I have an ESS sc on a 99 M3. The problem I am having is that the rubber tube which comes off the discharge port off the SC keeps slipping off and causing a boost leak and setting off the check engine light. When this happen my car does not run smoothly at mid-high rpms. I got ESS to send me a longer rubber tube, but this one keeps slippin too. :mad:
I have even bought a very heavy duty clamp so it will not slip. But it still slips.
ESS are surprised and say they have never had this problem before.
Any ideas? Could it be the by-pass is not working right and creating a surge of boost

HELP!!

Thanks
Jagsm3

Here are a couple of suggestions:

1. Use a marine type clamp.

2. Make sure you clean the discharge port ridge of the SC very well.

3. Use a minor (and I mean small) amount of high temp silicone around the ridge the clamp will clamp on to. Slip the tube over the silicone covered ridge and clamp it into place.

Worked for me and never had the discharge tube come off.

Good luck.

Where can I get a marine type clamp and where can I get high temp silicone?
Thanks

Silicone -----> Auto parts store (i.e., Pep Boys & others; this silicone is usually used for gaskets)

Clamp -------> Marine supply store

Thanks. Also what psi were you at when you had this problem?

RMS rated the system at 6psi, but when measured it was actually 8psi.

Are you guys talking about a silicone hose attaching to the discharge end of the blower, on its way to the throttle body? I ve never heard of this problem on any other SC kit for our cars...
Any idea what it is about the ESS kit which makes the hose not stay attached to the blower discharge pipe? Is there no friction for the hose to grab on to? Not enough surface area? Does the clamp keep sliding off the hose, which can sometimes happen if theres an unfortunate angle, or a taper to the pipe..

I have the ESS kit. I don`t have this problem.

Make sure the hose is all the way on.

The hose slip of the dicharge port off the sc. I think it might have to do w/ the by=pass valve. Also, what car do you have w/ the ess kit?

Im installing mine too as Jagsm3 knows :)

You might try taking a bit of sand paper to the egde of the blower where the tubing goes on. Just enough to give it a little bit of roughness.

I found that when I shoved the hose on the back of the blower and started cinching down the hose clamp, it liked to slide off the blower.

Also make sure that your hose clamp is pushed far onto the blower so that it isnt cinching down at an angle. I know it is hard to tell where the edge of the blower is but I think if you make sure it is straight it should cinch down good.

Im waiting for my new pulley tensioner :( hope that stops my belt from flapping around like crazy.

Originally posted by jagsm3
Also, what car do you have w/ the ess kit?


I have a 96 M3.

Have ESS send you a new by-pass valve and see if that works.

Originally posted by PDX///M


Im waiting for my new pulley tensioner :( hope that stops my belt from flapping around like crazy.

Are you using top tension or bottom tension?

You have to use top tension because the belt will hit the radiator hose if you tension from the bottom. ESS was under the impression that all Pre 96 E36 models had the radiator hose on the passenger side of the car and the filler on the driver's side. This is not the case. They will be shipping the different tensioner with all E36 installs now.

Originally posted by PDX///M
You have to use top tension because the belt will hit the radiator hose if you tension from the bottom. ESS was under the impression that all Pre 96 E36 models had the radiator hose on the passenger side of the car and the filler on the driver's side. This is not the case. They will be shipping the different tensioner with all E36 installs now.


I`m waiting for the new pulley myself. I was able to use bottom tension, but I had to cut the radiator hose a little.

Now I'm having the same damn problem. The discharge tube will not stay on. Has anyone else figured out how to keep this on? I'm trying to use a small amount of silicone around the lip and let it cure before I tighten it. Has anyone else figured out how to fix it?

Is your discharge tube still coming off?:)

NOPE, COZ I TOOK THE PICE OF SHIT ESS PIPING OFF AND WENT CUSTOM;)

Please clarify what you mean when you say you went custom? :)

Why are you having the same problems? I thought I was teh ONLY one having problems with the wonderful ESS kits:rolleyes:

I went custom by going w/ piping from a different company

You went with piping from a different company. Which piping, the rubber ones which connect to the mandrel tubing? Which company did you get your piping from? And yes, I'm having the same problem. Should have gone with DINAN for no problems!

Well so your having the same freakin problem as me and Mark huh. Those lyin SOB's at ESS. That freakin Micheal at ESS told me that they have never had this problem before. But guess what HERES 3 PEOPLE WHO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. Those idiots are stupid for thinking they will get much business when there kits perform this way.

I got an RMS discharge tube and it fits very tight. It was not easy to install, but I don't have the problems I was having with shat piece of shit ESS discharge tubing (madrel and rubber tubes)

Welll hope this helps

Jay

ps in the future steer people away from ESS

I just installed a used dinan powerdyne sc on my car and it has top tensioning. Is that bad? Should I get a longer belt and attempt to change to bottom tension? Whats the problem with top?

Also, how tight to you guys have your belt tensioned? I have mine tensioned a little more than the AC and main V-belt.

Interesting.

All of my hoses refuse to slip.

My radiator hose doesn't need to be cut.

The damn belt must be tensioned, too.

I'm going to call Dinan and yell at them. I seem to be missing out on all the fun.

(Sorry guys, I guess I have just read too many posts that imply I am an idiot for spending the extra money...)





:complain