wheels, within the Street Prepared Rules.

I take it that the S52B30 still came with a 6 speed tranny?

Yeah, but it will bolt up to a 5-speed as well. Depending on your need for top speed, optimum gearing for these motors seems to be a 4.27 or 4.45 with a 6-speed and a 7600-7800 RPM redline. Limiting the redline will gain you some reliability. Pushing to 8000+ will make your motor shorter lived.

So for brakes I was thinking the E46 330i swap with some ducting and quite aggressive track pads, full cage (I'll copy BMW's one as much as possible from their 320i).

If this is a competition car, why not go with a real set of competition brakes. You'll gain more feel, more reliability, and easier pad changes to name a few.

Whats the best coilover set?

What are you looking for and what are you looking to spend? What do the rules say? If the rules are unlimited, you are going to be behind the curve if you just expect to bolt-on a set of coilovers, a few bushings and go at it.

There are coilovers kits that are made for street guys who want to drop their car and there are kits you can piece together with Motorsport Motons, JRZ, Ohlins, etc...and everything in between. Need some more information before I can really recommend one solution over the other.

def go with a non oem brake set up, pad changes and feel will be much better. In NZ you can prob also source a motorsport koni set up that might be a great coil over package as well. You will prob need a selection of springs since your going from tracks to bumpy parking lots or roads.

What are you looking for and what are you looking to spend? What do the rules say? If the rules are unlimited, you are going to be behind the curve if you just expect to bolt-on a set of coilovers, a few bushings and go at it.

There are coilovers kits that are made for street guys who want to drop their car and there are kits you can piece together with Motorsport Motons, JRZ, Ohlins, etc...and everything in between. Need some more information before I can really recommend one solution over the other.

I've just found that they are holding a Sprint race locally early next month, I'll go along with a camera and take some pictures of whats competing.

From what I gather that the series is aimed at is more people using modifed daily drivers rather than dedicated track hacks Maybe I was wrong in comparing it to SCCA, and should have compared it to the Miata stuff? (but then again I'm unfamiliar with US racing) ;)

I just gave them a phone call to ask what the deal is. Brackets are 2001cc-3000cc then 3001cc-and higher. They also group cars due to times rather than mods in some cases.

Just phoned them, the club racing is full on race cars (GT3's & E36 w/S14's) so thats a bit far up the tree for me.

The clubsport stuff is slightly modified road cars generally, most of them in that bracket are running RX7s.

So I guess that means I'm after a happy medium between a full on race car and a totally stock car.

Given my road car is a E36 325, do you think a E36 fully caged, coilovers, some more aggressive brakes, cams, intake, exhaust, pulleys, no AC and a gutted interior would be a good start?

When I upgrade to the new S52B30, alot of those parts I could use in my daily driver ;)

And yea, jap parts can be quite a bit cheaper :)