Since Eric started a log thread, I figure I'll do the same thing. :stickoutt

(*edit - adding a price itemization of purchases)

$28 - RCAs
$24 - Battery Terminals
$15 - Sheet of 1/2" MDF for amp rack
$10 - Sheet of 3/4" MDF for sub box (used a $10 off store coupon :D)
$4 - 1 x 3 lumber
$15 - Building Supplies (screws, wood glue, sand paper, etc)
$5 - Speaker Terminal for Sub Box
$5 - Banana Plug
$20 - Carpet
$45 - Labor (to have sub box professionally carpeted)
$157 - 1st eDead order
$46 - 2nd eDead order
$350 - DLS UP35 3-way component speakers
$318 - PPI PCX-4125 Amplifier
$16 - Alluminum Dowels for Amp Rack
$43 - Power Cable and Speaker Wire
$25 - Misc (solder, heat shrink, remote wire, zip ties, etc)
$8 - Foam (2" and 3" thick pieces - to fix rattles)
$232 - Image Dynamcis IDQD2V2 12" sub. (I paid out the wazzu for next day shipping)

$1367 - Total to date

Here we go...

We'll start with the boxes I found on the porch just a bit ago. Also in this pic is the sub box that a friend and I built, which I just picked up from having carpeted (I didn't trust myself with the slanted rear. :D )

RCA cables

eDead v3

eDead v1se (two 30 sq ft rolls and a roller)

Battery terminals. Each one has 1/0, 4, and two 8 gauge openings.

Closer pic of the finished box

Banana plug connector

Ima start a fricken log too, shooooooot. ;)

Just bought me some killer components. Going full OZ Audio baby, yeeeeah.

both you guys are just a couple of show offs!!! :stickoutt

both you guys are just a couple of show offs!!! :stickoutt
:devillook

how long did it take ed to process your order?

I could just make you all drool if I took shots of our stock room/ shelves. I have alot to pick from..... :D

Zapco, Directed Electronics, Kicker, MTX, JBL, DD, RE, Kenwood/ Excellon, Pioneer/ Premier, Sony, Clarion, Infinity, Farenheight, NESA, Exonic and the list goes on..... :redspot

^Dude take some shots. I wanna see...

how long did it take ed to process your order?

i ordered the edead on wednesday morning.

it was on my porch by 1pm today.

granted, i only live about 3 hours from where they are located...

and the battery terminals also? Did you get a good deal on that stuff.

and the battery terminals also? Did you get a good deal on that stuff.

I paid $24 shipped for the pair of terminals and $28 shipped for the 4-channel 17ft RCA cables.

I guess I should start a tally of what I've spent so far so I can add it all up. I have a budget that I'm trying to stay within, so I'd like to see it on paper anyway. ...at least before the wife sees the receipts. lol! :evil2

I'll edit the original post in this thread with the purchase amounts and running total.

I ordered another 30 sq ft roll of eDead v1se. I deadened my trunk with 1 layer this afternoon and ended up using a little over 1/2 of the original 60 sq ft. I will definately need more.

Pics of passenger's side matting so far. I intend to go over everything I mat with the v1se with the v3 liquid once I'm finished.

2

Here's the trunk so far...

Here's how it all looks together so far. After I complete the deadening, I'll carpet over all of the deadening that is visible now.

Pass side door...

Kick grill

I got the same thing to look forward too but I'm not doing the liquid sound deadener.

Picked up some more misc items today. I decided to pay for the "convenience" of picking these up at a local shop. Total today was $43 for this stuff...

1 x 3 ft' - 1/0 gauge for battery to ground upgrade (red is all they had)
2 x 4' - 4 gauge (power/ground to amp)
1 x 24' - 16 gauge speaker wire
1 - 1/0 gauge connection ring for battery to ground cable

Unfortunately, today I also learned that the arrival of my component set has been delayed until Thursday. :(

Oh well - more time to sound deaden. ;)

Insides of tail light covers.

^hmmm, good idea. I'll be doing my tailight covers too.

Unfortunately, today I also learned that the arrival of my component set has been delayed until Thursday. :(

Oh well - more time to sound deaden. ;)
Chriiist. How much deadening do you have left? What you have right there looks like A LOT of deadening.

eh, that's really not all that much. it's mostly just one layer everywhere i've done...some areas have double coverage, but not much yet.

i pulled out the rear seats and rear parcel shelf yesterday. looks like there's some thick rubber sound proofing there from the factory already, but i want to hit up some areas anyway. i also still want to do the rear doors.

i still have about 10 sq ft left here to work with tonight...probably won't get a whole lot done. tomorrow another 30 ft roll should show up.

...then the liquid edead v3. :D

Look'n good Z! I def need alot of deadening for my car :eek:

i like

:redspot



What sub are you going to run?

i'm going to start with an idq-12. at a 4 ohm load, the amp is (conservatively) rated at 500w rms from 2 bridged channels.

the box is .9 ft3, which is a total of .85 ft3 with the sub volume taken out. this is what id recommended to help the higher 60 hz frequencies get into the cabin. i'll probably boost a lower frequency with the amp's boost to compensate for the small box. i can select the frequency i want to boost and i can boost it by up to 18db(!). ...prolly end up boosting it in the 45 hz range by just a few dbs...we'll see.

i'm going to start with an idq-12. at a 4 ohm load, the amp is (conservatively) rated at 500w rms from 2 bridged channels.

the box is .9 ft3, which is a total of .85 ft3 with the sub volume taken out. this is what id recommended to help the higher 60 hz frequencies get into the cabin. i'll probably boost a lower frequency with the amp's boost to compensate for the small box. i can select the frequency i want to boost and i can boost it by up to 18db(!). ...prolly end up boosting it in the 45 hz range by just a few dbs...we'll see.
i dont think boost will be necessary, especially at 45 hz. You should graph it out (if you havent already) but I owuld guess that it will rolloff around 35hz and 80/90 hz, not 45.

you're probably right. i don't have anything to graph it with, though. we'll just have to see how it goes.

didn't really get to do anything with the car last night.

tonight i finished up the deadening in the trunk, rear wheel wells, front doors, and kick panels. used almost the entire gallon of edead v3.

tomorrow i plan to run the 4-channel rca cable and remote turn on wire. i may also extend the wiring for the front components in the trunk a few feet to where i plan to install the crossovers. that way, all i'll have to do thursday when the speakers show up is plug them in.

i'll post pics of the finished deadening tomorrow.

Benny Z,

Where'd did you get your DLS components? That seems like a good price for a 3 way set... was that hooked up or something?

I'm looking at getting the DLS Iridiums 8.3. Somewhere here made the Dynaudio 360's fit, so I think I might give the DLS' a try...

Please let me know where you bought your component set from.... thanks.

715-574-3344

ask for adam

he didn't have my set in stock, but i believe he has some iridiums in stock. he was able to have his supplier drop ship directly to me.

hope this helps!

- ben

here we go...pics of finished deadening

trunk...

pass side kick...

driver's side kick...

rear wheel wells...

piller above parcel shelf...i didn't do much here - just enough to keep them from resonating...

and finally, a shot of the driver's door and door card...

woohoo!!!! :D :D :D

box

5.25" neodynium magnet woofer

oh-so-sweet 2.5" soft textile midrange

soft textile dome tweeter

tonight is going to be delicious. yum. :) :buttrock

just got done installing these a bit ago.

the install was cake. whoever says that there is no direct replacement for the oem 3-way system in the e36 has obviously never installed these. they were a direct swap. no dremmeling necessary to make them fit. they fit very snug, almost as if they were made for this specific application.

the sound is great. i haven't really cranked them yet. the instructions say that there is a 15-20 hour break-in period before the speakers will perform as intended. however, i did turn the volume knob up for a minute. i am very surprised at the amout of midbass the 5.25" drivers are producing! i would say (based solely on the very brief audition) that these drivers are most definately putting out more midbass than the 6.5" infinity kappas we have in the wife's car. i don't think i'll be sorry i didn't decide to custom fit the 6.5" set.

i'm tired. i hurt. i'm going to bed.

pics tomorrow.

Wow, those speakers look hawt!!!

How much were they again?

Congrats! I got mine in today too. :) Looks like we're head and head with only the sub to go. hehe. Though, I've got more problems than you do. My crossover is acting up and since I was impatient and did a messy temporary install it is almost impossible to pinpoint my problem. I should have known better then to do a half*ss wiring job like this. TAKE NOTE: NEVER EVER do a messy wiring job. You will severely pay for it in the long run!

I paid $350 shipped with a full warranty. They were drop shipped to me directly from DLS America.

The midrange looks really cool with the grill off. I'll have to pop it off for a pic tomorrow.

The color of the tweeter and midrange surrounds is like a gun metal color. They are very slick looking indeed. I'm sure they'd look even better in a black interior car.

do you know how much the 2 way version is by chance?

TAKE NOTE: NEVER EVER do a messy wiring job. You will severely pay for it in the long run!

Werd. I was very meticulous with the wiring. I actually started this job at about 3:30. Didn't finsish till midnight. ...not because the speakers were hard to install, but because of all the wiring and other crap I had put off doing.

Post pics of your stuff, mang! :D

do you know how much the 2 way version is by chance?

cheaper than $350?

:D

Werd. I was very meticulous with the wiring. I actually started this job at about 3:30. Didn't finsish till midnight. ...not because the speakers were hard to install, but because of all the wiring and other crap I had put off doing.

Post pics of your stuff, mang! :D
its way too embarassing at the moment. lol.

now that you mention it though I do have some pics on my camera I need to post. I'll get them up soon.

:redspot


(please dont laugh :( )

what the heck...i'm not going to bed anyway. :D

woofer

driver's side

midrange cover off

I bet that sounds nice!

here we go...pics of finished deadening

trunk...

Damn! Your car's gotta weigh more than a 5-series by now!



Matthew
00 528 Sport

Damn! Your car's gotta weigh more than a 5-series by now!



Matthew
00 528 Sport

Shipping weight of the eDead packages were 23 lbs (60 sq ft material) and 10 lbs (1 gallon liquid).

...it's a lot less than I thought it was going to be.

I still haven't used the remaining 30 sq ft roll, but it will be another 11ish lbs if I do end up using it.

woohoo! sub time! :D :D :D

midrange cover off
i just some DLS speakers too Benny... how'd you mount them? did you have to enlarge the stock holes at all or did they just fit? also, did you just mount the speaker in the hole and just screw the back plate on the other side, then slap the speaker grill cover on?

do the speaker grills take getting used to? they look like freakin' basketballs!!! :confused :(

Nice work Benny, looks pretty hardcore. I thought the deadening would weigh much more than that - good to see it'll still pull ok!

eazy - my dls midrange drivers are 2.5". you can check the www.dls.se website for the exact mounting diameter. mine were a perfect fit for the oem hole. i used a razor blade to shim just a tiny bit of material to help ease it in, but i probably could have forced them in without trimming if i really wanted to. i believe your iridiums will have a larger midrange. you can probably just enlarge the hole to mount them. mine mounted from the front with 4 screws, which are covered by the grills. it really looks nice in person.

tweeters look great, imo. they are a gunmetal color and have a high-end look to them. they certainly aren't the traditional style grill, but they tend to grow on you quickly.

eazy - my dls midrange drivers are 2.5". you can check the www.dls.se website for the exact mounting diameter. mine were a perfect fit for the oem hole. i used a razor blade to shim just a tiny bit of material to help ease it in, but i probably could have forced them in without trimming if i really wanted to. i believe your iridiums will have a larger midrange. you can probably just enlarge the hole to mount them. mine mounted from the front with 4 screws, which are covered by the grills. it really looks nice in person.

tweeters look great, imo. they are a gunmetal color and have a high-end look to them. they certainly aren't the traditional style grill, but they tend to grow on you quickly.

any way to mount these speakers using a factory grill?

anything is possible with creativity, time, and money.

Everything looks great except I don't like the after market grill job... they look like basketballs. :)

Im sure this was asked.. but I couldnt find it..

Can I keep my stock headunit and amp with these

Im sure this was asked.. but I couldnt find it..

Can I keep my stock headunit and amp with these

you can keep your stock head unit, but you will need to upgrade to an aftermarket amplifier.

Im a newbie on audio stuff.. so sorry if I ask dumb questions.. but why do I have to change my amp

you can keep your stock head unit, but you will need to upgrade to an aftermarket amplifier.

mutliple reasons

- the oem amplifier has a built-in crossover network built into it that will not work with any other speakers than the oem ones

- the oem amplifier is built to supply power to the oem speakers, which have a different imedence than aftermarket speakers

- these speakers need much more power than the oem amplifier can provide

those seem like nice speakers. I have the focal polyglass 3 way set in my car, and i was able to keep the stock mount, by making a plate that the speaker attaches to behind the stock grill. However i am not happy with the sound quality. I have an eclipse 5ch amp which i think may not push them enough. how much power are you running to this set?

Since Eric started a log thread, I figure I'll do the same thing. :stickoutt

(*edit - adding a price itemization of purchases)

$28 - RCAs
$24 - Battery Terminals
$15 - Sheet of 1/2" MDF for amp rack
$10 - Sheet of 3/4" MDF for sub box (used a $10 off store coupon :D)
$4 - 1 x 3 lumber
$15 - Building Supplies (screws, wood glue, sand paper, etc)
$5 - Speaker Terminal for Sub Box
$5 - Banana Plug
$20 - Carpet
$45 - Labor (to have sub box professionally carpeted)
$157 - 1st eDead order
$46 - 2nd eDead order
$350 - DLS UP35 3-way component speakers
$318 - PPI PCX-4125 Amplifier
$16 - Alluminum Dowels for Amp Rack
$43 - Power Cable and Speaker Wire
$25 - Misc (solder, heat shrink, remote wire, zip ties, etc)
$8 - Foam (2" and 3" thick pieces - to fix rattles)
$232 - Image Dynamcis IDQD2V2 12" sub. (I paid out the wazzu for next day shipping)

$1367 - Total to date

Here we go...

We'll start with the boxes I found on the porch just a bit ago. Also in this pic is the sub box that a friend and I built, which I just picked up from having carpeted (I didn't trust myself with the slanted rear. :D )

I didnt see it listed...

What are the dimensions of your sub-box? That looks exactly like what I want to do.
Thanks
Matt

i actually changed sub designs after implementing and using this one for a while. sorry, i don't have the original diminsions.

here is the new design - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=375953&highlight=e36+ski+pass

teasley - sorry i didn't see your question before. if you are still around, i am sending 125w to each component set.

i actually changed sub designs after implementing and using this one for a while. sorry, i don't have the original diminsions.

here is the new design - http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=375953&highlight=e36+ski+pass

teasley - sorry i didn't see your question before. if you are still around, i am sending 125w to each component set.
So Benny, where did you buy your DLS speakers? You said you paid $350 right?
Everywhere I see them online they are saying $500+ :(


You said you are running 100+ watts to the UP35's? I was planning on using about 65 WRMS (ED NINe.4), you think that is enough for the DLS's?

the phone number for the place i got mine from is in that thread. i posted it (i believe, too lazy to look to verify) towards the bottom of page 1.

i am sending them an honest 125w per side. i would not send them anything less than 100w. and, honestly, if i were doing it again i would buy the 6.5" version and bi-amp the set like trager is doing with his up35s.

but they still sound damn good. just a little weak on the midbass at times.

Honestly, Benny, I used to agree on the lacking midbass, until I went active and added my sub. Without the sub, the bass was okay, although occasionally lacking. With the sub (with a ~110 Hz LPF on channel E and a ~100 Hz HPF on my woofer channels), the sound is great.

I'm only feeding 50W per channel, by the way -- it's amazing how much more efficient the active xover setup it.

Honestly, Benny, I used to agree on the lacking midbass, until I went active and added my sub. Without the sub, the bass was okay, although occasionally lacking. With the sub (with a ~110 Hz LPF on channel E and a ~100 Hz HPF on my woofer channels), the sound is great.

I'm only feeding 50W per channel, by the way -- it's amazing how much more efficient the active xover setup it.

Are you running the same DLS speakers as benny?

Excuse my ignorance, active Vs. passive crossover?
I understand passive is the crossovers that come with component sets. But is active an active crossover when the signals are crossed over at the preamp level and then amplified?

Ok here's a question....what are you refering to when you say went active? I assume you are refering to using an active crossover vs. passive crossovers but in what way? Were you bypassing the built-in amp crossovers before and sending a full range signal to the component set crossovers?

i believe he is using a combo active/passive crossover, sending only midbass frequencies to the woofer, then actively sending everything else through the passive crossover to be split between the midrange driver and the tweeter passively. the crossover unit that comes with the 3-way up dls sets allows this configuration.

That's exactly it. To be more specific, I have my amp set up for a 4 way crossover. My subwoofer channel (150W RMS running an Image Dynamics ID8 in an infinite baffle install) crosses to the woofer channel at aroudn 110 Hz, my woofers are band-limited from 105 to about 500 Hz, and my mid/high channel gets 500Hz and up. Within the passive xover for the UP35s, I have the mid-range output set to high and the tweets at the lowest setting. All of the filters are on the input stage of the amplifier, and I have the woofer gain set about 20% higher than the mid-high gain.

Any time you use a passive xover, you're robbing power from the speakers, basically. My CA-51 can output 50WRMS per channel. Let's say I was playing only a 200 Hz sine wave through the stock UP35 xover and I have the volume maxed -- theoretically, you would think that the speaker in question would play 50W of that wave. In reality, because of hte passive over, that speaker will only get 20-30 W (depending on specifics of the xover -- as I recall from my long ago days in college, a typical RLC filter circuit tends to impart a 2-3dB drop across the bandpass part of the spectrum). So in effect (as exmaxima explained in another thread recently), my 50W per channel amp is providing the same kind of signal to the drivers that you would normally get from a 100W/channel amp, and I also don't have any coloration from the xover (although that should be minimal with good speakers).

Not only that, but in many BMWs (at least the ones with kick-panel midbasses) you really want to drive that midbass harder than you do the mid/tweet set.

The midbass is tighter when you get rid of the passives, but you also want to turn the gain setting a bit higher when they're down that far.

the phone number for the place i got mine from is in that thread. i posted it (i believe, too lazy to look to verify) towards the bottom of page 1.

i am sending them an honest 125w per side. i would not send them anything less than 100w. and, honestly, if i were doing it again i would buy the 6.5" version and bi-amp the set like trager is doing with his up35s.

but they still sound damn good. just a little weak on the midbass at times.

Benny, I found that phone number, but what is the name of the place? Is it an audio dealer, a store or what? Thx

i honestly don't remember the name of the "place".

for all i know, it was some kid (morgan bressler?) with a dls account. didn't really matter to me. he had them drop shipped to me directly from dls usa in miami.

el.duderino is gonna have a hayday with this one. :D

:eatpop:

i honestly don't remember the name of the "place".

for all i know, it was some kid (morgan bressler?) with a dls account. didn't really matter to me. he had them drop shipped to me directly from dls usa in miami.

el.duderino is gonna have a hayday with this one. :D

The place you bought your speakers is an Authorized DLS dealer in Wisconsin, I emailed them but havent heard back yet.

So far I am really discouraged though, I talked to two shops today and one wanted $500 for the UP35 and the other wanted $575! :(

I hope the place you bought yours has a better deal than that!

i honestly don't remember the name of the "place".

for all i know, it was some kid (morgan bressler?) with a dls account. didn't really matter to me. he had them drop shipped to me directly from dls usa in miami.

el.duderino is gonna have a hayday with this one. :D

:rofl I got a PM over this :rofl

So, did you ever find the DLS's for a reasonable price? If so, from where? I am actively searching and these look nice...

this thread is oooooooooold.....talk to elduderino.